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'04 Odyssey - Multiple Electrical Failure

2K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  bldrake 
#1 ·
I tried looking for this information in the current posts, so I apologize if this is a repeat

I just bought an '04 EX-L w/Navigation. It has the following electrical problems. Before I go tearing into the car, I was wondering if any of these are related..

1) Key activates/Deactivates alarm, does not lock/unlock doors
Alarm will not arm if any door is unlocked
2) Drivers door lock/unlock control only locks/unlocks passenger side and tailgate
3) Passenger power sliding door does not close by the door handle (it does open with the door handle). Key fob and driver control close and open the door
4) Passenger window does not roll down from the driver's control. Driver's control does roll it up
5) Rear Vent Windows (3rd) seat, appear to work/not work at random
6) Seat heaters not working wither side

The engine and transmission work great.

Any help would be appreciated. I am going to start with the door locks on sliding doors, unless there is a common component.

Thanks
 
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#2 ·
sounds like you have multiple issues within the drivers door controls that would require removing the interior door panel to investigate.

i would start by cleaning the contacts on the electrical panels in the sliding door jams. very easy using a pencil eraser, also, cycle the door limit switches within the door jams as well,, they could be sticking. these are simple push in switches that have black insulating boots around them.
could also try a lean procedure for the sliding doors,, it might help.
your passenger window,, sounds like a switch problem at the drivers control,, you didn't say if the passenger control worked
rear windows,, not a new problem,, its an overheat problem ,, there has been solutions posted about wiring a resistor into the circuit to overcome the problem.
seat heaters has to be a fuse issue or they are just disconnected
 
#3 ·
Check Fuse #78 (20A) in the Under-Hood Sub Fuse Box by the battery for the seta heaters.
 
#4 ·
Sorry I am slow in responding, life got really busy.

I checked all the fuses, the seat heater fuse was burned, replaced and they work
Yes, the passenger window control works fine, and I can close the passenger window from the drivers side.

I am thinking of what it will take to do this and thinking I might be better off paying the $100 for the dealer to troubleshoot it
 
#5 ·
After reading a few more post, I checked the key fob...

With the drivers side unlocked, pressing the unlock button on the fob would unlock the passenger side and the tailgate, but not either sliding door. Pressing the lock button would lock the passenger and tailgate, but neither sliding door nor the drivers door.
With the drivers side locked, pressing the unlock button on the fob would not lock any door. Depressing the drivers door lock would lock the passenger and tailgate, but not either sliding door.

I am thinking I will just replace the passenger multiplexer. Any other hints?
 
#6 ·
I am thinking I will just replace the passenger multiplexer. Any other hints?
I've been able to fix the so-called multiplexer. It is an interesting assembly, made up of a number of sheet metal strips and fuse holder clips. On some of the high current fuses (20A), I found heat related damage causing a loss of contact pressure to the fuse(s). Over time, more heat builds, more intermittent contact. The clips are near impossible to fix, however, the boards typically have unused fuse locations. You can swap fuse clips that way. I also make it a habit to replace ATC fuses by the ten to twelve year mark. Underhood fuses also.
 
#7 ·
Sorry I haven't replied in so long. Life got in the way.

As luck would have it, all the electrical failures were independent. The fuse for the seat heaters was blown. Replacing the multiplexer fixed the passenger window issue, and I replaced the actuator on the front door. I still have to replace the actuators on the sliding doors, but things are getting better.
 
#8 ·
And to top it off, when I got the drivers door apart, someone had been in there and didn't reinstall the window guide, so when the window rolled down it broke the wires that go to the sensor on the drivers door key lock, explaining why when the alarm was set, unlocking the drivers door with the key would sound the alarm.

Gotta love used cars
 
#12 ·
The actuators are pretty cheap (there's after market ones too) plus you get a new set of gears. The only time I had an issue with one in my van it was the gear set worn and bound stuck. Funny thing is I have a 99 Accord that had a bad motor in the actuator so I ordered a new one. Sadly it wasn't exactly right but the new motor fit into the old housing. I then stole the gears out of the new housing for my van. Two fixes with one order, gotta love it.
 
#13 · (Edited)
The dealership offered to charge me $900 to replace the actuators on the sliding doors and drivers door. The parts, from majestic honda online, totaled $100 after shipping so definately worth just replacing. Now the actuator on my accord, that $70 by itself, wish I had thought about just replacing the motor

As for the purchase of an old Ody....The service records were immaculate, every 3 months the original owner took it to the dealer, great ride, no leaks, in excellent shape. I haggled them down $800 from their asking price because of the electrical issues, so I saved a little money. And my wife liked the car.

The only thing I regret is buying one with a navigation system. That thing is useless and if it goes, it may take the air conditioning with it since the controls are part of that system, and living in Tucson, that would force me to get rid of it.


Driver's side sliding door actuator is fixed, tomorrow I will do the passenger side.
 
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