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Door alarm

64K views 22 replies 14 participants last post by  hpark21 
#1 ·
I have searched and searched for a solution and reluctantly decided to start a thread. My 05 touring auto door alarm goes off when shifting out of park. Only way to get it to quit buzzing is to manually shut off automatic door switch. There are no dash lights showing a door being open. The alarm/buzzer is intermittent. I doesn't do it every trip. Opening and closing doors usually does not solve it. I looked for contacts to clean and I have found none. I saw some threads with people saying they took it to the dealer and got it fixed, with minimal explanation of what the dealer did. I am trying to avoid taking it to a dealer. I have searched the TSB's, searched the forums and any help is appreciated. I really thought there would be a TSB about this, many people have had this problem. The best i can gather from the threads that talk about problems similar to this is that the door might need adjusting. Any help is appreciated. If someone helps me solve this, I promise to come back on here with pictures and a good explanation of what solved this problem.
 
#2 ·
I too have an 05 Touring and the same alarm has begun! I have tried all the doors, and cannot get it off. I'll have to check to find the on/off switch you described. It drives me crazy...has anyone posted a fix elsewhere?
 
#3 ·
This thread seems to talk about it some.

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/26576-buzzing-noise-passenger-sliding-door.html

I finally had to take mine into a dealer. After a couple of super cold days, the door would not function electronically at all. I Drive up to the dealer service entrance and the stupid thing opens right up. Luckily the alarm/buzz/tone/whatever was still going off. The service guy was able to look at it and witness the problem. When he drove it off to the garage to be looked at, it the alarm quit. They looked at it for two days while they fixed some other recall items on it. They never could get it to recreate the problem, they lubed everything. The door still does it almost all the time. During all this I showed the above thread to the service manager and told him, I'm not the only one with this problem. I begged him to call someone at Honda corporate. He called his regional service manager and he said no chance Honda was going to pay to have it fixed. Said too many miles and 2nd owner blah blah blah. This is a serious problem, there just are not enough people that have had the problem for a recall. Anything this unsafe on a large scale would get a recall. I explained to the guy that it is the "latch" that is not engaged. I explained to him that the door has popped open going down the road with my kids in it. He seemed concerned about it but the regional service guy didn't give a crap about it. They said they could replace the latch system for 800 bucks. I said no thanks, this is a serious problem you guys should fix. Whenever the alarm is going off i just turn the auto door switch off, electronically lock the doors, then i manually unlock my door walk around and try to open the bad door(to make sure it wont open up going down the road), then get back in and lock the doors. Its so much fun. My one year old daughter is on that side with the bad door so its worth it to me to make sure the door wont come open.

I think there is another thread somewhere that shows the latch problem in pictures. If I find it I will post it on here.
 
#4 ·
I found the other thread I was talking about. I don't think the main problem is the same as ours. I would however, like to try what they do in this thread to see if it solves my problem. I bet there is a decent chance it would solve it. I'm just so unbelievably busy right now I have not had time to try it. I also found one more thread talking about our problem, no solutions as of yet though.

Latch repair thread
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/54192-2005-ody-ls-sliding-door-latch.html


Additional sliding door latch alarm thread
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/148074-sliding-door-problem-constant-tone.html
 
#5 ·
potential workaround

The other day the passenger sliding door was doing the usual constant tone problem. I usually just turn the auto door switch off and lock and make sure it is locked from the outside(so it wont open going down the road). This day I decided to mess with it. I pushed the auto close button a few times with no luck, then I had my wife open the passenger front door and pushed the auto passenger sliding door button and the door completely closed and did not have the tone. I guess the sliding door and the front door are not meshing together well. It has not had the tone since I did this. When it does it again( and I know it will), I will test this again and see if it stops the tone.
 
#6 ·
When researching the sliding door problems you have to separate the gen2 from the 05+ posts. Gen2 has contacts on the front edge of the doors to couple signals to the door. T don't have a diagram for the 05+ but would guess they have some sort of switches to control the door. Switches can get flaky and make/break due to temperature change and vibration. The easiest way I have found in 50 years of service is with an ohmmeter. Slowly closing/opening the switch and watch for it to make/break several times as it closes. You first need an OEM service manual for the van so you can determine what and where the switches are.There is no quick easy answer to the fix and takes time to diagnose.
 
#7 ·
OK, gotta revive this thread as our 2005 LX started having this problem this morning. It was pretty cold last night, and we're experiencing the same issue (side door alarm going on when they're closed) and using the lock-out button stops it. I've found several threads mentioning cleaning sensors with an eraser but I am not sure if that applies to our model Odyssey. If there is an easy solution I would like to try it before taking the van to a repair shop/dealer (it's out of warranty so I may just use a local garage that I trust).

Cheers! M2
 
#8 ·
majormadmax, unfortunately I think the 05+ generation ody has no door contact sensors to clean. I don't think you can solve your problem that way. This link http://http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/54192-2005-ody-ls-sliding-door-latch.html is the starting point to solving your problems. I will say that I strongly disagree that it is a frozen pivot problem. I fixed the door once with the solution in the link and it was malfunctioning again within a month. I attempted the problem a second time and I think the following solved my problems. In that thread you will see pictures of the pivot cam and you will also see blue electronic switches. The blue electronic switches were the key to solving my problem. I bent the metal arms on the blue switches(gently) to where they would apply more force on the button inside those blue electronic switches. Be sure and clean everything very well and make sure the cams are working, but I believe the root problem lies in the blue switches not getting fully depressed. I did this about a year ago and have not had any problems since then. Let me know if this solves your problem because just cleaning and freeing the cams did not solve the problem for me.
 
#9 ·
Thanks Czar, I'll give that a try and let you know the results.

The wife called Honda today and they said there was no recall or TSB on such an issue, but if we wanted to bring it in they'd check it out (and charge us accordingly for the honor).

I will see if I can take a shot at this myself, if not I will pass it on to the garage I trust to work on all our vehicles.

Cheers! M2
 
#10 ·
Well. oddly enough the issue went away on its own!

It happened after one unusually cold night for southcentral Texas, but about a day or two later I just happened to flip the lock-out button off and no buzzer!

I suspect this may not be the end of this problem, but for the time being I don't see any reason to mess around with it until such time as it happens again. I'll keep everyone posted.

Cheers! M2
 
#11 ·
My 05 Odyssey just started the same issue but the door won't open either. I went to pick up my child from preschool and the door wouldn't open. I just had him go through the right side door and then I crawled across to buckle him in. It seems to be stuck in lock mode and I can't even manually get it to unlock. The next day the buzzing started when I took it out of park. I don't know what to do. It was fine in the morning when I took him to school.
 
#12 ·
I have just bought a 2000 Honda Odyssey and today when taking my daughter to dance class I was driving down the road and all of a sudden the door alarm started to go off. I pulled over opened the door and closed it, got back in and it was still doing it. While I was inside with dance class I looked out and my left side sliding door was wide open. I was wondering if anyone else has had the same issue and if you know how it can be fixed? thanks
 
#13 ·
Just another update to this problem. After previous fixes were applied the problems continued. So I just replaced to whole part described in this thread. http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/54192-2005-ody-ls-sliding-door-latch.html This has solved the problems for over a year now. For more information of how to access the closer motor see this thread. http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/54192-2005-ody-ls-sliding-door-latch.html My advise is that if you can afford the part, replace the whole assembly and save yourself some recurring headaches.
 
#14 ·
Thanks czar3398.

Do you have any advice how to determine which door mechanism is causing the problem?
 
#15 ·
Strider, Assuming your van is 05+ and the problems described above are the same its probably a rear locking mechanism. The problematic part for me was the rear locking mechanism on my driver side sliding door. If I were to guess which side, its probably the door you use the most. The mechanism they are talking about in this thread http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/54192-2005-ody-ls-sliding-door-latch.html is the part. There are pictures of the part in the thread. My problem wasn't exactly the same as that thread but the part was. As stated in the thread just spend the money and replace yourself or have someone do it. I spent way too much effort trying to repair the part. I ordered my part from majestic honda and you can find diagrams to order the part. Here is the diagram Honda Automotive Parts Part 33 and 10 are the parts based on right or left side.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Total time to fix: 20 minutes or less
Total cost: $5 or less
Difficulty: very easy

Tools required:
spray can of white lithium grease
Screwdriver (or other round-shank handled tool)


I had a similar problem on my 2007 EXL w/ RES. After messing with it repeatedly in sub-freezing and t-shirt weather (in the same week. I live in Kansas), and driving for a couple weeks with the power the door power switch off to preserve my sanity, I finally attacked the hinges and latch mechanisms with white lithium grease. I like it because it doesn’t gunk up as bad as WD, and it coats pretty well. Stays put and tends to slough off when it gets too dirty. It’s my go-to when I’m lubing bicycle chains. You have to remember that the latch mechanisms are both on the front of the door and the rear of the door. In my amateur opinion, the mechanism on the rear edge of the door is possibly more important. It is also often overlooked, maybe because most of us grew up with minivans that only had one latch on the sliding door(s), and it was at the front edge toward the B-pillar.

In other similar threads, I’ve seen people suggest that temperature is a key factor that affects this problem. I tend to agree, because lubrication is affected greatly by temperature. To me, this is primarily a problem of lubrication. In many cases, I suspect faulty electronics have nothing to do with it. If a door is not lubricated well enough, then the door will require more effort to move, and the smaller moving parts may not work right, either. Latches may not spring or catch, bearings may seize, et cetera. Eventually that might cause other parts to wear out prematurely, like motors or switches. All things that can be fixed by the committed DIY weekender, but also problems there could maybe be avoided with a $10 can of spray lubricant and some attention to detail.

My fix: liberally spray the latches on the front edge of the door, towards the B-pillar, and also the hinge at the rear of the door, toward the C-pillar. Use something (I used the shaft of a screwdriver) to manually move the latch mechanism up and down, to help the lubricant coat the various moving parts. You should notice that the latches move more freely, smoothly, with less pressure. Finally, spray white lithium grease in all the tracks and bearings, upper and lower, also the bearings of the hinge mechanism in the main track at the middle of the door, which pivots as the door reaches the closed position.

your mileage may vary, but after I did all that spraying and wiggling, within a few cycles opening/closing the doors, I noticed a difference in the sound and the motion. The doors closed quieter, and the movement was smoother, less jerky. Most importantly, they closed securely, and there was no more noise of the door ajar alarm.

An added bonus: the middle hinge mechanism can fail on these vans, and I almost replaced mine due to them sticking and not pivoting correctly as the doors closed. The symptom was the passenger side sliding door would close halfway, then stop and open back up, as if it had pinched a small child. Got some white lithium grease in the hinge bearings and tracks. Problem solved. My spare parts remain unused in the box.
 
#19 ·
Got some white lithium grease in the hinge bearings and tracks. Problem solved. My spare parts remain unused in the box.
I'd suggest you keep those replacement parts around, you might need them eventually. Lubing the tracks is usually only a temporary fix, allowing the bad rollers to slide easier, even though the rollers are still bad.
 
#21 ·
FYI, I noticed for the first time today that my passenger side door was not latching all the way on the rear side. Knowing this is such a common issue, I suspect a new rear door latch may be in my future, or perhaps new microswitches and a good cleaning and lubrication of the existing latch.
Meanwhile, I did the lubrication method described above by removing each bolt and spraying white lithium grease inside as best I could. I did both doors. This seems to have resolved the issue as the passenger door is latching properly now. I suspect this will be a temporary fix.
 
#23 ·
Rear door latch. It could be the switch or the whole gears may have been seized because of dried up lubrication.
POSSIBLY, you can just undo the 3 bolts in the back, spray in lubrication and see if it frees up the gears (if gears are seized up). Use long straw and there are 2 spots - about 3 inches in and just under the bolts.

Spray in and try closing the door several times and see if it free up the mechanism.

You can try retrieving DTC by using the aluminum foil trick and see what may be the issue. It will also tell you which side you are having the issue with unless it is obvious.
 
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