P1607, battery, rpm reving when the A/C is on
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Thread: P1607, battery, rpm reving when the A/C is on

  1. #1
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    P1607, battery, rpm reving when the A/C is on

    I just took my Ody to a mechanic that I have going to for about 10 years and he said that my 04 Ody has a code of P1607. I have been hesitant to take it to the dealer, because i have read to reset the codes and see if it will do the trick. My Ody has 104k miles and I would love to keep it until 200k.

    Also, I have had to jump it off 3 times in the past two weeks and I wonder if this is due to the fact that one of the battery terminals was corroded at one time. I cleaned it twice within the past 6 months and I have noticed that the clamp doesn't fit as tight as before when it was originally purchased. Could this be the cause of the code (P1607) or are they not related at all.

    Finally, when taking a trip to the beach about two weeks ago my Ody started to rev real crazy. the RPM's went from normal to the tip of red and I was not pressing the accelerator. Pulled it over and checked all the fluid levels and they were fine. I thought it was the transmission, but the fluid level was fine. I also noticed that there was some black smoke and oil on the left side of the engine. After talking to a few people, they all stated that it was the A/C and that the seal broke and that it needed to be replaced.

    Back to the code (P1607) and my mechanic who told me just a few hours ago that the A/C was fine and that the battery was good and with all this info, I am confused. the reason for my confusion is that he told me that the ECM could cause the engine or A/C to throw oil or even cause it to have to be jumped. He said that when you run the codes then the A/C, battery and alternator codes should come up if something was wrong with any those three things. he finally said that I needed to get it to the dealer soon before I were to have any more problems.

    Could someone answer one or all of my questions if possible?
    Last edited by coachwalk; 07-15-2008 at 07:22 PM.

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  3. #2
    Super Moderator dvpatel's Avatar
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    [list=1][*]Welcome to OdyClub. [*]We do encourage nubies to attempt to search before posting questions.[*]Posting in existing threads on the subject too is encouraged around here.[*]The search term with your Code P1607 only returns 8 hits. So, you don't have to do too much reading. Here is the first thread to start you off with. Check Engine[*]Perhaps that someone meant IAC and NOT A/C. IAC Valve aka Idle Air Control valve can cause the rev condition you describe. It could be a bad IAC valve and sometimes it does NOT throw an error code to boot. Read up on IAC Valve related posts.[*]If you read the threads on your P1607 issue and IAC issue, most likely you will find an answer before taking the car into the dealership. I am not sure what the relationship with IAC issues can have with the black smoke and oil on the left side of the engine. Are you sure its not some sort of an oil leak?[*]Having to jump the car three times in a couple of weeks CANNOT be good for the battery. Check that cable and clean it up. And get your battery tested. Honda Batteries are not something to rave about and there are reported failures of Honda batteries in as little as a couple of years.[/list=1]
    Last edited by dvpatel; 07-15-2008 at 07:46 PM.
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    Thanks. The info is very helpful and I am on my way to get a new battery.

    Should I go ahead and reset the code by pulling plug 13 before getting the new battery?

  5. #4
    Super Moderator dvpatel's Avatar
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    Originally posted by coachwalk
    Thanks. The info is very helpful and I am on my way to get a new battery.

    Should I go ahead and reset the code by pulling plug 13 before getting the new battery?
    No. No. Get the battery and then reset the system. That way, you don't get the code to light up on your way. Also, Autozone will test your battery for free if you are inclined and want to be sure it is really the battery.

    Forgot to mention in my prior post. The corroded cable is directly related to the P1607 code. Ensure that its replaced or it fits tightly. A lose cable CAN cause that CEL Code to turn up. Infact, the first solution to the CEL Code P1607 as described in those threads I mentioned is to ensure the cable is clean and snug.

    Good Luck.
    Last edited by dvpatel; 07-15-2008 at 08:40 PM.
    When I use this smilie ===> I am NOT calling you stupid.

    The value of a forum such as this one is not in that one can post a question and receive an answer, but in that the question has most likely been asked before, and the answer is available to him that will but only use the search function.

    2007 EX-L R&N, Slate Green with Olive (couldn't muster up the courage to trade my 1999 baby) ... Ours

    2001 Emerald Green Pearl Accord V6-LX (Replaced the POS Taurus) ... Hers ...
    ..... Tranny replaced 6/4/08 @ 67,977 miles.
    ..... Tranny strarted slipping only 8,414 miles after the replacemnt.
    ..... 2nd tranny replacement 9/21/2009 @ 76,659 miles.
    1999 Sterling Mist Nissan Maxima SE with Bose and 6 Disc CD Changer in the trunk ... All Mine

    1993 Maroon Ford Taurus GL (Was a POS after the clock turned 60K Miles) ... Traded for the Accord

    alexmish1's Customer Acceptance Checklist
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  6. #5
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    So, I should take the Ody up to Autozone and have them to check the battery before I put on the new one? The reason I ask, is because I just purchased a new battery, new cable and gel to to limit the cause of corrosion in the future.

  7. #6
    Super Moderator dvpatel's Avatar
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    Originally posted by coachwalk
    So, I should take the Ody up to Autozone and have them to check the battery before I put on the new one? The reason I ask, is because I just purchased a new battery, new cable and gel to to limit the cause of corrosion in the future.
    If the current battery you have is the factory one that came with your van, most definitely, the battery is shot. The multiple jumps required is proof enough. I am assuming you just got back from purchasing the battery and the cable correct? If yes, go ahead and swap out he cable and the battery and clear the code and report back.

    Once you remove the old one, you can still take it to Autozone for testing. They can do a better test if you leave it overnight which works out well since you already got a new one. If the battery comes back fine (I doubt it though), you should be able to return the new one.
    When I use this smilie ===> I am NOT calling you stupid.

    The value of a forum such as this one is not in that one can post a question and receive an answer, but in that the question has most likely been asked before, and the answer is available to him that will but only use the search function.

    2007 EX-L R&N, Slate Green with Olive (couldn't muster up the courage to trade my 1999 baby) ... Ours

    2001 Emerald Green Pearl Accord V6-LX (Replaced the POS Taurus) ... Hers ...
    ..... Tranny replaced 6/4/08 @ 67,977 miles.
    ..... Tranny strarted slipping only 8,414 miles after the replacemnt.
    ..... 2nd tranny replacement 9/21/2009 @ 76,659 miles.
    1999 Sterling Mist Nissan Maxima SE with Bose and 6 Disc CD Changer in the trunk ... All Mine

    1993 Maroon Ford Taurus GL (Was a POS after the clock turned 60K Miles) ... Traded for the Accord

    alexmish1's Customer Acceptance Checklist
    alexmish1's Rattle Kill

  8. #7
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    I agree that if the battery is original, it's toast. Many of us have had the battery be under spec after just two years. Four is really pushing it. We also just had a post about battery connections. It seems the post is tapered. You must have the clamp all the way down to make a tight connection. Once the battery is new and well connected, then you can move on to other issues. Do as dvpatel suggests and enter just the code you got and read all the threads. The Cliff notes of them is this:
    It's either a bad or dead battery or you need a new PCM. I theorize that running with a weak battery long enough my ruin a PCM. Welcome to the world of electronic vehicles!

    Hopefully you don't need a PCM and can spend a grand on a 105k service instead. But either way, you are spending some serious money soon.

  9. #8
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    Thanks for the info. I just replaced the battery in the Ody and reset everything by pulling 13. The light is off and smooth sailing thus far. I didn't change the positive power cord to the battery, because I didn't get the correct one from Advance Auto. Should i change the whole wiring system or just the terminal (connector) at the end of the wire?

  10. #9
    Super Moderator dvpatel's Avatar
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    If you were able to snugly fit the +ve terminal to the new battery, leave it alone. If not, I don't see why you'd need to change the whole wire. Just the terminal should be fine.
    When I use this smilie ===> I am NOT calling you stupid.

    The value of a forum such as this one is not in that one can post a question and receive an answer, but in that the question has most likely been asked before, and the answer is available to him that will but only use the search function.

    2007 EX-L R&N, Slate Green with Olive (couldn't muster up the courage to trade my 1999 baby) ... Ours

    2001 Emerald Green Pearl Accord V6-LX (Replaced the POS Taurus) ... Hers ...
    ..... Tranny replaced 6/4/08 @ 67,977 miles.
    ..... Tranny strarted slipping only 8,414 miles after the replacemnt.
    ..... 2nd tranny replacement 9/21/2009 @ 76,659 miles.
    1999 Sterling Mist Nissan Maxima SE with Bose and 6 Disc CD Changer in the trunk ... All Mine

    1993 Maroon Ford Taurus GL (Was a POS after the clock turned 60K Miles) ... Traded for the Accord

    alexmish1's Customer Acceptance Checklist
    alexmish1's Rattle Kill

  11. #10
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    Thanks. I will take the wire back along with the core battery. Also, I will let you know how things are running.

  12. #11
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    You DID clean the cable terminals with a wire brush, especially the inner surface which contacts the battery post?????


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