ABS Trouble Codes:
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Thread: ABS Trouble Codes:

  1. #1
    Registered User hockeyman's Avatar
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    ABS Trouble Codes:

    These are the trouble codes for the Antilock Braking System only, not the OBD II system. 95-97 Odyssey and Oasis

    The diagnostic tool is on the passenger's side lower dashboard, at the bottom of the glove compartment. Just get down on the floor and look up at the bottom of the glove compartment, you'll see a BLUE plug that has two small open slots. Just use a bare-metal paperclip or something similar (like a thin wire) to put in the slots to connect them, then turn the ignition ~ON~ *BUT DO NOT START!
    The ABS light will blink a series of times. The light will start to blink, pause, then begin to blink again...Use a piece of paper and pencil to write the total number of blinks down. Example: 4 fast blinks, a pause, then 8 fast blinks, = code #48
    The trouble code will repeat THREE times, and then stop. Remove the paperclip or wire, and then look below to see where your problem is...

    ONE (1) blink followed by:
    2 blinks= Pump Motor
    3 blinks= High pressure leak
    4 blinks= Pressure switch
    8 blinks= High pressure system

    TWO (2) blinks followed by:
    1 blink= Parking brake

    THREE (3) blinks followed by:
    1 blink= Pulser, right-front
    2 blinks= Pulser, left-front
    4 blinks= Pulser, right-rear
    8 blinks= Pulser, left-rear
    12 blinks= Different tire diameter. If a tire size is different than the others, the ABS will see it as a fault.

    FOUR (4) blinks followed by:
    1 blink= Wheel sensor, right-front
    2 blinks= Wheel sensor, left front
    4 blinks= Wheel sensor, right-rear
    8 blinks= Wheel sensor, left-rear

    FIVE (5) blinks followed by:
    4 blinks= Rear wheel lock, right
    8 blinks= Rear wheel lock, left

    SIX (6) blinks followed by:
    1 blink= Fail safe relay, front
    4 blinks= Fail safe relay, rear

    SEVEN (7) blinks followed by:
    1 blink= Solenoid, right-front
    2 blinks= Solenoid, left-front
    4 blinks= Solenoid, rear

    EIGHT (8) blinks followed by:
    1 blink= ABS function
    2 blinks= CPU comparison
    4 blinks= Integrated Circuit (CI)

    For those who may ask;
    Left side of the vehicle is the Driver's side.
    Right side of the vehicle is the Passenger Side.

    If you locate the fault code, see it above and still cannot understand it, email me or other people here on this board and we'll see what we can do for you.
    Last edited by hockeyman; 06-16-2009 at 09:34 PM.

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  3. #2
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    Thanks, Hockeyman. You're OK, for a flyers fan
    1996 Oasis S - Original owner - Sherwood Green Pearl w/194,000+ miles

  4. #3
    Registered User hockeyman's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Oasisnjrz
    Thanks, Hockeyman. You're OK, for a flyers fan
    ugh...don't remind me! This year is BAAAAD for us!!!

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  6. #4
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    I bought my 99 Oasis last Feb. Right now it has 149K. The abs light has never come on during startup. I have never seen it. After I noticed this a few weeks after I bought it, I went ahead and just tested the abs out for real on a snow covered and pretty slippery road on several occasions over a few weeks time and the abs seemed to work as advertised. I've not had time to just replace the bulb for the "abs" light. Am I right to just presume its the bulb or could/should I use the above procedure. Is there any way the bulb could suddenly light up if I jumper the plug?
    Runmailscott

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  7. #5
    Registered User Zevi Azz's Avatar
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    Hey thanks for the info hockeyman!

    Tried your method and got code #48. Now somebody can point where to find the wheel sensor (on rear left) and how to what not lol?
    1996 LX Heather Mist Metalic

  8. #6
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    You need to remove the rotor to gain access. See the writeup on HostileJava's FAQ .
    1996 Oasis S - Original owner - Sherwood Green Pearl w/194,000+ miles

  9. #7
    Registered User hockeyman's Avatar
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    Just use caution if you're attermpting to remove / pry out the sensor. If it's the original, it will snap in two very easily!

    Get your rotor assembly off, remove the two bolts that are holding the sensor on (on the back of the HUB), and use a screwdriver & hammer to tap the sensor out. PLace the tip of the screwdriver on the end of the sensor, and tap the screwdriver with a hammer. Remember to tap it from the outside towards the center of the vehicle. There will be an access hole on the HUB. Turn the HUB to see the feeler behind it.

    When I tried to install the new sensor, it wouldn't fit too well. I used a Dremel to lightly grind off some of the corrosion that built-up inside of the hole, and then the sensor slid right in with ease.

    I don't know if it's a defect or not, but I see that alot of people are having problems with the rear left sensor.

    **Best advice I can give is to clean the sensor first. If the code goes away, disregard all of the crap I wrote above!

    Good luck...
    Last edited by hockeyman; 10-12-2007 at 05:34 PM.

  10. #8
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    ABS still ON

    HI Sir,
    I am quite a novice here but have got about 10 years of handyman experience in cars.
    You posts here helped me a lot to read the code (44) and then clean the sensor but It still did no good to me. Now, just wanted an advice from you that is there anything that I should check before I replace the sensor (rear Right) or should just start the hunt fro new sensor?
    Thnx
    "The JACK" in 95' 2.2L Odyssey
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  11. #9
    Registered User hockeyman's Avatar
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    My best guess is that if you've cleaned the sensor and you still have the code, I'd just suggest buying a new one. Unless you want to try cleaning the connecting plug, but I personally think that it's useless.

    Just be prepared if you are buying a new sensor from Honda. ...$$$!

  12. #10
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    Red face

    Thanks Hockeyman,
    I actually got sick cuz of sudden cold weather and cud not continue with my troubleshooting....but today the temperature rose up to +5 C and to a surprise, I didnt see the ABS light comming up for about 5 kms untill I stopped on a signal and started again. Does this give you any hint on if it could be the connector or if this makes you sure that it is the sensor problem?(do sensor misbehaves at low temperatures because my problem started as soon as the temperature went below 0 C)
    Will check the connector today and keep you posted. BTW the minimum price that i can get the sensor here is 198.00 CAD + taxes.
    "The JACK" in 95' 2.2L Odyssey
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  13. #11
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    I checked the continuity accross the sensor and it looks open and that assures me that its bad. I compared it to the other side where it is around 1.5K ohms. Will definately keep U posted on my result(s).
    "The JACK" in 95' 2.2L Odyssey
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  14. #12
    Registered User hockeyman's Avatar
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    You can possibly find a used one on ebay, but I don't recommend that because you really don't know what kind of shape it's in.


    ~Just use caution!~ Once the ABS light kicks on, the anti-lock brakes disengage and stop working. You can still stop, but you risk locking the wheel(s) and sliding out of control in an emergency situation. So, you may want to hussle a bit on the repair.

  15. #13
    Registered User frippegubben's Avatar
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    I've just replaced the ABS light and immidiately got it full on...

    I've read code 4-4 and tried to clean the sensor. I didn't remove it, I just used compressed air to blow all the crap off it. But the light's still on.
    Is there any more things you can check before saying it's a faulty sensor? Where's the sensor connected, where can I disconnect it to measure its resistance?
    Are there any more connectors on the way from the sensor to the ABS control unit?
    Can you connect an oscilloscope to it and turn the wheel and get anything useful out of it that way?
    I currently own: Mitsubishi Grandis -08, VW Lupo 3L -01, Honda Shuttle -97, Suzuki T500 -72, and a handful of mopeds e.g. MCB E-type, Monark Monarscoot, Monark Monarped, Monark La Strada, Mustang Cobra, Piaggio Velofax.

  16. #14
    Registered User hockeyman's Avatar
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    Originally posted by frippegubben
    1-Is there any more things you can check before saying it's a faulty sensor?

    2-Where's the sensor connected, where can I disconnect it to measure its resistance?

    3-Are there any more connectors on the way from the sensor to the ABS control unit?

    4-Can you connect an oscilloscope to it and turn the wheel and get anything useful out of it that way?
    Question #2 would be my answer for question #1. Other than that, I'd suggest replacing it.
    Follow the wires from the rear of the sensors. The rear ABS sensor wires meet up near the center of the frame, under the car. Very easy to get to if you put the rear of the car on ramps.

    3-I'm not sure. I think that the wires come from the ABS Unit it'self, right to the sensor connectors. It would be foolish for Honda to have more connectors, since that could cause more problems. Not 100% sure though.

    4-I have no clue.

  17. #15
    Registered User frippegubben's Avatar
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    I found the connector and measured the sensor, and it showed open curcuit, as opposed to the left sensor that showed around 1700 Ohm. So I guess it's broken and needs to be replaced.

    Another $250 down the drain...
    I currently own: Mitsubishi Grandis -08, VW Lupo 3L -01, Honda Shuttle -97, Suzuki T500 -72, and a handful of mopeds e.g. MCB E-type, Monark Monarscoot, Monark Monarped, Monark La Strada, Mustang Cobra, Piaggio Velofax.

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