Transmission issue I have not seen covered previously...... - Page 2

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Thread: Transmission issue I have not seen covered previously......

  1. #16
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    EDIT: to sum up - WOULD DO AGAIN!! I adore these cars. Hondas in general. I would absolutely hands down rebuild another and another. Working on a german car right now and it sickens me. Doesn't matter, I'd prob do that again too - but the Honda YES!! [/edit]

    Yeah I did my 4 speed B7TA (2000 Ody) back in November roughly. Never done a trans before either. I just dove into it. Only thing people screw up royally is not having an input shaft holder. Aside from that, you have the manual obviously, and that's the only reference I used.

    I had all kinds of time, I didn't need the car running. I bought it broken. So I pulled the tranny, inspected everything, ordered ONLY what I needed, and that was that. I was buttoned up with upgrades for a little over $550? - ish?? I outlined in several posts some of my upgrades and pricing and everything. There are good deals to be had, but I chose to go with OEM frictions and steels. But really Raybestos GPX (?) are prob quite good too. I don't know who makes the gearspeed frictions, but they're prob ok too for the balance of the service life of the vehicle. Or if not... so another 160K miles maybe you rebuild the trans again... that would still be a helluva deal. Master Gearspeed Overhaul Kit: 1999-2001 Honda Odyssey (B7TA/B7YA) I had seriously contemplated this... but again, I ended up going OEM from Majestic Honda.

    The input holder is pricey. Dad made it for me, I had to modify it a bit from the intended design, but it was nothing too drastic.

    Removing the trans from the car itself is not an insignificant part of the job. The trans itself is doable... small parts washer or a bucket and a few strainers from the dollar store, some chip brushes (don't use the plastic brushes, use actual chip brushes), totally doable. Trans removal, if at all possible, remove the exhaust. It will make the job a breeze. I didn't want to remove the exhaust, the rusted cat converter nuts were essentially lumps of rust. no way I was touching that... I can deal with it, just didn't feel like it at the time. So I paid the price in heavy lifting instead. I removed the trans myself... I mean, all by myself squeezed into the dr side wheelwell, birthing a whale calf from an unwilling shrimp. lol

    Anyways, if you're interested I did a photo dump in this album.

    Maybe one day I'll put together a writeup as best as I can.

    I'll do my best to assist, but really the job is in your hands once you start. As for how long... like I said, I wasn't concerned about time. I did my inspection, waited a week or two for parts... did cleaning, assembly. I don't know, I can look at the date stamps on the photos in my phone, but I wanna say 3 weeks total.
    Last edited by bbarbulo; 02-16-2017 at 02:49 AM.

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  3. #17
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    oh yeah, you asked what part of the trans is 'most' at fault.

    i think in your case, you have a complete fluid blockage of the filter or the mesh strainers in the valve body (there are two strainers in addition to the filter). I suspect your filter is so plugged that it's shredded from pressure. And some of that filter media has prob made it's way to the strainers. I would also really carefully check your pump clearances to ensure you get adequate pressure once you reassemble. thousands of an inch make the difference between a strong pump and one that is barely adequate.

    last but not least, and this is more for failures that are really spotty and intermittent - the valve bodies. I can't say enough about this kit. I don't know how the car shifted before, but man - this kit... the car was incredible!!! Flawless shifting.


    And I went with a Sonnax O-ring end cap kit, just to prevent any chance of pressure loss to leakage out from the valve body. Not critical, but the price was nice from rockauto and I couldn't resist a little more 'upgrade'.

    Also, torque converter replacement is a must. I don't know why, but that's what everyone and all literature says. So I did it. In my case, given random broken parts inside the trans that were NOT from the trans, I expect it was from the TC.

  4. #18
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    So , I have the trouble codes from the van, and they do not look like the codes I have seen posted by others on this site. I will list them below, and thanks Bbarulo for your responses to this post ,they have been very helpful.

    Here is what the obd2 showed...

    0 DTC

    All of them ,except the first one (0 DTC) also had a abs indicator on as well as the code.

    I do not know what to make of it, as I have not seen these codes listed anywhere in my searches.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated, even if the codes do not relate to my transmission problems.


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  6. #19
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Honda Check Engine Light (CEL) / ECU Codes by ZealAutowerks

    I don't know if these help you at all.

    Is there any way you can get your hands on even a $40 code reader? Harbor Freight usually has them cheap, and they do the job. Those tools, while leaving a lot to be desired, will at least read the correct P codes. This almost sounds like the tool is not actually communicating to the ECU but rather grounding the OBD connector pins and then counting the pulses of the check engine light. But the thing is, some of those aren't even codes... like 24 and 32 I guess aren't actual codes, so that puts the whole list at question.

    I don't want to spend too much time chasing these down, I flipped through the service manual and I don't see those as being helpful.

    No prob, I'm happy to help someone willing to do the work.

  7. #20
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Can I be the ahole of this forum and just categorically state that if your vehicle has check engine light and you do not even have the inclination to own $20 code reader, just do not bother asking help here.

  8. #21
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Ottawa, Canada
    These look like ABS DTC's. They could explain the TCS light being on.

    Code 61 is low battery voltage. This computerized van needs a strong battery to function correctly. Have the battery checked.

    That said, I don't see how a bad battery could make your van not move in any direction. However, I would try anything before plunging into a transmission rebuild.

    2002 Odyssey EX Fern (Granite) Green
    Honda hood protector, stainless steel flex brake lines, Honda block heater, AC condenser screen, Zymol wax
    141,000 miles/227,000 kilometres; original transmission; Amsoil MV ATF since 79,000 miles/127,000 kilometres; Magnefine aux ATF filter; Honda aux ATF cooler; 18 drain and fills

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