2001 Odyssey Catalytic Converter Replacement
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Thread: 2001 Odyssey Catalytic Converter Replacement

  1. #1
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    2001 Odyssey Catalytic Converter Replacement

    I'm going to replace my OEM catalytic converter with a Walker 16457 Ultra EX direct fit converter. I've given all of the fasteners a good shot of PB Blaster and will hit them again before the weekend comes. Hopefully, I won't break or need to cut any of the bolts. If I do cut or break one or more of the bolts, is it absolutely necessary to use identical bolts or will a different bolt/washer/nut combination suffice? I assume all the bolts need to do is pull the joint together. The replacement bolts from Honda are quite pricey. If I were to go to a hardware store to procure replacement bolts for this purpose, what specs would I want?

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  3. #2
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    Wait!!!!!!!! before you buy you need to past a test or its just because you got P0420 code ?? which mean bad catalytic converter ??

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    Quote Originally Posted by raphael03 View Post
    Wait!!!!!!!! before you buy you need to past a test or its just because you got P0420 code ?? which mean bad catalytic converter ??
    I've been having recurring P0420 codes for the past couple years. I've done the EGR cleaning and replaced the PCV valve. The values coming from the O2 sensors look normal when I monitor them. I've already ordered the replacement catalytic converter. I just don't want to pay $8.00 each for bolts unless I have to do so. Hopefully, I can reuse the existing ones, but wanted to be able to spec something appropriate in case I break or have to cut them.

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    ohh well. i rather do this trick before spending money on an aftermarket CAT Can the Catalytic code P0420 be overridden permanently? it easy and it WORKS ! i did it recentlty no light so far

  6. #5
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    Before you proceed, have you read this thread?:

    http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-199...tly-print.html

    I'm at two years now with no codes since this fix. Original cat still installed. Just passed the bi-annual emissions test too

    Edit: somebody else beat me to the punch above, but great minds think alike!
    2001 Odyssey EX 175K miles, 70K on the 3rd tranny, now running Dex III ATF with Lubegard Friction Modifier (black bottle)

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    If I recall correctly from reading other catalytic converter threads, there's some question about the legality of using the non-foulers. Is this correct?

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    It is absolutely illegal (so is taking off the mattress tag)

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    By using the non-foulers, aren't you messing with the overall control of the engine as well? Basically, you're pulling the O2 sensor out of the stream so that it will give a false reading and not trigger the CEL and P0420. I wouldn't think this would be good for the engine since the ECM will make some type of compensation for the false reading. I haven't dug into this enough to be able to accurately state what the effect would be, but it seems to me that faking out the O2 sensor isn't the best idea.

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    Thanks for all the advice. I think I'm going to go ahead and replace the catalytic converter. With a $40 Walker rebate and the converter's scrap value, I can do it fairly economically.

    Now back to my original question. Does anyone have any advice on the catalytic converter bolt/washer/nut specifications other than buying the expensive ones from the dealer or online Honda parts places?

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    Bolts from a hardware store would probably be only low grade steel. Those may be suitable for rigging a child's swing but not for automotive applications. Go to a place that specializes in fasteners and get grade 8 hardware. I don't know for sure, but this is probably what is on the van now. They aren't cheap, but will probably be half what Honda wants.
    2002 Odyssey EX FG
    Honda hood deflector, mud guards, AC condenser screen mod, Zyml wax, Amsoil EaO20 oil filter, Amsoil synthetic 5W20, Krown rustproofing, block heater (gets cc...cold in Canada in winter!)
    Original transmission at 117,000 miles/189,000 km, Amsoil ATF since 79,000 miles/127,000 km, Honda aux ATF cooler, Magnefine aux ATF filter, 16 ATF drain & fills

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    the downstream has nothing to do with the mix of gas ... downstream just read the performance of the CAT . NOW the upstream O2 sensor deals with the mix of gas. weather to lean or rich. does the police go under your car an see if you have done anything to ur CAT ??

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    With non-OEM catalytic converter, your P0420 will come back between 90-180 days. Do remember to make a post here after that time so that I can add another data point to my running statistics.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sontakke View Post
    With non-OEM catalytic converter, your P0420 will come back between 90-180 days. Do remember to make a post here after that time so that I can add another data point to my running statistics.
    Are you guaranteeing this for every non-OEM cat regardless of manufacturer, price, spec, etc.? Do you have any feedback specific to this particular model?

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    I like stainless steel hardware. It can be taken apart in the future.
    Mike
    2000 Odyssey LX
    Trans at 82k -- Tru-cool trans cooler
    DIY Timing Belt at 104k
    Hidden Hitch & Airlift 1000's

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    Quote Originally Posted by kknh3 View Post
    By using the non-foulers, aren't you messing with the overall control of the engine as well? Basically, you're pulling the O2 sensor out of the stream so that it will give a false reading and not trigger the CEL and P0420. I wouldn't think this would be good for the engine since the ECM will make some type of compensation for the false reading. I haven't dug into this enough to be able to accurately state what the effect would be, but it seems to me that faking out the O2 sensor isn't the best idea.
    The secondary O2 sensor has nothing to do with the engine controls. Its only purpose is to monitor the performance of the catalytic converter.

    I have no issues with using the non-fouler as it changes NOTHING with regards to the actual emissions that your vehicle is putting out. The fact is, in 99 of 100 cases, if they actually bothered to sniff the tailpipe with the P0420 code present, the vehicle would easily still pass the emissions test. But since OBD II, if you have an active code, you fail emissions, period, regardless of what the ACTUAL emissions are from the tailpipe. The gov't trusts the on-board computer to determine if everything is OK, rather than actually checking (at least in my state). And Honda has set the bar in their check algorithms very low so just a very tiny decrease in converter performance will set this code.
    2001 Odyssey EX 175K miles, 70K on the 3rd tranny, now running Dex III ATF with Lubegard Friction Modifier (black bottle)

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