05 Compressor clutch troubleshooting - Page 24
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Thread: 05 Compressor clutch troubleshooting

  1. #346
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    So I pulled out the old today in anticipation of the new one arriving in the mail tomorrow or fri. I decided to run some tests. I tested continuity from the relay pin to the stator plug and was good, then checked the other pin of the plug to ground and was good. I did not get continuity on the old stator. Now what setting should I be using for resistance? On 20k I got anywhere from 2.5-3.5 although usually was below 3. If I set to 2000 or 200 I got no reading.

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  3. #347
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    If the resistance is is 2.5 ohms then current would be around 5 amps. However, your readings are suspect. If you're getting voltage down to the plug then it's pretty much certain it's no good. Resistance checks are not always an indication of whether or not something is good.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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  4. #348
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    All the symptoms definitely point to it. If the replacement one works, I'll prob crack this one open and see if I can find anything odd with it.

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  6. #349
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    Got my stator today and replaced it and AC is blowing cold again! Thanks for all the help on this!
    I ran into some issues, but the biggest one was the gap was incorrect and ended up having to find some replacement washers at ACE to get the gap right.

  7. #350
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Great to hear!
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black
    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

  8. #351
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    Well I had the issue with the bad stator on my 2005 Odyssey Touring. Measured infinity on the multimeter where the relay is located. I measured the gap at the clutch and it was .75mm before I even touched it. I wonder if that is what led to the stator failing. I thought the 10mm bolt on the clutch may have backed out just a touch over the years causing the large gap. A/C had never been worked on before.

    Anyway, thanks to all who have gone before in this thread. It really helped me out. I used the snap ring pliers from Harbor Freight recommended from a couple of pages back. I did have to use the widening trick on the smaller pliers to get the one snap ring on. Also on the larger pliers I had to Dremel some of the diameter off of the prongs that go into the snap ring in order to get them to fit the snap ring holes.

    One issue I had was the connector on the new stator was different from the old stator connector. The new stator was 38924-RGL-A01, ordered from a Honda dealership online. I put the old wiring and connector back on the stator and all was good to go. I have the gap set at .35mm for the clutch, and per CNN's recommendation, I put a little thread locker on the 10mm bolt to keep it from backing out.

    Cold A/C again!!!
    2005 Odyssey Touring
    Original Owner

  9. #352
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    I doubt the gap had anything to do with the stator going bad. It might cause the clutch disc to wear a little prematurely but wouldn't really affect the stator itself. Most likely the relay has been sticking on and leaving the stator on for long periods of time. This is a common problem/failure with the relay used in this circuit.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

  10. #353
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    Oh yeah, I did order the relays from Amazon and got those replaced as well. Hopefully this wont happen again for awhile. Thanks again everyone.
    2005 Odyssey Touring
    Original Owner

  11. #354
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    So,,, over the last 5 weeks and 2 trips to the dealership... over 300 dollars in diagnostic fees plus spending money on replacing the condenser, charging it and replacing the compressor I'm over 800 dollars into this headache and still no cold air in my 2007 Odyssey.

    First of all, my A/C started blowing warm air so I took it to the dealer thinking I needed a recharge or had a leak.. turns out they told me I had a leak and wanted to change the condenser at a cost of $1000, so I said no thanks and had a buddy do it for me.... that didn't fix the problem so I checked the relay and fuses to see if any were burned out but everything was fine, so back to the dealer I went for a diagnostic and this time they too changed relays, claimed to check the charge on the system (no leaks by the way since the condenser was replaced) and supposedly traced the problem to a defective stator and this time wanted $1100 to replace the compressor so I said no thanks and ordered a new compressor on Amazon and had my buddy change it out..... compressor is still not kicking on.... I don't know what else to check out..... the dealership had claimed I had power up to the compressor but I don't know if I can believe them since they also claimed to have charged my system without the compressor kicking on..... oh and as a special bonus.... my buddy put power to the compressor that he had removed,,,, and guess what... it kicked on which to me means the stator was never defective and I never needed to replace the compressor.... any suggestions on what to check now would be appreciated... I live in Texas... this van is completely undriveable until I get the A/C fixed....

  12. #355
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Why does your buddy not check to see if there is power going to the compressor? That's the first thing to check.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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  13. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Clark View Post
    Why does your buddy not check to see if there is power going to the compressor? That's the first thing to check.
    The dealer told me I had power to the compressor..

  14. #357
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    But lets assume they lied... i have checked fuses and relay... so if there was no power to compressor what could be the cause of that?

  15. #358
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    The dealer told you that you needed a new condenser. That sounds like it was BS. You need a new mechanic. Here's what I would do if it were mine.

    Run the engine.
    Turn on the AC.
    If it doesn't work I'd check for powers and grounds at the relay. A test light is a great and simple tool here. There should be two terminals that have power all the time. Are there two terminals with power? Yes or no.

    If yes, then I would jump pins 1 and 2 and see if the compressor turns on. If it doesn't, I'd find the wire connector that goes to the compressor and check to see if it's getting power. If it is then the problem is either between that wire and the compressor or the connection is corroded and the wire can't carry the necessary current. Simple as that.

    The only other way you wouldn't get the AC to work if there was power at the compressor wire is if the ground to the engine block is no good. Check all your battery cables, ground connections, etc. Any decent shop should be able to get this working, or at least positively diagnose it, within an hour. If not, I'd take it to another shop. Remember, the dealer is NOT always the best place for any diagnostics.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black
    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

  16. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Clark View Post
    The dealer told you that you needed a new condenser. That sounds like it was BS. You need a new mechanic. Here's what I would do if it were mine.

    Run the engine.
    Turn on the AC.
    If it doesn't work I'd check for powers and grounds at the relay. A test light is a great and simple tool here. There should be two terminals that have power all the time. Are there two terminals with power? Yes or no.

    If yes, then I would jump pins 1 and 2 and see if the compressor turns on. If it doesn't, I'd find the wire connector that goes to the compressor and check to see if it's getting power. If it is then the problem is either between that wire and the compressor or the connection is corroded and the wire can't carry the necessary current. Simple as that.

    The only other way you wouldn't get the AC to work if there was power at the compressor wire is if the ground to the engine block is no good. Check all your battery cables, ground connections, etc. Any decent shop should be able to get this working, or at least positively diagnose it, within an hour. If not, I'd take it to another shop. Remember, the dealer is NOT always the best place for any diagnostics.
    The condenser might have had a hole in it,, that one I'm not very sure about since it started with me getting warm air on the driver side and cool air on the passenger side until both sides started blowing hot.... so that one might have been needed,, but I know 100 percent for sure that I didn't need a new stator or a new compressor so that was a massive waste of money.....

    I appreciate the guidance, and I will try to trace out the power.. and I have now learned my lesson..... the dealer is NOT the best place to get a diagnostic... they totally gave me the wrong diagnosis...

    will update you soon as I can...

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