2005 Honda Odyssey Power Steering Pump Replacement
5 Jan 2011 update: There is now a TSB on this issue.
See DVPatel's TSP list or click here.
It changes the part number of the Power Steering Pump and O-ring.
It's been about a year since I changed my power steering fluid reservoir to correct the noise issue but the Power Steering dead zone remained. At the time the car was out of warranty so I did the work myself (but I still think Honda should have corrected the problem).
Today I finally decided to replace the Power Steering Pump.
It's not too hard - took about 2 hours. Here's how I did it.
Parts (for a 2005 Odyssey) (See new TSP for updated parts)
The Power Steering Pump # 56110-RGL-A02 (2005) - about $250.00
The pressure side hose O-Ring - 91370-SV4-000 - about $1.00
Honda Power Steering Fluid - about $5.00
A breaker bar with a 19mm socket for loosening the belt tensioner to remove the belt from the pulley.
A 10mm Socket
A 12mm Socket
A 19mm Socket (for above tensioner and for the pulley nut.
A tiny flat blade screw driver (to remove the o-ring)
1) I disconnected the negative battery cable (not sure if it's required but I was doing some other work that did require it).
2) Remove the decorative plastic cover over the engine.
3) Locate PS Pump (see photos)
4) I recommend loosening the pulley nut (19mm) first before removing belt and pump. Don't make it very loose; just enough to break it free so it can be removed easier later. It's not easy to loosen (I didn't do it this way but it turns out that the pump is hard to maneuver out with the pulley still attached.
5) Use breaker bar or something similar to move the belt tensioner counterclockwise. Note: the trick here is to push the breaker bar slowly but firmly. It will not move fast. It's a hydraulic belt tensioner and the faster you push it the harder it pushes back. See photo and drawing for where to loosen tensioner (I didn't draw it).
6) While the tensioner is being held in position to loosen the belt, remove the belt from the top pulley. Try to tie it out of the way without letting the belt come off the other pulleys (there's very little space and it would probably be very time consuming to have to snake the belt back through all the other pulleys.)
7) If you didn't loosen the pulley in step 4, try again now.
8) Remove the Pulley. If you can't, you can continue with the steps then try removing it when the pump is out (but it's hard to maneuver it out when the pulley is still attached (I was able to do it eventually).
9) Loosen the two 12mm bolts that hold the pump to the engine (the pump just attaches to the engine there are no seals). Look at the new pump to see where these bolts are. I was not able to get a good photo. Don't remove them completely yet.
10) Loosen the spring clamp on the supply hose and slide it up the hose about 3". Be prepared to lose some fluid (have a towel to catch the small amount). Remove the hose from the PS pump and quickly move it to a position that holds it at a height above the PS Reservoir (to prevent loosing anymore fluid). Also, consider using the clear plastic cover that comes with the new pump to cover the old pump opening to hold some of the fluid in.
11) Have the new pump and O-ring standing by. In this step you will remove the pressure side hose, pull off the old o-ring, put the new o-ring on and put the hose onto the new pump (all in one step).
11a) Once again, be prepared to lose some fluid. Have a towel ready to catch it.
11b) Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the pressure side hose on the pump.
11c) Remove the hose
11d) Remove the old o-ring
11e) Install the new o-ring
11f) Remove the black cap from the new pump and put it on the old pump (to hold the fluid in)
11g) Install the hose on the new pump with the 10mm bolts (No need to tighten it yet. Place it on top of the engine until needed in step 13 below.
12) Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the pump to the engine (see step 9).
13) Install the new pump with the two 12mm bolts (torque? I'm not sure. I used 25NM)
14) Attach the Pulley to the new pump (19mm - Torque? Again, I'm not sure. I couldn't even use a torque wrench here. If someone knows, chime in. Make sure it's as tight as it was when you removed it).
15) If you didn't do so in step 11g, tighten the 10mm bolts for the pressure side hose now (Torque? Again, I'm not sure. I used 12NM).
16) Install the belt back onto the pulley (use the breaker bar with 19mm socket to move the tensioner to enable installing the belt).
17) Push the supply hose onto the new pump and slide the spring clip back into place.
18) follow the steps in the reservoir replacement bulletin to purge air from the Power Steering Fluid system and make sure fluid is at the correct level.
That's it! You're done!
My Results: I've noticed a difference, but at idle while standing still, if I try to turn the wheel very, very fast, I still feel a slight resistance (nothing like it was before).
Out of curiosity I took the old pump apart to see if I could see what was wrong with it but as you can see in the photos below, there was nothing obvious that stands out. It seems to be a very substantial mechanical design and well made too.
It seems that as the pump turns, the veins would slide outward from centrifugal force but then get push back in as they come to the narrow part of the oval chamber. There's no apparent damage and all the veins move freely so I don't see why this pump wasn't performing well at engine idle speeds.