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Gen 3 Timing Belt Write Up is Here!

316K views 534 replies 120 participants last post by  surgeon 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
http://home.comcast.net/~desmo888/Gen3_Ody_TB_1.pdf

http://home.comcast.net/~desmo888/Gen3_Ody_TB_2.pdf

Sticky worthy? I think so...



**************** EDIT ******************
Since the files in this post are missing, here is a quote from another forum member who posted instructions. Direct link to post is:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-20...-timing-belt-write-up-here-8.html#post1110121

 
#2 ·
Let me be the first to say a big Thank you!

Minor note, you provided two references to the same file.
I think you are missing the link to the first file, which is easily gotten by replacing 2 with a 1 in the url.

thanks again, I will be using it in a year or so!
Max
 
#3 ·
maxud said:

Minor note, you provided two references to the same file.
I think you are missing the link to the first file, which is easily gotten by replacing 2 with a 1 in the url.

DOH! Fixed now. Thanks!
 
#4 ·
Outstanding job, Desmo! I don't think I've ever seen a more concise DIY! Having never done anything this invasive in our Odyssey, I hope you don't mind a few questions:
1. When installing the belt per the manual, would an assistant or zip ties help keep good tension on the camshaft pulleys until the belt is on?
2. Your warning about the camshafts rotating are appropriate, but also quite dire. Is there any way to keep them from moving (c clamp, etc.) until the belt is back on? Or is this overkill?
3. Would you say that getting the engine mount off was the biggest challenge of the whole evolution?

Thanks again for such a great write-up! Where do we send the beer or bucks?
 
#6 ·
desmo888 said:
Sticky worthy? I think so...
Nice. Great job desmo888. :)

We can stick this thread but not many folks do their own Timing Belt changes. Plus there are already way too many sticky threads and folks just go right past 'em.

Hopefully, Dwayn will open up the tech section at some point and/or we can upload the PDFs. In the mean while, if you want your PDFs hosted on my webserver, please let me know and I will host 'em so that the files are still hosted even if you decide to move away from comcast.

Lets give it a few days to see how the site pans out before we sticky this. :)
 
#7 ·
OdyMook said:

1. When installing the belt per the manual, would an assistant or zip ties help keep good tension on the camshaft pulleys until the belt is on?
2. Your warning about the camshafts rotating are appropriate, but also quite dire. Is there any way to keep them from moving (c clamp, etc.) until the belt is back on? Or is this overkill?
3. Would you say that getting the engine mount off was the biggest challenge of the whole evolution?

Thanks again for such a great write-up! Where do we send the beer or bucks?
Thanks for the complement.

1. An assistant may help but what really is needed is a tool to hold the cam pulleys in place. Other cars use this type of tool, I am not sure why the Honda does not mention one. I will check the manual again to see if this is the case.
2. see #1
3. The engine mount removal takes some time but is not bad. The biggest challenge is getting the timing belt right. This is when you need to get out of the rip n tear mode and slow does, use your head. This will allow you to make one adjustment (if you miss it in the initial installation) instead of chasing it.

Cheers!
 
#8 ·
Re: Re: Gen 3 Timing Belt Write Up is Here!

dvpatel said:
We can stick this thread but not many folks do their own Timing Belt changes. Plus there are already way too many sticky threads and folks just go right past 'em.

Hopefully, Dwayn will open up the tech section at some point and/or we can upload the PDFs. In the mean while, if you want your PDFs hosted on my webserver, please let me know and I will host 'em so that the files are still hosted even if you decide to move away from comcast.

Lets give it a few days to see how the site pans out before we sticky this. :)
Thanks DV. I agree, this really belongs in the tech section. I just don't want this to get lost in the years to come. I have a tremendous amount of time in this and would like folks to continue to benefit from it.

I was going to check into putting on my google webspace so I can update if need be. Let's wait on that too.
 
#9 ·
JRabDawg said:
wow! you are the man! :worship: I think I will let a Honda tech do mine while I stick to oil and ATF changes. :worship:
Sometimes this is best. I have a lot of mechanical experience (I used to be an aircraft mechanic) and own a rather extensive tool collection.

A lot of getting this done is the confidence factor. If you are used to mechanical challenges, then you should be fine. If not, you may get frustrated.
 
#10 ·
desmo888 said:
Sometimes this is best. I have a lot of mechanical experience (I used to be an aircraft mechanic) and own a rather extensive tool collection.

A lot of getting this done is the confidence factor. If you are used to mechanical challenges, then you should be fine. If not, you may get frustrated.
True that, I have never attempted brake pads... :cool:
 
#11 ·
Wow - that was impressive.

I think I'll be selling my Odyssey before I have to change the timing belt :) :)
 
#12 ·
How long did it take

Dave,

excellent write up. I read it all and I will print it just in case it gets lost over the years, since I have another 55k before the TB change. It really gave me confidence that I can do it and I will.
So my question is how much time should I set aside to do it? How long did it take you, without taking into account the picture taking and writing of the pdf?
 
#13 ·
Re: How long did it take

svezarov said:

So my question is how much time should I set aside to do it? How long did it take you, without taking into account the picture taking and writing of the pdf?
I don't know the exact hours but you should be able to knock it out in a day. A lot of time can be wasted if you do not have everything you need readily available - tools and materials.
I would think with the write up and all proper items available, 6 hours should do it. I learned a few things the hard way. Hopefully the write up will allow folks to go a more direct route.
The write up took at least as long as the procedure!
 
#15 ·
Yikes! I just looked it over for the first time since I released it. I have some clean up to do. I will try to get the update done this weekend. All minor stuff.
 
#16 ·
Awesome work! Thanks for taking the time to post.

You didn't replace the hydraulic tensioner? It's always a good move to swap that out along w/ the idler and tensioner pulleys. Those are what wipe-out a T-belt. Not the belt itself.

Man you gotta love Honda water pumps with the O-ring seal. Soooo much nicer than busting your knuckes trying to scrape off the cured RTV sealant most manufacturers use.

Joel
 
#17 ·
MTPockets08 said:

You didn't replace the hydraulic tensioner? It's always a good move to swap that out along w/ the idler and tensioner pulleys. Those are what wipe-out a T-belt. Not the belt itself.


Joel
Good question. My logic was that it is full of oil to dampen the spring. The spring is mechanical and should not fail. The bit of oil I found on my tensioner was not enough to alarm me. It is up to those changing the belt to make this decision.

Revision 1 is almost ready to release!
 
#18 · (Edited)
desmo888 said:
Good question. My logic was that it is full of oil to dampen the spring. The spring is mechanical and should not fail. The bit of oil I found on my tensioner was not enough to alarm me. It is up to those changing the belt to make this decision.

Revision 1 is almost ready to release!

I'm with ya. You have to set your limits somewhere in regards to how much you want to replace. Some people go as far as the cam and crank seals, even though they're not leaking. My experience with this exact type of hydraulic tensioner stems from the 1998-2004 Isuzu Rodeo / Honda Passport 3.2L. Once they weaken, they basically act like a worn out, bouncy old shock absorber. I know on the Rodeo/Passport, this would cause the T-belt to slacken enough to actually slap the inside of the plastic T-belt cover. It sounded like a horrible rod-knock and lots of owners mistook it for that. I don't know of any failures associated with this issue, but I'm sure it would eventually. These V6's were non-interference though.

Joel
 
#19 ·
MTPockets08 said:
Once they weaken, they basically act like a worn out, bouncy old shock absorber.

Thanks for your contribution of this information. I can see the scenario now that you have described it. I suppose the good news is that it can be changed without removing the timing belt. OF course removing the lower timing cover is no picnic.
For my personal situation (already done) I think I will bank on the seal in the tensioner being improved since the "Honda Rodeo" days. With your description I would have likely changed it. I will add your comments to the second release of the write-up.
 
#20 ·
Re: Re: Gen 3 Timing Belt Write Up is Here!

dvpatel said:

We can stick this thread but not many folks do their own Timing Belt changes.


Yeah, but as more and more of the 05's start hitting 100k+ miles, this maintenance is going to get a lot of questions. Plus when cars/trucks hit this kind of mileage, people are going to start selling them off to people looking for a good budget van and who are DIY'ers for stuff like this. Just my opinion. Until there is a tech section, a sticky would be good.

Thanks much for this very comprehensive writeup. I'll be tackling this soon and was hoping you'd get this finished. Amazing, the part about the "special tool." Also, I have to think there is a cam lock tool out there to keep the cams from moving. I know there's one for my volvo.

One question: Do you have the torque specs on the various bolts? Could that be added to the article?
 
#21 ·
Re: Re: Re: Gen 3 Timing Belt Write Up is Here!

Dan A said:




One question: Do you have the torque specs on the various bolts? Could that be added to the article?
Hi Dan,
Was it you that emailed me for this request? It is a good point and I am adding them to the first revision.
The crank bolt is the only one I used the torque wrench on. But, it is good to include the numbers for those that wish to use the proper torque on all the fasteners.
 
#23 · (Edited)
desmo888,

GREAT write-up, fantastic photos, procedure.

I need to add my 2 cents. Whenever one performs a TB change at 100K+ miles in any car, it is recommended that in addition to the TB, one should do the following because one is "already there":

- Crankshaft Seal (not changed in this DIY)
- Camshaft Seals x 2 (not changed in this DIY)

- Idler Pulley (this was changed in this DIY).
- Tensioner Pulley (this was changed in this DIY).
- Hydraulic Tensioner (not changed in this DIY)

- Water Pump (this was changed in this DIY).

- Serpentine Belt (not changed but easy to change later if needed)
- Serpentine Belt Pulley(s) & Tensioners.

One particular item that may "bite you in the butt" later is the hydraulic tensioner. Some people in the Volvo forum learned it the hard way, they replaced TB, idle pulley, tensioner pulley but did not replace the hydraulic tensioner, which failed at 110-120K or so, then the whole cylinder head is ruined.

Therefore, I am one of those who believe in the "whole 9 yards", whenever I do a TB, I do a complete job as mentioned above!

Anyway, thanks for DIY, nice photos!
 
#24 ·
re: cnn post. FWIW. On the V6's, oil seals at that end rarely leak. I never change them unless already leaking.
The tensioners are oil filled and fail at any time. Change it!!!
Idler pulley is durable, re-use. I would always do the water pump and tensioner with the t-belt. The rest is up to you.

Just another internet 2 cents. ;)
 
#25 ·
All Oil seals eventually leak, it depends on mfg and mileage.
Some oil seals leak at 50K miles, some last to 200K miles.

My point is one is "already there", do it and sleep well for the next 100K miles ha!

Now for those with engineering mind and wonder how Hydraulic Tensioner works, go to U.S. Patent Office website, and enter the Aisin patent Number 5,833,563 and read for fun.

http://patft.uspto.gov/netahtml/PTO/search-bool.html
 
#26 ·
Also, for those who want to read about Hydraulic Tensioner: it is basically like a car suspension with a spring + strut (to absorb sudden shock).

In the Hydraulic Tensioner, the spring maintains the proper tension. The oil works like a strut to absorb sudden changes in TB tension.

Here is a very good link to read on how Hydraulic Tensioner works, perhaps dvpatel can help host this file as a pdf (just in case they remove this pdf from their web page in the future!):

http://www.gates.com/europe/file_sa...dule&file=TB 011_E2_Hydraulic_Tensioners.pdf.

I am attaching a picture for a quick read.
 

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