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How much ATF?

14K views 26 replies 11 participants last post by  Jimbob66 
#1 ·
I've looked all over the owners manual and internet and can't find a clear answer to this one question. I want to do an ATF drain in the coming weeks and found some pretty good instructions which I will include in a link. So my question is, for each flush, how many quarts of ATF should I use? It's a 2000 Ody by the way.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B06qnZE1G4UyMnpwelBwaHpIXzA
 
#2 ·
Your B7TA 4-speed transmission should drain 3.1 quarts from the sump.

Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF is a well-regarded synthetic ATF used by a number of people on our forum. It is difficult to beat in terms of great price paired with great performance.

AmSOil and Red Line D4 are also good choices.

OF
 
#3 ·
I asked a similar question a few weeks ago. Another forum suggested pouring the old fluid into one container and then get an equal container and pour the new fluid in that - matching the level. I went and bought two gallon water jugs from the grocery store. I watered my plants with the water and then let the jugs dry out. I made sure my oil catch pan was empty and drained the old fluid out of the trans into that. I then poured the old oil (using a funnel) into the first empty water jug. I then poured the new fluid into the other empty water jug and matched the levels. After putting the drain plug in I simply poured the new fluid in. I used an old turkey baster and funnel to fill via the trans dipstick tube. When I checked the level after letting it warm up it was perfect! I used Honda DW1 transmission fluid from the dealer. Don't forget to get new crush washers. I'll probably be doing another drain and fill on our other ody this week! Good luck and have fun.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Measuring what came out is a good way to do it only IF the level was properly checked BEFORE you drained out the old fluid.
If it was, then it is excellent method as you only have to add fluid once and you avoid overfilling.
Still, the dipstick should be used for a final check of fluid level.
I usually just add 3 qts (my '03 usually drains out around 3.5 qt) and check the level and go from there.
As Odyfamily stated, the 4 sp drains less.
Honda DW-1 fluid is excellent, just don't use Honda Z-1 (owner's manual recommended atf fluid, even on the 2010) as it is NOT. The Valvoline MaxLife Dex\Merc atf (and some other compatible synthetic atfs) is also highly recommended by many on here and is a lot cheaper, and some think better than even the DW-1 and definitely better than the Honda Z-1.
Buffalo4
 
#7 ·
Measuring what came out is a good way to do it only IF the level was properly checked BEFORE you drained out the old fluid.
If it was, then it is excellent method as you only have to add fluid once and you avoid overfilling.
Still, the dipstick should be used for a final check of fluid level.

Buffalo4
Oops, I forgot to add that. Yes, make sure you have the correct level before draining and then check it again afterwards. Thanks for adding those important steps!
 
#6 ·
On my last ATF change, I followed the suggestion to measure the drained fluid and replace the same volume with new. But the level was way low after refilling.

I think what happened is the old fluid was warm so the bottle bulged out and so it held more fluid than the bottle markings indicated.

For next time, I bought a sturdy measuring cylinder to get a more accurate measurement.

Dave
 
#8 ·
There are many ways to skin this cat, and all the preceding advice is good.

But that link the OP provides in post #1 is doubtful, I would say. I would not recommend doing anything like that for your first ATF drain and fill. More importantly, it demands use of Honda Z-1, which many on this list think of as "liquid death" for the early Honda AT's. You will hopefully not be able to find Z-1 even if you tried. It has been superseded by Honda DW1, and many on this list have had success with Valvoline MaxLife or Amsoil.
 
#13 ·
But that link the OP provides in post #1 is doubtful, I would say. I would not recommend doing anything like that for your first ATF drain and fill.
I agree with that, and raise to include any drain and fill, not just the first.

If the steps are followed exactly, it's probably okay. But there's too much opportunity to damage the transmission by inadvertently deviating from the procedure. The real purpose of that procedure is to reduce the time to do multiple drain and fills (good for a dealer tech).

Driving the car for a bit is less risky (and much more fun).

Dave
 
#10 · (Edited)
It is unnecessarily complicated unless you know you have a real AT problem already.

I would do the first one and a half steps and stop, except replacing Z-1 with DW1, and instead of raising it on a lift, I would reach under the car without even jacking it up. Drain into a pan, pour that into an empty milk jug to estimate how much came out (should be between 3 and 4 qts somewhere). Then refill through the dipstick, using how much came out as something of a sanity check.

This way, the only tool is a 3/8" square drive ratchet, one drain bolt (I usually re-use the washer with no resulting leaks), and refilling through the dipstick requires a customized funnel. Very tough for something to go wrong with this plan, vs. the one in that link.

If you find the ATF looks dirtier than you'd like, I recommend to D+F again after a thousand miles, and at every oil change, etc. until it is as red as you like.

EDIT - also, noticing you are on your original AT, if your ATF is overdue for a change, I would be cautious about shocking the system with more than one back-to-back D+F right now. When new ATF goes in, it brings new additives, which may dissolve and loosen crud deposits, causing problems for your filter and system if too much breaks loose at once. You do have an external filter (like a Magnefine), right? If not, I'd definitely do that at the same time as your D+F.
 
#14 ·
I've been doing this for a couple of years now. I find it quick, clean and effective. We do summer towing with a boat or popup camper on my 2006 EX-L. I do this ATF change in September and in March; i.e. every 6 months. We went from HARD shifting to silky smooth shifting. Minimal cost. I use the Honda DW-1. I also stopped using cruise control in hilly driving sections to keep the trany from continually down shifting. Live and learn.
 
#11 ·
To be honest I have no idea when the last time the ATF was changed. I think I'll take your advice on this one since I have heard about the whole shocking the system thing. I have the socket wrench, funnel, car ramps, whole nine yards. Don't need a jack for this job. That's a pretty good idea though, just do another two changes for the next 2,000 miles, give the system some time to accommodate. I'm not sure if I have a filter, I'll check into the filter.
 
#12 ·
Does your generation Ody not have a dipstick? I just buy a case at a time. I do ATF same time as I do crankcase oil change (every 5k miles or so) until I run out of fluid. Then after the last ATF change, I do it all over in 30k miles. Just seems wasteful to do the flush all at one time.
 
#15 ·
Your philosophy on this seems similar to mine. So what do you think about modifying your 5 10 15 45 50 55 ... schedule (did I get that right) to one that has constant intervals?

You may need extra frequent changes at the beginning to clean things out if the car was neglected. But after that, figure out just how new/clean you want your fluid to be and change every __ miles (my answer is 10k for each 3-4 qt. D+F on my '99) at constant intervals. No need to do them more frequently and the wait 30k.

BTW, on my '99, the spec is for a D+F (3-4 qt) at 45k miles, then every 30k miles after that. The reason they go 45k at first is because the fluid is ALL new at that point = the one and only time that is true.
 
#17 ·
Well, don't drain it, drive it, THEN refill. That's certainly a good way to buy a new transmission.
 
#19 ·
After the first drain and fill, start the engine, let it warm up and check to see if the atf is between the marks on the dipstick and make it so. Driver the Ody until the atf is warm and you have gone into overdrive (tc lockup) and went through all the gears, including reverse. This is done to ensure that the new atf is totally mixed with the old atf. Recheck the atf level.
If it still looks too dark, etc do another drain in fill and repeat the above.
After that, I would probably drive somewhere from 500 -to 1000 miles and see how it is doing. If it is still not looking real good, do another one. If it looks fine, I would recommend checking it at least every 5k miles to see how it is doing.
Installing a magnefine filter is also a great idea and there are write-ups in these forum about how to do it.
The most important thing is to do the FIRST drain and fill and have the fluid at the proper level.
With 4 drain and fills you get around 88-90% new fluid.
With one drain and fill, you get around 40% new.
Buffalo4
Buffalo4
 
#21 ·
Just did a drain today and it went without a hitch. The fluid that came out was brown, indicating it needed some new fluid but it was not burnt, black, or smelly, which is very good!:flame:
I ended up using just 3 quarts to get it back up the the halfway point on the dipstick, 3.1 would not have hurt. Test drive went great, didn't go from 3rd to 4th gear yet but I will tomorrow morning. The van had more trouble getting from 2nd to 3rd gear before the drain anyways. Thanks for all the help!
 
#22 ·
I checked the level of the ATF today and found a confusing result. The level was over the max line by about 3/8 an inch or 1/4 an inch. The engine was at normal operating temperature but this doesn't make any sense to me. When I did the change I got out what looked like 3 quarts since it filled up half of a gallon jug. A change is supposed to empty 3.1 quarts in my car so all seemed normal. I put exactly 3 quarts back into the quart. The shifting is improved and no leaks have developed nor has the transmission made any odd noises. Should I even be concerned about this? Thanks,
 
#25 ·
Ok we just bout our odyssey about 2 months ago. It is a 01 with 131k miles. I am planning on doing the transmission fluid change this weekend. So the Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage DEX/MERC Automatic Transmission Fluid 1 Gallon - Walmart.com
is a good brand. I was a little worried after we bought the van ..finding out their Achilles tendon is the transmission. I have also noticed as others have mentioned that they have not had as many troubles with theirs. Hoping we are going to have the same luck lol.
If i do need a new transmission is there a preferred place to purchase one :)
 
#27 ·
Honda transmission: Never Flush. Just Drain & Refill.

Valvoline MaxLife or Amsoil are good choices. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, have for years with excellent results.

Every 30,000 miles is a great idea. What is less expensive....new tranny or new fluids???
 
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