Valve adjustment parts list - 2nd Gen 1999-2004 Honda Odyssey
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Thread: Valve adjustment parts list - 2nd Gen 1999-2004 Honda Odyssey

  1. #1
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    Valve adjustment parts list - 2nd Gen 1999-2004 Honda Odyssey

    I will be preforming the valve adjustment procedure on my 2000 Honda Odyssey LX with 104 k miles for the 1st time . I have searched many of the threads but can't sfind the parts list for the valve adjustment for the 2nd Gen Honda Odyssey . I would appreciate someone posting the imformation or a link directing me to the

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  3. #2
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    Hi rkpatt,

    Looking at the valve adjustment procedure on the service manual, it seems all you need is head cover gaskets or may be spark plug shaft rings if leaking. May be intake manifold gasket if you move it. Other then that, a torque wrench, screw driver, and a filler gauge to measure the gips and a box wrench or two. Let us know if there are anything else. Hope this helps.

    Bruce

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    "Gasket set, head cover" 12030-P8A-A00
    That includes:
    one "gasket, head cover" 12341-P8A-A00 (the valve cover gasket),
    3 "seal, spark plug tube" 12342-P2F-A01, (spark plug tube seals), and
    5 "washer, head cover" 90442-P8A-A00 (the rubber washer gaskets to seal the valve cover bolts)

    So for one engine, you'll need two 12030-P8A-A00 kits. Looks like MSRP is around $35.68, and hondapartsdeals.com (for example) has them from $26.12 each.

    At 105k miles, all these rubber parts are likely to have hardened and will need replacement if you want to avoid leaks. I recommend being extra careful to make sure the spark plug tube seals line up correctly when re-installing. I did all this on my '99 at 105k at the same time as I did the Timing Belt. I also replaced the intake manifold gasket 17105-P8A-A01 at the time.

    When I did it, I did the full Timing Belt job (with all the bells and whistles), valve adjustment, cleaned out the throttle body and intake manifold. Some of these jobs are only loosely related, but I found it easier to do them all at once. The downside is that if something ends up being wrong when you put it all back together, it will be tougher to figure out, since you touched so many things. Still, I'd do them all together. I'm due for another TB soon (just went over 205k), but do not need to do the valves adjustment since I did that recently while chasing some other problem.
    2011 Odyssey LX, 42k miles
    1999 Odyssey EX, 220k+ miles, original owner

  5. #4
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    Hi oldskewel,

    Thanks for the additional info. Would you please let us know how bad were the gaps off the margin at 105k miles?

    I am also planing to make the valves adjustment while it is a bit over 203k miles but still not sure if I really need to have it done. Please shed some more light on the subject and may be a little motivation.

    Sorry to hijacking the thread.

    Thanks,
    Bruce

  6. #5
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    I checked my notes, and I did not make any special ones for the 105k adjustment, but I was debugging something else at 190k and here's what I noted:

    Valve adjustment

    Remove intake manifold, valve covers.

    Tough part is to then remove the front cam pulley cover: 5 10mm screws (careful not to drop one); to remove cover will then require loosening the 10mm screw holding the oil dipstick tube in place; loosen (but don't remove, otherwise it would be difficult to get it started again) screw then pulley cover can be pulled out (towards right side of car), allowing the indentation to clear the pulley; this step alone takes about 1 hour to remove and replace.

    17mm socket on 1/2" breaker bar (not ratchet), rotate 4-5-6 cam pulley bolt clockwise until mark on edge of cam points to the #1 cylinder at TDC. Specifically, the little tick mark right on the edge of the pulley teeth lines up with the line on the cam housing. The other marks on the pulley, closer to the center, are for checking when looking through the rubber-plug-covered hole in the cam pulley cover. Ignore those.

    Adjust intake valves first (2 per cylinder). Measure and note clearance prior to adjustment. Probably loose by about 0.02-0.04 mm.

    Since all valves tended to loosen since last adjustment, I decided to aim for the lower bound when adjusting. Slide in feeler gauge equal to the lower bound (0.20 mm for intake, 0.28 mm for exhaust). Adjust screw while sliding feeler back and forth to find point where it binds, then back off that a hair and tighten the lock nut. Double check tightness after locking lock nut (10mm closed end wrench), and next size up in feeler gauge should only partially go in (e.g., some fraction of the width of the tappet).

    Rotate cam pulley 60 degrees at a time, do for all 6 sets of intake valves.

    Same thing for exhaust valves, except 0.28-0.32 mm spec; use second set of feeler gauges that has exact 0.28 mm feeler gauge.

    Slightly smarter variation on the above might be to start with the #4 intake valve instead of #1, since it is more visible and accessible. Can get a feel for things on the easier ones before doing the back ones. The rear exhaust valves are purely by feel.

    Measurements prior to adjustment in Feb 2011 at 190k miles
    2 values are for the left (starboard) and right (port) valves in each pair, when facing the engine from the front of the car
    cylinder # intake exhaust
    spec 20-24 28-32 all values are in .01 mm
    1 27, 27 31, 32
    2 26, 25 32, 32
    3 26, 26 28, 29 the exhaust valves were not adjusted
    4 25, 28 30, 30 the exhaust valves were not adjusted
    5 29, 25 31, 33
    6 29, 27 30, 35 the left exhaust valve was not adjusted

    Prior to this, there was no unusual valve noise, and doing the adjustment did not appear to change anything.
    2011 Odyssey LX, 42k miles
    1999 Odyssey EX, 220k+ miles, original owner

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    Thanks odskewel, for your excellent procedure and details. I am going to make copy of it for future reference if you don't mine.
    However, your last statement is surely encouraging and motivating.

    Cheers!
    Bruce

  8. #7
    Registered User mjody's Avatar
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    You do not need to remove the cam pulley cover, there is a rubber cap that you remove and the cylinder number that is TDC is visible.

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    Does anyone know what size the valve adjustment locknuts are? I've heard 13mm, 10mm, and 7mm! Thanks!
    01 EX w/Nav (probably) bought 5/12 w/190k

  10. #9
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    10mm, and I'm doing this right now, ~111,000 miles on this 2002 EX. All exhaust valves so far seem to be 1 thousandths too tight, and the intakes are 1 thousandths (as in inches) loose. Really, all were pretty darn close to spec. I hated to have to readjust them, but I might as well do it since I disassembled a bunch of stuff to get this far.

    OF
    2003 Ody EX-L RES 103.5k OEM fogs & hitch, bbylon5 screen mod, chuck k fog mod#2, cnn 82C t-stat mod
    2002 Ody EX RES 96.0k OEM fogs & hitch, chuck k fog mod#1
    1998 Accord LX174k. DIY: Haynes 676 ATF cooler; T & acc belts & tensioners.
    1982 Ebbtide DynaTrak bass boat, 200hp Merc, DIY re-fit 2006-07: CMC jackplate, Teleflex Canada Steering, Torque-Shift 14-26 vari-pitch SS prop
    SNAPPER mower 5.5hp Honda


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    Video Honda J Series V6 Valve Adjustment (Part 1 & 2 ) -EricTheCarGuy

    Eric the Car Guy Part I
    Eric the Car Guy Part II

    This V6 appears similar to my odyssey except I have cables going to my throttle body rather than fly by wire and not bonus plastic covers scattered around the engine compartment

    I just did the EGR port cleanout to stop the recurring P0401 code and wish I had taken on the valve adjustment at the same time I was part way there.

    If burning a valve is really an improbability, I will probably NOT take on valve adjustment and just keep driving my 2000 Ody LX until the kids are grown and my wife is again ready for a smaller car
    All the best

    Jamey

  12. #11
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    Here is a link to a lower cost version of the 10mm tool as shown in Part II of Eric the Car Guy video

    Amazon.com: Alltrade 648827 10mm 7-1/2-Inch Jam Nut Valve Adjustment Tool: Home Improvement
    All the best

    Jamey

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