Power Steering Pump Replacement DIY
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Thread: Power Steering Pump Replacement DIY

  1. #1
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    Power Steering Pump Replacement DIY

    2005 Honda Odyssey Power Steering Pump Replacement

    5 Jan 2011 update: There is now a TSB on this issue.
    See DVPatel's TSP list or click here.
    It changes the part number of the Power Steering Pump and O-ring.


    It's been about a year since I changed my power steering fluid reservoir to correct the noise issue but the Power Steering dead zone remained. At the time the car was out of warranty so I did the work myself (but I still think Honda should have corrected the problem).

    Today I finally decided to replace the Power Steering Pump.

    It's not too hard - took about 2 hours. Here's how I did it.

    Parts (for a 2005 Odyssey) (See new TSP for updated parts)
    The Power Steering Pump # 56110-RGL-A02 (2005) - about $250.00
    The pressure side hose O-Ring - 91370-SV4-000 - about $1.00
    Honda Power Steering Fluid - about $5.00

    Tools:
    A breaker bar with a 19mm socket for loosening the belt tensioner to remove the belt from the pulley.
    A 10mm Socket
    A 12mm Socket
    A 19mm Socket (for above tensioner and for the pulley nut.
    A tiny flat blade screw driver (to remove the o-ring)

    Steps:
    1) I disconnected the negative battery cable (not sure if it's required but I was doing some other work that did require it).
    2) Remove the decorative plastic cover over the engine.
    3) Locate PS Pump (see photos)




    4) I recommend loosening the pulley nut (19mm) first before removing belt and pump. Don't make it very loose; just enough to break it free so it can be removed easier later. It's not easy to loosen (I didn't do it this way but it turns out that the pump is hard to maneuver out with the pulley still attached.


    5) Use breaker bar or something similar to move the belt tensioner counterclockwise. Note: the trick here is to push the breaker bar slowly but firmly. It will not move fast. It's a hydraulic belt tensioner and the faster you push it the harder it pushes back. See photo and drawing for where to loosen tensioner (I didn't draw it).



    6) While the tensioner is being held in position to loosen the belt, remove the belt from the top pulley. Try to tie it out of the way without letting the belt come off the other pulleys (there's very little space and it would probably be very time consuming to have to snake the belt back through all the other pulleys.)
    7) If you didn't loosen the pulley in step 4, try again now.
    8) Remove the Pulley. If you can't, you can continue with the steps then try removing it when the pump is out (but it's hard to maneuver it out when the pulley is still attached (I was able to do it eventually).
    9) Loosen the two 12mm bolts that hold the pump to the engine (the pump just attaches to the engine there are no seals). Look at the new pump to see where these bolts are. I was not able to get a good photo. Don't remove them completely yet.
    10) Loosen the spring clamp on the supply hose and slide it up the hose about 3". Be prepared to lose some fluid (have a towel to catch the small amount). Remove the hose from the PS pump and quickly move it to a position that holds it at a height above the PS Reservoir (to prevent loosing anymore fluid). Also, consider using the clear plastic cover that comes with the new pump to cover the old pump opening to hold some of the fluid in.
    11) Have the new pump and O-ring standing by. In this step you will remove the pressure side hose, pull off the old o-ring, put the new o-ring on and put the hose onto the new pump (all in one step).
    11a) Once again, be prepared to lose some fluid. Have a towel ready to catch it.
    11b) Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the pressure side hose on the pump.
    11c) Remove the hose
    11d) Remove the old o-ring
    11e) Install the new o-ring
    11f) Remove the black cap from the new pump and put it on the old pump (to hold the fluid in)
    11g) Install the hose on the new pump with the 10mm bolts (No need to tighten it yet. Place it on top of the engine until needed in step 13 below.
    12) Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the pump to the engine (see step 9).
    13) Install the new pump with the two 12mm bolts (torque? I'm not sure. I used 25NM)
    14) Attach the Pulley to the new pump (19mm - Torque? Again, I'm not sure. I couldn't even use a torque wrench here. If someone knows, chime in. Make sure it's as tight as it was when you removed it).
    15) If you didn't do so in step 11g, tighten the 10mm bolts for the pressure side hose now (Torque? Again, I'm not sure. I used 12NM).
    16) Install the belt back onto the pulley (use the breaker bar with 19mm socket to move the tensioner to enable installing the belt).
    17) Push the supply hose onto the new pump and slide the spring clip back into place.
    18) follow the steps in the reservoir replacement bulletin to purge air from the Power Steering Fluid system and make sure fluid is at the correct level.

    That's it! You're done!

    My Results: I've noticed a difference, but at idle while standing still, if I try to turn the wheel very, very fast, I still feel a slight resistance (nothing like it was before).

    Out of curiosity I took the old pump apart to see if I could see what was wrong with it but as you can see in the photos below, there was nothing obvious that stands out. It seems to be a very substantial mechanical design and well made too.




    It seems that as the pump turns, the veins would slide outward from centrifugal force but then get push back in as they come to the narrow part of the oval chamber. There's no apparent damage and all the veins move freely so I don't see why this pump wasn't performing well at engine idle speeds.
    Last edited by geobrick; 01-05-2011 at 11:16 PM.
    geobrick
    2005 Touring R&N
    Depaxed since Feb 3, 2009

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  3. #2
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    Re: Power Steering Pump Replacement DIY

    Originally posted by geobrick
    2005 Honda Odyssey Power Steering Pump Replacement
    Geo,
    first of all thanks for the great write up. I want to say that it deserves its own thread either in the 05+ ody forum or diy.
    It is too good of an info to be burried on the 14th page of this thread.
    Please consider reposting!
    thanks,
    Max
    Silver/Grey 2005 Odyssey EXL R&N
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  4. #3
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    Thanks. I'm sure people can find it with the search tool.

    The write up actually took longer than the repair! I did it because couldn't find a similar DIY and I know how much I appreciate finding a good DIY when I have a problem (especially with good photos and step by step descriptions). It's one of my favorite things about the internet.
    geobrick
    2005 Touring R&N
    Depaxed since Feb 3, 2009

  5. #4
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    Geo. Great post and photos!

    Based on your over view of the pump, any further suggestions on why the pump was failing?

    It looks to be a very simple design....

    regards

  6. #5
    Super Moderator dvpatel's Avatar
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    Split out the DIY as I agree it would be burried pretty quick. Here's to hoping the folks with questions about the problem itself ask in the other thread ( Power Steering Pump ) and only ask questions pertaining to the actual DIY in this thread.

    Nice DIY geo.

    When I use this smilie ===> I am NOT calling you stupid.

    The value of a forum such as this one is not in that one can post a question and receive an answer, but in that the question has most likely been asked before, and the answer is available to him that will but only use the search function.

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    bump

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    2002 EX-L

    I was wondering GEO did you have a whining sound before you replaced the pump , and did it go away after ?

  9. #8
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    Re: 2002 EX-L

    Originally posted by odysseusChariot
    I was wondering GEO did you have a whining sound before you replaced the pump , and did it go away after ?
    I fixed the whining sound last year by replacing the reservoir with the new design however the stiff steering problem remained after that.

    I lived with the stiff steering at idle speeds for a while because I am not the main driver (and my wife didn't have a problem with it). A year later I finally decided to replace the pump. (Honda refused to replace the reservoir or pump under a curtsey warrantee which added to my dislike of Honda as a company based on the far too many design related issues we had with the 2005 Odyssey (with Pax) - I actually tried to sell the Odyssey last year but I couldn't find what I wanted as a replacement so I decided to wait).

    I can't identify anything in the old part that seems like a problem but I haven't noticed the problem happening in the 4 times I've driven the car since I replaced the pump. It only used to happen in very specific circumstances like when turning the wheel very quickly while the car is barely moving and the engine is at idle speed (Like turning into a parking spot). It could be that I haven't been in that circumstance yet. When I tested the car after the replacement, I still felt a slight resistance to a very fast turn of the steering wheel while not moving but it was nothing like we had before.

    If someone else knows more about the PS pump and can share their knowledge of what could be failing in there, I'd like to know what they think.
    Last edited by geobrick; 01-04-2011 at 09:30 PM.
    geobrick
    2005 Touring R&N
    Depaxed since Feb 3, 2009

  10. #9
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    I had a mechanic replace my pump and reservoir as a side job for $75. He appreciated the documentation.

    Thanks
    Richard
    4 years next October until I get another one (barring an accident of course) but it is running so well that I don't know if I will replace it.
    2006 EX Slate Green/Gray Cloth

  11. #10
    cnn
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    Hey geobrick,

    Couple questions:

    1. I thought the tensioner pulley adjustment is via the 14-mm bolt. I posted the info here:
    serp belt tensioner pulley help

    2. What is the Follow-up: is it the PS Reservoir or the Pump being the culprit?
    cnn: 2007 Odyssey LX

  12. #11
    Registered User Dirkdaddy's Avatar
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    Originally posted by cnn
    Hey geobrick,

    Couple questions:

    1. I thought the tensioner pulley adjustment is via the 14-mm bolt. I posted the info here:
    serp belt tensioner pulley help

    2. What is the Follow-up: is it the PS Reservoir or the Pump being the culprit?
    In my case I replaced both and new fluid and still whines, I think its the alternator bearing based on listening to the case with stethoscope compared to a neighbors same van. they already replaced alternator.
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    Re: Re: 2002 EX-L

    Originally posted by geobrick
    I fixed the whining sound last year by replacing the reservoir with the new design however the stiff steering problem remained after that.

    I lived with the stiff steering at idle speeds that for a while because I am not the main driver (and my wife didn't have a problem with it). A year later I finally decided to replace the pump. (Honda refused to replace the reservoir or pump under a curtsey warrantee which added to my dislike of Honda as a company based on the many issues we had with the 2005 with Pax - I actually tried to sell the Odyssey last year but I couldn't find what I wanted as a replacement so I decided to wait).

    I can't identify anything in the old part that seems like a problem but I haven't noticed the problem happening in the 4 times I've driven the car since I replaced the pump. It only used to happen in very specific circumstances like when turning the wheel very quickly while the car is barely moving and the engine is at idle speed (Like turning into a parking spot). It could be that I haven't been in that circumstance yet. When I tested the car after the replacement, I still felt a slight resistance to a very fast turn of the steering wheel while not moving but it was nothing like we had before.

    If someone else knows more about the PS pump and can share their knowledge of what could be failing in there, I'd like to know what they think.
    Great DIY, I may be following your steps myself sometime over the next few days!

    WRT to your question on the pump, I am an engineer in the auto industry with some experience with vane pumps. The answer is that vane pumps are extremely high precision devices with very tight contact tolerances on the mating parts (the vane, housing, and the shaft that turns the vanes). The tolerances are so tight that the parts are typically finished in a climate-controlled grinding cell with a common set of measurement gages and grinding machines. The sliding vanes can make up for some uniform defect, like a manufacturing offset, but they cannot make up for even a few thousandths of an inch in runout on the shaft or wear on the housing that is not even. At the pressures in the PS system (some vehicles run as high as 150 bar), even wear that you can't see with the naked eye causes internal leakdown, hard steering, and ultimately noise. The slower the pump is turning, the more time there is for the fluid to leak across from the high pressure side of the vane to the low pressure side, thus you see the onset of wear at idle first. Hope you find this somewhat useful!

  14. #13
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    Re: Re: Re: 2002 EX-L

    Originally posted by cleioniii
    Great DIY, I may be following your steps myself sometime over the next few days!

    WRT to your question on the pump, I am an engineer in the auto industry with some experience with vane pumps. The answer is that vane pumps are extremely high precision devices with very tight contact tolerances on the mating parts (the vane, housing, and the shaft that turns the vanes). The tolerances are so tight that the parts are typically finished in a climate-controlled grinding cell with a common set of measurement gages and grinding machines. The sliding vanes can make up for some uniform defect, like a manufacturing offset, but they cannot make up for even a few thousandths of an inch in runout on the shaft or wear on the housing that is not even. At the pressures in the PS system (some vehicles run as high as 150 bar), even wear that you can't see with the naked eye causes internal leakdown, hard steering, and ultimately noise. The slower the pump is turning, the more time there is for the fluid to leak across from the high pressure side of the vane to the low pressure side, thus you see the onset of wear at idle first. Hope you find this somewhat useful!
    Yes your answer is useful in explaining how wear that can't be seen can still allow high presure leaking to the low presure side.

    It's been a while since I replaced the pump and I can say it didn't really help. There's something else going on. Maybe the design is off a bit. Maybe the pulley diameter needs to be a fraction smaller so the pump turns faster at idle. I still have the van but not for long. My wife decided to get a sedan (too bad because I like the concept of the mini van - I was looking forward to trying the new sienna).
    geobrick
    2005 Touring R&N
    Depaxed since Feb 3, 2009

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    Originally posted by cnn
    Hey geobrick,

    Couple questions:

    1. I thought the tensioner pulley adjustment is via the 14-mm bolt. I posted the info here:
    serp belt tensioner pulley help
    It looks like you were using the bolt in the center of the pulley.

    The drawing I show has a 19mm bolt head thats not on the actual pulley but on the pulley's frame. (I think it's not really a bolt but part of the pulley structure.).
    Last edited by geobrick; 01-04-2011 at 10:41 PM.
    geobrick
    2005 Touring R&N
    Depaxed since Feb 3, 2009

  16. #15
    txn
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    geobrick,

    If you still have stiff steering at low speed, maybe this will help you.

    I noticed in your #1 post that you use these parts:

    Parts (for a 2005 Odyssey):
    The Power Steering Pump # 56110-RGL-A02 (2005) - about $250.00
    The pressure side hose O-Ring - 91370-SV4-000 - about $1.00

    Honda had a TSB 10-076 to fix the stiff steering that used the new parts:
    Power Steering Pump: P/N 56110-RGL-A03
    O-ring: P/N 91345-RDA-A01

    Apparently the A02 pump and 91370 O-ring had some defect and had to be replaced with a A03 pump and 91345 O ring.

    I could find the A02 pump on the internet, but not the A03.
    I guess this A03 pump is a dealer-only part.
    2008 Odyssey EXL w/ RES (CPO)
    - Dec 2010: TSB 10-076 Steering Hard to Turn Quickly at Low Speed
    TSB 10-017 (Air In VSA Modulator-Control Unit Causes Low/Soft Brake Pedal)

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