Honda Odyssey Forum banner

Power Steering Pump Replacement DIY

398K views 240 replies 82 participants last post by  eddieskipper.es82 
#1 · (Edited)
2005 Honda Odyssey Power Steering Pump Replacement

5 Jan 2011 update: There is now a TSB on this issue.
See DVPatel's TSP list or click here.
It changes the part number of the Power Steering Pump and O-ring.


It's been about a year since I changed my power steering fluid reservoir to correct the noise issue but the Power Steering dead zone remained. At the time the car was out of warranty so I did the work myself (but I still think Honda should have corrected the problem).

Today I finally decided to replace the Power Steering Pump.

It's not too hard - took about 2 hours. Here's how I did it.

Parts (for a 2005 Odyssey) (See new TSP for updated parts)
The Power Steering Pump # 56110-RGL-A02 (2005) - about $250.00
The pressure side hose O-Ring - 91370-SV4-000 - about $1.00
Honda Power Steering Fluid - about $5.00

Tools:
A breaker bar with a 19mm socket for loosening the belt tensioner to remove the belt from the pulley.
A 10mm Socket
A 12mm Socket
A 19mm Socket (for above tensioner and for the pulley nut.
A tiny flat blade screw driver (to remove the o-ring)

Steps:
1) I disconnected the negative battery cable (not sure if it's required but I was doing some other work that did require it).
2) Remove the decorative plastic cover over the engine.
3) Locate PS Pump (see photos)




4) I recommend loosening the pulley nut (19mm) first before removing belt and pump. Don't make it very loose; just enough to break it free so it can be removed easier later. It's not easy to loosen (I didn't do it this way but it turns out that the pump is hard to maneuver out with the pulley still attached.


5) Use breaker bar or something similar to move the belt tensioner counterclockwise. Note: the trick here is to push the breaker bar slowly but firmly. It will not move fast. It's a hydraulic belt tensioner and the faster you push it the harder it pushes back. See photo and drawing for where to loosen tensioner (I didn't draw it).



6) While the tensioner is being held in position to loosen the belt, remove the belt from the top pulley. Try to tie it out of the way without letting the belt come off the other pulleys (there's very little space and it would probably be very time consuming to have to snake the belt back through all the other pulleys.)
7) If you didn't loosen the pulley in step 4, try again now.
8) Remove the Pulley. If you can't, you can continue with the steps then try removing it when the pump is out (but it's hard to maneuver it out when the pulley is still attached (I was able to do it eventually).
9) Loosen the two 12mm bolts that hold the pump to the engine (the pump just attaches to the engine there are no seals). Look at the new pump to see where these bolts are. I was not able to get a good photo. Don't remove them completely yet.
10) Loosen the spring clamp on the supply hose and slide it up the hose about 3". Be prepared to lose some fluid (have a towel to catch the small amount). Remove the hose from the PS pump and quickly move it to a position that holds it at a height above the PS Reservoir (to prevent loosing anymore fluid). Also, consider using the clear plastic cover that comes with the new pump to cover the old pump opening to hold some of the fluid in.
11) Have the new pump and O-ring standing by. In this step you will remove the pressure side hose, pull off the old o-ring, put the new o-ring on and put the hose onto the new pump (all in one step).
11a) Once again, be prepared to lose some fluid. Have a towel ready to catch it.
11b) Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the pressure side hose on the pump.
11c) Remove the hose
11d) Remove the old o-ring
11e) Install the new o-ring
11f) Remove the black cap from the new pump and put it on the old pump (to hold the fluid in)
11g) Install the hose on the new pump with the 10mm bolts (No need to tighten it yet. Place it on top of the engine until needed in step 13 below.
12) Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the pump to the engine (see step 9).
13) Install the new pump with the two 12mm bolts (torque? I'm not sure. I used 25NM)
14) Attach the Pulley to the new pump (19mm - Torque? Again, I'm not sure. I couldn't even use a torque wrench here. If someone knows, chime in. Make sure it's as tight as it was when you removed it).
15) If you didn't do so in step 11g, tighten the 10mm bolts for the pressure side hose now (Torque? Again, I'm not sure. I used 12NM).
16) Install the belt back onto the pulley (use the breaker bar with 19mm socket to move the tensioner to enable installing the belt).
17) Push the supply hose onto the new pump and slide the spring clip back into place.
18) follow the steps in the reservoir replacement bulletin to purge air from the Power Steering Fluid system and make sure fluid is at the correct level.

That's it! You're done!

My Results: I've noticed a difference, but at idle while standing still, if I try to turn the wheel very, very fast, I still feel a slight resistance (nothing like it was before).

Out of curiosity I took the old pump apart to see if I could see what was wrong with it but as you can see in the photos below, there was nothing obvious that stands out. It seems to be a very substantial mechanical design and well made too.




It seems that as the pump turns, the veins would slide outward from centrifugal force but then get push back in as they come to the narrow part of the oval chamber. There's no apparent damage and all the veins move freely so I don't see why this pump wasn't performing well at engine idle speeds.
 
See less See more
7
#2 ·
geobrick said:
2005 Honda Odyssey Power Steering Pump Replacement
Geo,
first of all thanks for the great write up. I want to say that it deserves its own thread either in the 05+ ody forum or diy.
It is too good of an info to be burried on the 14th page of this thread.
Please consider reposting!
thanks,
Max
 
  • Like
Reactions: vixdamone
#3 ·
Thanks. I'm sure people can find it with the search tool.

The write up actually took longer than the repair! I did it because couldn't find a similar DIY and I know how much I appreciate finding a good DIY when I have a problem (especially with good photos and step by step descriptions). It's one of my favorite things about the internet.
 
#5 ·
#8 · (Edited)
Re: 2002 EX-L

odysseusChariot said:
I was wondering GEO did you have a whining sound before you replaced the pump , and did it go away after ? :dunno:
I fixed the whining sound last year by replacing the reservoir with the new design however the stiff steering problem remained after that.

I lived with the stiff steering at idle speeds for a while because I am not the main driver (and my wife didn't have a problem with it). A year later I finally decided to replace the pump. (Honda refused to replace the reservoir or pump under a curtsey warrantee which added to my dislike of Honda as a company based on the far too many design related issues we had with the 2005 Odyssey (with Pax) - I actually tried to sell the Odyssey last year but I couldn't find what I wanted as a replacement so I decided to wait).

I can't identify anything in the old part that seems like a problem but I haven't noticed the problem happening in the 4 times I've driven the car since I replaced the pump. It only used to happen in very specific circumstances like when turning the wheel very quickly while the car is barely moving and the engine is at idle speed (Like turning into a parking spot). It could be that I haven't been in that circumstance yet. When I tested the car after the replacement, I still felt a slight resistance to a very fast turn of the steering wheel while not moving but it was nothing like we had before.

If someone else knows more about the PS pump and can share their knowledge of what could be failing in there, I'd like to know what they think.
 
#27 ·
I fixed the whining sound last year by replacing the reservoir with the new design however the stiff steering problem remained after that.

I lived with the stiff steering at idle speeds for a while because I am not the main driver (and my wife didn't have a problem with it). A year later I finally decided to replace the pump. (Honda refused to replace the reservoir or pump under a curtsey warrantee which added to my dislike of Honda as a company based on the far too many design related issues we had with the 2005 Odyssey (with Pax) - I actually tried to sell the Odyssey last year but I couldn't find what I wanted as a replacement so I decided to wait).

I can't identify anything in the old part that seems like a problem but I haven't noticed the problem happening in the 4 times I've driven the car since I replaced the pump. It only used to happen in very specific circumstances like when turning the wheel very quickly while the car is barely moving and the engine is at idle speed (Like turning into a parking spot). It could be that I haven't been in that circumstance yet. When I tested the car after the replacement, I still felt a slight resistance to a very fast turn of the steering wheel while not moving but it was nothing like we had before.

If someone else knows more about the PS pump and can share their knowledge of what could be failing in there, I'd like to know what they think.
Interestingly, I had exact same problem with my 06 Accord. Paid $500 to dealer to fix it. I did not want to spend that much money for the repair but the service manager told me that if I don't get it fixed, it will eventually cause greater damage to the steering system and of course more money to repair.
 
#9 ·
I had a mechanic replace my pump and reservoir as a side job for $75. He appreciated the documentation.

Thanks
 
#11 ·
cnn said:
Hey geobrick,

Couple questions:

1. I thought the tensioner pulley adjustment is via the 14-mm bolt. I posted the info here:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=85488

2. What is the Follow-up: is it the PS Reservoir or the Pump being the culprit?
In my case I replaced both and new fluid and still whines, I think its the alternator bearing based on listening to the case with stethoscope compared to a neighbors same van. they already replaced alternator.
 
#12 ·
Re: Re: 2002 EX-L

geobrick said:
I fixed the whining sound last year by replacing the reservoir with the new design however the stiff steering problem remained after that.

I lived with the stiff steering at idle speeds that for a while because I am not the main driver (and my wife didn't have a problem with it). A year later I finally decided to replace the pump. (Honda refused to replace the reservoir or pump under a curtsey warrantee which added to my dislike of Honda as a company based on the many issues we had with the 2005 with Pax - I actually tried to sell the Odyssey last year but I couldn't find what I wanted as a replacement so I decided to wait).

I can't identify anything in the old part that seems like a problem but I haven't noticed the problem happening in the 4 times I've driven the car since I replaced the pump. It only used to happen in very specific circumstances like when turning the wheel very quickly while the car is barely moving and the engine is at idle speed (Like turning into a parking spot). It could be that I haven't been in that circumstance yet. When I tested the car after the replacement, I still felt a slight resistance to a very fast turn of the steering wheel while not moving but it was nothing like we had before.

If someone else knows more about the PS pump and can share their knowledge of what could be failing in there, I'd like to know what they think.
Great DIY, I may be following your steps myself sometime over the next few days!

WRT to your question on the pump, I am an engineer in the auto industry with some experience with vane pumps. The answer is that vane pumps are extremely high precision devices with very tight contact tolerances on the mating parts (the vane, housing, and the shaft that turns the vanes). The tolerances are so tight that the parts are typically finished in a climate-controlled grinding cell with a common set of measurement gages and grinding machines. The sliding vanes can make up for some uniform defect, like a manufacturing offset, but they cannot make up for even a few thousandths of an inch in runout on the shaft or wear on the housing that is not even. At the pressures in the PS system (some vehicles run as high as 150 bar), even wear that you can't see with the naked eye causes internal leakdown, hard steering, and ultimately noise. The slower the pump is turning, the more time there is for the fluid to leak across from the high pressure side of the vane to the low pressure side, thus you see the onset of wear at idle first. Hope you find this somewhat useful!
 
#13 ·
Re: Re: Re: 2002 EX-L

cleioniii said:
Great DIY, I may be following your steps myself sometime over the next few days!

WRT to your question on the pump, I am an engineer in the auto industry with some experience with vane pumps. The answer is that vane pumps are extremely high precision devices with very tight contact tolerances on the mating parts (the vane, housing, and the shaft that turns the vanes). The tolerances are so tight that the parts are typically finished in a climate-controlled grinding cell with a common set of measurement gages and grinding machines. The sliding vanes can make up for some uniform defect, like a manufacturing offset, but they cannot make up for even a few thousandths of an inch in runout on the shaft or wear on the housing that is not even. At the pressures in the PS system (some vehicles run as high as 150 bar), even wear that you can't see with the naked eye causes internal leakdown, hard steering, and ultimately noise. The slower the pump is turning, the more time there is for the fluid to leak across from the high pressure side of the vane to the low pressure side, thus you see the onset of wear at idle first. Hope you find this somewhat useful!
Yes your answer is useful in explaining how wear that can't be seen can still allow high presure leaking to the low presure side.

It's been a while since I replaced the pump and I can say it didn't really help. There's something else going on. Maybe the design is off a bit. Maybe the pulley diameter needs to be a fraction smaller so the pump turns faster at idle. I still have the van but not for long. My wife decided to get a sedan (too bad because I like the concept of the mini van - I was looking forward to trying the new sienna).
 
#14 · (Edited)
cnn said:
Hey geobrick,

Couple questions:

1. I thought the tensioner pulley adjustment is via the 14-mm bolt. I posted the info here:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=85488
It looks like you were using the bolt in the center of the pulley.

The drawing I show has a 19mm bolt head thats not on the actual pulley but on the pulley's frame. (I think it's not really a bolt but part of the pulley structure.).
 
#15 ·
geobrick,

If you still have stiff steering at low speed, maybe this will help you.

I noticed in your #1 post that you use these parts:

Parts (for a 2005 Odyssey):
The Power Steering Pump # 56110-RGL-A02 (2005) - about $250.00
The pressure side hose O-Ring - 91370-SV4-000 - about $1.00

Honda had a TSB 10-076 to fix the stiff steering that used the new parts:
Power Steering Pump: P/N 56110-RGL-A03
O-ring: P/N 91345-RDA-A01

Apparently the A02 pump and 91370 O-ring had some defect and had to be replaced with a A03 pump and 91345 O ring.

I could find the A02 pump on the internet, but not the A03.
I guess this A03 pump is a dealer-only part.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rikoyap
#29 ·
geobrick,

If you still have stiff steering at low speed, maybe this will help you.

I noticed in your #1 post that you use these parts:

Parts (for a 2005 Odyssey):
The Power Steering Pump # 56110-RGL-A02 (2005) - about $250.00
The pressure side hose O-Ring - 91370-SV4-000 - about $1.00

Honda had a TSB 10-076 to fix the stiff steering that used the new parts:
Power Steering Pump: P/N 56110-RGL-A03
O-ring: P/N 91345-RDA-A01

Apparently the A02 pump and 91370 O-ring had some defect and had to be replaced with a A03 pump and 91345 O ring.

I could find the A02 pump on the internet, but not the A03.
I guess this A03 pump is a dealer-only part.


My '05 odyssey is having the power steering problems (whining, and hard to turn), so my plan is to take it in and try to get a goodwill replacement pump and/or reservoir. If they won't do it, my plan is to do it myself.

My question is, can anyone tell me where to buy the pump and reservoir? Can I find this new A03 pump, or will it have to come from the dealer?

Thanks!
 
#16 ·
Thanks, That's great news if it works.

It only took them 5 years to acknowledge and fix the problem. I'm glad it's being addressed but I'm personally going to have to stay away from Hondas and Acuras for a while. There have been way too many issues with this car. The original brake grinding noise, PAX tires, power steering issues, road and wind noise, wiring harnesses apparently made out of mouse food and more recently, clunking struts and failure of the fluid filled rear engine mount. But the engine and transmission are great! Overall I was very disappointed in this purchase. I had much higher expectations based on Honda's reputation. These were not one off problems with my specific car. These were all systemic design flaws.

Thanks for the information though. I'll update the DIY to reference the TSB.

txn said:
geobrick,

Honda had a TSB 10-076 to fix the stiff steering that used the new parts:
Power Steering Pump: P/N 56110-RGL-A03
O-ring: P/N 91345-RDA-A01

Apparently the A02 pump and 91370 O-ring had some defect and had to be replaced with a A03 pump and 91345 O ring.

I could find the A02 pump on the internet, but not the A03.
I guess this A03 pump is a dealer-only part.
 
#18 ·
On Jan 4, 2011, geobrick wrote:
"It's been a while since I replaced the pump and I can say it didn't really help."
The pump geobrick used in the DIY was the old A02 pump.
 
#22 ·
Couple things, hope someone can help me.....

Alright, my 2007 Ody now has the intermittent dreaded PS drone sound, mostly when engine is warmed up and at 1000-2000 rpm range.

1. First to cleioniii, thanks for lecture on PS Pump, I truely enjoy reading it. Learned something new everyday!!!

2. My car was bought in July 2007, now has 42K miles.
Does anyone know the warranty period for this PS Pump: 3y/36K or 5y/50K?

3. This is what I did this weekend. BTW, whatever you do to the PS system, there is always some spill from the job, so after completing the job, spray some Purple Power engine cleaner and follow it up with some water to clean it.

a. To test the theory that the PS Pump droning noise is from fluid starvation, I use a heater hose as cushion to prevent damage to the Lower PS Hose.
- I used a short 2" section of heater hose and split it in 1/2, and a pair of channel lock pliers as a test. Stay away from the PS lower Outlet (you don't want to clamp the PS Outlet, just the PS Hose). See pic.
- Run engine and gently clamp the Lower PS Hose slowly with the channel lock pliers, and sure enough I reproduced the droning noise, as soon as you hear the droning noise, release the channel lock pliers! So this confirms the theory that the droning noise is caused by fluid starvation (mostly from partially blocked PS Reservoir mesh). BTW, I have seen this problem in other vehicles such as older BMWs.
- Remove the heater hose (used as cushion).

b. I took PS Reservoir out, drained it and turned it upside down.
At the very bottom of the PS Reservoir, there is a fine mesh to trap metal particles. There are very fine metal particles, not much but scattered throughout on top of the filter mesh.
In virtually all vehicles with PS system, this is how PS Fluid flows:
Fluid from Steering Rack returns to upper hose (small hose) ---> into PS Reservoir ---> filtered by the fine mesh ---> Exits PS Reservoir to feed the PS Pump via the larger hose.

c. Re-install the Reservoir, add PS Fluid.

d. Using a telescopic magnet (clean it well first!), I gently drop the telescopic magnet down until it touches the filter mesh (don't force it too much because it can damage the mesh) and "go fishing" a few times, I picked up small particles at the tip of the magnet. Not sure if this is significant.
The droning noise seems to stop but I will update everyone later.

 

Attachments

#28 · (Edited)
Couple things, hope someone can help me.....

3. This is what I did this weekend.

a. To test the theory that the PS Pump droning noise is from fluid starvation, I use a heater hose as cushion to prevent damage to the Lower PS Hose.
- I used a short 2" section of heater hose and split it in 1/2, and a pair of channel lock pliers as a test. Stay away from the PS lower Outlet (you don't want to clamp the PS Outlet, just the PS Hose). See pic.
- Run engine and gently clamp the Lower PS Hose slowly with the channel lock pliers, and sure enough I reproduced the droning noise, as soon as you hear the droning noise, release the channel lock pliers! So this confirms the theory that the droning noise is caused by fluid starvation (mostly from partially blocked PS Reservoir mesh). BTW, I have seen this problem in other vehicles such as older BMWs.
- Remove the heater hose (used as cushion).
Interesting test. It didn't occur to me to test the fluid starvation as being the cause. If I would have thought of doing that kind of test back then, I would have done it just to see it happening on command. The hundreds of posts and the eventual Honda TSP on the issue convinced me that the reservoir was the source of the noise but the test would have been fun to try and it will convince anyone who didn't believe that the reservoir could possibly be the cause of that horrible sound.
 
#23 · (Edited)
* UPDATE: the telescopic magnet trick seem to work fine for now!
- For those who are far away from home/dealer, it does not hurt to try this trick, very very easy to do.
- Just get a $5 telescopic magnet from local autoparts store and "go fishing" a few times wiping away any metal particles every time.
- Then when you get home/dealer, get a new PS Reservoir.

* Another thought: through my internet reading, some people suggest that Honda PS fluid is a bit thick and this may add to the problem.

Question: Has anyone used Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF (thinner fluid) in the PS system in a Honda?
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in the PS system in my 1998 Volvo and 1998 BMW, no issues at all.
 
#24 ·
Update,

Dropped by local Honda dealer and talked to Service Advisor, the PS system is warranted during the 3y/36K period, after that it is good-will, if at all.

So, I picked up a new PS Reservoir for $13 and 6 bottles of PS fluid ($4/each).
Online is a bit cheaper but I have to pay for shipping.
Total parts cost $40, not bad.
 
#38 ·
$2.50 ea. Honda P.S. fluid @ Wally-World

Update,

Dropped by local Honda dealer and talked to Service Advisor, the PS system is warranted during the 3y/36K period, after that it is good-will, if at all.

So, I picked up a new PS Reservoir for $13 and 6 bottles of PS fluid ($4/each)
Online is a bit cheaper but I have to pay for shipping.
Total parts cost $40, not bad.
NOTE:
Honda P/S fluid is $ 2.50 ea @ Wally-World (yea... WalMart)
Gettocar
 
#25 · (Edited)
DIY: PS Reservoir Replacement

I just changed my PS Reservoir and thought you may want to see how it is done.
So I want to add my DIY to this excellent thread on PS Pump Change by “geobrick”.

Here is the DIY PS Reservoir for those who need to change ONLY the PS Reservoir.
NOTE that Honda published “TSB 07-005 PS Whines, Buzzes, or Hums” (see the pdf uploaded by “dvpatel”). The TSB 07-005 procedure calls for draining the PS Fluid until bubbles come out, similar to Auto Trans ATF Flush. But personally I do NOT like the sound of a dry PS Pump, so read on to my technique to prevent running the PS Pump dry!

You will need:
- PS Reservoir PN 53701-SHJ-A02
- Honda dealer normally uses 4 bottles of PS Fluid (12-ounce bottle), but I use 6 bottles total: 4 for the flush and 2 for the final fill-up.
Each bottle is $4 at local Honda dealer. Whatever you do, leave 2 bottles aside for the final fill-up, you don’t want to run out of this PS Fluid at the end!
- Clear Vinyl Tubing with O.D. = 7/16” so you can slide it inside the PS Return Rubber Hose (itself has I.D. of 3/8”). The Clear Vinyl Tubing with O.D. = 7/16” gives it a nice fit inside the PS Return Rubber Hose.
- Short section or rubber hose with I.D. = 3/8” to plug the PS Reservoir UPPER Port. This allows you to fill PS Fluid to the brim of the Reservoir!
- Special Hose Clamp Pliers: $8-10 at local autoparts store. It is much easier with this tool than standard Vice-Grip when it comes to remove this “auto-tension hose clamp”. You can get away with standard Vice-Grip but it can be a struggle!
- Empty Windshield Washer Container to catch old PS Fluid.
- An assistant is nice, but not absolutely needed. If you don't have an assistant, then run engine ONLY for 1.5 seconds!

- When all done, make sure the PS cap is on, then spray the area with “Purple Power” cleaner, then follow it up with about 1 gallon of warm water to clean any spill of PS Fluid.




---
 

Attachments

#26 · (Edited)
PROCEDURE:

1- Lift the PS Reservoir straight UP but don’t remove it yet.
2- Undo the clamps and slide them down a bit.
3- Place some rag under the PS Reservoir to catch any spill.
4- Using the coat hanger, hang the WW container as shown.
5- Using the Turkey Baster, remove as much as PS Fluid as possible and dump it into the WW container.

6- Now disconnect the UPPER hose and slide the Clear Vinyl Tubing inside the rubber hose snugly, then re-install the clamp for a tight fit. Place the other end of the Vinyl Hose inside the WW container. Old dirty PS Fluid will be discharged here.
- Plug the Reservoir Port by using the short section of rubber hose + Vice-Grip, this allows you to fill PS Fluid to the brim of the Reservoir.

7- Fill the PS Reservoir with fresh Honda PS Fluid. One bottle fills the entire the Reservoir almost to the brim.
8- Ask your assistant to run the engine for only 1-2 seconds. As soon as the reservoir is about to empty, STOP the engine to prevent running the PS Pump dry! And YES, the PS Pump sucks the fluid in at an astonishing rate: 12 ounces are sucked in within 1-2 seconds, try and see!
If you don’t have an assistant, run the engine for ONLY 1.5 seconds!

9- Repeat Steps #7-8 two (2) more times. Now you have 1 bottle for final flush before installing new PS Reservoir.
10- At this time, with engine OFF, I turn the Steering Wheel to complete RIGHT and complete LEFT to expel any fluid inside the Steering Rack. It is heavy with engine OFF but you can do it big boys!

11- Now Repeat Steps #7-8 one (1) more time. Now you should have 2 bottles of PS remaining for the final job.
12- Install the NEW PS Reservoir (lift the old PS Reservoir straight UP). Re-install the Hoses and clamps. I make sure the clamps go back to the original indentations they make on the rubber hose (you don’t have to but I like it this way).
13- Fill the Reservoir with Fresh PS Fluid almost to the brim. This is because the system now has air in it and after it is bled, the level will come down nicely.
14- Ask your assistant to run the engine while turning the Steering Wheel to complete RIGHT and complete LEFT, while you watching the Reservoir Fluid: you will see air bubbles come out. Turn the SW to complete RIGHT and complete LEFT another time to be sure. I like to keep my PS Fluid a bit above the Max mark.
15- For some unexplained reasons, the new PS Reservoir FILL hole is slightly larger than the original factory Reservoir (the Red Cap fits snugly in the factory Reservoir while it "feels" a bit loose in the replacement Reservoir). I use Black Electrical Tape to secure it just in case (you don’t have to do this), see picture.

16- - When all done, make sure the PS cap is on, then spray the area with “Purple Power” cleaner, then follow it up with about 1 gallon of warm water to clean any spill of PS Fluid.

NOTE how dark the used PS Fluid is!

That is all folks, very very easy DIY if you follow these steps carefully




---
 

Attachments

#31 ·
05_odyssey,

The A03 pump should fix the hard-to-turn problem.
My van's steering is no longer stiff at low speed after getting the fix in Nov 2010.

Let us know how it turns out for you.
 
#34 ·
05_odyssey,

It's good to hear the A03 pump and the new O-ring did the trick for you.

For others who have the same problem, if your van is still under warranty, bring the van to the dealer and request that they fix it under the TSB 10-076.

If your van is out of warranty, buy the parts like 05_odyssey did and ask an indy shop to replace them for you or you do that yourself.

It's worth it and you will be happier.
 
#36 ·
Just had my wifes 07 Ex-L Res-Nav(48K miles) done under the Honda Care Warranty 0 deduct( first and only extended Warr. ever purchased). They replaced the pump and the tank.
Tank 53701-SHJ-A02
Pump 56110-RGL-A03
PSF_V 08206-9002
Cap
$420 without the HCW Yikes

Huge difference. Hope it stays that way.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top