valve adjust
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Thread: valve adjust

  1. #1
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    valve adjust

    Anybody adjusted the valves yet?

    I was going to do it when I was in doing the t-belt, but it took too long and I didn't get to it -- hopefully this weekend.

    I got a feeling since I have a '99 and kind of live in the country (rack up some miles there!), I may be doing a lot of stuff 'first'.

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  3. #2
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    I asked the Honda guy at the parts counter if they had the tool to adjust the valves and he asked a tech that was there and the tech mentioned that this is not a maintenance procedure and it should be done if there is a lot of valve train noise - which he has not seen.

    The 3.5 has hydralic adjusters, right? The 90 Integra had solid lifters and required adjustment like every 10k miles.

    Rick
    99 LX

  4. #3
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    I would have thought that Honda would have gone that way as well (hydralic lifters); however, it is listed at the 105K maintenance interval, and there is a procedure in the Service manual for doing it.

    Hondas in general have had in the past squeaky breaks and valve trains that can be a little noisy. I don't notice a lot of clatter, but there is a little. Is it 'normal'... I don't know. I've called my local dealer and I will report back what he says.

    Your resopnse is interesting for one reason -- usually a dealer won't turn down work

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    [i]...Your resopnse is interesting for one reason -- usually a dealer won't turn down work [/B]
    The Toyota dealers here tried successfully to not do a valve adjustment and valve guide seal replacement on my 105K miles '92 Camry. They said it is not worth it just to do that unless it really bothers me. The valves are not noisy at all...it was just the valve guide seals leaking when the engine was off and I'd get a blue puff every morning. This problem has since cleared up after switching from Valvaline 10W-30 to Mobile 1.

    I too was surprised to have them essentially turn down work.

  6. #5
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    FWIW the Honda dealer said they do them at 105k (of course that doesn't mean it is necessary!) See my post on 105K maintenance, but just the valve adjust portion was $394 dollars. I'm pretty confident I could do it in 3-4 hours -- that's some big money even for an educated fool such as myself.

    What I will do is go ahead and do the procedure and report back to the board how many if any of the valve clearances are off and by how much. It's been my experience that the first valve clearance check turns up a few but subsequent checks don't turn up much (I guess do to the engine settling in).

    I may not get to it as I already did an oil change and front brake disk brake pad replacement -- that was enough for tonight and I may be too burnrd out tomorrow... we'll see.

  7. #6
    Registered User William Wiles's Avatar
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    My 99-04 manual says to inspect at 105k and adjust only if noisy.
    2004 EX Odyssey.
    All posts made by me are in reference to the gen 2 Odyssey.

  8. #7
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    I don't know if the 3.5L has hydraulic or solid lifters, but my old 94 Integra had the solid lifters and had to be done every 30K. There is a special tool that allows you to hold the screw that adjusts the valve clearance and tighten the set secrew at once. The tool is kind like a screwdriver and 10 mm (or 12 mm) wrench combined. There is a snap on version that is about $50. Please report back on your experience. $394 to adjust the valves is pretty outrageous. On my Integra it was about $100 at the dealer.
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  9. #8
    Registered User Sandstone's Avatar
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    What makes it so expensive is all of the labor involved just to remove the cylinder head covers in order to gain access to the valves.

    Here is a summary of the procedure from the 99-03 Service Manual:

    - Remove the intake manifold covers, ignition coil covers, EVAP canister hose, vacuum hoses, breather pipe & intake air duct.

    - Remove the throttle cable, cruise control cable.

    - Remove the engine wire harness connectors & wire harness clamps from the intake manifold for the IAT sensor, IAC valve, TP sensor & MAP sensor.

    - Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, PCV hose, vacuum hoses, breather hose.

    - Remove & plug the water bypass hoses.

    - Remove the intake manifold. (No mention of replacing the intake manifold gasket, but it probabley would be a good idea to have one available, just in case.)

    - Remove the ignition coils.

    - Remove the cylinder head covers.

    - Adjust 24 valves.

  10. #9
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    I agree there is a bit to do there -- I looked through the manual as well. To me though, it still worth $400 bucks to do myself. I also agree that it's a good idea to replace the valve cover gaskets (they are only around $6 dollars from the dealer), and I picked up a couple for when I do it. I'm the most interested in how much the valves may have changed do to the engione settling in and from 105K worth of wear.

  11. #10
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    Originally posted by Kennyrayanderse
    I agree there is a bit to do there -- I looked through the manual as well. To me though, it still worth $400 bucks to do myself. I also agree that it's a good idea to replace the valve cover gaskets (they are only around $6 dollars from the dealer), and I picked up a couple for when I do it. I'm the most interested in how much the valves may have changed do to the engione settling in and from 105K worth of wear.
    You'll know when you get in there. With today's hardened materials, I would guess that the clearance would only increase and not have the valve pound into the seat and lose clearance, as in days past. I used to "adjust" the valves on my daughter's Toyota pick-up w/22R motor by the book. I do not think I ever had to change the setting on any one valve more than .001" or .002" in the whole 200K life of that motor, and I probably only changed the setting on five or six valves once in the entire time she owned the truck. I would guess that it is a waste of time to go there unless the motor is, as the manual suggests, "noisy". Just my take on the subject.

    Jerry O.
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  12. #11
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    Jerry,
    I suspect you are right on this one. I had a little more ajustment than you're describing on my Nissan Sentra at the first valve adjust (bought back in the college days), but after that first time through, it was much as you experienced.

    I guess I was thinking about it more as an investagtive exercise -- you know -- for the good of the board and all :-)

  13. #12
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    God bless you for undertaking all that work for the good of the board. Please keep us informed. I am very curious!
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  14. #13
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    Toyotas And Honda Valve adj

    Toyota Valve adjustment are harder. They use hydraulic lifters.
    They use shims to do valve adjustment. Like $.25 size pieces of metal. The only time I every did a valve adjustment is when I pulled of the cyl head to do a valve job, or to replace seals.
    On Honda's the valve adjustment should be always made when to engine is cold. not even running. Or noisey valve will be heard and the adjustment will be to tight. Take it from me a former Toyota and Honda Mechanic. If any question just e mail me. Bye.
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  15. #14
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    Those are not Hydraulic Lifters on the Toyota, they are called Shim and Bucket, they are solid and very popular on Sport Bike engines as well.

    Hyd Lifters do not need adjusting, they use Oil to fill the space..with small holes allowing the oil to flow a specific amount to keep them a specific size. When the holes get plugged, you get "sticky" and noisey Hyd Lifters.....

    I also had an '94 Integra, I inspected the valves twice in 94K and never had to adjust them. Still had two stock Michelins too!

    Not check out our Ody yet, just hit 30K I think....
    Last edited by JETninja; 01-30-2004 at 05:12 PM.
    JET
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  16. #15
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    82 Supra hydraulic lifters

    I remember rebuilding the 5MGE engine on my 82 supra. I sent off all 12 lifters to a Toyota Racing specialist fellow in Nevada (The Toy Store...since closed) and they all held oil fine. Funny thing was when I got them back he had a handful of little 3/8 inch washers on a wire ring in the box with the lifters. He told me to drop a washer in the bottom of each hold in the cylinder head before putting the lifters back in. This would cause the lifter to be a little higher than before and make sure the lifter was tall enough to be against the non-lift portion of the camshaft lobe at all times. He did this to keep me from having to pay $50 per lifter at the time.

    It worked for another 115K miles and I eventually sold the car at 230K miles for $2000 back in the later 90's.

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