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VCM Long Term Reliability

351K views 528 replies 112 participants last post by  kaimanson  
#1 ·
Now that it's been like 6 years since Honda came out with it's VCM technology in the Ody, has anyone heard of any major issues with its reliability? Does anyone know of any VCM Odys that have gone over 200K miles without problem?

I'm just wondering because I know the normal J35 Honda engines are solid as a rock... just not sure if VCM equipped ones are the same. I just always have had this feeling that it can't be good for the cylinders to wear unevenly like that (since half the cylinders are not firing all the time, they are subjected to less stress and wear).

Anyone have any ideas or insight?
 
#3 ·
Also, it is questionable that the VCM by itself saves any gasoline.
Here is an example of engineers trying to defy the law of Physics with no success!
So if you can stay away from VCM, do so.
I am happy I don't have VCM, which IMHO a piece of failed technology.
 
#4 ·
I totally agree the VCM is a waste... doesn't save enough gas to justify the added complexity. If I had the option to NOT get VCM, I would have, but unfortunately, all EX-Ls and Touring had it and I wanted the extra features in those trim levels.

And as far as I know, there is no easy way to disable VCM via a fuse or software or anything is there?
 
#5 ·
I have successfully disabled VCM on my 2008 Odyssey Touring by pulling the connector off of the rocker arm oil pressure sensor. The only consequence seems to be that the check engine light comes on. Mileage seems unaffected. This sensor is on the drivers end of the rear cylinder head. Don't confuse it with the VCM solenoid nearby.
I had taken the car in to honda once to have them fix the annoying vibrations. They failed. I can see why. The list of things that could cause excessive vibration in 3 cylinder mode is quite long. The dealers are not prepared to troubleshoot problems this complex. Better to just turn it off. I now have the car I thought I was buying.

FYI.
 
#7 ·
IMO VCM is only worth it if you have the MID that gives you the real-time calculated fuel mileage so you know for sure when it is in operation and can drive to keep it engaged. For some people that's probably too much work and then VCM probably is a waste. For me, I got 28 MPG on my last drive here from Iowa so I'm not complaining. How much complexity does it add really? I mean mechanically it's just a tweak to what's already there with the standard vtec, right? That's what it looked like to me from looking at the FSM anyway.
 
#97 · (Edited)
I have now had my 2008 Odyssey Ex-l for 5 years now (just paid the last payment two months ago ironically). In town there is no benefit for the VCM I agree but that is not where it shines.

I now have 47,000 miles on the van and on long trips to Grandma/Grandpa's house, which we take every other month is 400 miles round trip, I get regularly 26-28 mpg. If I keep my speed 60-65 I get consistently 28 mpg no questions asked. I take it 70-80 it will give me 25 mpg no problem. That 5-10 mpg makes a big difference with the VCM.

So I think it is worth it.


ALSO, I have friends with 1-3 year old Sienna's that can't touch my mpg and vocally tell me how jealous they are about my mpg. Each one of them has told me they average low twenties and have never seen above 25 mpg once.

I'll trade 20 hp for 3 mpg no problem.
 
#8 ·
wrong wrong wrong. has anyone studied the theory of the combustion engine with computer control????? Pistons go up and down valves open and close, spark fires at 1 or 2 points in the 4 stroke cycle. aaaand. the INJECTORS PEOPLE!!!! the injector squirts fuel into the cylinder on the compression stroke. so you have disabled the oil pressure adjuster solenoid for the VCM huh? do you know that that does? It applies oil pressure to the valve train components to allow the valves to "not" close all the way when the cylinders are turned off. You are not disabling the injectors, or the spark, or allowing the cleaning of the unburned fuel that is being dumped in to your catalysts behind all this process. your cats are on fire and possibly glowing red while driving. cats are more than a grand each. you have 4 sometimes 6 depending on the model. unburned fuel does burn into carbon deposits and causes pinging and detonation which tells your ECM to retard the timing to prevent destruction to your engine. I' bet if I scanned your car and watched the fuel trim in your engine it would be sooo far rich which in turn would show soo far lean since your engine doesn't want unburned fuel that i'd laugh. You are killing your car and honestly unless you designed the car you drive just leave it alone or take it to someone who has a clue.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Exactly. Keep your shirt on Zymol! (I'm kidding)

Disabling any component of the VCM system deactivates the whole system.

Regardless, if I had the choice, I'd go non-VCM. There's extra cycling of the torque converter lockup and extra wear on that rear engine mount like said. There is some fuel savings with it, but for the average owner it's minimal.

Joel
 
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#11 ·
The thing I'd worry least about with VCM is extra wear on the "always on" cylinders vs. the ones that VCM shuts down, so to speak. At the end of the life of the engine, those cylinders that are shut down at times might (maybe) look a bit cleaner, but all of the moving parts within the cylinder are still moving in de-activated mode. There might be a long-term difference in wear-effect on the valvetrain, because that's (in my understanding) where the moving parts are that essentially stop moving when VCM is operating. My knowledge of the system is nowhere near the two posters above (presently at odds, so it seems), though.

Nate
 
#12 ·
Here are links to a pair of pictures of the rocker arm oil pressure sensor.

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp302/cmoswizard/bigpicture.jpg

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp302/cmoswizard/Sensor.jpg

The arrows point to the sensor. Both it and the connector are capped off with tape and tie wrapped to prevent dirt getting into the connection. The sensor cable is also tie wrapped to prevent vibration damage.

I'm not recommending that everyone do this. Just noting that it is possible.
Removing the engine cover can also be challenging. Two front screws counterclockwise 1/4 turn and then lift the back at the 3/4 point directly vertical. Wiggle it. Don't force it. It can break.
 
#95 ·
#14 ·
Sorry I dipped out Ive been too busy for the net in the last week or so... I did re-read "MY" post and yes, I misreplied as you did state the sensor not the solenoid. So what? now your MIL is on and you have no idea when other DTC occur and could be causing unfortunate consequences. So retract my post I will not.
If you did not want VCM I have 2 words for you: Toyota Sienna. I bought the Odyessy because it handles waaay better than the Sienna in all trim and technology levels and am mostly sad that I cannot have AWD. Sienna does. VCM to me is... "ehh whatever". I mean really. It's a Honda. Like it won't go 200k anyway? ...and when it gets there my kids will have destroyed the damn thing too. We've had it 3 months and already my 11 yr old caught his shirt on the rear "Ody" emblem and broke it. My neighbor kid gouged the paint on the pass door with his bike and the first week we had it my wife hit a construction barrel thing in the middle of I-75 at 2am. So now I am de-badged and have seen my body guy 2x and am considering the lower spoiler for the front end to hide a crack in the lower edge of the bumper (which costs more than a grand!! btw) If anything this van is a beast! LONG live the Ody!! I may even name her. lol.
 
#26 ·
A proposal to disable VCM!

cmoswizard said:
The arrows point to the sensor. Both it and the connector are capped off with tape and tie wrapped to prevent dirt getting into the connection. The sensor cable is also tie wrapped to prevent vibration damage.

I'm not recommending that everyone do this. Just noting that it is possible.
Removing the engine cover can also be challenging. Two front screws counterclockwise 1/4 turn and then lift the back at the 3/4 point directly vertical. Wiggle it. Don't force it. It can break.


cmoswizard and onlyahead,

I finally had some time to study the Honda Technical Manual on VCM. There are some requirements for the VCM to kick in:
1. Low engine load
2. Cruising speed
3. And lastly, there has to be enough oil pressure.

- Without enough oil pressure, the VCM will not activate because there is simply not enough oil pressure to operate the VCM solenoid.

- Note that at the REAR cylinder head, there are 2 distinct items:

a. VCM Solenoid (2-prong connector) and

b. Oil Pressure Sensor (3-prong connector)
- The OPS is not a typical Oil Pressure SWITCH (such as used in Engine Oil Dash light, which is an On-Off switch only); instead it is more or less a Oil Pressure SENSOR, which is basically a rheostat, having different resistances (measured in Ohm) with different oil pressures.
- With different Oil Pressures, it sends different voltages to the computer.

Below is purely hypothetical, for example:
1. Engine OFF: OPS Resistance is let's say 0.5 Ohms
2. Engine Idling: Engine is 700 rpm, Oil pressure is 30 psi, OPS Resistance is 2 Ohms, voltage to PCM is 1.5 Volts.
3. Cruising at 60 mph: Engine is 2200 rpm; Oil pressure is 60 psi, OPS Resistance is 4 Ohms, voltage to PCM is 3.0 Volts.

- When you disconnect OPS connector (as cmoswizard did), the computer will register a fault (DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code) because it senses an "Open" circuit.

- What I propose below is how to disable the VCM without having a CEL light on your dahsboard. Anyone doing this, please post feedback for the group so we can learn!

---------

1. OK, I looked and found for 2007 Odyssey EXL with VCM, the PN for the OPS is 37260-PZA-003.
It has bolt thread of M10 x 1.25 (see pic below).

2. Go to a hardware store and buy a "dummy" bolt M10 x 1.25 x 10 mm.
Check your OPS to be sure you need a bolt length of 10 mm.

3. Remove the OPS, keep the O-ring (washer).

4. Install the dummy bolt + O-ring (washer) and tighten it to spec.
This effectively seals the OPS hole so oil does not squirt out!

5. Now: re-attach the OPS to the connector (3-prong).
Cap the end with tape/zip tie to avoid dirt from entering the OPS.
By leaving the OPS attached to the wiring, this simulates an "Engine OFF" situation, which still sends some "voltage signal" to the PCM.
This way the PCM thinks:
a. The circuit is OK (i.e. no breach of the circuit)
b. "Sees" this as "not enough engine oil pressure" and
c. Therefore will not activate the VCM.

Hey this mod only costs $1 (the price of the "dummy" bolt)!


What do you all think of this simple mod to defeat the VCM?



 
#19 ·
Isn't there a more harmless error you all can trigger? ECO and VCM is disabled with any CEL. So, come up with a more harmess and easier CEL and try that may be?
 
#21 ·
#23 ·
I bought today 2 mounts: REAR and RIGHT. Got the problem with REAR...

FRONT:
2005-2007 Honda Odyssey Engine Motor Mount Front 50830-SHJ-A01 Hydraulic #4526 | eBay

RIGHT:
05-07 Honda Odyssey 2009-2012 Honda Pilot Right Engine Motor Mount #4555 | eBay

If front mounts on VTEC and i-VTEC engines have the same look and fixture but rear mounts are very differ. I simply can't by non active mount OEM.
For the rear that one looks like the only one on a aftermarket that will fit but DEA mentions that it supports i-VTEC technology (or it only means that it can be installed in place of active mount):
DEA PRODUCTS A4583 Motor/Engine Mount | eBay
Tried to contact DEA through e-mail (it's the only contact on the official web site deaproducts.com) - no answer...
 
#24 ·
Is it possible that you just happened to bump your VSA disable button inside and that explains the VSA disabled message?
I don't know why you are changing your engine mounts unless one of them is damaged. I didn't do anything with the mounts except verify their integrity. I have put about 3000 miles on my vehicle since disabling VCM. I get about 23 mpg on average with some highway driving. I certainly WISH there was a software mod to disable VCM. Every once in a while my engine reaches operating temp while I am going about 35 mph uphill and there is this horrible vibration for about one second and then back to nice and quiet. It is the VCM activating and then shutting down after it checks the rocker arm oil pressure sensor that I disabled. First I curse Honda for causing the problem and then smile knowing I defeated them. Ha.
I am just astonished and appalled that Honda is still doing this on their newest cars. It is possible my vehicle has a stuck rocker arm locking piston or something but I am not going to tear it down to find out when I can solve multiple problems by defeating VCM completely. I took it in to a dealer once to have them fix it. They didn't so forget them.
 
#25 ·
For those of you who love VCM, read no further!


For those of you who think VCM is a waste of engineering effort and a waste of consumer money, add your 2 cents in this youtube video. Hopefully Honda will listen to you guys (tell them this is another PAX tire failure!), here you go the video by Honda bragging about VCM on the Honda Pilot (same engine as Odyssey):



 
#27 ·
CNN: I think this sounds like a fine idea. You logic appears sound to me. I have an 05 Touring and I've noticed that there is a bit of a "shudder" or vibration when the VCM cycles on or off. Keep us posted if you try it! I have way too many irons in the fire at this time to start another project.
 
#29 ·
Snowman,

I have a 2007 LX, so no VCM. But I did this research for other forum members who are fed up with VCM issues.
This is such a simple mod that costs only $1!!!

Worst-case scenario, you can always go back to factory setup (simply remove the "dummy" bolt and plug the OPS back in).
But I have a strong conviction that this mod will work.

So we need one (may be a few) guinea pig(s)..... now who wants to try this mod?
Please raise your hands LOL.