Replacement of center roller on sliding door on an EX or LX
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Thread: Replacement of center roller on sliding door on an EX or LX

  1. #1
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    Replacement of center roller on sliding door on an EX or LX

    I replaced the center roller on the passenger side sliding door today.

    Symptoms were 'jerkiness' when opening and closing. I originally thought it was dirt on the bottom rail... but there was no improvement on cleaning.

    The broken roller is visible if you look at the hinge on the back of the door. (see the picture on post#5 below to get an idea of what you are looking for)

    Tools required:
    10 and 12mm sockets. Long socket extension. (probably 6" or more)
    phillips screwdriver
    grease for rails
    EX Part # 72520-S0X-A53 (passenger side)
    EX Part # 72560-S0X-A53 (driver's side)
    LX Part # 72520-S0X-A03 (passenger side) (thanks to Odyclub member 'Extreme' for LX part no's)
    LX Part # 72560-S0X-A03 (driver's side)

    In Canada, each part was about $90Cdn + tax. I understand it is about $50US. Go figure....
    I just did the passenger side.


    Time required -
    * For an EX (electric sliding doors) 1.5 hrs without knowing quite what I was doing. Would probably be 45 minutes next time. The major difficulty is loosening the drive cables that are used by the motor to open and close the door.
    * for an LX (non-electric sliding doors) - you guys have it easy: maybe 20 minutes.

    Steps:
    1) remove rear brake light & turn signal light assembly by prying open two small plastic access ports and removing two phillips screws. The whole assembly pulls straight back - it takes a bit of effort. (picture below is the passenger side)

    (edited 22 Oct '07 to add LX directions)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by rtw_travel; 10-22-2007 at 03:54 PM.

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  3. #2
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    2) Open the door part way (for EX owners, press the door open button, and then turn door switch off from the control panel (left of the steering wheel) when door is partway open. ) Remove two phillips screws on the small body panel that covers the rail. Remove one bolt from the front of the same panel.

    Panel slides back about two inches and then pulls off exposing the rail.

    Note - this picture shows the door closed - I had to go to the dealer to buy the part at this point!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by rtw_travel; 01-06-2008 at 09:56 PM.

  4. #3
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    3) Support the door - particularly at the back. I used my jack with a 2x4 and a towel to protect the paint. The nice thing about the jack is that it is easy to adjust the height when you reinstall everything.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by rtw_travel; 06-01-2006 at 01:46 AM.

  5. #4
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    4) ~For EX model (i.e. electric doors) only ~

    Outside the van, use a felt pen of some kind to trace around where the roller assembly mounts onto the inside of the door (this is used for alignment when you put the new one in).

    Inside of the van, remove or at least pull back slightly the interior side panel beween the sliding door and trunk. You need to loosen the door drive cable inside the car only enough so you can remove the cables from the roller on the outside off the car. (this is about a quarter turn clockwise). Directions here:
    Sliding Door Rail Cover Removal In particular, see step 5.

    Unhook cables & remove the roller assembly.

    4) ~For LX model (i.e. non-electric doors) only ~

    Use a felt pen of some kind to trace around where the roller assembly mounts onto the inside of the door (this is used for alignment when you put the new one in).

    Remove the roller assembly.

    (Edited 22 Oct '07 for LX directions.)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by rtw_travel; 10-29-2007 at 02:12 PM.

  6. #5
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    This is the broken roller assembly. Look on the left side and you'll see one of the rollers is missing. (the one remaining roller is some kind of creamy yellow coloured plastic )

    Now that you know what you are looking for, you can see if it is broken by looking at it in place. i.e. You can tell if you need to do the replacement or not.


    Reassembly is reverse of removal.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by rtw_travel; 06-02-2006 at 01:58 AM.

  7. #6
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    Posts like this one are what make wading through the trash worth it.

    Thank you VERY much.

  8. #7
    Registered User acrane76's Avatar
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    I think a sticky might be in order for this one! Thanks a lot!
    2002 Honda Odyssey EX

  9. #8
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    Found it (obviously ) and printed it out. My van is gone to my B-I-L 's shop today, but it's not looking like he will have time to fix it, so I will ask my husband if he and his brother or my dad can fix it themselves, or if he still wants me to take it to the dealer (not what I want to do, but I'm not the one who has to fix it-just the part go-getter ). There is a thread here about replacing the driver's side power door center roller, and it addresses the cable issue, but I sent all my print outs with my van and I don't have a clue where it was (included pictures, though).It did show up in my search, though. If you don't find it by the time I get my van back, I will post it here.

  10. #9
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    Redid my search and here it is:

    Sliding Door Rail Cover Removal

    This says how to do the cables, but since I know almost nothing about this repair, you will have to judge for yourself .Hope it helps!

  11. #10
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    Yes - that't it. Here is the picture from that thread where you would loosen the cables. Thanks. I'll edit the text in previous posts for posterity.


  12. #11
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    I regularly lube the pivot. Now that I know there are two rollers there, I will lube those too. Very helpful posting.

    - Dave
    2002 Odyssey EX Fern (Granite) Green
    Honda hood deflector, mud guards, AC condenser screen mod, Zyml wax, Amsoil Ea15KO20 oil filter, Amsoil synthetic 5W20, Krown rustproofing, block heater (gets cc...cold in Canada in winter!)
    Original transmission at 121,000 miles/195,000 km, Amsoil ATF since 79,000 miles/127,000 km, Honda aux ATF cooler, Magnefine aux ATF filter, 16 ATF drain & fills

  13. #12
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    Excellent. I have the same problem.
    I have to go away for a week, but I'm hoping to attack the problem when I get back.
    Thanks for the detailed report.

  14. #13
    cnn
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    The key thing when doing this job

    Originally posted by BlackKnight
    Excellent. I have the same problem.
    I have to go away for a week, but I'm hoping to attack the problem when I get back.
    Thanks for the detailed report.
    is to support the sliding door.

    Without a floor jack, you can make some lumber (2 x 6) etc., use soft towel at the bottom of the door to prevent scratching the paint.

    Otherwise straightforward job.

    Not sure why Honda put such cheap quality roller in an otherwise great van.

    ? Job security.
    cnn: 2007 Odyssey LX

  15. #14
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    I went to do it. It was pouring. So I quickly put a towel on the jack and supported the door until it just relieved the pressure on the roller. I then unmounted the old hinged roller and was actually able to slide the new one up and in and mount it - carefully.

    BINGO!

    Much easier than I thought it would be and didn't remove anything other than the old hinged roller. Which was QUITE toast and I can see doing this preventatively on the other door.

    Now I need to figure out why the power door locks keep opening and closing by themselves like Poltergeists have invaded the van. Lovely. Have to say, long term ownership of this van has been a major PITA. Yet, she loves it.

  16. #15
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    That's interesting.

    There was no friggin' way that I could take the old hinged roller off without doing something to give me slack on the cables. Even cursing a blue streak didn't help. The tight cables turned a 20 minute job into a 1 hour job.

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