[OdyinNH]

Hmm, since I sealed mine I think I've only seen the code once. I kinda forgot about it seeing it's been so long since it came on.

 

[dudester7]

I guess I am the unlucky one. I am going to pressure test the line and see where the leak is and go from there...

 

[sinbad]

Got the check engine light. Ran the scan function on my trusty ScanGuage. Got code 1456. Checked the ODY forum. Inspected the gas cap and it was *ever* so slightly loose. Tightened gas cap. Used the "clear codes" in ScanGuage. Warning light went out. No remove fuse #9; No battery disconnect.

Thanks, ODY forum. Thanks, ScanGuage.

 

[OdyinNH]

My Scangauge has paid for itself a couple times over. I really like the new small ones though. If mine ever breaks I'll get the new style.

 

[Davidng]

clean the 'EVAP Cannister' with your air com. some old xx honda 'Haynes manual' show you how to do that with air com. working on the Cannister Purge Valve "test the valve and clean by read that book.

how the EVAP Cannister do read the HSM.

 

[Davidng]

Do this!!!

clean your ody 'EVAP Cannister' with your air com. 1 a year... if it test good some old xx honda 'Haynes manual' show you how to do that with air com. working on the Cannister Purge Valve "test the valve and clean by read that book. (looking this book on your local A.P. 70 & 80 honda show it)

how the EVAP Cannister do read the HSM. It look like an air & fuel ctrl. filter

 

[authorized1]

evap system component locations

I didn't see see this posted so I added it to the thread.

 

[cht]

Check This

My sister had an 2000 odyssey with the evap code. There is a valve on the canister. Where the bolt holding the valve on. Over time that get crack and valve not seating tight. Change that valve an have not have any code came back since. Over 4 years now. Good luck. I would not go back to the dealer that tells you the light on is ok to drive and not to wory about it.D

 

[mrdabog]

i've seen quite a handful of ody's AND pilots with P1456 evap codes and after performing a 'smoke test' with the canister vent solenoid shut - witnessed the smoke come out of the filler neck.-just my experience...take it fwiw.

 

[slui]

Yes, I totally understand your frustration as I went through it myself, because the metal part is not too easy to get loose. I used a piece of hex key with some paper towel backing to push at the metal piece so as to get it loose, took me more than 1/2 hr of heaving and pushing really hard, but the good thing is that although it is very tight, there are no adhesives to permanently glue the metal piece to the plastic piece, so it will come loose eventually. You could monitor your progress by examining the location of the metal clips with respect to the plastic. Just try your best, it should move little by little as you find something to push the metal piece away from the plastic. If you need more room to work, just jack up the van a few inches. I really welcome any suggestions to remove the metal piece more easily...

After I applied the gasket maker, I couldn't get all the metal clips to snap back probably because I probably applied too much gasket maker...

However, I think the gasket maker has adhesive properties, so it should be fine. It is just that I will probably never be able to remove the metal piece again with all the gasket maker that I applied. I think Honda designed this part very very poorly and the only people that got hurt are us…

This may help folks in the future...

1) To help remove the metal filler tube (step 6 from osucool) I screwed the old gas cap and used a vise-grip tool on the cap to get more leverage. I also disconnected the metal ground strap bent it out of the way and taped the corner tab (on the plastic tube) that holds the ground strap to avoid breaking it when pulling the metal tube part. I put a few drops of oil through the openings where the filler tube tabs bend to make it easier for it to slide out. I reattached the filler tube as shown in don leroy's picture before pulling.

Will report later if the fix from osucool works... My CEL (code 1546) lights up about 3 or 4 days after I get it reset. I'm on day 2 now...

I wish to thank all forum members for the info in here - it has saved many $$$ and I've learned so much about my 2000 Ody EX (147K miles)!

 

[yawning_dog]

Same code

1st post.... We have a 2000 Honda Odyssey EX with 129K. My wife was filling up today and she claimed that the pump kept clicking off at around $14 (what's that about 2 gallons worth?). She couldn't get any more gas in so she gave up and there's about a 1/4 tank now. When she started the car she then said the check engine light was on with a helicopter picture (the picture of an engine on the light). I thought that was kind of funny.

Anyway, that was today and tonight I checked and have the P1456 code. The code and the fuel fill problem could be a coincidence happening together but I sort of doubt it. Does anyone have any thoughts what sort of failure would cause the gas pump to click off and also this code to happen? I sort of thought that the seal on the gas pump detects increasing pressure in the gas tank as the tank is filled. But I thought P1456 was caused by a tank that failed to hold pressure? Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[New Dad New Van]

The P1456 code is a leak in the area from the EVAP Cannister Purge Valve all the way back to the fuel filler cap. Most common culprits of the P1456 is a faulty fuel filler cap (or not tightening the cap at least 3 clicks after fuelling), a leak at the base where the fuel filler tube meets the gas tank or the area around the fuel pump on top of the gas tank. Leaks in these locations can cause a vaccuum leak and the P1456 code. If you smell fuel, I advise you to get it repaired ASAP.

Also check for a bad EVAP Canister Purge Valve.

 

[jolarjos]

I know it's late but thank you guys for this thread . I was able to fix mine 2003 Odyssey EX with 106,700 miles on it. No more engine light on and no gas smell too. Here's the attachment.

 

[jolarjos]

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.563668586984397.126026.100000237819573&type=1

 

[joemooch]

'01 with 120K. osucool and dudester7 were right, it works!!! CEL P1456, did the gas cap with some old Permatex, no good. 10 days ago, tried Permatex HIGH TACK gasket sealant # 80062...so far, so good, light went out immediately. Hard to get that gooey stuff only on the outside of the cap insert, so little if any attaches to the inside of the filler neck.

 

[joemooch]

Rats...the 1456 returned and smells of fuel near the filler. Will try the bubbles check. The gasket is likely still good, but who knows?

 

[paramount]

2000 Ody LX with 131K miles. Got the P1456 code. Gas cap looks OK (for what that's worth). I planned to do the form-a-gasket operation at the fuel filler junction. However, I was not able to pry out the metal tabs (step 5 of osucool's procedure). They stick deeply into the plastic/rubber material of the tube, and getting them out would maul them irreparably, along with the tube. I decided not to go further since I am not at all sure that this is the source of the leak. Has anyone considered replacing the entire run of tubing to the tank as an alternative? I know that would be tougher, as there would be more of an issue of dealing with a fuel spill.

 

[joemooch]

Perhaps...but the filler is $233 plus ship. If that isn't the problem, well..............
Get a $10 gas cap to eliminate it.
The tabs are very difficult to pry. I used a curved pik and did beat-up the metal, but the sealant will take up the gaps.
My Honda mech says don't worry about the code, unless you see fuel or smell lots of vapor. Was told to take off the fuel pump access as the pump could be a source. The code is a big money maker for the dealer.
I still haven't got to the real leak yet, but it's time to do a close inspection under and around.

 

[paramount]

Update on my situation: I cleared the code and went on with my life, did no repair, and so far the CEL hasn't come back on. Maybe I just didn't tighten the gas cap properly one time.

 

[OdyinNH]

Mine was dependent on temperature, how much gas was in the tank and how the van was sitting. During the summer at half a tank I could get it to set going through the drive through at a particular Dunkin' Donuts that had a small incline. I haven't seen the code since siliconing the filler neck.