Replacing 2006 sliding door rear latch

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Thread: Replacing 2006 sliding door rear latch

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    upstate new york

    Replacing 2006 sliding door rear latch

    I had searched for someone else's write-up before attempting the R&R on my left sliding door rear latch, but either I am the first to tackle this job or my search capabilities are limited. In any case, it wasn't a difficult job, even in a 20 degree F garage. You will need to unlatch the seat. I turned it to face the door and moved it over against the other one so I would have a place to sit while I worked. I was also doing this job after dark, so I had a small penlight to shine in the tight spaces where it was difficult to see. Actually, I think working after dark was an advantage, as it made it easier to see under the edge of the door panel as I loosened it, as the clips are bright white in color, and there was no sun to blind me as I peered into the door panel. Lastly, you will be working with the door partially open and also closed, so you will have to get in and out of the car several times. Having the door handle in your coat pocket is convenient when you have to reattach it temporarily to open the door.

    Here are the steps:

    1- Remove the clip on the inside door handle. It rides in a groove in the collar of the handle, and a dental tool or other small pick is just what you need to remove it. Simply insert the fine tip under the clip and then work the tool to the bottom where you can pry the clip down and it will fly off and be lost. No worries, though, as the door handle has a real tight fit, and will work just fine until you pass a Honda dealer and can buy a new one. (Of course, you can always place a rag underneath and catch it, but that eliminates part of the fun of this sort of job.)
    2- Carefully work the handle off, prying gently if need be. Place the handle on the interior floor where it will be in your way and possibly get kicked under the car, or save yourself the time and just throw it under the car now. Be sure to throw it just out of reach, and if the floor is covered with melting snow and slushy water, so much the better. Seriously, you will need this several times to open the door, so put it in your pocket or somewhere close.
    3- Fold a piece of duct or gorilla tape over the tip of a wide bladed screwdriver, and use this to pop out the plastic clips holding the trim around the window. They pop off pretty easily, and you want to work the tip as close as possible to each clip, and then twist slightly to apply a lifting motion to the clip itself, and not just pry off the plastic trim. If you use a nasty old screwdriver with a rusty and pitted shaft, you may extend this exercise into a lesson on how to use touch up paint. If you prefer to skip the touch up lesson, watch how you pry.
    4- Once the plastic window trim is off, stow it safely out of the way, and carefully pry out the plastic clips which remained stuck in the door and did not come off with the trim. You will need to reattach these to the trim before reinstalling it.
    5- The bottom panel also has clips, and you want to start at the bottom edge of the door and pop these off, then work your way up each side. There is one clip in the center of the door, and I used both hands on each side of the loosened trim to pull, as I could better judge if I was about to break something. Also, a screwdriver is of no help at all on this clip, as it lies almost dead center in the panel out of reach. Once the clips are all popped out, wiggle the panel upward to unhook it from where it hangs over the window junction. Mine pulled up and off with a minimal amount of tugging. Unhook the wire connector for the electric window. It wiggles out. Set the panel aside in a safe location. Now is a good time to take a break and search some more for that lost door handle clip that went flying in step 1. You won't find it of course, but the effort gets you out of the car and lets you stretch a bit before the next step.
    6- Time to go back outside with your 10mm socket and remove the 3 bolts holding on the rear latch. Lay these down in an unusual location so that you will have to search a bit to find them later on. The thrill of their discovery after much frustrated effort will leave you feeling like you have accomplished something important, and isn't this, after all, the real reason we all love to work on our cars?
    7- There is one more 10mm bolt inside the door toward the lower left hand corner. Remove this one, being sure to let the bracket it holds fall to the bottom of the inside of the door. You can use a stick or wire or something similar with a wad of sticky tape on it later on to retrieve the bracket. Option two is to hold it as you unbolt it and wiggle it down and then out.
    8- There are two black plastic clips that hold the cable which operates the rear latch. Use pliers and pull them out. Being somewhat absent-minded, I used a Sharpie pen to draw an arrow at each hole they came out of, since there are several to choose from. Next, unclip the white curved latch which covers the ends of the cable where they terminate in a white plastic tip. Then unsnap the beige plastic keeper that holds the L-shaped metal end of the cable in place and pivot it down so that you can pull the cable end free.
    9- The rear latch assembly is a one piece assortment of molded plastic and metal. Look at the new one you bought to get an idea of what you are trying to remove. Some care is necessary here, as the window track needs to be gently pushed out of the way so that the widest part of the latch housing can clear it to come out. Begin this by popping out the black plastic tab that is holding the upper right hand corner of the assembly in place. Then use one hand to push the window track toward the outside of the door from underneath as you wiggle the latch assembly to the right and out. It will take some patience, and if you don't cut yourself on the sharp edges in there you aren't trying hard enough.
    10- Use a greasy rag to mop up the blood on your knuckles, preferably with some fresh solvent on it to wake you up, and then go get the new latch assembly off the bench. It goes in the opposite of what you just did, except you will probably be donating some more blood here. The tricky part is to push the window track back to get the assembly started, and then push the window track about an inch to the right, creep the latch to the left this amount, and repeat this until the window track gets by the thick part and rests down in the narrower section where it belongs. Snap the upper right hand black clip into place, and go look for those three bolts that you put in an inconspicuous place. You can also have another go at finding the door handle clip if you are especially sadistic.
    11- Us a screwdriver on some other tool to line the latch up with the slot and then get the three bolts started. Tighten those suckers up good and snug, and head back to the inside of the van.
    12- Reattach the bracket you fished out of the bottom of the door with the bolt and washer. One hand will have to slip it into place, and the other will have to start the bolt. The bracket has a profile like the letter "C", open on one side and closed on the other. The closed side goes toward the back of the car as you slide it up and over the end of the window track.
    13- Snap the two black plastic cable clips into the holes with the arrows which you drew pointing at them. Then slide the plastic cable housing tip into the second slot down where the other one came out, and pivot up the white plastic arm and snap it in place. Now put the L-shaped cable end into the hole where it goes, pivot the beige plastic keeper up and into place until it snaps over the cable tip.
    14- Go back outside and slide the door closed to test the latch. If you have a droplight and leave its cord hanging just right, you can slam it in the door and burst the bulb and bend the bulb holder. It may take several tries, but an experienced weekend mechanic such as myself can usually get it the first time.
    15- Once you have established that everything functions correctly, you can wiggle the upper edge of the door panel down into place next to the glass, then pop the lower door panel into place, followed by the upper window trim and the door handle. Don't forget to hook the electrical connector up for the electric window, although it probably will bind now that you have messed around with the channel in the door. There is, of course, one less step to reassembly, as you lost the clip for the door handle hours ago.
    16- Retest the door to make sure the door closes securely and both the inside and outside door handles work. If your electric window also works correctly without getting stuck, stop further testing immediately and go purchase a lottery ticket. You can always put your tools away and look for that door handle clip when you get back.

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  3. #2
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    United States
    I found the following links at youtube demonstrate how to replace the rear slide door handle, which are very helpful too.

  4. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    South Carolina
    Great article!!! just used this info to repair opposite door on a 2005. Good advice, wonderful attitude. job took 2 hours- saved almost $550 dollars in labor costs. Seriously, $700 at my local Honda dealership. I bought the part for $158 and did the work myself. I prefer ordering my genuine Honda parts from Brad at (303) 443-0530. Believe it or not, i get better phone support and a better price ordering from Boulder, CO than here in Myrtle Beach, SC.

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  6. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    this article is still helpful. I had a disconnected cable from the inside handle to the rear latch. (If anyone looking at this article got to this point by not being able to open the sliding door, it might help to know that i was able to remove the inside door lining of my Honda Odyssey while in the closed position despite it being very tight up against the weatherstripping. I never found an article or video showing how to do this or if this was even possible.

    I already had the opposite good door's lining removed to use as a guinea pig and reference (worth doing and only took a couple minutes after watching some youtube videos to build my confidence). I even tried unsuccessfully removing the threshold of the closed door because that's the area that is tightest.

    I was able to break/pull the white keeper clips along the top and sides of the bad door lining just by pulling around the edges and pulling on the cupholder.

    I eventually took a crowbar and a couple of thin steel flat plates (picture the shape of a kid's ruler) and used them to apply pressure upwards under the magazine rack/cupholder on the lining to break the white keeper clips that were holding the lining in place ( I used the "rulers" to disperse the pressure of the crowbar and avoid damaging the lining and the threshold I was pushing against. picture a sandwich of METAL PLATE, CROWBAR HOOK, METAL PLATE. The lining then lifted up off the top lip along the window sill (I already had the black molding around teh window removed (thanks again youtube).

    I ended up finding this how-to article at this point when I realized the rear latch cable was broken. Until now, I didn't realize the latch assemble was as big as it is and able to be removed. I followed the above directions. removied the latch assembly and MacGyver'd the cable back on to the latch release thingamabobs. I would love to pay it forward so if anyone needs more details, contact me at

  7. #5
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Columbus Ohio
    I am replying so I can find this later when I replace my latch assembly.

  8. #6
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Madison, WI
    Does anyone have pictures for how to do this for a 2010 LX? I can find all kinds of pictures/videos online for the EX, but with the EX being motorized and the LX being manual, I'm not sure what all the difference are, plus I'm more of a visual learner.

    The drivers' side sliding door wouldn't close last night on our LX and it was cold/snowy/raining out. I drove it into the dealer this morning (with the help of bungee cords), and after warming up at the dealer, the door works fine. I'm guessing it will happen again, so I'd like to learn how to replace the rear latch on the LX.

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