Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 Sensor CONNECTOR: how to get it to let go
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Thread: Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 Sensor CONNECTOR: how to get it to let go

  1. #1
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    Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 Sensor CONNECTOR: how to get it to let go

    Hi guys, doing the Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor on a 2006 VCM 3.5, the pre cat, rear (firewall) O2 sensor.

    I got the sensor to break free no sweat, but I have a shredded right forearm and a tired left hand, and I have found no way to get the electrical connector to break free.

    Its in a weird spot, naturally, and I can't get pliers or ViseGrips on the connector to pull it down while I release the catch tang with my right hand.

    How in the hell do I get a stubborn Bank 1 Sensor 1 electrical connector loose on a 2006 3.5 in a 2006 Odyssey?

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  3. #2
    Registered User mjody's Avatar
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    There is a flat tang the connector attaches to. You must lift the release tab on the sensor end of the connector and slide it towards the sensor to release it from the tang. Once free push the bigger tab to separate the connector.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mjody View Post
    There is a flat tang the connector attaches to. You must lift the release tab on the sensor end of the connector and slide it towards the sensor to release it from the tang. Once free push the bigger tab to separate the connector.
    So there are more than one little pivot tab / tang thing for me to pry open in order for the connector to come free?

  5. #4
    Registered User mjody's Avatar
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    Yes two release tabs. One to free from metal bracket one for connector to wire harness. The one to free from bracket is under the connector one the bracket side. Sorry it is hard to explain on the internet without a pic.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mjody View Post
    Yes two release tabs. One to free from metal bracket one for connector to wire harness. The one to free from bracket is under the connector one the bracket side. Sorry it is hard to explain on the internet without a pic.
    Thanks a lot - will report back with details to help future generations once I figure it out!

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    Hi! I am having the exact same problem (complete with shredded hands) and wish you had reported back with more details. Guess I'll just have to figure it out like you did!
    Last edited by jambo1; 05-08-2013 at 07:55 PM.

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    After much searching, I finally found a similar situation with a photo at the following link:
    E-130: DIY-Oxygen (O2) Sensor Installation - Rear Upstream A/F aka P2251 - AcuraZine Community
    In case the link changes, the relevant part is copied here:


    Quote:
    Remove the old O2 sensor
    5. Find sensor - it's located in Bank 1 of the engine, on the passenger side, between the engine and firewall. You'll see it - trust me. The sensor is pointed towards the ground, with wires pointed in the air.
    6. The sensor unscrews with an O2 socket wrench, or (if you're lucky like me) a large adjustable wrench. A socket wrench or adjustable wrench will fit down there, so lean against the passenger fender (cover it with a workmat if you have one), and get your head and arms in there. Some (like me) had better luck with a warm engine, but it's just an option. Lefty-loosey...and once you get some give, don't unscrew it all the way.
    7. Now unclip the harness - there are two mounting points, (i) a piggytailed clip facing the engine, and (ii) the standard O2 sensor harness clip facing the cabin. Do the one facing the engine first - push the metal piece away from the harness, towards the engine, and slide off the O2 sensor harness off the piggytailed connection. Now that the harness is free, you can easily unclip the harness. Unscrew the rest of the way, and remove.
    * Unfortunately, I spent the most time on this because I didn't realize there were two clips holding it to the car. Once I removed the piggytailed connection, the other one was easy.

    Unquote

    I know this is not exact, but it gave me a good enough idea to get mine loose after a few hours of trying! After that it's easy, and the car is running better, the CEL is off, and passed state inspection. Probably improved mileage as well! BTW, wait at least 100 miles before getting inspected or the computer will say "Not Ready" on the F/A sensor reading.

  9. #8
    DrD
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    That picture really helped me out - it seems to be almost impossible to unplug the oxygen sensor without removing it from the bracket. I was pushing down on the rotten tab for some reason, but once I saw the pic it made sense and it came right apart - once you have the two connectors free from the bracket, they come apart easily (I thought they were bound up with dirt, but that was not the case)

    van started throwing P2251 and P0134, so I was thinking maybe a bad connection. The cables look fine, and both connectors (engine harness and oxygen sensor) looked good - I cleaned them out with connector cleaner just the same, dried them out and remated them - we'll see if the code comes back. If it does, the sensor needs replaced, I guess. (for a while, the car would throw P0420 or the combination above, but my wife said it was usually after hitting a bump on the highway, so I thought maybe a bad connection. If it's not there, I shudder to think how fun it's going to be to chase down a pinched harness somewhere else in the engine compartment...

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    I found this helped a lot:

    1) Study the new sensor - note the location you need to depress to release it from the metal tab.
    2) No the bump on the other side, this is where the the other 1/2 of the connector latches.
    3) The biggest help for me was to unplug the front pre-cat sensor. That way you get to actually see/feel how the sensor gets release from the tab and how to separate the two halves.

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    DrD
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    Well, codes are back so I ordered up the replacement sensor. bummer. On the bright side, it looks like getting it out shouldn't be too much of a chore.

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    Borow a crowfoot O2 sensor wrench from some place like AutoZone if you can. With the right tool the hardest part of the job is getting to the electrical connector.

  13. #12
    DrD
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    Oh - I am all set for tools (I have an offset oxygen sensor socket as well as a tall inline sensor socket (I actually prefer the latter, as it's less likely to rock off the sensor when cranking on it)) - as long as the threads aren't too badly bound up, it should come right out (I'll hit it with a little pb blaster and let it sit for a bit before I put a tool on it) - on other cars I have worked on, it's been more of a challenge access-wise (the front sensor on a 2.0L WRX is an example - it's in the exhaust manifold, and is angled a bit, so access is very limited.

  14. #13
    DrD
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    That had to be the easiest oxygen sensor removal I have ever done! No penetrant needed or anything, it just came right out! I ended up using an inline (tall style) sensor socket - I think access is actually better for that. I removed the center coil pack (otherwise the socket would have rested against it) and it came right out. I checked the front sensor to see if it was held in there similarly, and it came loose easily as well. Torque spec is only 33 ft-lbs, and it looks like they actually had it torqued to spec! The new sensor came with anti-seize on the threads, but most of it had fallen off in the bag so I re-applied some (if anyone else is doing the same, make sure the stuff you use is marked sensor-safe - otherwise as the carrier burns off, or if you get some on the sensor head and it then burns off, the decomposition products can damage the sensor element)

    Hoping the sensor fixes the codes and it isn't damage elsewhere on the wiring harness! (I figure at 172k miles it's pretty normal to have an oxygen sensor go south)

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    DrD: Did the CE light go off?

    I was having trouble with the connector for the front pre-cat sensor: just pried it off, tearing off a side of the connector. Nylon-tied it back onto it's tab.

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