I am in the unfortunate position of yet again having to replace my front and rear mounts on my 2005 EX-L. Granted, last time I put aftermarket mounts on, but I didn't want to pay $450/mount.
I now have 142k on the van and just put $900 in the front suspension, so I don't really want to put another $900 + labor in the van. My plan is to buy the cheaper aftermarket mounts and deal with them, hoping they last longer now that I have a VCMuzzler.
But that brings a question: has anyone tried putting the Honda OEM Non-ACM mounts (front/rear) on their EX-L/Touring models since adding their VCMuzzler? The VCM hardly ever engages and when it does, it's not very long--even in the 110+ temps of Phoenix (thanks the the 120 ohm resistor).
In the rare times it does go off, would it cause much problems if the Non-ACM mounts were holding down the engine?
Duke good test. Take the electronics out if the old just in case it does as a secondary test. I put. Beck arnley for my rear but idle vibrations are still pretty poor with muzzler on so going oem for front. Figured ill meet in the middle and hope this solves it and no other mounts need to go. Thinking passenger side may need it too. Then hoping my coarse engine noise goes away too.
Here's a review from amazon on the difference between OEM acm and afternarket.
Genuine Honda 50810-SHJ-305 Engine Mount Rubber Assembly, Rear
There is a difference with the OEM Honda mounts. This review explains the difference.
By Robert Boyle - October 28, 2014
Amazon Verified Purchase
Buy the genuine Honda item. It makes a huge difference. The Honda active engine mounts contain a voice coil like you will find inside a speaker. By passing an electrical current through this coil, the engine mounts counteract the vibration of the engine. The aftermarket units either have no connector and a solid mount or they have a resistor to fool the ECU into thinking the voice coil and the system are working as they should. I know the mounts are expensive, but if you aren't going to buy Honda mounts, just buy the stock mounts for $60 and change the bracket on the engine for $40. All other aftermarket mounts will give worse performance than the stock mounts. I looked at all of them and none include a voice coil. Change the front and the rear at the same time or the old one will quickly destroy the new one. The side/middle bracket is cheap so it should be changed too.
3 of 3 people found this review helpful
As much as I would like OEM mounts in the Odyssey (all three side mounts are), I just don't want to dump $900 in mounts into the van and use the money elsewhere and deal with the extra vibrations. However, I am willing to go with the Honda OEM mounts for the LX/EX trim, but it appears it's more than just replacing a bracket.
Based on the diagram of both engines, the front mount and bracket appear to be identical, but the rear mount is very different on the EX/LX models and I worry it won't have any fitment, including if I added a new bracket.
i would love to see someone disect a genuine OEM honda and various aftermarkets and show pics for the differences. I especially would like to see a torn down beck arnley vs honda to see if they indeed design them to be just like oem as they say. For the front though i decided to get HONDA and will put that in soon. I know it is a lot of money but i plan on keeping our van for several more years as our youngest is only 5. i have never spent more than $500 a year on maintenance vs regular so this will be a first. i do most myself and i will do this as well. Even if i had to put in a transmission it is still way cheaper than buying a new van as long as the rest is holding up well which it is at this juncture knock on wood.
I'll be removing front and rear Beck/Arnley mount this weekend when I put the Anchor mounts in. I'll dissect both and post pics. Someone will have to do the same on old Honda OEM mounts for a comparison.
I can dissect my westar after replacing it with oem. I dissected the rear westar and while it had oil i didnt see anthing like a voice coil in the rear one. Surely someone still has their honda front and rear to tear apart or surely will be replacing soon based on the interest here. I would think and hope beck had better quality than anchor so should be a good test
Duke- see if u can remove the front one by removing the bkack plastic cover over grill and radiator...i saw a guy say he removed his that way without removing hoses or battery and tray. Woul love your instructions and pictures but i was planning on doing the same.
That's what a friend and I did today, but I did have to remove the battery to fish the mount out from the top. We also removed the front grill, pulled the radiator forward and I stuck a piece of 2x4 behind it to hold it in place.
We replaced the old Beck/Arnley front mount with the Anchor mount. The old one was solid, so I don't know how the mechanic who told me it was "broken" could tell. The rubber was deflated though. Not sure if that means it was broken.
The vibration is a little less than before. At this point, I'm OK with it. It's 11 years old and had 142k+ on it. I can't expect it to drive like new!
I also didn't have enough time to do the rear one. I'm kind of wondering if I was lied to. But I have the new mounts, might as well replace them.
Not trying to jynx you but dont be surprised if vibration gets bad in as soon as weeks or two months. Mine did. Why i went oem and wish i had the first time. Vibration drives me crazy
I have an 06 EX-L that i replaced the OEM ACM mounts with some Beck Arnley ACM mounts because they were a LOT cheaper. I didn't know about the OEM mounts being oil filled until I replaced it and the replacement ACM mounts I used do not perform the same as the OEM. The difference was immediately apparent especially when the VCM kicks in...the mounts do not attenuate the vibration. You can also feel vibrations at idle but they tend to lessen when the engine warms up. I have never popped a code however. That being said I'm waiting on delivery of the VCMuzzler II to install it. As long as the muzzler works, then the difference between the non-OEM and OEM mounts will be negligible. So IMO if you want to forego $900 of OEM mounts, you will have to get the VCMuzzler with aftermarket ACM mounts. The vibrations caused by the non-OEM ACM mounts, as I have experienced, will eventually cause issues.
First, you should be running the VCMuzzler regardless. However, you do know that the Muzzler doesn't disable VCM 100% of the time, right? It's more like about 95%. You will still get VCM on occasion, usually after sitting idle at a red light when it's hot out. If you then decide to jump up in resistors to get VCM to never kick in you'll go to far and end up with a check engine light with a P0128 code.
Also, it's pretty well documented around here that aftermarket ACM mounts don't last. Unfortunately, there really isn't an inexpensive solution.
Nobody has been able to figure out who makes the OEM mounts for Honda. Nobody has found any aftermarkets that last as long as the OEM mounts. I'm pretty sure I've seen premature failures of the Anchor brand mounts, too. If you can find some that will work reasonably well along with a VCMuzzler then that's a significant step.
Yep! 15 months and 12k+ miles later and no issues with the mounts. I can't say how long they'll last, but I'm crossing my fingers they'll last longer with the VCMuzzler on it!
Beck Arnley makes two different rear mounts - 104-2200 and 104-2050. Both appear to be exact fit replacements for my '05 EX-L. Does anyone know the difference? I replaced my rear mount with an Anchor a little over a year ago and it's collapsed. From what I've read, it seems the Beck-Arnley may be a little better. Planning to get a muzzler with it, too, so hopefully it'll last. really not keen on spending $650 for the Honda
They're all junk. It's unfortunate for us, but it's true. None of them last much more than a year, two at most. If you're going to sell the car, put in an aftermarket. If you're planning on keeping it spring for the OEM.
Great information in this thread and throughout the board, thanks!
We just purchased a used 2010 EX-L RES/Navi model with 150,000 miles. I went ahead and changed the Timing Belt (and all it's components), water pump, coolant and right engine mount. Anyways, after all that I decided to check the mounts and sure enough the front ACM mount is busted. I'm not really a fan of putting the ACM mount again, as we had a new odyssey in the past that had a failed front mount in less than 10k miles. I figured I'd just mount the old mount somewhere underneath, wherever the electrical connection would let me stretch it to.
So, instead of using an aftermarket replacement like the anchor, I'm going to replace the Front mount with the Honda ECM version.
I ordered a VCM Muzzler II last week and ordered the following parts today.
Prices shown are from Majestic Honda
Front Bracket: 50630-SHJ-A01 $42.91
Stopper, Engine mounting: 50815-SDA-A01 $13.06
Rubber Assembly, Engine mounting: 50830-SHJ-A04 $86.89
Insulator, Engine mount heat: 50839-SHJ-A01 $11.48
I think that's all it will take, I'll know for sure after install. I'll be sure to post what I figure out. If I need to swap the rear, I'll do that also after the front one.
Fastdrvr, welcome to Odyclub. Please post pictures when you do this. We'd love to see it. I may do this in the spring. As far as the plug, another member mentioned leaving it unplugged without any repercussions.
Thanks for the welcome. I’ll be glad to post what I find, I figured I’d scan for codes before and after as well and probably log a little before and after the vcm muzzler as well. That will be nice if I can seal that plug off and tuck it away instead of mounting that 8lb hunk of broken mount under there. Hopefully I’ll get a chance in the next few days to figure what to do for the rear mount.
S-VCM sounds interesting. I'm concerned with the power wire causing electrical problems. My vcm uzzler draws no amps and working fine for me. If the ody over heats the dash temp gauge would tell you instantly. I'll consider it IF someone would be the testing sujects.
Some here on the forum have speculated in the past that the ideal VCM disable control would be a solid-state device that would supply a constant, reduced voltage out of ECT-1, rather than a variable voltage depending on which resistor was inserted.
There's no longer the problem of deciding which resistor to use, or of changing the resistor with the season.
I looked at it and I'm with pappy on this one. I'm not sure I like the added power wire. He has you just connect it directly to the battery. To do this properly it needs to be fused. I don't like wires connected directly at the battery that don't have a fusible link or fuse right at the battery...too much possibility for a short and/or fire. For those that are good at wiring you can simply find a fuse to connect it to somewhere else but ease of installation is no longer there for the average person, as it is with the resistor models.
It's a good idea but needs quality installation to be done right.
There was a post on the Piolteers forum that someone has ordered one and is going to try it. I think he said he currently had a muzzler on but was going to try this. If I recall I think he was concerned about overheating with the current set up.
I think he overstates the frequency and difficulty of changing resistors, but that impression could be the result of a combination of self-promoting hyperbole and the bias of my own experience (which is that I never need to do it).
The extra wire is the big issue for me too. In addition to the extra work involved in a proper installation that has already been mentioned, you will probably have to abandon any hope of stealth or flying under the radar in the engine bay. There's no overlooking an extra wire and control box under the hood. That sucker is going to be noticed.
Removing and reinstalling the original VCMuzzler whenever you need to is so easy compared to how this sounds.
There are surely some circumstances where something like this is a great choice and more functional than a passive VCM suppression device. But those cases are more likely to be the exception and not the rule.
I replaced the ACM mounts on my 2005 Touring back in May. I can clearly hear and feel when the VCM kicks on in hot weather or sitting in traffic but it's still less violent than with the aftermarket mount (which physically broke as mentioned earlier).
Here's what I purchased to make the switch:
Rear: 05-10 Honda Odyssey Rear Motor Mount LX EX Cloth Interior - PN 50810-SHJ-A00 Bracket, Rear Engine Mounting - PN 50610-SHJ-A00 Front: Honda Genuine OEM Front Mount - PN 50830-SHJ-305
Flange Bolt - 90162-SHJ-A00
I left the cables unplugged. There is no CEL although there probably is a code in the ECU. Honda dealership service didn't notice a difference last time the van was there.
How have these held up? I think my Anchor after market ACM mounts are finally giving out after nearly 2 years. That's a lot longer than I thought they would last. Maybe going with OEM non-ACM mounts as you have done is a better solution with the VCMuzzler.
I tried two brands of aftermarket and not even be a srnley as quiet vibration free as oem. I have a rear bevk mount on mine but I think it will need replacing again in a couple years (even with muzzler) I feel the slight roar at hey speeds the rare time the eco cuts on. Man that rear is a pain. Helps to have a helper to hack the car up to the sweet spot to pull it out
Although lots of good motor mount info here- I would love to read more feedback about the OP's mentioned device and specifically more feedback on the VCMuzzler II . The closed thread on the Muzzler II kept referring to "The second Muzzler II thread " for more (Up to date) comments , but I can't find that thread . ALL comments would be greatly appreciated from users of the VCMuzzler II .