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Heater Control/Slider Switch

25K views 23 replies 13 participants last post by  rvaughn801 
#1 ·
We have a '95/1st Gen. Recently the plastic slider (adapter) between the knob and the control lever broke. Refer to the arrow/part #3 in the pic:



I think the cause was that the pushrod inside the cable casing (part# 5) dried out creating a lot of drag. I obtained the replacement part for about $13 at the dealer's part counter.

After I replaced the slider, I re-lubed the pushrod by creating a cone with duct tape where the pushrod exits the casing. Hold the cable straight up, and wrap the tape around the casing with the pushrod sticking out through the center- get some silicon spray/lube and gently create a pool of lube that will drain into the casing. You might even see some tiny bubbles as the liquid seeps down and into the cable sheath. I soaked-in one stage, worked the pushrod back and forth and let another soak in. Clean up any excess seepage on the outside of the casing. My pushrod was easy to operate after this treatment, and not much force will be required to move the control knob.

Hope yours goes as well as mine did.

-Eric
 
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#2 ·
Nice job. Thanks for the mini-write up. By any chance do you have a pic of the cone you made and how you positioned it?
 
#7 ·
OK folks,

Please pardon the low-quality pic.
I've simulated this solution with aquarium air hose, bike cable, and clear packaging tape. Refer to the pic annotations:

1) Note how this 4" long, 2" wide tape forms a cone. Start with at a corner of the tape near the end of the casing (4). Wrap the tape at an angle which forms the cone. The lower edge of the tape is sealed against casing at (4), but not enough to close off the opening (3). This may take a few attempts to get the angle-of-wrap correct.

2) the pushrod.

3) the casing opening where the lubricant will wick in. I sprayed enough lube to form a liquid which quickly seeped between the pushrod and the casing. I also held the cable straight up so gravity could help.

4) I used duct tape to form my cone. The distance between (3) and (4) in this example is exaggerated for clarity. My seal was much closer to the edge of the casing.



After driving the van and using the heater I can't be more pleased with the results.
 
#9 ·
overboostin said:
just a fyi
if you need to get the whole control unit.
one from 92-95 civic are the same its just gray insted of black like ours but the face can be swaped over
Yeah, I wondered about that on my '95 Civic. Thanks.
 
#12 ·
Just r&r'd the heater slider (Part# 79514-SR3-003) and knob (Part# 79604-SX0-003) since I broke the slider while moving it to the cold position a couple of weeks ago. I went ahead and r&r'd the fan slider and knob (same part #s for heater slider and knob) as well since I had everything apart. I replaced the 2 bulbs (Part#79629-SX0-003) as well for the back-lighting of the HVAC control buttons. I also bought a new cable (Part# 79542-SX0-A00) just in case. As luck would have it, I didn't damage the original cable and it was still in good shape. Just lubed per skipper0802's instructions - thanks for the tip skipper0802!

In case anyone else plans to tackle this project, I have a used slider, 2 used knobs, and a brand new cable. I"ll post these parts in the Classifieds thread on this forum.

Next up is the front suspension - a little bit at a time.

Cheers,

Andre
 
#13 ·
accessing the slider and cable area?

I'm new here and just started searching, but I see you're working on an area I'm trying to access. My climate control slider is not sliding enough for the cold air (it was working last week) and I can tell there's a linkage problem. I just can't figure out how to get in there (behind all the plastic and above the radio) to analyze it! I've got a 96 - is the 95 similar? Any advice, pix, video would be helpful. Thanks!
Rob
 
#14 ·
RE: accessing the slider and cable area?

UPDATE: I finally found my way in, and part of the plastic part on the bottom of the controller that holds the cable has broken and the cable sleeve is not staying put when I move the slider to cold. I'm hoping to figure out a way to gerry-rig something so that I don't have to buy a whole new controller. Any ideas will be appreciated.

I plan to lube the cable while I've got everything exposed. Thanks to skipper for the great advice about lubing it.
 

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#15 ·
UPDATE: I finally found my way in, and part of the plastic part on the bottom of the controller that holds the cable has broken and the cable sleeve is not staying put when I move the slider to cold. I'm hoping to figure out a way to gerry-rig something so that I don't have to buy a whole new controller. Any ideas will be appreciated.

I plan to lube the cable while I've got everything exposed. Thanks to skipper for the great advice about lubing it.
You might be able to just buy the plastic clip. Otherwise, see if you can slip a smal zip tie around the cable sleeve and zip it to the clip itself.
 
#22 ·
Will be trying to tackle a couple problems with the heater control in wife's 96 Odyssey. The 1st is the heat/cold slide is not working, am sure its the clip I see mentioned here. The other is the air always blows out of the ac vents no matter what is selected, floor, or defrost, always blows out the dash facing passenger/driver. I think this is all controlled electrically. Should I be looking for the whole heater control, or is it a simple fix?
 
#24 ·
I lubricated the heater control cable on my Ody. I didn't take the cable loose at the control (slider) end. Instead I took it loose at the opposite end, near the passenger foot well.

The most challenging part was getting the passenger foot well heater duct free. It is just a friction fit, but it required a determined pull towards the passenger side to pull it out. I lost a little skin. Once that was done I pulled the cable off the flap control, and pulled that end of the cable back through the dash and behind the radio/HVAC control that I had pulled out a bit.

I raised the disconnected cable above the dash so that gravity did most of the work. I dribbled silicone spray down the cable, and worked the heat control from cold to hot to cold until it was free. It went back together much faster then taking it apart.

I have asked the rest of the family to move the heat control using a firm thumb and finger grip, to avoid tearing the knob off. The cable does move a couple of flaps, so it is doing some work. But since I freed up the cable, it should work fine.
 
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