DIY: Front Lock Actuator Replacement (2007 Honda Odyssey LX)
My 2007 Ody LX Front Passenger failed in the “closed” position, so we could not open the door from inside or outside!
In order to replace the Lock Actuator, the door needs to be opened so the trim panel can be removed.
I have learned from BMW forum that in this case, sometimes the dealer have to damage the interior trim panel to get to the lock! I also learned from other BMW owners that sometimes the electric motor (inside the Actuator) has a few more cycles before it dies completely. So be patient before you destroy your Trim Panel.
The Ody door was shut and I was depressed b/c I could not open the door to fix it. After praying like crazy, I used my fist and banged on the front passenger door a few times. Then I pressed the “lock/unlock” button on the key remote a few times, all of a sudden the knob popped back up for the last time! Consider myself lucky!
PART/TOOL:
- Front Passenger Lock Actuator PN 72115-S6A-J11…$37
- Front Driver Lock Actuator PN 72155-S5P-A11…$42 (from what I understand the driver side actuator rarely goes bad)
- Phillips screwdriver
- Flat screwdriver
- 10-mm socket
- Molding removal tool (or use flat screwdriver wrapped in cloth)
- Hook Tool
- Optional: Loctite
PROCEDURE:
- Wash your hand before you touch the trim panel.
- Get a small box to keep all the nuts/bolts etc. It is easy to lose track of these small parts.
- Extra clips for trim panel; PN is 91560-S84-A01. They are white color clips, much cheaper on ebay, don’t buy from dealer!
1. Remove Upper Corner Trim (just pull it straight out), then remove screws #1, #2, #3 as shown.
2. Screw #4 is hidden underneath the window switch trim piece. So use a flat screwdriver wrapped in cloth and gently pry the window switch trim piece. D/C the electrical connector to the window switch. Now remove screw #4.
3. Now, wash your hands and lift the Trim Panel straight up. The book says to remove the cable to the interior handle, I did it the “ghetto” way: I left the cable alone but used the bungee cord to hold the Trim Panel in place.
4. Now, slowly peel the Vapor Barrier back, it is held in place by “Butyl Rope”.
Remove the 10-mm bolt holding the Window Guide.
Pull the Window Guide downward and remove it.
5. Now remove the 4 screws as shown: three(3) screws holding the lock assembly and one (1) screw holding the plastic rail for the knob.
6. Squeeze on the clip to undo the electrical wire holder, then squeeze the connector to disconnect it from the Actuator.
7. Next step is IMPORTANT: the book says remove the whole assembly from the car, but this involves undoing the lock rods etc. I was not in the mood to do that, thus the “ghetto” way again:
- Gently lift the white plastic cover a bit
- Remove the small screw holding the metal plate
- The Lock Actuator is held by two (2) white plastic tabs: just study the anatomy of the new part and you will see what I mean. Use a hook tool to gently lift up the white tabs to release the Lock Actuator.
8. Replace the Lock Actuator: this is straightforward but during insertion make sure the white oval wheel (see the very 1st photo) fits in the slot. You can pull up and down the door knob to make it fit.
- Don’t forget to re-attach the small screw and snap the white cover back in place.
RE-INSTALLATION NOTE:
- Window Guide: use a flash light to look upward inside the door. The Window Guide has to fit in the proper channel so the glass can go down properly. Re-install the 10-mm bolt.
- Reseal the Vapor Barrier: go slow and make sure it is sealed properly.
- The Trim Panel: there are a total of 9 plastic clips. Install the Trim Panel from the top first, make sure it is engaged properly before pushing the clips in.
- For the Lock Latch 3 screws: I used a bit of Loctite.
- Re-install the 4 screws (2 for Trim Panel, and 2 on the interior handle area).
- Re-connect the window switch and snap it in place.
- Test the lock with remote.
Congrats, you just saved 2h of labor charge at the Honda dealer.
That is it boys and girls!
My 2007 Ody LX Front Passenger failed in the “closed” position, so we could not open the door from inside or outside!
In order to replace the Lock Actuator, the door needs to be opened so the trim panel can be removed.
I have learned from BMW forum that in this case, sometimes the dealer have to damage the interior trim panel to get to the lock! I also learned from other BMW owners that sometimes the electric motor (inside the Actuator) has a few more cycles before it dies completely. So be patient before you destroy your Trim Panel.
The Ody door was shut and I was depressed b/c I could not open the door to fix it. After praying like crazy, I used my fist and banged on the front passenger door a few times. Then I pressed the “lock/unlock” button on the key remote a few times, all of a sudden the knob popped back up for the last time! Consider myself lucky!
PART/TOOL:
- Front Passenger Lock Actuator PN 72115-S6A-J11…$37
- Front Driver Lock Actuator PN 72155-S5P-A11…$42 (from what I understand the driver side actuator rarely goes bad)
- Phillips screwdriver
- Flat screwdriver
- 10-mm socket
- Molding removal tool (or use flat screwdriver wrapped in cloth)
- Hook Tool
- Optional: Loctite
PROCEDURE:
- Wash your hand before you touch the trim panel.
- Get a small box to keep all the nuts/bolts etc. It is easy to lose track of these small parts.
- Extra clips for trim panel; PN is 91560-S84-A01. They are white color clips, much cheaper on ebay, don’t buy from dealer!
1. Remove Upper Corner Trim (just pull it straight out), then remove screws #1, #2, #3 as shown.
2. Screw #4 is hidden underneath the window switch trim piece. So use a flat screwdriver wrapped in cloth and gently pry the window switch trim piece. D/C the electrical connector to the window switch. Now remove screw #4.
3. Now, wash your hands and lift the Trim Panel straight up. The book says to remove the cable to the interior handle, I did it the “ghetto” way: I left the cable alone but used the bungee cord to hold the Trim Panel in place.
4. Now, slowly peel the Vapor Barrier back, it is held in place by “Butyl Rope”.
Remove the 10-mm bolt holding the Window Guide.
Pull the Window Guide downward and remove it.
5. Now remove the 4 screws as shown: three(3) screws holding the lock assembly and one (1) screw holding the plastic rail for the knob.
6. Squeeze on the clip to undo the electrical wire holder, then squeeze the connector to disconnect it from the Actuator.
7. Next step is IMPORTANT: the book says remove the whole assembly from the car, but this involves undoing the lock rods etc. I was not in the mood to do that, thus the “ghetto” way again:
- Gently lift the white plastic cover a bit
- Remove the small screw holding the metal plate
- The Lock Actuator is held by two (2) white plastic tabs: just study the anatomy of the new part and you will see what I mean. Use a hook tool to gently lift up the white tabs to release the Lock Actuator.
8. Replace the Lock Actuator: this is straightforward but during insertion make sure the white oval wheel (see the very 1st photo) fits in the slot. You can pull up and down the door knob to make it fit.
- Don’t forget to re-attach the small screw and snap the white cover back in place.
RE-INSTALLATION NOTE:
- Window Guide: use a flash light to look upward inside the door. The Window Guide has to fit in the proper channel so the glass can go down properly. Re-install the 10-mm bolt.
- Reseal the Vapor Barrier: go slow and make sure it is sealed properly.
- The Trim Panel: there are a total of 9 plastic clips. Install the Trim Panel from the top first, make sure it is engaged properly before pushing the clips in.
- For the Lock Latch 3 screws: I used a bit of Loctite.
- Re-install the 4 screws (2 for Trim Panel, and 2 on the interior handle area).
- Re-connect the window switch and snap it in place.
- Test the lock with remote.
Congrats, you just saved 2h of labor charge at the Honda dealer.
That is it boys and girls!