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Battery light, brake light and all doors light flash

55K views 23 replies 14 participants last post by  Medic1216 
#1 ·
This has happened a few times the past several months. I'll be driving and will slow down to make a turn and the brake light, doors open light and battery light will come on for a second or two, then go back off.
I know this indicates an alternator issue if the lights stay on, but I'm not sure about that since it's an intermittent thing and the light doesn't stay on. I've also not had any issues with battery discharge while driving, which leads me to believe the alternator is fine.
It's a 2000 odyssey lx with 197k miles.
 
#2 · (Edited)
What a coincidence....our '03 started doing the same thing a couple of weeks ago as well. I'll add the dashboard lights dim when these warning lights go on. For everyone playing along at home, the dash looks like this when it happens:

(EDIT: Sorry, for some reason I can't add pictures today)

What's frustrating (yet intriguing) about this symptom is there is no error code.

I have not yet solved it. I'm going to replace battery cables and then move on to the alternator. There was an old service bulletin at one time that made reference to 'fan circuit noise' and suggested alternator replacement (I'll attach this service bulletin pdf is someone can let me know how or turn on access):

Export Service Bulletin
 2003 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved XTB 25098 (0304) 1 of 1
April 2003
03-902
Applies To: 2002 Odyssey – ALL
Charging System, Door, and Brake Light Indicators Come on While Driving
SYMPTOM The charging system, door monitors, and brake light indicators simultaneously turn on and off while driving.
PROBABLE CAUSE Electrical noise coming from the cooling fan circuit causes the indicators to flicker momentarily. NOTE: This electrical noise does not affect the alternator’s output, nor apply to any other alternator problem.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the alternator.
PARTS INFORMATION Alternator: P/N 31100-PGK-A03
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 118100 Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour Failed Part: P/N 31100-PGK-A02 Defect Code: 067 Contention Code: B02
REPAIR PROCEDURE Replace the alternator (see the 1999–03 Odyssey Shop Manual).


When mine happened the first time, I was driving during the evening with headlights. If the charging system hadn't been working correctly that night I certainly would have run out of battery charge in a few miles and would have been stranded (I made it home and there doesn't seem to be a charging problem). So the mention above re the charging not being affected holds true according to my experience so far.

I running on an aftermarket alternator that is only 2 years old but I can't remember which brand (I think it was a white-label from AutoZone). If I do move on to replacing it, I'll go back to Denso or shop for the replacement P/N mentioned in this service bulletin.

I'll keep updating this thread.
 

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#3 ·
I can see how worn-out alternator brushes could cause those problems, for both cases.

I know often worn-out brushes somehow make alternators fail completely vs. intermittently, but your descriptions make sense as the failing brush is just at its limit.
 
#5 ·
The brush is easy to replace with basic tools and costs about $40 from the dealer or you can get one from an alternator/starter repair shop even cheaper albeit lower quality. I replaced the brush on my wife's alternator and brushes and solenoid on the starter. I hate aftermarket or rebuilt starters/alternators.
Whole process took me about an hour and half from start to finish.

Here is a video, not mine but he covers different alternators.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CImyX5KuGvQ
 
#7 ·
Should you decide on pulling out your alternator, I suggest testing/checking its components with a multi meter before getting an aftermarket one. If its the original denso, I am sure that the brushes are close to its service limit. Except for the bearings, everything else is very easy to remove.

Here is a link on how I fully rebuilt my original denso alternator '99 ody @ 203K. Compressor pulley has side to side play . The alternator is running great so far - after 5 months/6K and a 600 mile trip. Even now with the AC always on full blast since May.
 
#8 ·
nitely2...Thank you for the link on your rebuild. If I would have had more time and my original alternator I would have given a rebuild a shot.

As it turns out, my alternator which was only replaced 2 years ago was only putting out 10.9 volts: Speedometer Measuring instrument Gauge Auto part Tachometer


I decided to replace the alternator with (what I hope is an OEM replacement) the DENSO 2100469 (210-0469) rather than messing with my cables. Sure enough, it now puts out 13.4V consistently, even with my original battery/ground cables. I still don't know what failed internally that lowered output. Since I haven't returned the core yet maybe I'll see if a bench test can ID the failed alternator component.
 
#11 · (Edited)
nitely2... I still don't know what failed internally that lowered output. Since I haven't returned the core yet maybe I'll see if a bench test can ID the failed alternator component.
Probably one or more of the diodes dead. I would open up the back of the original alternator (By simply unscrewing a few small nuts and bolts.) and ohm check the rectifier, with a multi meter. Also check the voltage regulator and the thickness of the brushes. Might as well check and lightly sand the slip ring. Good luck.

BTW, don't take it to AZ for a bench test. Just do it yourself. They seem to do more harm than good on their testing equipment.
 
#10 ·
Thanks sonntake!

So what I'd like to figure out for future reference: The first time my alternator failed, the check engine idiot light came on about 10 minutes before running out of juice completely. This time the lights came on as noted but continued to run. There must be a difference? (I wish we had a Honda electrical engineer on the forum to detail what this combination of warning lights indicates)
 
#12 ·
when you get red ALTnator light (might have battery symbol on it), it means the battery is not charging and most likely the fault would be with the charging system. now depending upon how good your battery is, the run time after dead alternator would depend upon that.

It is unfortunate that automakers did not select alternator symbol for that red light but 99% of the driver have no idea how it even looks.
 
#13 ·
My 2002 Odyssey with 275K miles has had the battery/brake/door lights intermittently flash on/off for several years. Just today, the lights turned on solid for several car starts. They turned off once while driving, but other times stayed on solid. I drove at night with lights on for several miles and the car was OK.

A couple of items - I think there's a whining noise that you can hear at low engine speeds and a slight burnt smell in the engine compartment when running. The belts are running OK. When I moved the van into the garage, the lights did not stay on. I checked the battery voltage when the car was running - 12.24 V.

I'm assuming this is an alternator problem - maybe it's on its way out - and I should get it checked shortly before I'm stranded? I've never replaced the alternator.

Thanks
 
#16 ·
My aftermarket alternator is going after only few months :-( It started with random short flashes of redlight (door ajar/brake/batt) but during the 1000 mile round trip, it progressively started coming on more often than not. Hooking up digital gauge on the accessory plug confirmed that alternator does stop charging when the lights come on.

Knowing little bit about the ELD and the specific behavior, I turned on the headlight all the way for the return 500 mile journey. I believe every time ELD was instructing the alternator to start charging again, I suspect it is having trouble restarting the output. Revving up the engine would turn off all the red lights. The lights used to come often randomly when I had my feet off the gas and lightly touching brake.

When the shop put this aftermarket alternator, he was not too happy about it but his supplier did not have his normal brand in stock. Hopefully, it should be warranted.
 
#17 ·
I have a similar problem is says that all my doors are open in cluding the hatch the brake lamp light is on passenger seat belt light stays on and the traction control light is on the transmission is acting weird and this all happened after shutting the car off for 5 minutes does anyone have any ideas on this?
 
#19 ·
This is an alternator problem. I had similar issue slowly develop over last couple of years. It was intermittent at first (once every few months) and then it became more frequent (once every few weeks). I pulled alternator out of the van and had it tested at AutoZone. It failed the test. Had alternator replaced and problem went away
 
#20 ·
i have a 2010 Honda and this thing has gremlins, i replaced alternator twice and still battery light occasionally comes on for a second or two and back off. i was wondering if its not the alternator and some device called ELD (electronic Load Sensor ) which tewlls the alternator to shut on or off . im wondering if this could be the problem , but i have no trouble codes just an occasional check gas cap also goes on occasionally
 
#21 ·
What brand of alternator did you use? If it's of the white-label auto parts store type, it WILL fail prematurely or cause problems like you've described.

I'm not sure which brand was OE in 2010, but Denso is OE for 2nd Gen Odys. Only use the OE brand or rebuild.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
#23 ·
This has happened a few times the past several months. I'll be driving and will slow down to make a turn and the brake light, doors open light and battery light will come on for a second or two, then go back off.
I know this indicates an alternator issue if the lights stay on, but I'm not sure about that since it's an intermittent thing and the light doesn't stay on. I've also not had any issues with battery discharge while driving, which leads me to believe the alternator is fine.
It's a 2000 odyssey lx with 197k miles.
I’m just now having this problem after replacing the alternator and replacing the battery
Hope you found the problem if not I’ll get back to you soon with a answer mechanics lie to up charge so I usually fix it my self I believe it’s the terminals the belt I put on was already there when I changed the alternator you should change them when you change the alternator I didn’t I also moved a cable that connects to the trottle for acceleration so it would idle until I figured that out then put the cable back but I had losen a nut to make the van idle even less so I will also tighten that back up to see if that makes a difference sorry for the long reply just mentioned these things becuase maybe you moved or touched something as well it happens good luck
 
#24 ·
This has happened a few times the past several months. I'll be driving and will slow down to make a turn and the brake light, doors open light and battery light will come on for a second or two, then go back off.
I know this indicates an alternator issue if the lights stay on, but I'm not sure about that since it's an intermittent thing and the light doesn't stay on. I've also not had any issues with battery discharge while driving, which leads me to believe the alternator is fine.
It's a 2000 odyssey lx with 197k miles.
I am having a similar problem. I have replaced the battery, the starter, the alternator, the tensioner, the belt, and the removable/adjustable alternator bracket. It drives a lot better. But I still get the intermittent door ajar, and battery light. When I turn on or off the AC it stops. And it only turns on once in a while, when I am stopped at the traffic light. My first impression is AC compressor problems, but the ac still runs nice and cold. Any ideas?
 
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