7. Old compressor had very very small amount of oil (nothing draining out to the cup).
* Either PAG oil leaked out of the front seal (I think this is my case) or the oil is sucked out during Recovery phase (maybe the HVAC guru can chime in).
* The 5.5mm bolt deserves some mentioning! One came out fine. The other one is stripped. After some drilling/pounding with punch/hammer, it came out. So I used the good bolt for the “recessed area”, and a new generic M6 x 1.0 x 16mm bolt for the other area. It worked fine.

NOTE: Replace the 1/2-inch O-ring on this adaptor. Then transfer it to the new compressor.

8. From inspection of old compressor, I saw PAG oil behind the Stator, so this explains the repeated issues I had with the Clutch. Oil leaks out front seal and drips onto the clutch surface, causing slipping ---> burned clutch.

9. New compressor came with gap of 0.559 mm, I adjusted it down to 0.300 mm.
NOTE: when insert the feeler gauge, insert gently, do not force t, all you need is to insert it to a depth of about 3 mm

10. New compressor only had 50cc! The Denso people told me the new compressor comes with 100cc! The bottom line: do not trust anyone, do your own thing.
See the video below for proper technique (spin the shaft to drain the oil):

NOTE: Clean the measuring cup before draining oil from new compressor. Cleanliness is crucial! Once you drain the new compressor, add 4 oz of PAG-46 oil. Recap the opening (new compressor comes with rubber cap) because during install, debris may fall inside. Only disconnect the cap at the time when you connect the lines to the compressor.

INSTALL NOTE

* Make sure you use new O-rings (wet them with PAG Oil).

* Mount the compressor with the 12-mm bolts first, then connect the lines later.

* When you connect the lines to the compressor: pay attention!
Make sure the O-ring fits nice and squarely onto the compressor openings. Then snug the 10-mm bolt or 10-mm nut down. Otherwise, you WILL have a leak later. Follow the torque specs.

* Don’t forget the electrical connector snaps onto the radiator fan shroud. Make sure all wiring is out of the way of the rotating pulley!

* When refitting serpentine belt, read warning above!

* When you go back to the shop for recharge, ask to speak to the tech. Their usual procedure is: they add oil during R134a recharge using data from their computer!
---> Tell them you already have 4 oz of PAG Oil in the compressor. Also during the vacuum process (30-45 min down to 29 inches Hg or so), check to see any oil comes out. Usually a bit (maybe ½ oz) comes out because this is from the condenser). If a bit of oil comes out, you don’t need to add any oil b/c you already have 4 oz sitting in the compressor. If all 4 oz comes out (I doubt it), then you need to add oil.
The bottom line: when it is all said and done, there should be about 6 oz of PAG oil in the entire system.

* Once the system is vacuumed down with no leak, add R134a.

That is it boys and girls...

 

7. Old compressor had very very small amount of oil (nothing draining out to the cup).

• Either PAG oil leaked out of the front seal (I think this is my case) or the oil is sucked out during Recovery phase (maybe the HVAC guru can chime in).
• The 5.5mm bolt deserves some mentioning! One came out fine. The other one is stripped. After some drilling/pounding with punch/hammer, it came out. So I used the good bolt for the “recessed area”, and a new generic M6 x 1.0 x 16mm bolt for the other area. It worked fine.

View attachment 24842


View attachment 24850


NOTE: Replace the 1/2-inch O-ring on this adaptor. Then transfer it to the new compressor.


View attachment 24858


8. From inspection of old compressor, I saw PAG oil behind the Stator, so this explains the repeated issues I had with the Clutch. Oil leaks out front seal and drips onto the clutch surface, causing slipping ---> burned clutch.


View attachment 24866


9. New compressor came with gap of 0.559 mm, I adjusted it down to 0.300 mm.
NOTE: when insert the feeler gauge, insert gently, do not force t, all you need is to insert it to a depth of about 3 mm


View attachment 24874


10. New compressor only had 50cc! The Denso people told me the new compressor comes with 100cc! The bottom line: do not trust anyone, do your own thing.
See the video below for proper technique (spin the shaft to drain the oil):

NOTE: Clean the measuring cup before draining oil from new compressor. Cleanliness is crucial! Once you drain the new compressor, add 4 oz of PAG-46 oil. Recap the opening (new compressor comes with rubber cap) because during install, debris may fall inside. Only disconnect the cap at the time when you connect the lines to the compressor.


View attachment 24834


INSTALL NOTE

* Make sure you use new O-rings (wet them with PAG Oil).

* Mount the compressor with the 12-mm bolts first, then connect the lines later.

* When you connect the lines to the compressor: pay attention!
Make sure the O-ring fits nice and squarely onto the compressor openings. Then snug the 10-mm bolt or 10-mm nut down. Otherwise, you WILL have a leak later. Follow the torque specs.

* Don’t forget the electrical connector snaps onto the radiator fan shroud. Make sure all wiring is out of the way of the rotating pulley!

* When refitting serpentine belt, read warning above!

* When you go back to the shop for recharge, ask to speak to the tech. Their usual procedure is: they add oil during R134a recharge using data from their computer!
---> Tell them you already have 4 oz of PAG Oil in the compressor. Also during the vacuum process (30-45 min down to 29 inches Hg or so), check to see any oil comes out. Usually a bit (maybe ½ oz) comes out because this is from the condenser). If a bit of oil comes out, you don’t need to add any oil b/c you already have 4 oz sitting in the compressor. If all 4 oz comes out (I doubt it), then you need to add oil.
The bottom line: when it is all said and done, there should be about 6 oz of PAG oil in the entire system.

* Once the system is vacuumed down with no leak, add R134a.

That is it boys and girls...

Additional Information of DIY: 2007 Honda Odyssey AC Compressor Replacement
I replaced denso compressor and denso condenser in 2003 LX.

1. In order you don't accidental strip the 5.5 mm, use 5.5 mm only and take out compressor from the mounting first (4 bolts).
Then take out the the pipe that connect to condenser where basically you undo the nut 10 mm.
After that the 5.5 mm bolt access would free up.
Failing to do those 2 steps that's what caused the 5.5 mm head rounded
My 5.5 mm the head also rounded because I was trying to take out but the access is too tight. So it wasn't able to cover the whole head of the bolt 100%.
I was able to chisel out and replaced w/ OEM bolt again.

2. Now about the PAG oil capacity in the system, I have 2003 LX front and rear A/C.
I would recommended to used denso since that the closest OEM part without paying Honda brand.
You can call denso technical support 800 366-1123, explain what you are trying to do.
In my case: denso support told me:
The new compressor (part 4711276) came w/ 7.1 oz oil that's the standard amount of oil when the car is new.
So in denso compressor I only keep 2.5 oz.
then put 1.5 oz to condenser (I also added dye about 0.25 oz).
It's a lot easier to put the oil while condenser still laying on the ground.
Put the oil in the bottom hole then plug back in.
Then install the condenser.
I also use OEM honda seal (part no 80872-SN7-003) for 2 pipe in the condenser.
I tried to use the green seal from GPD (made in china), but I am not so sure about the durability since the rubber is so easy to put in on around the pipe. While the OEM has more resistant when I put in on. I know both will work.

3 About Vacuuming and charging the A/C system.
I think this is also important:
I found an elderly that used to own a car shop, now he only do A/C vacuum and charging at his garage. But he was a pro and he owns the robinaire machine also a pro grade.
He checked my work then he hooked up the pipe to start vacuum my A/C system.
The first 5 minutes he stopped then check if needle move
Then he continued again till 16 minutes and wait for couple minutes (I forgot to time it).
He started the charging by just pressing button in robinaire panel. This way there is no chance outside air may come in then no need to bleed before charging.
Also the machine allow to preset the for 2 lbs of freon for odyssey so no need to measure up the weight from the 12 oz can.
After the 2 lbs freon is all in my car A/C system, the machine stop on its own.
Then he unhooked the high pressure pipe from my car.
He blew some air to the port valve to remove any freon residue then checking w/ sniffer detector.
It did pick up some freon trace there so he tight up the port valve a little then he blew some air then he rechecked w/ sniffer.
This time is nothing there. He unhooked the low pipe too.
I started the car w/ AC on.
The guy walked around checking w/ sniffer to see any leak as I follow behind him and there is no trace of freon inside around front and back evaporator and in dashboard A/C outlet too.
I hope it can help to complete the note from CNN.

Fyi : I want to mentioned also that my old compressor only has only 2 drop of oil but no black death.
My condenser condition seems beat up because of hit by snow, water and debris from the road.
So after 3 years charging using 12 oz can, I am glad finally I wa able to put back to OEM condition again.
All the part I bought from rockauto.com since the warranty, price and return process is good.

 

Some more odds/ends that I thought worth mentioning:

1. Some AC gurus told me it is important that once the system is buttoned up (lines connected but prior to charging with R134a), spin the AC shaft via the Clutch some 10-16 revolutions to distribute oil, and also to prevent oil slugging during the 1st start-up.
I am not sure this is needed, but what the heck, it costs you nothing, why not?

2. Also, some people say to prevent Clutch slipping, burnish after R134a is charged. Just google "Burnish AC Clutch".

Burnishing is the cycling of the clutch to allow a wearing in of the engagement surface area. The reason for burnishing a clutch is to increase the initial starting torque. Most technicians fail to follow this important procedure when replacing a compressor or clutch. An unburnished ac clutch can produce a low torque condition, causing the clutch to slip and thereby fail. When replacing a clutch or compressor & clutch assembly, follow this important burnishing procedure. Run the engine at 1,500 to 2,500 RPM. Using the controls on the dash, cycle the clutch ON and OFF at a rate of 10 to 15 times per minute for a total of 50 cycles minimum. This should bring the clutch up to operating torque capacity.

.

 

Thank you cnn for another great write-up, I just replaced my compressor following your how-to.

I found the compressor on Amazon for $270, and since I have prime I was able to get one-day shipping for $8. A local shop did the system recovery and then vac'd and filled for about $70. Not too bad.

 

Thanks for the write-up cnn!

My stator went bad and I purchased the whole compressor for $220 at rock auto. Originally I thought I would just replace the clutch & stator, but since the van is at 98K, I figured I might as well replace the whole thing. I did have to remove the tensioner assembly (easy 2 bolt removal) to deliver the baby, because the belt pulley was too big.

1 hr @ 25 micron vacuum, 26 oz R134a & 4 oz double end capped PAG-46, and she is good as new. The wife and kids are thankful for A/C now!

Michael

 

What about the A/C Receiver Drier / Accumulator ? ya'll replacing that too? isn't it a part warranty requirement ?

 

The source of difficulties was the compressor. cnn never had a line leak; in short, the closed system had not been breached and then spent an extended time with open lines. When he removed the compressor, he immediately capped the line ends. I've done this before, too, on household and automotive systems, and immediately sealing off the line ends prevents moisture inclusion problems.

I've got one of those dessicant bags sitting in my rollaway. It's pretty big and has a lot of "drop" capacity. "Breaking" the lines and then capping them will not allow enough moisture into the system to come even close to saturating that bag.

I'd say it was a good call. Very little gained by performing extra surgery and removing the condenser (disconnect another line) and open up the socket head plug (another opening). The greater risks outweigh the marginal (at best) gain.

This is a good writeup, cnn. Thanks for the videos; I never realized that the A/C compressors use something like swash plate pumps. They look like they function like hydraulic pumps on a big jet aircraft.

OF

 

The accumulator/drier is likely affected if the compressor fails internally or the system is opened to the atmosphere for a long period of time. If the compressor fails and sends bits of metal downstream, it is going to end up in the accumulator and possibly the condenser. You can flush the condenser, but best just to replace the accumulator. As long as the system has not taken on moisture from being open to the atmosphere, such as when recovering the refrigerant, replacing a component and recharging, it is not mandatory to replace the drier. The desiccant is often soaked in oil, so it is not going to quickly absorb moisture unless it is exposed to the atmosphere for an extended time. It does absorb moisture quickly when the fluid is moving through it during compressor operation.

In my case, I only had the lines open for about 20 minutes while replacing the compressor, and then I pulled a low vacuum for an hour. If you think about it, replacing the desiccant allows it to be open to the atmosphere while you are installing it, and that is likely more exposure than deep inside the system bathed in oil.

If the system has been discharged, recharged, opened etc, there is always some moisture that likely enters and possibly is absorbed by the desiccant. Over time the desiccant's reserve decays, so it is wise to replace it in general, but I don't think it is affected much at all when opening a properly operating system one time.

Michael

 

I just ordered a new compressor and a new condenser..found a shop that is only going to charge me $325 labor to install both...no warranty though...still less than half of Honda's refurb'd compressor only warrantied offer...rolling the dice...

 

I ordered this...not sure if I am going to need any other parts like "accumulator/drier"
Denso 477-0618 A/C Condenser : Amazon.com : Automotive

 

Thanks for the great post cnn. When getting the mating block off the compressor all 3 of the bolts sheared. I had to re-thread a new hole for the one bolt that sticks way out in your photo. I put everything back together and it was ice cold for a week then all warm air. The pressure was really high in the system for some reason and the pressure relief valve started to go off. I recovered the freon and vacuumed and put freon back in. All warm air. I think I have a leak. Is there any way to get that mating piece for the hoses to the compressor? Or does it sound like the expansion valve is stuck and that is why pressure is building in the system. Anyone's help would be appreciated.
D

 

CNN...thanks for this great thread.

Quick question for you/forum: Amazon has the whole Denso 471-1630 assembly for $227 (+$20 tax for me in CA). My 2007 EX-L has ~95,000 miles. Is it worth replacing everything?

Seems like the replacement of all will be easier and faster than replacing just the stator/clutch, and those parts alone will cost me about $235 shipped from Majestic. If I replaced all, I would just have to spend the extra $65 with my mechanic for refrigerant recovery/charge (I just did this last week thinking I had a slow leak since the 2nd condenser replacement a month ago...but that's another story...so sunk cost).

 

Like MWD, I ended up picking up the entire compressor unit for $250 through Amazon...was going to be $245 from Majestic just for the clutch + stator. Things went pretty fast up to two points.
1) It was ridiculous trying to figure out how to get the old compressor out with the belt wheel (?) still attached. I removed a bolt from the tensioner assembly so I could rotate a piece partly out of the way, and after 10 minutes of trying different angles it finally came out. Fortunately, the new one eventually went in very easily.
2) Just like CNN, it was impossible to get the second 5.5mm head bolt off the compressor without drilling it out. Fortunately I have some experience dealing with things like this, but still added at least an hour to my effort this morning (15 min to drill out, 45 min trip to the HW store).

Thanks for all the instructions!

 

@JamesInLV,

You made the right decision, I was faced with the same situation of clutch vs new compressor.

Then I saw the post by CandyGram4Mongo re leaking front seal:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-20.../forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/93901-05-compressor-clutch-troubleshooting-13.html

Then it was an easy decision, new Denso compressor is the ticket.

I have had the Denso compressor now for 1 year, works fine.

You easily saved $1000, the Honda dealer wanted $1400 for this job that I did for $350 ($250 for compressor, $100 for evacuation + recharge). Still better than a car payment!

 

Removal

I followed these steps and was able to remove the compressor without to much issue. Problem I had was that I was unable to remove the compressor via the wheel well. It just will not fit at all! Any suggestions?

I know these directions are for a 2007 Honda Odyssey, I have a 2004 Honda Odyssey, figured it would be the same .

Damon

 

I followed these steps and was able to remove the compressor without to much issue. Problem I had was that I was unable to remove the compressor via the wheel well. It just will not fit at all! Any suggestions?

I know these directions are for a 2007 Honda Odyssey, I have a 2004 Honda Odyssey, figured it would be the same .

Damon

See the 2nd gen thread posts by sailorbenjamin:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/155372-c-compressor-diy-replacement.html

 

2004 and 2005-2010 are different generations, so, it is naive to think you can use gen3 instructions for gen2 odyssey.... Ask in appropriate forum.

 

Actually, damonlbeaty did not ask a naive question at all.
The 2nd gen forum has no clear instructions for AC Compressor R&R, I linked this DIY AC Compressor for 2nd gen folks so they can use a reference. It is virtually the same procedure between 2nd gen vs 3rd gen procedure.

Back to damonlbeaty question, for 2nd gen procedure, I remember reading somewhere that it needs to come out through the top. So the alternator needs to be removed to deliver the baby through the top.

 

Read that you could also loosen the subframe bolts to make room for removal from the bottom, just cant find out what the subframe bolts are... Anyone know?

 

To pull it through the wheel well you need to take off the tensioner. Use a breaker bar from on top to loosen it and then remove it. I tried to just undo the bolt on the bottom and move the bottom arm of the tensioner and it will not fit through. Once you remove the tensioner you have just the right amount to pull it through. And replace the receiver/dryer. It is very easy. just remove the clips to the upper bumper, the screws in the wheel wells right in back of the front lights at the seam, then tilt the bumper forward to gain access to the condensor. Don't bother removing the clips on the splash guard. I jjust removed the right wheel well and 2-3 clips on the right splash guard to gain access to everything. Just bend the guard down and out of the way. Good luck. Just did the whole thing this past weekend. Not fun at all but beats the $1500 to have the shop do it.

 

The 5.5 mm bolt issue: if you strip both of these bolts, simply use an Allen-head bolt (Lowes, Home Depot has it). Best is to use stainless steel bolts.

I posted info in the other thread:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/201609-05-odyssey-ac-compressor.html

 

The 5.5 mm bolt issue: if you strip both of these bolts, simply use an Allen-head bolt (Lowes, Home Depot has it). Best is to use stainless steel bolts.

I posted info in the other thread:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/201609-05-odyssey-ac-compressor.html

They wouldn't strip out if they actually WERE 5.5mm! There was a little play in the socket when I had it on. I also noticed the compressor I bought was the wrong one. The holes to mount the receiver for the low pressure line was for two 12mm bolts and would not have been compatible for the smaller bolts. I had to reinstall the old compressor and drive home from the shop the hobby shop on base. BTW the hobby shop on Quantico is not helpful nor instructional like the one in Camp Lejuene. Great facility but most of the guys in there are content to watch you struggle mightily unless you are a regular or a really experienced mechanic (they were actually helping the guy next to me who had a much different experience).
That said, I thought I needed a lift and needed to remove the front passenger tire, are both of those necessary? Is it possible to do the job from my garage with stands and a jack? I am not keen on returning to that hobby shop but if I can do it without a lift I will try it from home. What do you think?

 

I've got a question about operation of AC system after new compressor has been installed. I had the dealer replace my ac compressor '06 Odyssey touring. It's not blowing as cold as it was prior to compressor change. The clutch and coil failed for the second time and I opted for a completely new compressor for the warranty aspect ( it's why the dealer did the work ). Total cost was 950 for compressor and installation.

I have to return the van monday so they can find out why the system isn't blowing as cold as it should. Does anyone know what the temp coming out of the vents up front is supposed to be while the ac is at max cooling ?

Thanks

 

Just did a 2005 EXL with 140000+ miles last night. Once I quit fighting the small space and pulled the tensioner it was a breeze. Off to get the system refilled today. To echo others.
1. Just remove the tensioner. It is SO much easier
2. The plastic clips are stupid. Really. Glad I bought new ones on amazon.
3. 3.5 hours, saved $1100. I will NEVER make that kind of money per hour....

Thanks again CNN and all of the others who share their knowledge!

I am in Omaha too. Love your write ups. Have referenced this sight for brakes, power steering pump, spark plugs and now AC. Next up is transmission flush. Going for 200K and as few mechanics bills as possible.

Eric

 

CANT GET THE COMPRESSOR OUT>>> ? Try what these user and I found helpful!

Just did a 2005 EXL with 140000+ miles last night. Once I quit fighting the small space and pulled the tensioner it was a breeze. Off to get the system refilled today. To echo others.
1. Just remove the tensioner. It is SO much easier

.........

Eric

To pull it through the wheel well you need to take off the tensioner. Use a breaker bar from on top to loosen it and then remove it. I tried to just undo the bolt on the bottom and move the bottom arm of the tensioner and it will not fit through. Once you remove the tensioner you have just the right amount to pull it through. And replace the receiver/dryer. It is very easy. just remove the clips to the upper bumper, the screws in the wheel wells right in back of the front lights at the seam, then tilt the bumper forward to gain access to the condensor. Don't bother removing the clips on the splash guard. I jjust removed the right wheel well and 2-3 clips on the right splash guard to gain access to everything. Just bend the guard down and out of the way. Good luck. Just did the whole thing this past weekend. Not fun at all but beats the $1500 to have the shop do it.

CNN if you see this reply, please update your wonderful guide with this!!!

Removing the tensioner completely will allow the compressor to slip throught the wheel well area!!!

I swapped my compressor AGAIN last night. The first swap worked very nicely for two or three texas summers but unfortunately failed last weekend so i ordered another Denso from amazon and its working again. My first swap, i drew vacuum and recharged myself, worked very well. This time i had a trusted mechanic friend do the evac and recharge with his fancy equipment (my harbor frieght manifold guage doesnt seem to be working right and i m a lot more busy right now.)

Now hopefully i have the same luck with out Fit Sport.

 

I have a 2006 EXL with 190000+and the compressor quite. Replacing compressor with remanufactured Denso 471-1630 from Amazon, about $150 but still with
1 yr warranty. Not sure about receiver/dryer, if I should replace or not. Does anyone know the difficulty in changing one. Also should the expansion valve be
changed as well?

 

Ok, I am not a mechanic but don't like wasting $1350 to replace my compressor and condenser for a failed clutch. I attempted to replace my entire compressor and was unable to remove it from the engine compartment. I had the splash guard and front passenger tire and wheel well liner out but could not pass it by the bushing where the bottom of the tensioner was. How do I get it out of there?

 

I had the same problem and worked and worked at it, never finding the magic angle to remove it. How to fix...easy! Unbolt the tensioner and take that out of there. Once that is out of the way, it only took me a couple minutes to get the compressor rotated to the correct angle to drop out of there.

 

I had a seized Ac compressor clutch. I metered everything and couldn't figure why the clutch wouldn't engage. Diagnosis at a shop plus evacuation was around $100 but it confirmed the clutch bad and said I needed a who,e new compressor since they won't replace clutch only. They wanted $1384.26 on top of that for the whole job. The quote included servicing post repair at a cost of $80. When I called back for the same service after DIY repair he wanted $175! No doubt because he didn't get the big money on the repair job, but that dishonesty drove me to base where I paid a third of that. So for the $1484 mechanic quote and my DIY $508.28 (would have been $112 cheaper if I only replaced the descant filter instead of whole condenser and didn't waste 1.5hrs of lift rental while I drilled one of the stripped 5.5mm bolts out). Looks like the Base Hobby Shop is going to be my greatest retirement benefit, already saved me $975.72! Next job is brakes and rotors, I almost want to get a quote for a laugh. BTW thank you for the advice on removing the tensioner, the part came right out that way.
New Compressor $255.60 ($503 + $240 labor = $743) Dealer price $730 for part only!
Condenser $139.50 ($190 = part and labor)
O-rings $4.50
Pag Oil $8.10
PB Blaster $6.30
Vacuum and recharge $62.28
Lift Rental base hobby shop $32

 

Just did this over the weekend. Couple notes. Slow and steady (but firm) pressure on the tensioner is key here. Two people involved with the belt removal is a big help. Once the belt was off i removed the tensioner completely to make way for the removal of the AC Compressor itself. Thanks for the awesome write up!