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2005 Ody LS sliding door latch

274K views 221 replies 109 participants last post by  VsfOdy05 
#1 · (Edited)
2005 Ody Right Side sliding door latch

After closing the sliding door, the servomotor locks the door, but then 3 seconds later reverses and unlocks the door. Door open light comes on in the dashboard. Problem only with passenger side, driver side works OK. Tried with remote, automatic, and manual operation, always with the same result. Started pulling fuses trying to isolate the servomotor for the latch. #3(40amp)under the hood,#8(20 amp)passenger side,#13(7.5amp)and #7(7.5amp) driver side fuse boxes. Only #7 turned off the servomotor, and various other functions (automatic and remote door locking/unlocking, some instrument panel lights, etc). Present situation: close sliding door, wait until door locks, quickly pull #7 fuse before door unlocks. Pull #3 and #8 and then replace #7. If #7 is replaced before #3 and #8 are replaced, the door will unlock. Thus presently everything works except the passenger sliding door, with fuses #3 and #8 removed.
Where does the signal to unlatch the door come from ? and why ?

Valaur
 
#108 ·
That's great! At least you know it's just a mechanical issue and not an electrical issue. However, do yourself a favor and spray some real lubricant in there now that the WD40 has freed it up. Use any kind of penetrating oil. WD40 is good at removing moisture and dirt but it isn't the greatest lubricant and won't last long.
 
#109 ·
Thanks. Did spray in some white lithium grease.

Didn't quite process the battery drain discussions earlier in this thread. So....

We have had a dead battery twice in the last few days, the second time even though I shut off the dome light. Does the door being sensed as ajar cause battery drain in and of itself somehow? Had the battery tested today and it is supposedly good (and it's only one year old).
 
#110 ·
The dead battery, associated with door problems, is due to to one of the switches in the rear latch not getting activated properly when it is supposed to. It causes about a 400mA Draw with the key off. If your door is now working properly then most likely the draw will be gone. If you continue to have problems then you'd need to do some parasitic draw testing.
 
#113 ·
I would like to thank this board, and YouTube with the complex of all the sliding door problems.
Was quoted $1,000 with no guarantee of a fix at a Honda dealer.
My problem started with having to assist to close left power door. Would only use right door.
Then had to turn off sliding door switch, to stop continual buzz. After that was a dead battery, bought new one
that I had to jump start every morning. Now time to look for a draw.
Now the rear latch would not close, unless I removed the left under dash fuse fast enough.

The first thing I replaced is the middle roller. One thing I added was two needle noise channel locks, and cut
fuel line not to damage cables. I would pull out as much cable as I could, and clamp it.
Tried the resets, no door movement.

I used this reset, and the rear latch stayed closed, with mine it's the left side. I didn't check for battery drain:

Turn off the switch of sliding door in left side of the steering wheel. Then, take out the fuse of sliding door on the passenger side and start the engine. Turn on the switch of the sliding door in 10 seconds and stop the engine. Turn off again the switch and place back the fuse inside the fuse box and start the engine( it reset back ). Finally, place the sliding door switch on and try open the door. It works and I did it to my Odyssey.

I replaced the rear latch assy. After bench testing the latch actuator and rear latch assy., both motors worked.
Now I want to get this done, think I was going to be checking wires.

Great info. from Krazy1, I wish I had seen xtriggerman's post before I ordered the part (good 255kb pics too).

So new latch assy. works great. Online price $203, dealer $265.
Thank you.
arthurhirsch
 
#114 ·
My LH door is not latching -

here's a slightly different twist to the fuse reset process -
I saw mention of this processes:
Pull fuse #7 (drivers side) for 10s
Power sliding door master to OFF
Key in ignition - OFF
Open both doors
Ignition to ON (electrical power, not engine running)
Power sliding door master to ON
Closed right door using console switch
Closed left door using console switch

I tried it and it caused my LH rear door to not work or respond at all with power sliding door switch ON - as if it were not getting power -

So I tried the process and only pulled fuse 13 - this brought the LH door back on line - the rear latch still not functioning properly -

What was interesting was that with following the process above - just pulling fuse 7, I was able to manually close the door and the rear latch did remain shut and the LH rear door remained "in"
 
#117 ·
First off, thank you for this thread. Because of this thread I was able to work on this issue. I can take the latch assembly in and out with my eyes closed now :). After many attempts of repairing the assembly and not getting it to work. I decided to buy a new one online (roughly $200, not bad). I replaced it. And the problem persists, needless to say, I am disappointed. It closes, then releases (as the OP mentioned, same issue) even after replacing with a new assembly. Now, I did take it to a shop before I started working on it to see if they could fix it (obviously they didn't). I wonder if they did something because it looks like the door is slightly out of alignment when closed, it doesn't look quite right compared to the other side. I am wondering if there is something where the latch detects it is too tight or loose? Any suggestions on what to look for?
 
#118 ·
Having a similar problem with my '07 drivers side door but only when it's cold out. I more often get the popping/sticking symptoms and I'm sure that a good disassembly, cleaning and lube is what I need to do. Fortunately, when I was at a local u-pull-it to get a door lock actuator for my son's car, I stumbled across an '07 odyssey that had been in a front-end collision and no damage to the sliding doors. The passenger side was missing but the driver's slider was intact and already mostly off the vehicle (I guess someone needed some part of the track or something). I pulled the panel off (not a bit gracefully) and proceeded to remove every motor/latch/switch thing I could find. Ten bucks later and I either have the solution to my issues or a practice set to work on. I think I'll clean/lube what I need from the parts I pulled so I can minimize the out-of-service time for the wife's van. Should be just a swap at that point :)
 
#122 ·
2008 Automatic door lock

Hello
I am new here, please be patient in case I am posting at the wrong thread..
My problem are the automatic door locks on the 2008 EX-L without navigation. (Bought the car one week ago and am VERY pleased with what I got for relatively little money. A Florida garage car in very good condition.)
I want to either (a) deactivate the automatic feature all together or at least have it (b) unlock all the doors after I go into park.
I followed the manual but the deactivation does not happen even after I hear the 5-seconds click and turn off the ignition(yes, I closed the door).
The activation of the unlocking feature does not work either, I never hear the 2nd click for all the doors, only the 1st one which unlocks the drivers door - and it indeed unlocks the drivers door.
I am sure there is somebody out there in Hondaland who can help. I would very much appreciate it.
 
#123 ·
First of all, thanks to all who have posted the very helpful tips and info here. This forum is my go-to resource for most any issue on my Odyssey.

My van has the same problem described by most other Ody owners in this thread--almost. I found the latch-locking pivot to be just slightly sticky; it was not hard to move. It appears my problem is a broken spring. It's easy enough to turn the thing, but it won't turn on its own. Therefore, it does not lock the latch in the closed position, nor does it contact the blue microswitch.

In the attached picture, you can (barely) see the rusted-off end of the spring at the bottom.
Auto part Wire Fuel line Engine


So now -- Is it possible/feasible to replace the spring only? If not, will it be the entire latch assembly?
 
#163 ·
First of all, thanks to all who have posted the very helpful tips and info here. This forum is my go-to resource for most any issue on my Odyssey.

My van has the same problem described by most other Ody owners in this thread--almost. I found the latch-locking pivot to be just slightly sticky; it was not hard to move. It appears my problem is a broken spring. It's easy enough to turn the thing, but it won't turn on its own. Therefore, it does not lock the latch in the closed position, nor does it contact the blue microswitch.

In the attached picture, you can (barely) see the rusted-off end of the spring at the bottom.


So now -- Is it possible/feasible to replace the spring only? If not, will it be the entire latch assembly?
Just an update 10 months later: Back in November I had decided to put a new latch assembly in. But before installing it, I decided to try "repairing" the rusted spring. About half of the lowest coil of the spring was rusted, and the hook at the end of it was gone. I cut the spring wire back to sound steel, bent a new hook, and lined it up to where the hook would catch where it was supposed to. Put everything back together and it is still working 10 months later.
 
#124 ·
I have a 2007 EX-L where the passenger side door has quit latching in the rear (and the battery has now died).

After reading through this thread, I cleaned the rear latch externally with WD40. While doing that, I used a screwdriver to work the rotating catch back and forth to get more gunk & grime out of it, alternating WD40 and air.

Now the latch won't lock upwards. When I first started cleaning it, I could push the catch all the way with the screwdriver and it would lock in the upright position. Pulling the door handle reset it. The driver side still works this way, but the passenger side has quit locking upward.

Anyone know if this is just a "I'm an idiot, I bumped a spring/catch.whatever out of alignment and need to open it up to re-position it" problem, or do I have to pull the door open, remove & replace the whole latch assembly?

Anyone have the part number?
 
#126 ·
To jbdaddy: I just ordered a latch assembly #72610-SHJ-A22 for the passenger side door of my 07 Odyssey EX. From Majestic Honda (hondaautomotiveparts.com). Also ordered some ATF #08200-9008; at 5.56 it's cheaper than the import-rated Castrol at Auto Zone.
 
#132 ·
so the normal mechanism that gets seized was working fine. The stupid lever that the motor grabs to pull in the door was full of crap and that is not something that comes apart. Grabbed the one I pulled from the junkyard and it moved freely. Sprayed the hell out of everything with silicone and smeared some lithium grease on the gears and such and she works like a champ. While I was in the door, I sprayed lube on the mechanism up by the handle which was sluggish and the actuator down in the middle to solve the door 'pop' issue. Worked the hell out of all the mechanisms and it all works great. put the door back together and calling it fixed. Now I have the mechanism that I removed to use for parts if any of the micro switches fail. Maybe I'll even give it a good soaking and get it ready for the next time.
 
#133 ·
Ended up doing this tonight, what a great thread that appears to have served many folks over the last few years.
I actually ended up taking it apart again. The door worked fine for about three cycles and ended doing that number where it pulls in, waits about three seconds and then bumps out to the resting closed position. Then it quit working again.

Took it out a second time and found that the little spring on the cam lever had shifted towards the inside of the assembly. After some more lubing and inspection I finally realized it was that particular that it needed to be positioned just so, in order to give it the proper tension to contact the micro switch lever.

I found taking the window channel bracket out made the removal quit easy, I can't imagine why anyone would opt to leave it in.
 
#134 ·
Went through taking the door apart to do this today. It appears in my case the motor has seized. Couldn't get it to move at all so pulled it out and all the other parts then moved freely but couldn't spin the gear on the motor even with a pair of channel locks. I'm assuming something inside the casing has broken and jammed so looks like I'm heading to a junk yard or the honda dealer to buy the assembly. Seems odd as the door was working fine and the next thing I know the wife is calling me saying she can't get the door open. Was definitely a ton of goop and gunk all over the assembly so I'm sure that didn't help but was not the clean it up and it will work or try to rig a 10 dollar switch in place for me that I was hoping for but definitely appreciate the post as even with the cost of the whole part I know that at least I'm buying the right thing. Should I be replacing anything else like the rollers when doing this to keep it going longer? Its a 2007 but still runs great so would like to keep it going as long as possible.
 
#137 ·
I went through the headache of taking out the part, greasing it, reassembling, and having the same issue. I finally bit the bullet and purchased a new center roller, and found a latch assembly for $200 on eBay. It had free shipping and could be returned. So the risk was relatively low on my part. I put the new parts on in less than 2 hours and solved the problem that had caused me weeks of frustration and pouring over message boards. Automatic sliding door works perfectly. Just wish I would have just done it sooner.
 
#141 ·
Weather warm up yesterday. Did take the latch out, clean and work back and forth with small spring to release all the gum up. Re-grease with we40 silicone lube, power door latch now work perfectly and no more parasitic draw. Thanks to all the contributors to the group. BTW, mine is 2006 EX.
 
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