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Discussion starter · #161 · (Edited)
nomorenow:

I haven't seen a DVD Player or roof-mount DVD install in your project yet. Are you gonna add this later?
Your modifications are interested to follow.
Thank you.

Mufutau
Mufutau,

My kids still young, they both already break/scratch-up alot of DVD's....kids will be kids...So,
I brought three HP 32GB TouchPad tablet during the last year Firesale for $140ea or $90 for 16gb.
And the tablet headrest holder for $4ea from Verizon wireless. Now I put away all the DVDs.
I do already have 7inch single bin on my other car, I seldom use it.....more likely no DVD player project as for now.

Image
 
Thanks nomorenow. That is quite understood. Yeas, kids will always kids.. but then we were all kids once, so we passed the tourch.

Mufutau

Mufutau,

My kids still young, they both already break/scratch-up alot of DVD's....kids will be kids...So,
I brought three HP 32GB TouchPad tablet during the last year Firesale for $140ea or $90 for 16gb.
Now I put away all the DVDs.
I do already have 7inch single bin on my other car, I seldom use it.....more likely no DVD player project as for now.
 
Discussion starter · #163 ·
nomorenow-

I need to do that to my keys. wow. So wait a minute. There is a "transponder" in the valet key? So basically, I buy the flip key thing from Ebay and put the transponder in that? Will the transmitter work? No sort of programming? I'm trying to figure out how this works. I'm an idiot.
I think valet key just for the metal part, and the key FOB transmitter from original and transfer.
I wish I can do this for Ex-L , there are like 6 buttons for sliding doors etc..

1st, the Valet key only the Transponder chip and doesn't require battery to work & no need to program. (the easy way)
2nd, the FOB remote also the Transponder chip & an flat battery. And required to desolder the chip
then relocate the chip near the end of the switchblade key then resolder & rewire back to circuit board (the hard way, see pics)

jv, sorry there no 6 buttons switchblade yet....

My orig FOB remote, the transponder chip is on upper corner......
Image


here is googled pics....and require some good hand skills.
Image


Image



And yes, my switchblade has two transponder chips, the one in the fob is too far to detect, so no interference between both.
Hope this answer your questions........
 
So okay the 1st choice (the easy way) is your first post titled "Switchblade key FOB (aka Flip-out key)" right? That transponder thing is inside the valet key right? Remove transponder from valet key then place on ebay flip-out key right?

I will sacrifice not having the slide door buttons because theres only two buttons on the flip key.
 
Discussion starter · #166 ·
So okay the 1st choice (the easy way) is your first post titled "Switchblade key FOB (aka Flip-out key)" right? That transponder thing is inside the valet key right? Remove transponder from valet key then place on ebay flip-out key right?

I will sacrifice not having the slide door buttons because theres only two buttons on the flip key.
blk, you're right! This won't work on all Odyssey's, just LX, I just checked the seller page where I ordered from.......
[h=3]
Works With:
[/h][h=3]NO interior (remote/electronics/transponder chips) unit inside
[/h]Lock/Unlock + Panic Buttons of
2005 - 2011 HONDA Odyssey LX
2006 - 2011 HONDA Ridgeline
2003 - 2011 HONDA Accord
2006 - 2011 HONDA Civic
2005 - 2011 HONDA CR-V
2005 - 2011 HONDA Pilot
2007 - 2011 HONDA Fit


Re: is your first post titled "Switchblade key FOB (aka Flip-out key)" right? (yes) That transponder thing is inside the valet key right? (yes) Remove transponder from valet key then place on ebay flip-out key right? (and yes)
 
Discussion starter · #167 ·
Nomorenow, Excellent projects. Ques: Are you happy with fit, quality and finish of the DDM kit? Wondering if their 2012 HID Kits are still considered best bang for your buck. Thanks.
Thanks mindoro~!

During the last two years, I brought three HID kit's (no name brand , Xentec, and clone-like DDM) all three only lasted 4-8months (all bad Ballast) with even relays installed. Then when got my Odyssey, I read other car forums for hid reviews, most said DDM was good & bang for bucks. That's how I found out about DDM and give it try......and is been over 4months now,,,,,so far,, so good. Overall is pretty good quality & finish & fits where I wanted.
 
Hi, you have done an amazing job!

I really like the effect of your interior illumination result. I have a TE model so it comes with OEM blue light for the front foot well. But it is hardly 10% of the good result of what you have put in. I wonder whether I can replace the week OEM blue light with your LED kit ( I do not need the dancing / color change, just like a brighter, wider blue effect ), I know I probably have to reposition the LED as it is much larger than the OEM.

Also I wonder whether it is possible to light up the foot well of the 2nd row & 3rd row with the same color, any idea of the wiring routes? Is it too much trouble.....Thanks...

Again you have done truly an amazing job!
 
Discussion starter · #169 ·
Hi, you have done an amazing job!

I really like the effect of your interior illumination result. I have a TE model so it comes with OEM blue light for the front foot well. But it is hardly 10% of the good result of what you have put in. I wonder whether I can replace the week OEM blue light with your LED kit ( I do not need the dancing / color change, just like a brighter, wider blue effect ), I know I probably have to reposition the LED as it is much larger than the OEM.

Also I wonder whether it is possible to light up the foot well of the 2nd row & 3rd row with the same color, any idea of the wiring routes? Is it too much trouble.....Thanks...

Again you have done truly an amazing job!
Thanks 168~!
Since you have the TE model here is the PDF file how it was done (fyi).
http://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/odyssey/2012/interiorillumination.pdf

Have you tried light drill thru plastic the lens of the led (like other members said)

Yes, I think you replace the my led kit, use can you 12v plug or hardwire to Ambient wire (since is fused).
I Velcro over the OEM led hole.

On the 2nd & 3rd......you can run a hardwire (tap to ACC wire) along driver side to 2nd door sills and run the wire under the carpets and Velcro under the seats.
Is doable task (about 1 to 2 hrs depend on skills).
 
Discussion starter · #171 ·
Would you have any plan for sound deadening project?
Is nice to have to block out the noise, I think it require alot of work & cost.
so no plans for the future..... I might just do the hood insulation cuz summer is coming up....

And does any1 know if EX-L and up comes hood insulation, I can't seem to locate the part number??
 
Discussion starter · #173 ·
can u explain real quick where you got power from/ i have the cooling box. did you cut the end off the cigarette lighter adaptor and splice to a power source?
you're 100% correct, I did cut the last three inches of the 12V cigarette adaptor, should be long enough from the 12V jack (tap from inside) to the glove box. I added the switch outside (the Cooler switch) sometimes mother-in-law sits in the front.
 
I'll try give best details as I can,

1 - I tap-on to the ACC (orange thick wire) so is auto-off when key is removed, is under driver left foot rest.
2 - The ACC wire goes to this
Image
Universal Auto On-Off Fog Light Switch with Bezel Frame | eBay 12v fog light switch.
3- The 12v OUTPUT wire goes thru the round rubber (use a sharp probe to poke ON the "edge" thru) is above brake padle (look up)
4 - 12V OURPUT Connects to the DRL Led's
5- Ground the 12V switch & your DRL Led, I just the exitising bolt.

I think you're done~!
Hey, great job and ideas. sorry my first question wasn't clear. My first time using this site. I just traded in my traverse for a 2012 ex-l w/o nav. ( too many kids now.) i get the mini van while she gets the nice sporty Rav4. a couple questions.
1. when you say tap, you mean splice and tie together right? so you get power from that orange wire, run it to switch and then switch to the lights. then just ground the lights and switch wherever you find a spot. so all the main wiring is done inside the car?
2. when you added the extra 12v power outlet in back, did you just cut into the rear one and run that power line to the new one?
3. when you added the interior blue/red floor lights, how did you hard wire them? I thought of several ways...either adding a 12v power outlet on the side and just plugging into it, or cutting off the lighter attachment and hard wiring to the same line.

I appreciate your help on this. I'm not the only one who likes to take things apart. Just get more nervous when its a $35,000 vehicle that i could break. lol...put a trailer harness in today and couldn't get the bottom and top panels apart to get the whole thing out to expose the fuse box/subwoofer and thought I was going to snap it.
 
Discussion starter · #176 ·
Hey, great job and ideas. sorry my first question wasn't clear. My first time using this site. I just traded in my traverse for a 2012 ex-l w/o nav. ( too many kids now.) i get the mini van while she gets the nice sporty Rav4. a couple questions.
1. when you say tap, you mean splice and tie together right? so you get power from that orange wire, run it to switch and then switch to the lights. then just ground the lights and switch wherever you find a spot. so all the main wiring is done inside the car?
2. when you added the extra 12v power outlet in back, did you just cut into the rear one and run that power line to the new one?
3. when you added the interior blue/red floor lights, how did you hard wire them? I thought of several ways...either adding a 12v power outlet on the side and just plugging into it, or cutting off the lighter attachment and hard wiring to the same line.

I appreciate your help on this. I'm not the only one who likes to take things apart. Just get more nervous when its a $35,000 vehicle that i could break. lol...put a trailer harness in today and couldn't get the bottom and top panels apart to get the whole thing out to expose the fuse box/subwoofer and thought I was going to snap it.
#1. When I tap it, I mean using "T-Tap" connectors , also can use "Quick Splice" connectors can buy from Walmart, Auto part stores (I used them on when I added the 12V jack front & 3rd row). And yes, get the power from the Orange wire to the 12v switch then use the exiting bolt(s) for Ground wire. All done from the inside.

#2. When I added the 12v jack in the 3rd row, I use Quick Splice to join the trunk 12v wires. I didn't cut them, and didn't run new 12v wire. Quick splice connectors don't requires cutting....that's the good part.

#3. Yes, I hardwire (Quick spliced) from the behind 12v + wire to around switch (where the Cooler Box switch) then
out the to LED controller. Then I grounded near exiting bolt. I better not cut any wires (is our new ride).
The LED (floor lighting) only uses 3watts, so no harm when Quick spliced).

Is good if you willing to take apart of your own car, the only way to learn about nuts & bolts and save $$$'s on our Odyssey's.
Ok, on the bottom panel, you need a plier or vise grip to unscrew those round screws. On the top panel, you need remove two screws inside the trunk overhead light,Then unplug the light connector, Then there's about 6 white clips holding in place, pull-down wards.
 
Discussion starter · #178 ·
Thats awesome. Thanks. I wasnt too fod of.cutting wires. So same technique as tapping into stereo wires. Did you have any surprises when taking the front bumper off?
yup~! same as installing a car stereo....about the front bumper, I downloaded the PDF "How to install OEM foglight".
so I won't catch any surprise when removing it.....I just took my time, snap-off, snap-on & about 15-20 bolts/fender screws...with cardboards under the bumper just incase I drop it.
 
Discussion starter · #179 ·
Hi nomorenow, thank you for the pictures.
Can you please show or at least write to connect power for the rearview camera? Also while putting wireless receiver and mirror for display, where did you get the power from?
Here is your request.......

1st pop-open the left back-up light cover, use an Flat screw from the bottom not from the side. Then slide downward.
Image


Here using two small Quick Splice connectors, Brown wire is + pos. , Black wire is - neg. to power up the Wireless Transmitter (has power connector out to the camera.)
Image


Mount the Wire Transmitter in the center. The license Led wires will Tap-on to orig white jack (I was tried & lazy to do an T-Tap on those two wires).
Image


Here where you need to the power to the Mirror display (the Orange wire (Accessory) , best do a T-Tap) Then run a about 14ga to 18ga Red wire along door seals (just pull outwards) to the top , then around the airbag pillar, mean while have the overhead console removed. Then pull thru the 12v red wire to overhead console. Wire the 12v to the Mirror display monitor, and ground black wire to exiting bolt. And plug-on your Wireless Receiver (depends what of plug you ordered)
Image


Good luck!~
 
Discussion starter · #180 ·
Hi Nimorenow,
Do you remember where you get the followings from internet/ebay? Links will be highly appreciated.

8: Rear Bumper Guard (2pcs) (Silver) $10
14: "Type S" Steering Wheel Spinner Knob $10 <---makes driving easier

Thanks.
Mufutau55

Mufutau
No problem,,,,here is your request.

Pacer Performance Bumper Guard Trim Protector 25-536(Silver)
Image
Pacer Performance Bumper Guard Trim Protector 25-536 | eBay or Pacer Performance Bumper Guard Trim Protectors - SummitRacing.com same Seller.
Type S Spinner Amazon.com: Type S AC50092-60/6 Steering Wheel Spinner Knob: Automotive $9.99 shipped if have Amazon Prime, otherwise plus shipping.....
or from ebay $14.36 shipped
Image
Type S AC50092-60/6 Steering Wheel Spinner Knob | eBay
 
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