2003 Odyssey DRL relay location

[jumpstart]

Does anyone know where the drl relay is located on a 2003 Odyssey (Canadian)? I have spent an hour out in the cold searching for it on the left side by the fuse box and on the right side under the glove box as suggested for other years of the van.

Based on other threads I am assuming the drl relay is causing the buzzing that I hear coming from the low cut relay.

Larry

[jfoxwaterdown]

On my 2001 EX it is behind the glove box marked "Mitsuba Running Light Relay"
It's a fairly big module maybe about 4" x 4".
I had to take mine out and re-solder the relays in it a year and half ago because my DRL's were causing my headlights to not work properly.
I didn't have any noise from it.
I have pictures of the module and location, but the pictures are to big to upload to the forum.
PM me if you want the pictures.
I should have done a write up on repairing the DRL as it took me a couple of days looking for it. I thought it would have been on the drivers side, but wrong.
I have lots of pictures of the repair if anybody needs them.

[odysseusChariot]

Maybe you can post the pics on PHOTO BUCKET ,or some other format to link to I sure would love to see them as many others would ,tanks for the info though

[jumpstart]

Thanks, I will have another look by the glove box. Could you see it by crawling underneath or was there some dash removal required to expose it?

[jfoxwaterdown]

You need to remove the glove box
Just a few screws
I will attach some pictures if I can get it to work.
I can't figure out how to upload more than one picture at a time.

[William Wiles]

According to the OEM service manual the DRL relay and the low beam cut relay are together under the driver dash to the left of the column. There is another two relay group close to it between the drl group and column. The DRL control unit is behind the glovbox.

[jfoxwaterdown]

I have found that the majority of the problems are with the two relays on the DRL board behind the glove box.
The solder joints crack from the vibration caused by the relays opening and closing.
I re-soldered the relays and have had no problems since.
It is a simple task for someone with a little experience with a soldering iron.
Note: Do not use a lot of heat. This will cause the foil on the board to lift. Your typical Weller soldering gun is to hot. Better to use a small soldering iron designed for electronics. You can pick one up for under $30.00 at most places. I got mine on sale at Princess Auto for $19.00.
If you must use your Weller gun, only use low heat, and be gental.
I used the directions from http://www.nyx.net/~smanley/hondadrlfix/index.html
Notice the cracked solder joints in the middle of my board on the attached picture.
If some one could tell me how to upload multiple pictures in one message, I'll put up all of mine.

[jfoxwaterdown]

Picture is the front side of board showing the relays that crack the solder joints

More to come

[jfoxwaterdown]

This picture is after I re-soldered the cracked joints.
Not pretty but functional. I was starting to get too much heat on the board.
I didn't need to add any additional solder. Once I got the old joint hot enough the old solder flowed back in the joint.
Make sure you focus 80% of the heat on the relay pin and 20% on the board.
Really is an easy fix.

[Twizted]

if you could please mail all pictures to my e-mail

twizted8x@gmail.com

[William Wiles]

Just right click the picture and select 'save picture as' and save it to your computer.

[Twizted]

ok ive already done that. i just thought you had more.

[sedate_driver]

Does anyone know the part number for the DRL? I tried resoldering whatever I could see but nothing seems to work. I'm thinking I'll need to replace the entire unit.

Thanks.

[Tim Smalley]

Part # 38260-SM4-CO3 Relay Assy.

[sedate_driver]

Thanks, I replaced the DRL relay but it turns out the real problem was I had a short in one of the lines to my trailer hitch. I decided to pull out the entire harness. Everything's back to normal now and I'm a happy camper.