Rear engine mount DIY?
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Thread: Rear engine mount DIY?

  1. #1
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    Rear engine mount DIY?

    Has anyone attempted this on their own? Our '05 is at the dealer right now, and they already called to say that the mount is bad. Looking at the TSB, it doesn't sound too bad, but I wanted to see if anyone here has done it.
    I have the mechanical skills (I'm an aircraft mech.) and a lift at work to use...
    I hate to pay others for a job I can do myself..

    Jason

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  3. #2
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    I changed my rear mount a few days ago and thought it would be nice to post the procedure for anyone else thinking about doing the job. It was not easy but with the proper tools and 2 sets of hands, it is a managable job. Here is what you will need:

    - a strong 1/2" impact wrench (IR 231C)
    - a variety of socket extensions and adapters (4" regular and 8" wobble a minimum)
    - 6 point metric socket set up to size 17mm - deep well and regular
    - pliers and channel locks to remove/install hose clips
    - 2 floor jacks, one to elevate car and 1 to raise transmission
    - yourself and 1 helper

    Step 1: take pictures of behind the engine area so that you can remember how the hoses are installed.

    Step 2: remove all hoses from behind the engine. Some of these are heater hoses and some are vacuum lines. Remove as many as you can so that the entire area behind the engine is accessible.

    Step 3: remove the 2 bolts holding on the engine mount cover. These are 17mm bolts and are very tight. I made the mistake of trying to use a U-joint on these and nearly stripped out the bolt. The best way is to use a deep (or regular) socket with a 4" extension on the impact gun. Just make sure you are straight on all the way. Once you have these bolts off, the hard part is out of the way.

    Step 4: elevate the vehicle with jacks and stands. From below the car, wrestle the cover off of the mount.

    Step 5: loosen the 4 bolts on the engine mount. This is where you'll need a friend to help you - have them operate the impact gun from the top while you guide the socket onto the bolts from the underside. I used an 8" wobble extension on this and it came in real handy. Again, make sure the socket is seated all the way on the bolts before your buddy hits it with the gun.

    Step 6: use a bottle jack on the bottom side of the transmission to take the weight off of the rear mount

    Step 7: remove the one horizontal bolt from the engine mount. This is the last thing holding on the mount.

    Step 8: continue to raise the transmission with the bottle jack until the engine mount is free. Remove the old mount and install the new one. Put it all back together in reverse order.


    Sorry, no pics, but there's not much to take a picture of.

    I got my engine mount off of eBay from Bell Honda for about $385.

    I did this write up b/c I don't see many technical write ups on this forum. Let's try to make more of an effort to share our technical experience with others so we can get these problems solved.
    Last edited by scottn3; 08-29-2010 at 08:57 AM.

  4. #3
    Registered User Dirkdaddy's Avatar
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    THANKS! Suggest a sticky on your post. I'm also DIY guy.

    I had mine replace at dealer as it was under warranty, but I still get a bit more motor vibration than I think is normal, is your front giving any issue - ??

    good find on Ebay, you saved a lot.
    '06 EX-L Red - Mods - Magnum drilled rotors & ceramic pads, stainless lines, Monroe shocks, auto lights, 18" MDX Sport rims/Kuhmo tires. Honda hitch. mud guards. Weather Tech mats. Rad. Screen mod. & trans cooler.
    Issues - R.shocks, 3 eng mounts, blower thermal cut-out, alternator bearing, DVD sound cable, AC clutch bearing, door rattle, what next?
    '12 Kia Optima SX - Turbo GDI 2.0, 274 hp 6 speed
    '07 Saturn Sky Redline project car 1 year and counting on blocks...

  5. #4
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    With the help of Scottn3's instructions I just changed the rear motor mount on my 2005 Odyssey (60k miles). I did it by myself on ramps. I wasn't hard, just awkward. Two people would have saved much back and forth between the top of the car and underneath to get the sockets on the various bolts/nuts from the top but its possible on your own.

    I skipped steps 1 and two (left all of the hoses in place - its possible to work around/thru them). For step 3 I used a 1/2" breaker bar. The cover bolts are tight.

    For me the most difficult piece was getting the rubber/metal cover back on over the mount after installation!. My solution was to take the rubber part of the cover, install the rubber first and then insert the metal cover into the rubber and onto the cover studs - i couldn't get the assembled cover over the mount without taking it apart like that.

    Since the new mount was higher than the old (collapsed) one did have to raise the engine probably I/2" extra to get the new mount in.

    Got the mount on ebay for $287 with shipping so probably saved $600-700 for 2 1/2 hrs work (I was being careful and methodical) vs what the stealer wants.

    Car drives like new now - idle is almost back to silent and no annoying vibration/noise etc



    Quote Originally Posted by scottn3 View Post
    I changed my rear mount a few days ago and thought it would be nice to post the procedure for anyone else thinking about doing the job. It was not easy but with the proper tools and 2 sets of hands, it is a managable job. Here is what you will need:

    - a strong 1/2" impact wrench (IR 231C)
    - a variety of socket extensions and adapters (4" regular and 8" wobble a minimum)
    - 6 point metric socket set up to size 17mm - deep well and regular
    - pliers and channel locks to remove/install hose clips
    - 2 floor jacks, one to elevate car and 1 to raise transmission
    - yourself and 1 helper

    Step 1: take pictures of behind the engine area so that you can remember how the hoses are installed.

    Step 2: remove all hoses from behind the engine. Some of these are heater hoses and some are vacuum lines. Remove as many as you can so that the entire area behind the engine is accessible.

    Step 3: remove the 2 bolts holding on the engine mount cover. These are 17mm bolts and are very tight. I made the mistake of trying to use a U-joint on these and nearly stripped out the bolt. The best way is to use a deep (or regular) socket with a 4" extension on the impact gun. Just make sure you are straight on all the way. Once you have these bolts off, the hard part is out of the way.

    Step 4: elevate the vehicle with jacks and stands. From below the car, wrestle the cover off of the mount.

    Step 5: loosen the 4 bolts on the engine mount. This is where you'll need a friend to help you - have them operate the impact gun from the top while you guide the socket onto the bolts from the underside. I used an 8" wobble extension on this and it came in real handy. Again, make sure the socket is seated all the way on the bolts before your buddy hits it with the gun.

    Step 6: use a bottle jack on the bottom side of the transmission to take the weight off of the rear mount

    Step 7: remove the one horizontal bolt from the engine mount. This is the last thing holding on the mount.

    Step 8: continue to raise the transmission with the bottle jack until the engine mount is free. Remove the old mount and install the new one. Put it all back together in reverse order.


    Sorry, no pics, but there's not much to take a picture of.

    I got my engine mount off of eBay from Bell Honda for about $385.

    I did this write up b/c I don't see many technical write ups on this forum. Let's try to make more of an effort to share our technical experience with others so we can get these problems solved.

  6. #5
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    Just got a call from the dealership and this broke on ours too. 2006 with 85k miles. Does anyone have the part number? Saw one on Ebay (part number 50810-SHJ-A00) for $80. I can't imagine this is the same piece, but then again, motor mounts aren't very complicated. Dealer said it would be about $768 installed with about $600 of that being the part.

    Thank you,
    2006 EX-L
    2000 Corvette Coupe - 560 HP
    2009 Sonata Limited 4cyl

  7. #6
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    Apparently there are 3 part numbers. Each one supercedes the next, with the most current being 50810-SHJ-A62. Original was -A60 then the -A61
    I think the A62 was OEM on the 2007 year.

    I don't see any on EBAY with the updated model number (-A62)
    2006 EX-L
    2000 Corvette Coupe - 560 HP
    2009 Sonata Limited 4cyl

  8. #7
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    I ordered the rear motor mount from Advanced Auto Parts. I know it's not a Honda piece, but that might be a good thing given all of their issues.
    Cost was $90.

    On a different note, the battery was dying. I bought the cheapest battery they had, which was $90. Most of the batteries were around $150. When did batteries become so expensive!?

    Also had to buy front brake pads.


    All of the sudden, this van is costing me a lot!
    2006 EX-L
    2000 Corvette Coupe - 560 HP
    2009 Sonata Limited 4cyl

  9. #8
    Registered User Dirkdaddy's Avatar
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    You have a corvette and complain about buying brake pads and battery for your van? Priced tires for the Vette lately? Not sure about the parts store mount, was it electric like the one for 3gen EXL/Tour?
    '06 EX-L Red - Mods - Magnum drilled rotors & ceramic pads, stainless lines, Monroe shocks, auto lights, 18" MDX Sport rims/Kuhmo tires. Honda hitch. mud guards. Weather Tech mats. Rad. Screen mod. & trans cooler.
    Issues - R.shocks, 3 eng mounts, blower thermal cut-out, alternator bearing, DVD sound cable, AC clutch bearing, door rattle, what next?
    '12 Kia Optima SX - Turbo GDI 2.0, 274 hp 6 speed
    '07 Saturn Sky Redline project car 1 year and counting on blocks...

  10. #9
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    I only put about 2,000 miles on the C5 each year now that it has been relegated to weekend and race duty so buying tires is a bit rare. And at 90k miles on the C5, I'm still on the original brake pads (granted I run different pads while racing). This will be the van's 3rd set of front pads in almost as many miles.



    The motor mount does have an electric plug in it, not sure what that is used for since the existing one has crapped out but there was not error code. The mount I ordered also had the plug. It is a direct OEM replacement.

    I also dropped $300 at the Honda dealer for a transmission flush, oil change, and wheel issue yesterday.
    2006 EX-L
    2000 Corvette Coupe - 560 HP
    2009 Sonata Limited 4cyl

  11. #10
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    I should have updated this. The parts store motor mount, when it arrived, did not match the picture and was the incorrect part. I ended up buying the Honda part on Ebay from a Honda place for $385.
    2006 EX-L
    2000 Corvette Coupe - 560 HP
    2009 Sonata Limited 4cyl

  12. #11
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    FYI..
    I did my rear engine mount on 06 touring. I used the process in the this thread but I could not get off the engine mount cover. Nuts were totally seized. There really is no need to remove engine mount cover, so no need to come from behind the motor w/ long extensions. You can do all the work from the bottom. I was able to remove the horizontal bolt that holds the mount to the motor without removing the cover. Once I got the engine mount out I removed the cover with my impact gun on the ground. Much easier. I did reinstall the engine mount with out the cover and then put the cover on when it was installed. I think I could do the rear engine mount in about 1.5 hours now.

  13. #12
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    Very good to know. THANKS!!
    2006 EX-L
    2000 Corvette Coupe - 560 HP
    2009 Sonata Limited 4cyl

  14. #13
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    So there's no aftermarket mount that we're aware of, correct?

    Is it at all possible to rehab the stock mount? I know on basic motor mounts, the rubber tends to rip/tear and people have gone the route of adding inserts from Energy Suspension or even to mix up some rubber/epoxy compound (of some sort) and fill in the rips/tears/gaps and then reinstall. Is that at all possible?

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by supadupamikey View Post
    So there's no aftermarket mount that we're aware of, correct?

    Is it at all possible to rehab the stock mount? I know on basic motor mounts, the rubber tends to rip/tear and people have gone the route of adding inserts from Energy Suspension or even to mix up some rubber/epoxy compound (of some sort) and fill in the rips/tears/gaps and then reinstall. Is that at all possible?

    Window Weld, that's what they're using.

    Check this link (W/F/S):
    Homemade Motor Mounts

  16. #15
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    Thank you Scottn3 for your work. I really am grateful. Kudos to your contribution. Ive been looking for this all night. Cheers

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