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Unofficial 2001 Odyssey Thread

304K views 257 replies 100 participants last post by  eksine 
#1 · (Edited)
I thought I would start a thread dedicated to the 2001 model since I know already that I will have this vehicle for a long time. I have visited Odyclub religiously for 7 years since I bought the Odyssey. I thought I would jot down some of the things I have learned in one thread to help others save time.

Feel free to add anything related to the 2001 model or just say hello if you are a 2001 owner.

Extended Warranty on Automatic Transmission (TSB 02-062) – A higher than normal incidence of transmissions have defects in material and workmanship and warranty is extended to 7 yrs 9 months (93 months) or 109,000 miles (175,000 kms) which ever comes first. Ensure ATF lines and fittings are flushed of debris before installing the remanufactured transmission. The remanufactured transmission has new inside components with a used casing. An external filter should be installed in the ATF return line, under the battery. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A02-062.PDF

Extended Warranty on Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) (TSB 05-026) – 8 yrs/84,000 miles (135,000kms) In some vehicles, the EGR system can become contaminated or clogged. If this happens, then the vehicle will surge or hesitate during light acceleration and the MIL may come on with DTC codes P0401 of P1491. The repair involves replacing the EGR valve and reaming the port and installing a Teflon sleeve to reduce future clogging. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A05-026.PDF

Seatbelt Lifetime Warranty (applies only in USA).

Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) issued by Honda relating to a repair to a common problem for the 2001:

TSB 03-013 Rear Brakes Groan When Coming to a Stop – replace rear brake drums. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A03-013.PDF
TSB 01-096 Rear Wiper Arm Is Loose – clean splines on shaft and install new flange nut. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A01-096.PDF
TSB 03-052 Buzzing From The Alternator – replace the alternator/drive belt. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A03-052.PDF
TSB 03-073 MIL Is On With DTC P0420 – the catalytic converter has deteriorated. Normal warranty period for the CC is 8 years/80,000 miles (130,000 kms). http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A03-073.PDF
TSB 04-007 Idle Fluctuation With DTC P1129 – the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is faulty. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A04-007.PDF
TSB 04-029 Hesitation Or Surging Between 30 And 60 MPH - replace faulty EGR valve. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A04-029.PDF
TSB 03-022 Remote Audio Controls Do Not Work Properly – dimple the copper shield on the steering wheel ball bearing to create a better ground connection. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A03-022.PDF
TSB 07-012 General Info And Troubleshooting For Music Link (for Ipod). http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A07-012.PDF
TSB 99-080 Roof Rack End Covers Are Missing – replace covers and clips. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A99-080.PDF
TSB 03-001 MIL Comes On With DTC P1457: EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure – replace the EVAP solenoid valve and ECM/PCM, if necessary. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A03-001.PDF
TSB 99-065 Inaccurate Odyssey Fuel Gauge – replace the fuel gauge sending unit. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A99-065.PDF
TSB 01-009 V6 Engine Oil Leaks – depending on location of leaks, seal with JB Weld. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A01-009.PDF
TSB 06-030 Idle Vibration Or Harsh Shifting – replace the front hydraulic engine mount. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A06-030.PDF
TSB 02-048 Noise From Under The Dashboard While Driving Between 50 and 56 MPH – replace the PCM with the appropriate counter-measured part. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A02-048.PDF
TSB 00-064 Deformed Windshield Molding – remove the entire inner lip and fill the entire channel between the molding and the body with silicone sealant. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A00-064.PDF
TSB 02-056 Weak Tailgate Struts – replace tailgate struts if leaking or can compress by hand. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A02-056.PDF
TSB 01-020 Power Sliding Door Does Not Close Completely – align the sliding door and junction switch, replace the faulty remote control switch, or replace the faulty closer motor-latch assembly. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A01-020.PDF
TSB 99-072 Sliding Door Alarm Beeps – adjust sliding doors, replace/align the body and junction door switch, improve ground connection, repair one or more wires in the sliding door system, replace one or more connector terminals in the sliding door control unit harness, replace sliding door latch assembly, or replace the sliding door control unit. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A99-072.PDF
TSB 02-071 Rattle From The Sliding Doors – replace the sliding door sub-seal. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A02-071.PDF
TSB 99-028 Power Sliding Door(s) Do Not Work And DTC 25 Is Set – repair loose or poor grounds, replace the door and body junction switches and align sliding door. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A99-028.PDF
TSB 04-039 Buzzing From The Front Blower Motor – remove debris from blower unit and motor, replace the blower motor if necessary, apply foam to the wiper motor post clearance holes, reinstall the windshield cowl top using new seals. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A04-039.PDF
TSB 01-097 Clock Light Does Not Work – replace the clock illumination bulb. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A01-097.PDF
TSB 00-082 Third Row Seat Cushion Will Not Unlatch – reattach the cable attached to the handle and install retaining clips onto the handle. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A00-082.PDF
TSB 03-062 Seat Belt Slow To Retract – clean seatbelt guide with soap and water or isopropyl alcohol. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A03-062.PDF
TSB 05-016 Child Seat Anchor Location Button Is Missing – replace buttons. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A05-016.PDF
TSB 01-073 SRS Indicator Is On With DTC 7-3 – replace the SRS control unit. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A01-073.PDF
TSB 02-059 Side-To-Side Looseness In The Driver’s 8-Way Power Seat – install shims in the seat base. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A02-059.PDF
TSB 06-068 Vehicle Pulling Or Drifting – wheel alignment, replace tires or steering wheel off-center. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A06-068.PDF
TSB 07-001 Front Stabilizer Link Clunks – replace both stabilizer links with updated parts. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A07-001.PDF
TSB 02-045 Creaking Or Ticking From The Dashboard Or A Front Strut – install shims to the damper mounting base and/or remove the front damper/spring assembly, grind off the body spot weld burrs and refinish the surface. http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A02-045.PDF

Clock light bulb burnt out is common. Repair is here: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23429&highlight=clock+light+replacement

A/C cabin filter is a DIY job: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17078&highlight=cabin+filter+replacement

ATF (Honda ATF Z-1) drain and fill recommended at least every 30,000 miles (48,000 kms) and strongly suggested every 15,000 miles (24,000 kms). I have installed a Magnefine ATF external filter http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/order_page.htm in the return line since there is NO ATF filter.

Batteries do not last long in the Odyssey. Expect to replace every 3-5 years.

Brake fluid is recommended to be changed every 3 years, regardless of mileage.

Online 2001 Owner’s Manual: https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/om/OD0101/OD0101MAINIDX.pdf

Replacement light bulb guide: http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/LampReplacementGuide/

More to be added as I remember them…
 
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#2 ·
Very nice compilation of info which deserves a sticky!
Thanks for your effort to put this together.

For clarification, the ATF in-line filter is personal choice and may not impact the primary cause of tranny failure which is lubrication. The filter won't hurt tho' :D
 
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#4 · (Edited)
Modifications/upgrades, both frivolous and not:

Headlight bulbs – Currently using Apexcone HID Kit (H4 55W 5000K)

Battery – Optima Red Top 34R/78 (model 8003-151) with reverse post (800 CCA)
http://www.optimabatteries.com/home.php

VRBCS300W – Wireless Backup Camera (4 button) http://www.roadmasterusa.com/vr3_cameras.html
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=33577&perpage=15&highlight=vr3&pagenumber=7

CIPA LED Add-A-Signal Side View Mirror http://www.autobarn.net/ciadar.html?site=www.shopzilla.com

LED licence plate bulb (#194)

2005 Odyssey Rear Wiper – purely cosmetic http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=38553&highlight=2005+wiper

Summer Tires: Michelin Hydroedge 225/60R16 tires.

Winter Tires: Michelin Arctic Alpins 215/65R16 tires on separate steel rims.

Gutterguard protection on front bumper cover to protect A/C condenser.

Monroe Sensatracs on the Front (consider replacing the coil springs and stabilizer links at this time as they have been known to fail prematurely) and Load Adjusting Shocks on the rear.

Apexcone HID Kit (H4 High/Low) 55W 5000K. I was tired of paying $60 every year for the Sylvania Silverstar Ultras.

Honda Civic Hybrid short antenna.
 
#5 ·
:worship: ALL HAIL NEW DAD, Thanks for the info. I have had some of these issues when I first bought my van as a certified used van. I see some more issues arising. Question...When I first bought my Ody, it pulled hard to the left. Had the dealer do a BUNCH of front end work and all was fine. This was about 8 months ago, and now all of a sudden the van pulls to the right. My wife and daughter claim they haven't bumped or run into anything. I'm wondering if the past problem is rearing it's ugly head again. Something to do with the Strut top plate or something.
 
#6 ·
Find out the BUNCH of stuff to the left side and consider matching the right side. Here is a list for steering wheel shaking which may apply to the pulling :

Hunter Road Force balance the tires.
Tires.
4 wheel alignment. (TSB 06-068)
Inner and outer tie-rod ends.
Ball joints.
Stabilizer links. (TSB # 07-001)
Motor mounts.
Shocks.
Tighten any loose suspension or steering components.
 
#8 ·
New Dad: For what it's worth....I installed the Airlift 1000 suspension bags on our 2001 this past summer. Purchased from my local NAPA store for ~ $100 CDN.

It took me a little over 3 hours to install with help from a friend (licensed mechanic), and made a marked difference when loaded and towing.

Seeing your sticky list (Thank you!!) reminded me that I haven't check the air bag pressures in at least a month!!

Thanks for taking the time to put things together.

GWGarrard
Osgoode (Ottawa) ON
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the info on the Airlift 1000. Canadian Tire also sells the kit too. Still on my list to do.
 
#10 ·
All this info compiled together is great. Thank you!

My EX kept "clunking" when I would take off in Drive and sometimes when turning a corner. I complained about this off and on for 3 years. They would tighten the struts and the problem got better for a little while and would start again. As I was nearing the end of my extended warranty, I insisted they fix the problem. Honda replaced both struts and it still did not stop. I had the mechanic ride in the car to experience it first-hand. After the very first clunk he asked if I'd had the transmission replaced. I said yes and that the noise started shortly afterwards. Apparently the suspension was not seated properly after the tranny was put back in. He made the necessary adjustments and I've not had a clunk since then. Just something to keep in mind if you're hearing clunks from the front.
 
#11 ·
very loud noise in back brakes, shakes van

We've had our '01 Ody in for brake inspections 3 times (that's $240) just to be told that the VERY LOUD noise that shakes the entire van is normal and Honda is aware of the problem, they have corrected this in newer models. I just can't believe that a sound that scares my passengers is normal. Has anyone else had this problem? It's not a squeek... more of a grind. Thanks!!
 
#12 ·
Is this when applying the brakes? If so, then the TSB 03-013 Rear Brakes Groan When Coming to a Stop – (replace rear brake drums with new updated parts) should be performed. This solved the pulsating squeak I had in the rear brakes. Also, use OEM honda shoes. Check that the operation of the shoes (springs and backing plate) move freely and are lubed. This should have been performed when you have a brake "service" done. Also check for corrosion or rust build-up at the edge of the shoe. A good read on rear brakes: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31713&highlight=shoe+rust
 
#14 ·
Can you narrow down the location under the hood of this sound? I'm thinking EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve, PCV or IAC valve cycling the A/C, but need to narrow down the location.
 
#15 ·
I finally got the guys at Honda to hear the noise... which sounded like a freight train screeching. As I pulled up to the service window the brakes screeched and I cracked up as I saw 3 grown men jump out of their chairs! "I hope you're hear about that noise" was how i was greeted. They changed the rear brake drums and cleaned the break shoes... no more noise! My old Odyssey is now as quiet at our '08 Camry Hybrid!! Thanks for your help!
 
#16 ·
New Dad New Van said:
Find out the BUNCH of stuff to the left side and consider matching the right side. Here is a list for steering wheel shaking which may apply to the pulling :

Hunter Road Force balance the tires.
Tires.
4 wheel alignment. (TSB 06-068)
Inner and outer tie-rod ends.
Ball joints.
Stabilizer links. (TSB # 07-001)
Motor mounts.
Shocks.
Tighten any loose suspension or steering components.
so from reading this my steering wheel shaking at 65 and 70 might not be unbalanced tires?
 
#18 ·
Thanks New Dad!

Just bought my '01 two days ago with 101,000 miles. Had the rear brake groan fixed already. This is my first Ody and I was a little leery about the purchase because of the reports of the transmission failures.

Carfax didn't say much, and there aren't any service records since I bought it from a dealer who bought it wholesale somewhere else.

I figured that the best thing I could do right up front is take care of some of the known problem areas. Here is my "to do" list. Let me know if there is something else that I'm not thinking of.

Timing belt
Flush and fill on the transmission
Struts / Shocks **

**(I have a fairly loud clunking from the front end when driving over bumps. I am assuming that the noise is the front struts or shocks. Does this thing have struts or is it a conventional spring and shock front end?)

Is there a consensus on a recommended brand of shocks / struts?

I don't tow a trailer or haul anything heavier than a couple of strollers or bicycles or a load of groceries.

Thanks for the great site, I'll keep reading.

Ted
 
#19 ·
Welcome Ted.

The timing belt service (including the spark plugs and coolant flush) is recommended at 105,000 miles. Consider replacing the water pump at the same time while they are in there. Search on timing belt service for more info.

Don't flush the ATF. Honda transmissions don't like it. A flush disturbs debris that will clog. Recommend the drain and fill method of Honda ATF Z-1 only. Consider doing and drain and fill 3 or 4 times and driving in between going through all the gears each time. Wipe off debris on magnetic drain plug. Again do a search on ATF drain and fill.

I'd go with the OEM shocks unless you want to go fancier. Consider getting the coils done at the same time since they have been known to break without warning. Search on coil spring breaking to see the reports. Odyssey has coil over struts in front.

Others: replace A/C cabin filter and flush the brake fluid (recommended every 3 years) off the top of my head right now.
 
#20 ·
Changing A/C condenser and compressor

2001 Honda Odyssey EX 126K
I have a blown A/C compressor and was told that I needed to replace it and the condenser. I have been looking to see if anyone has replaced these on their own. Can any one let me know if this is a diy or not? I have a friend that thas rebuilt 2 Acuras and a Porsche who believes it shouldn't take more than 4-6 hours but Ijust wanted to check with other Ody owners.
 
#21 ·
#23 ·
First, check Fuse #53 (30A) in the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box (located on the passenger's side under the hood), then check to see if the light on the control panel works when you turn the rear defogger on, then check the relay in the Passenger-Side Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box.
 
#24 ·
in reply to steering wheel shaking

egads said:
Who knows? Post your current mileage. And always start with tire balance.
2000 lx steel wheels. 75k miles. i read that after market or oem rims are better than steel looked at struts and they dont leak oil. bushings look all good
 
#25 ·
My 2001 Odyssey

My 2001 Odyssey has an EGR valve problem.
When I went to a repair shop and have my car replaced the EGR valve, the mechanics in the shop didn't install a Teflon sleeve to reduce future clogging.
As the check-engine lamp was on again, I had to visit the shop again.
They said that they had to drill in EGR port and install a short metal tube and the cost would be about $250, which was mainly labor fee.
I asked why they had not installed the short metal tube when they had changed the EGR valve.
The aswer was "we did just as this Honda manual says".
If it is true, I think the manual is really stupid.
 
#26 ·
Was this a Honda dealer? Keep in mind that the EGR repair (TSB 05-026) is warrantied at a Honda dealer for 8 years or 80,000 miles. The Honda TSB explicitly states the procedure, including the reaming of the port and insertion of the teflon tube. What is your mileage?
 
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