If any of you with experience replacing engine mounts have a minute, would you help me out here? I have reviewed prior posts, which are very helpful, but before I dive into this, I have a few questions.
I am almost positive our side mount (passenger side) needs to be replaced because of the noise it makes when we start off, and because when I reved the engine while in drive, the engine raised up on the passenger side what looked like more than and inch or so. But, to get some assurance, I have included a picture to see if anyone can tell by looking whether the side mount is really shot.
I am not sure if the front mount is bad or not, and since it could take hours to replace, I do not want to replace it unless I have to. I do not see any oil leaks, so how do I know it needs to be replaced along with the side mount? I guess what I am really wondering about is, if I put in a new side mount, and I do not replace the worn front mount, could the worn front mount damage the new side mount with the extra movement is allows? Should they be replaced together?
Also, I have attached two pictures of the front mount, and I am wondering what the thing is that is located next to the mount. It is attached to the frame with two bolts, and looks like it has to come out to get the mount out. Can someone identify that for me? Thanks a lot for taking the time to read this and reply. Tom
I forgot to mention that our van is a 2004 EX with 82,000 miles. And, sorry for the typos, but I was in a rush to get this out tonight since I may buy the parts in the morning. Thanks.
Well...I got a dealer quote of more than $650 to replace the front and side mounts. Instead of replacing both, I just bought the side mount for about $70 from a local dealer and replaced that one myself. I will put off replacing the front mount to see if it is even worn out. Here is how the old one looked, but I could not see the big split until I got the part out. Just posting this is case it can help someone solve their engine noise problems and maybe save a few dollars.
First pic I have seen of a failed side mount. Thanks. From what I have read, the front mount leaks fluid when it fails. So you should be good on that one.
I just replaced all 4 at about 107,000 miles. All 4 were broken (well, 3 were definitely, and the dealer said the front was also - I did not see fluid, but what were the chances that only the front was still good?). I would get under the vehicle and take a look at the driver's side and rear mounts. Getting the rear mount out was difficult, but doable. I have a post in the 99-04 section about it. None of them, except the rear, were particularly hard for this amateur.
The front mount is not all that difficult. The fourth "hidden bolt" can be got at from the bottom with a short open end/box wrench. Remove the battery and plastic tray. Take it out between the two radiator hoses.
davedrivesody, Thanks for the information. I double checked and do not see any oil. So, I'll hold off on that one.
Elmer Fudd, Thanks for the link and information. I would feel better if all of them were changed, but I believe I will give it more time and mileage. I see where you jacked your engine up so much the van came off the jack stands? Kinda scary, huh? I am not sure I want to go that far. Did you lift the engine using the oil pan?
No, other posters said that it could lead to damaging the oil pan gasket. I used the transmission for my lifts. To do the rear mount I lifted it as far to the rear as I could, next to the shifter cable, to try to tilt the engine forward as much as possible, to get the rear mount engine bracket as high as possible.
I would suspect that fixing some but not all of the mounts would lead to the good ones going bad faster, because of the increased torque/movement put on the good mounts.
My dealer diagnosed the front and passenger mounts as bad when I took it in for an unrelated SRS issue. They probably did not bother lifting the vehicle to look at the other mounts.
Based on what I saw on my own vehicle, I would loosen the mounting bolts on all the mounts (with jack support, of course) when replacing any one, especially the driver side mounts, then tighten them in the recommended sequence: front, rear, passenger, driver.
With all of the failed front mounts, and no after market replacement, I got to thinking. These engines are very smooth, so why not a solid front mount? Has anyone taken a bad mount apart? Would it be possible to drill and drain/clean bad mount and then fill it with RTV silicone to make a "rubber" mount out of it. Not sure if this is just a crazy idea or maybe an inexpensive durable solution. Comments please. Thanks for any ideas or suggestions.
I took my 2002 Odyssey to a dealership service department, who claimed that my side engine mount and my rear engine mount needed replacement. How do I know if he’s telling the truth?
What are classic symptoms of broken engine mounts, that would be easily identifiable by an individual not in the least bit mechanically inclined?
Passenger side engine mount has brown fluid inside. And if leaking, you'll see evidence of it on the surrounding sheet metal. Take a look.
Rear mount there is a procedure to "measure" how the engine "sits." I recall seeing a bulletin how to check up on it.
Symptoms can be felt sometimes with hard acceleration usually from a stop with jerking or even mechanical clanking. There are tests you can do visually with the engine in gear and parking brake engadged but I do not recommend for the layman to try these.
I've got the same issue with my 02 when shifting into reverse. When cold the transmission bangs very hard, making the van jump. If I leave it to warm up the shift is totally smooth and unfelt. I have suspected it may be more of a transmission issue but a mount problem may be causing some of the effect. Just haven't taken the time to inspect the mounts. Perhaps once the snow is gone I'll be more motivated to get under the van. I'll be interested to see if anyone has a solution for this issue.
One safe way to check the engine mounts is:
Park the van on a level surface with the wheels turned to the right.
With the transmission in Park, parking brake off, open the hood.
At the right front wheel, grab the tire and try to roll the wheel (it will only rock back and forth since the van is in Park).
Look at the engine (hood's open right?) - is the engine rocking back and forth a "lot?" If so, good chance your mounts need to be replaced.
DISCLAIMER - my engine/trans mounts need to be replaced, so I don't know what it looks like when they are in new condition.
QUESTION: I keep seeing references to FOUR engine/transmission mounts, but I'm pretty sure I have FIVE (three engine, two transmission) in my 2003 Odyssey. Are there just four in other year-models?
One safe way to check the engine mounts is:
Park the van on a level surface with the wheels turned to the right.
With the transmission in Park, parking brake off, open the hood.
At the right front wheel, grab the tire and try to roll the wheel (it will only rock back and forth since the van is in Park).
Look at the engine (hood's open right?) - is the engine rocking back and forth a "lot?" If so, good chance your mounts need to be replaced.
DISCLAIMER - my engine/trans mounts need to be replaced, so I don't know what it looks like when they are in new condition.
QUESTION: I keep seeing references to FOUR engine/transmission mounts, but I'm pretty sure I have FIVE (three engine, two transmission) in my 2003 Odyssey. Are there just four in other year-models?
It won't change what you can see, and since there's no need nor benefit to have the engine running, so I'd prefer it to be off. It'll be quieter and to some extent, safer.
I never get very specific with my trusted mechanic back home. Is this a part that’s likely to be overlooked when replacing engine and transmission mounts? I’ll bring my laptop open to this page to him, if that’s the case.
Case resolved. After the initial diagnosis by a Chicago IL dealer that my rear and right side engine mounts were broken, I crossed my fingers, sucked it up, and drove from Chicago to San Diego and let my own mechanic have a look. He concurred but he said there was no “rear” engine mount. It was the front engine mount and the right side ones that needed replacing. He also pointed out that the “transmission flush” that the Chicago Auto Dealership was recommending for an additional $200. had already been done as part of the $500 15,000 mile service they we were performing. The dealership also recommended that the power steering fluid flush, and the fuel injector flush be performed for $170 and $160 respectively. According to my mechanic, neither of these services was necessary. Finally, the Chicago Auto Dealership recommended the replacement of the front brake pads for an additional $200. My mechanic did agree with that.
So, in short, of the six items the dealership recommended, estimated at $1500.00 over what I had already paid, only three were deemed necessary by my San Diego mechanic at a total cost of $580. The difference in savings paid for the cost of my six day drive from Chicago to San Diego, including fuel, meals and a few nights at various near-luxury hotels. Not a bad deal.
There seems to no end to what an authorized Honda dealership will do. All I know is that I wouldn’t touch that Schaumburg Honda dealership in IL, with a bargepole.
Additional note: According to my mechanic, there are three engine mounts and two transmission mounts, all of which need periodic inspections and all of which will almost inevitably fail with age.
Any chance anyone can say for sure if the front engime mount, the most expensive one, is filled with oil? I got the dreaded "your front engime mount is broken" form my dealer last week looking for $538 (Bernardi Honda, Brockton MA). But I know there is no fluid leaking so before i get an indy to do it for $190 I want to know for sure. Thanks all.
Any chance anyone can say for sure if the front engine mount, the most expensive one, is filled with oil? I got the dreaded "your front engine mount is broken" form my dealer last week looking for $538 (Bernardi Honda, Brockton MA). But I know there is no fluid leaking so before i get an indy to do it for $190 I want to know for sure. Thanks all.
Get a dental mirror from Walgreen's in order to view the underside of the front mount. Look for cracks in the rubber and leaks of orangish-brown oil. Then start the engine and rev the engine while observing the underside and gross movement of the mount -- watch your fingers and loose clothing. Check the other four mounts: #2,3,4,5,7 Note: Majestic lists #2 for $120. Replace #7, side mount for $60 while you are at it. These two are easy to get to. The others are a PITA.
Check if the indy garage uses OEM parts or aftermarket. Some aftermarket front mounts are solid and have no vacuum fitting. They won't give the same cushioning effect at idle as the OEM. If that's not a concern for you, great. Just wanted to point out the difference.