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oil leaks around engine block

35K views 81 replies 8 participants last post by  surgeon 
#1 ·
I had the engine fully cleaned some time ago. Now new build up around the side near EGR, front from spark plug outlets down. Is there another seal or gasket to replace?

I am due for a timing belt change (106k). While at it, need to replace the oil pump gasket. This has been a while also and did not get a chance to replace. For this, do I have to drain the oil or just taking out the filter enough basic drain?

Also, the oil burn smell is coming through the vents recently. Something from top must be leaking down. When I open the hood when hot, some of the fumes do smell like oil for a few seconds. Would it be part of this seal causing all the leaks around?

Thanks

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#3 ·
Thanks otto888man. Yeah, I change oil myself as much as possible unless there is a good coupon deal at Firestone. Will check the torques tomorrow. I am planning a timing belt change.
 
#7 ·
The reason why I asked if you do your own oil changes as the leak could be from spilled oil from the oil fill hole. I have seen this many times. I would suggest to clean the engine thouroughly before changing any gasket. If you can steam clean the engine. Be sure that it wont freeze up. This is how I determine if the engine has a leak. I hope this helps. Keep me posted.
 
#5 ·
Yup. I got part 15825-P8A-A01 to replace in the oil pump as suggested by mjody some time back. Wonder if I should start with this since the access is first and before starting with major TM work as this is my first time. I have the parts.

Wasnt sure if it is ok to do that while I have the cam covers off.. If oil spills more cleanup.

Can I get away with removal and drain of oil filter before removing the housing without fill oil drain? Thanks.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Finished timing belt pending post-mortem/lessons learned.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/187594-stat-help-timing-belt-change-progress.html

Back to oil leak (new). Changed the VTEC solenoid screen and O-ring (parts 13, 15 on oil pump diagram). Have not removed wheel and rechecked for visual tonight but the filter housing was clean looking from top. Also changed the flattened dipstick o-ring during TB change. I did not have OEM as dealership parts was closed on Sun. Got one at Oreilly no 012 and it fit fine. Looks clear around the opening still.

I wiped bottom of oil pan clean and up towards passenger side. On the back side moderately clean and sprayed brake fluid and wiped yesterday. Just came back from the test drive. Only now I see oil drops again and one even fell on the driveway already. Line formation to the bolt, drip. Overnight nothing but it needed the drive.

The leak is coming from top of the pan on the passenger side according to the path of the leak. There are some fresh spots around the top. I am reading up on all the possible threads using search function. One (drip, drip, drip) says it was a twisted seal after removing the harmonic balancer... My lower timing belt cover seal also looked little twisted but I placed it back fine.

How can I check this better?

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#9 ·
#13 ·
Done. All 10mm bolts clicked at 104.4 lb-in (8.7 lbft). Cleaned all around oil pan and trans. Took pics again.

When I did the timing belt, the camshaft seals looked ok (dry in the pulley area). But if there was leak below the bottom TB cover, i should see much more oil leaking between filter housing and crank pulley right? Just wondering.

My ATF must be leaking too. On one of the bolts under it, I saw fresh pink oil. That has always been oil and grease there each time I clean.

Time to drive and wait until I drive again enough to see a drip. Will upload pics in a little bit.
 
#14 ·
When I start the car cold, I see smoke on warmup on both sides of the valve covers. Would that mean both gaskets need to be changed? I will order new and then I can adjust valves also.
 
#16 ·
Cool. Looked up the diagram

2x 12341-P8A-A00 GASKET, HEAD COVER
6x 12342-RYE-004 SEAL,SPARK PLUG T ???
1x 15613-PC6-000 GASKET, OIL FILLER (optional?)

These it or should I get anything else (gaskets/seals) while ordering so that I dont have to pay shipping again later?
 
#18 ·
Just picked up from the dealer. $37 after discount. This stealership has high markup.

2x 12341-P8A-A00 GASKET, HEAD COVER
6x 12342-RYE-004 SEAL,SPARK PLUG T

They did not have the kit in stock. Had gasket and sp seals. Hopefully I wont need oil filler gasket (right?). I asked about honda bond since I have the Toyota OE gasket sealer, its black. He said they are both the same. Since its a small amount can either use that or get any AM like Permatex grey.
 
#19 ·
Checking procedure in manual. Do I need a dial indicator tool to measure guide to stem clearance? Let me check some videos. I think ETCG has one.
 
#21 ·
Oops was in the wrong section. Scrolled up and found the valve clearance adj. Will use the 10mm wrench and screwdriver. Will clean out the EGR port when that is done.
 
#25 ·
The ATF drain plug is torqued and fill from the dipstick hole. Will look under for drip pattern for oil and ATF today after valve adj. We drove the van eve yesterday.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Yep. Had to run to store to get a new filler gauge with .229 and .305 on it. Noted torque lock nuts 14 lbf and head cover bots 8.7 lbf.

Initial findings after taking out plenium and sps. Sps are dry but front ones have yellowish powder like stuff on 4,5 coil springs. Only the front sps have the yellow corona. Looks like 4,5 were also not as tight as the others. Back ones are plain, dry. Will re-gap when putting pack.

Oil puddle at 1 cyl cover bolt between 4 and 5. Oil in deep space between the front cyl block and center intake pipes. Pipes are more black than my first cleaning for EGR work.

Looks like I need at least one bolt washer (10x 90442-P8A-A00 WASHER, HEAD COVER $4.82+). Hope dealer has them in stock. Opening the rest now.

Did peek under and there are drip lines on the opposite side of trans drain bolt. Drops from oil plan, have to check the drip line.

Edit: Great. Parts dept is closed today. Wonder if Pepboys or Napa has them.

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