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Steering wheel vibration during braking gets worse as brakes heat up - no pedal pulse

7K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  chiody 
#1 · (Edited)
I have searched these forums and haven't found a similar issue reported. After being parked overnight, the brakes work smoothly upon first application regardless of the speed (around town, or on the highway). No noises, no steering wheel shaking, etc. But the more heavily the brakes are used, the more I get a vibration in the steering wheel (again, regardless of speed - even when coming to a stop), but I don't feel anything at the pedal. The steering shaking gets worse and worse until the car is parked for a long time again, and then the cycle starts over. It seems to me that this is related to the temperature of the braking system. My first instinct was that I had warped rotors, but if they are warped, shouldn't I feel something in my brake pedal also, and not just the steering wheel? Also, shouldn't the vibration occur regardless of the temperature?

I was pretty sure this was temporarily fixed the last time I had my brakes bled (a year ago), but I don't know what else they may have done at the time. They definitely didn't change any pads or rotors. When I look back at the service order, they show a measurement for the front and rear brakes, but it doesn't say pads or rotors. If the measurement was for the pads, then it could have been something during that procedure that fixed it. Is it possible that old brake fluid could cause this phenomenon? I have never had this before on any of my cars. Or could it be something as simple as cleaning the caliper guide bolts?

Thanks!
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Sounds like the rotors are a mess.

I'm not surprised you don't feel a pulsation at the pedal. This is a 4000lb vehicle, and the brakes are pretty highly assisted.

An experiment that might tell you something is to wait for the problem to occur, then find a long downhill stretch. Get to a decent speed, put it in neutral, turn off the engine, and gently pump the brakes a few times until the vacuum assist is gone. See if the pulsation appears at the brake pedal then.

You could also do the above in a giant parking lot, but by the time you get the vacuum gone, the van will probably be stopped.

Be aware that turning off the engine or even coasting in neutral on a road is illegal in some states. Also be aware that on a hill, it will probably be difficult and slow to get the van to slow down when there is no power assist. Don't panic, just restart the engine.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Honda rotors aren't anything special rotors.


I'd opt for some new standard brembo rotors and some hawk HPS brakes from www.tirerack.com

Make sure you have an impact screwdriver to remove the rotors. I used an impact airgun attached to a phillips bit and it did the job.

When you get them installed, find a short stretch of highway that you can make about 10 slow stops from 40mph with a half 1/2 to 1 mile between each stop. This sets the pads/rotors into sync. After that just try to go easy on the brakes for the first 500 miles.

Doing this process above is reccomended every time you get new brake pads to help prevent warping rotors.
 
#4 ·
I have 109,700 miles on my van with the original front rotors and brake pads replaced at 65 K miles. The rotors were not re-surfaced at the time because there was no steering vibration issues. I started getting the vibration at around 90K miles.

The rotors are most likely warped. Should I try to have the rotors re-surfaced with new brake pads or should I replace both the rotors and pads?

Thanks in advance.
 
#5 ·
I'd replace them both. Matching a high end pair of pads with a good set of rotors will increase braking power.

Also, consider getting the brake system flushed out to prevent issues later on down the road with the braking system. This should be done every 100k but most people get rid of the car before doing it and sometime around 140-170k the system starts to leak and need parts rebuilt and replaced.
 
#6 ·
gregersonke said:
Honda rotors aren't anything special rotors.


I'd opt for some new standard brembo rotors and some hawk HPS brakes from www.tirerack.com

Make sure you have an impact screwdriver to remove the rotors. I used an impact airgun attached to a phillips bit and it did the job.

When you get them installed, find a short stretch of highway that you can make about 10 slow stops from 40mph with a half 1/2 to 1 mile between each stop. This sets the pads/rotors into sync. After that just try to go easy on the brakes for the first 500 miles.

Doing this process above is reccomended every time you get new brake pads to help prevent warping rotors.
In reference to "bedding in" new pads, there are differing schools of thought. Just for reference, this site has a interesting perspective with high speed stops in succession...

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

I've used a similar method with success bedding in my set of Wagner "professional" pads. And they are at 50K miles of wear currently on the original rotors at 143K. I am unfortunately starting to to feel a minor out of roundness from hwy speeds stops.

From what I can decipher by forum members, I'm going to try some el cheapo import rotors for about $20 each before going Brembo at many times more. I'm due for a pad change as my fluid level in the reservoir is nearing the "fill" line...

:duh:
 
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