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2002 EXL AC Noise making me nuts!

9K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  retiredodyssey 
#1 ·
My 2002 EXL Odyssey (54K) has recently (within the last 2 months) started to make a noise on the front passenger side dash that can best be described as a clicking or AC port trying repeatedly to close but not closing. We always run the AC in FULL AUTO mode so as you know, the system adjusts the fan speed and flow of the AC through the different AC zones (feet, dash, feet & dash, and so on). To make a long story short, when the system makes these adjustments, certain valves close (when the air is being redirected), and the sound is almost like those redirections (or port closings/openings) are struggling and not fully setting. So, we continuously hear what I call reattempts at port closings (redirections) and it's about to drive me over the edge (these occur every second). I took it to the dealer today, and I guess they didn't feel like looking at it because they said they couldn't recreate the noise.

Has anyone experienced these noises and what can be done to stop it. Thanks for your time.
 
#2 ·
The ports you are talking about are called "blend doors". To figure out which blend door is making noise, try manually operating the A/C blend doors. You will have to manually select the different A/C zones. Repeatedly go through the zones then see which position makes noise then, off to your dealer to show them what you found.
 
#3 ·
gomst1

Thanks for the info. I tried doing this but didn't really spend too much time on it. I took the system out of FULL AUTO mode by hitting the A/C button, then toggling through all the positions with the MODE button. I will give it another go tomorrow. At first try, it appeared to make the noise no matter what the MODE. I will spend more time on it and post my results. Thanks for the reply.
 
#4 ·
Update ... I spent more time on it and found that the noise is coming from what apears to be a "blending door" assembly under the passenger side dash. There is a long plastic black box in which I'm sure there is a fan of some sort that is making contact with either a wire or insulation. There is a hand latch that I can open, but without removing the dash, I'm affraid I can't get to the guts of the assembly box. I'm taking the van to the dealer again on Monday.

I managed to isolate the noise after discovering that the noise continues to occur even when the A/C unit is completely OFF. So if I simply get in the van, turn the key to position II without going to position III, and the A/C unit is completely off, you can hear this ticking noise under the passenger dash close to the floor. Not having the van running, or the A/C on made it very easy to isolate the noise.

My guess is that it will cost me a fortune for them to get to the guts of the assembly box only to find a piece of insulation or something making contact with a fan.

Does anyone know of this assembly box that I'm talking about?
 
#5 ·
I believe that you are speaking of your blower motor. Probably just some leaves stuck in the cage inside it. If you are handy you can remove it yourself by disconnecting the electrical connector and removing the blower mounting screws.
 
#6 ·
Found the problem. Under the passenger dash kind of near the center of the dash, there is a about a 2.5 to 3 inch black disk looking mechanism that actually pulls the cable that operates the blending doors. It also has an electrical connector attached. When I removed the electrical connector, the noise stops. I could physically see/feel the unit working in symphony with the noises I was hearing. The black disk mechanism has 3 screws which when removed drops the black disk mechanism somewhat, but it is still attached to the pully cord by a white plastic lever.

There is another white plastic level that is not attached to the black disk mechanism, that is attached to another pully cable. This white plastic lever has a track for the cable end that is attached to the white plastic lever on the black disk mechanism, so that when one lever turns it turns the other lever.

After looking at the black disck mechanism (still attached) for a while, I replaced the 3 screws. What I'm not sure of, is if I positioned it properly so that the uppler level meets the black disk mechanisms lever.

I have gone through all the zones, and they appear to this non technical person to be working fine.

One thing I do know is that the noise has stopped.

So my gut feel is that I didn't replace it properly.

Does anyone have experience with this black disk mechanism that I describing?
 
#7 ·
Another user directed me to this thread as I have the same issue. I was wondering if your problem ever came back or if you have an update.

I took mine to the dealer this weekend for other service and they said this part was $350 plus $90 labor to fix it. They suggested to my wife to live with the noise and save some money if it doesn't bother her.
 
#8 ·
Well, I eneded up pulling the unit out and fiddling with it for a while then put it back. The noise stopped for about 3 weeks, then started up again. It is nerve racking. I was going to try to pull it out again and use WD40 this time to see if that lasts longer. I was told by the dealer that I may have something in one of the vents or blower that is causing the unit to constantly try to close or reposition the blending doors.

Sometimes I have resulted to setting the temperature, then reaching down and unplugging the unit to make the noise stop. I have figured out that this unit appears to be related to the automatic thermostat. So if you unplug the unit, it appears that you are unable to adjust the temperature with the climate control knob. So this too is unacceptable. Let me know what you found out. Do you have a picture of your unit? I'm going to work on it this weekend and take a picture of it to see if anyone knows anything. Sometimes a picture describes the problem better than I can with words.
 
#12 ·
Unfortunately I wasn't with my wife when she picked up the van the other day from the dealer so I don't know what they said the part was... just the price to fix it. My guess is a salvage yard would be the place to find one cheap. I'll probably wait until it completely goes out though.
 
#13 ·
If you can't find one at the junkyard, would it be possible to rig a manual choke cable to the door? Then you'd lose the automatic temperature control, but it would be manually adjustable. Probably cost about $25.

-Stew

When doing it right is not an option. Repeat after me: Duct Tape, Baling Wire, WD40, Silcone caulk... Duct Tape, Baling .... ;)
 
#15 ·
Help removing the blower / motor

Read the threads and you guys made it sound so easy that I had to give it a try.

I spent almost an hour and a half under there and only got two of the TORX screws off. I can't get into a position where I can get the third one in the back off!

I even removed the plastic filler fuse box to get more room.

Is there a trick in doing it or am I just too big and awkward to do it?

Help?!?
:frown:
 
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