Front caliper rattle follow up
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Thread: Front caliper rattle follow up

  1. #1
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    Front caliper rattle follow up

    Back in 2010, it was suggested that a fix for the front caliper pin rattle is: "...replacing the #13 caliper pin with the #23 p/n on the front brake parts exploded view on any of the honda parts stores. The lower pin has a noise dampener part of the pin (rubber sleeve) which I use on the top part of the caliper as well as the bottom hole. Now there are two noise dampening pins which eliminate any rattles.I also make sure I grease the pins with white lithium grease,I have had great results. Give it a try."

    I have the rattle on my 2002EX and have ordered #23 but am not clear on the above suggestion. Question I have is, do I substitute #23 for #13 entirely or do I just remove the rubber sleeve from 23 and slide the sleeve over the existing #13? Reason for the question is this: the two pins themselves are not identical; one has a straight shaft and the other narrows and has a flanged end (see pic from Autozone below). For whatever reason, Honda designed the two pins differently, and although I want the rattle to go away, I am a bit leery of doing too much re-engineering.

    Thus, I am inclined to think that the best way to go is to remove
    the rubber sleeve from 23 & reinsert it on 13 (unless the sleeve is permanently affixed to #23) as opposed to simply swapping #13 with a #23.

    I'll have a better idea after I pick up the 23, but will be grateful for advice from anyone who has utilized this solution.


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  3. #2
    Registered User New Dad New Van's Avatar
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    I just replaced both pins with new parts - nothing else.
    2001 Odyssey LX
    2003 ACURA EL Touring

    UNOFFICIAL 2001 ODYSSEY THREAD: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showth...664#post384664

  4. #3
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    I suggest using the correct OEM parts, which is one sleeved and one non-sleeved pin per caliper. Just buy new pins like New Dad New Van said. The one with the rubber sleeve comes with the sleeve. Apply high-temperature synthetic caliper grease to the pins instead of Lithium grease. Replace the boots if they are torn and make sure the boots are properly seated on the caliper bracket to avoid exposing the pins to the elements. Use a thin 17mm wrench (e.g. bicycle cone wrench) to hold the pins in place while tightening the bolts to spec; this keeps the boot from twisting.

  5. #4
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    One other suggestion is to clean out the crud from the caliper bracket where those pins insert. That should get rid of the lithium grease, if that's what was in there originally. I understand lithium grease is petroleum-based and may swell or deteriorate the rubber sleeve on the pins.

  6. #5
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    I too was concerned about the lithium grease on the pins. In addition to the concerns mentioned by 6-speed, it can't take the heat. Use a special-purpse brake lube instead.
    2002 Odyssey EX FG
    Honda hood deflector, mud guards, AC condenser screen mod, Zyml wax, Amsoil EaO20 oil filter, Amsoil synthetic 5W20, Krown rustproofing, block heater (gets cc...cold in Canada in winter!)
    Original transmission at 117,000 miles/189,000 km, Amsoil ATF since 79,000 miles/127,000 km, Honda aux ATF cooler, Magnefine aux ATF filter, 16 ATF drain & fills

  7. #6
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    Well, I did install a Genuine Honda pin today, replacing the top pin with the new one which is actually the bottom rubber sleeve pin #23. The old (original?) pin did not have the sleeve. Before installing the new one I carefully compared the two & they seemed identical except for the rubber sleeve. I greased the new one with CRC Brake & Caliper Grease from Autozone because it claimed to be safe for rubber. It installed easily. Then I pulled the bottom pin even though I had not planned on replacing it. Just wanted to see if it had the sleeve - it did. So I wiped off the old grease and put CRC on it before reinstalling. It seems that most of my rattle is from the driver side so I did that one first. Have not had a chance to test it on a slightly bumpy stretch of road but will do so report back soon. If it eliminates the rattle I will likely also do the passenger side because the pin is not expensive. Will try to post some pictures of the new and old pins then. Also, I plan to check the pads & rotor periodically to be sure the new pin is not causing uneven wear. By the way, anybody know why Honda is using two types of pins? I have replaced pins on Nissans and a Ford before; they were identical unlike for the Ody.

  8. #7
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    I have a caliper rattle as well on the pass side. I shimed the pins with brass shim stock but that didn't help. It seems like the caliper its self is not holding pressure tight to the pads. It gets tight when you apply the brakes then loosens up as soon as you let off the pedal. The noise is not coming from the pins but from the caliper rattling loosely on the pads. The drivers one is nice and tight. Does anybody have an answer for this???

  9. #8
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    I have now road tested my '02 after substituting the original upper caliper pin with the one that has the rubber sleeve. The rattle is completely gone. Braking is straight and sure. Again, I intend to inspect my pads periodically to see if there is uneven wear but I'll be surprised if there is. The job was relatively easy for those who want to tackle it. Thanks to mrags80 who suggested this fix back in 2010. I just became an Ody owner in March so even though that thread is old, it was very useful to me.

  10. #9
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    Just a final comment. The front end is so quiet since I installed the rubber sleeve on the driver side that I am not going to do the passenger side ... ain't broke don't fix it, I guess. Anyway, since I won't be buying another rubber sleeved pin, I won't be posting a picture of it. However, if you look at aftermarket pic I included in my first post on this thread, be aware that on the genuine Honda pin the narrower section of the left pin is where the rubber sleeve is affixed. So, why don't aftermarket suppliers utilize the sleeve? I have no idea.

  11. #10
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    Hey I just replaced my caliper pins and I got the same aftermarket ones posted but I also asked for the boot kit which comes with the rubber sleeves. I didn't know what it was for since my stock pins didn't have them and looked totally different. However, I haven't noticed any rattles but I did pack the calipers with a lot of brake lube so maybe it will happen after awhile?
    - Chris

    2011 Odyssey Touring
    2014 VW GLI 6spd
    1995 VW Cabrio 5spd

  12. #11
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    Others have reported that the aftermarket pins are quiet for a period of time after being generously re-greased. But all to soon the rattle comes back. That's why I went with the Gen. Honda pin that has the rubber sleeve. It's the same amount of work as replacing with aftermarket and only a few bucks more.

  13. #12
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    Interesting. I looked for my rubber sleeves but I must have thrown them out by mistake. Not a biggie I will just go order another set just in case. Does it go on the end of the weird looking pin?
    - Chris

    2011 Odyssey Touring
    2014 VW GLI 6spd
    1995 VW Cabrio 5spd

  14. #13
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    Just like this


  15. #14
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    Oh, so you put the rubber sleeve on BOTH pins? The pin on the right above looks like its the one in the first pic in the first post on the left

    Also, based on your pic I think I put the the other rubber thing on backwards, lol
    - Chris

    2011 Odyssey Touring
    2014 VW GLI 6spd
    1995 VW Cabrio 5spd

  16. #15
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    I can only speak for my '02. All I did was pull out the existing top pin (like the one on the left in 6-Speeds' post), which had no rubber sleeve permanently affixed to it, and then slide in (after greasing) a Honda bottom pin, which did. It looks like the one on the right in 6-Speed's post. I reused the existing rubber protective boots. That's it. The picture posted by 6 Speed shows other pieces, including a separate rubber-looking cylindrical piece. That piece was not part of my repair job nor was it in the packaging containing my purchased bottom Honda pin. Maybe if I had explored the caliper itself further I would have found those; I just don't know. The parts diagram is not very clear on this, by the way (I apparently made a mistake in earlier posts by referencing the upper pin as # 13, when it is #14). I am not a mechanic, just a DIY'er and I simply wanted to report my successful (so far) experience with an easy fix originally suggested back in 2010. Maybe someone with more experience can explain the details of exactly what goes where regarding all the pieces.


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