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Sound Deadening/Upgrade on my 2014 EXL

30K views 29 replies 18 participants last post by  yapi 
#1 · (Edited)
Our vans are awesome... and noisy. The sound system is actually pretty solid, but hit the road and you're met with a lot of road noise, wind noise and misc. noisey noises. I decided to attempt a remedy. Based on the expertise of Don at sounddeadenershowdown.com, I purchased CLD and rolls of CCF and MLV. Google or go to his site to decipher that alphabet soup if you're not already savvy on the topic.

First, I removed basically the entire interior. Seats and all. What I noticed is little to no factory sound deadening materials used. Either sparce or entirely non-existent:
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The interior is extremely easy to remove. Very few tricks required. The headliner I did leave in place until time to do the roof because of all the wiring secured to it. Decided it would just let it hang down a bit when the time came to work up there.

Next, I put CLD (Stinger Road Kill Expert) on flat unsupported sheet metal sections I figured were prone to vibration. Don at SDS recommends 25% coverage. All too often you see excess amount of CLD (Dynamat) use for little to no gain.
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#2 · (Edited)
After the CLD was applied, the next step was to add the CCF/MLV combo where possible. MLV is just heavy rubber and acts like a barrier to reduce transmission of airborne noise. CCF acts as its decoupler to prevent direction contact and between the MLV and the structure of the car. The CCF I purchased (NOICO) has a very serious adhesive backing, which I applied directly to the MLV.
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#26 ·
After the CLD was applied, the next step was to add the CCF/MLV combo where possible..
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Hello cmadki4,
I have a 2016 Ody and plan to replace stock speakers in the front door and rear sliding door. Since I'll be removing the trim, I was wondering whats a quick(but reasonably effective) thing I can do for sound deadening on these doors? without spending a ton of time...
 
#3 ·
After I got the CCF/MLV layers in where ever possible (door panels, floor and side panels), I dropped the headliner down and let it hang by some string to keep it from straining the wiring that is running everywhere up there. I then rolled on the CLD in between the various supports. Not pictured is another layer of King Frost R3 foil-backed insulation, just for thermal purposes. Popular with the Corvette crowd.
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I started buttoning back up the floor with carpet, trim and seats. I needed to get it into driving condition for the following work week.
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While I had the interior a part I also wanted to upgrade the door speakers and subwoofer. Why not, right? The stock system doesn't sound that bad, but while I was at it and already having to remove the speakers any, figured I would upgrade them. I bough the door speakers from Crutchfield since they come with the Honda connectors and adapters for free. Bought the subwoofer and amp off Amazon.

The subwoofer enclosure got some polyfill (from a pillow) and I wired up the new sub with a larger rubber grommet for the large gauge speaker wire.
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#4 ·
The stock subwoofer, according to the label on the enclosure, was only powered by 50W at 2 Ohms. The replacement sub is also 2 Ohm, but I got a little tiny 200W amp that is 2 Ohm stable. I powered this off the rear fuse panel where a 30A 40A block fuse would go. The amp is hiding behind the rear fuse box. Perfect fit.
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I used the stock subwoofer output (speaker level) to input into the amp's high level input. I made a special cable using the amp's adapter and the original wire/connect that lead to the stock sub.
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The remote line that turns the amp on is wired a terminal strip I added which taps off the rear accessory port (cigarette lighter type). I added this terminal strip as a junction, because I also ended up adding a couple USB charging ports to the 3rd row.
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#24 ·
The stock subwoofer, according to the label on the enclosure, was only powered by 50W at 2 Ohms. The replacement sub is also 2 Ohm, but I got a little tiny 200W amp that is 2 Ohm stable. I powered this off the rear fuse panel where a 30A 40A block fuse would go. The amp is hiding behind the rear fuse box. Perfect fit.
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I'd love to know more about how you hooked this up exactly to the rear fuse box... I'm about to attempt a small amp install and would rather get the power from here rather than running a cable all the way to the battery... thanks
 
#5 ·
Summary

As most who have added amplifiers and/or subs have attested to, you get a hum out of the sub with the doors closed. This is because of the ANC. Not wanting to do anything too permanent or intrusive I tracked down the ANC control unit and unplugged it. Ta-da! At least on the EXL non-RES this unit is quite easy to get to. Just pop off the passenger side dash trim.
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Overall, I am please with the outcome. It is not as drastic as I had hoped, but it does make a difference. There is an obvious reduction in low frequency road noise and mid frequency harmonic hum when at interstate speeds. I can now hear my kids better from the 2nd row. The sound of the rain is not inaudible on the roof and can really only be heard hitting the windshield.

Running a simple decibel meter app on the same stretch of road at the same speed before and after there is a 5-6 dB drop. When monitoring the frequencies (again, an app so probably only good for comparative purposes, not accurate values) the low frequency noise at the driver's position was reduced 30-40% and mid frequencies about the same. Higher frequencies stayed about the same which I attribute a lot to wind noise, which I did nothing to address.

The subwoofer sounds good. A lot of punch without requiring a lot of power. The new door speakers sound clearer and voices are more audible in the 2nd row with the addition of the built in tweeter. Eliminating the ANC did NOT increase cabin noise. In fact, with the music complete off, I believe I noticed a reduction in ambient/inaudible sound pressure (...? not sure how to explain). It's almost like the ANC trying to eliminate the road noise was actually creating unnecessary noise that was more obnoxious than the road noise itself.

I wouldn't likely do this again on my next vehicle. It was a pain and time consuming. More time than I originally figured. But for now I will happily drive my quieted ride and the family and I can enjoy road trips without the music blasting to cover over the endless drone of road noise.
 
#29 ·
As most who have added amplifiers and/or subs have attested to, you get a hum out of the sub with the doors closed. This is because of the ANC. Not wanting to do anything too permanent or intrusive I tracked down the ANC control unit and unplugged it. Ta-da! At least on the EXL non-RES this unit is quite easy to get to. Just pop off the passenger side dash trim.
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Overall, I am please with the outcome. It is not as drastic as I had hoped, but it does make a difference. There is an obvious reduction in low frequency road noise and mid frequency harmonic hum when at interstate speeds. I can now hear my kids better from the 2nd row. The sound of the rain is not inaudible on the roof and can really only be heard hitting the windshield.

Running a simple decibel meter app on the same stretch of road at the same speed before and after there is a 5-6 dB drop. When monitoring the frequencies (again, an app so probably only good for comparative purposes, not accurate values) the low frequency noise at the driver's position was reduced 30-40% and mid frequencies about the same. Higher frequencies stayed about the same which I attribute a lot to wind noise, which I did nothing to address.

The subwoofer sounds good. A lot of punch without requiring a lot of power. The new door speakers sound clearer and voices are more audible in the 2nd row with the addition of the built in tweeter. Eliminating the ANC did NOT increase cabin noise. In fact, with the music complete off, I believe I noticed a reduction in ambient/inaudible sound pressure (...? not sure how to explain). It's almost like the ANC trying to eliminate the road noise was actually creating unnecessary noise that was more obnoxious than the road noise itself.

I wouldn't likely do this again on my next vehicle. It was a pain and time consuming. More time than I originally figured. But for now I will happily drive my quieted ride and the family and I can enjoy road trips without the music blasting to cover over the endless drone of road noise.
I just completed an audio upgrade and disconnected the ANC mic in the rear but now have a humming sound. Did disconnecting it up front turn the ANC off? Also how did you take the dash apart? Is there a way to unplug it from removing the glovebox...or does the dash need to come out? This humming sound is driving me crazy!
Thanks!
 
#12 ·
Thanks!

Man, what a great job. Thank you for the pics, description, and how-to-do-it, cmadki4.

I'm not knowledgeable on any of this by any means, but as far as I can tell by reading on the web, a 5-to-6db reduction is like cutting the overall noise level by around 50%. You definitely did what a lot of us wish we could do! :cool:

Just wondering...did the ANC actually help diminish road noise at all? Sure would have been interesting to unplug it and sample the noise data before you did that great install. My money is that your install, by itself, would silence a lot of noise in an Ody without ANC (like ours).

The 2012 Civic we just acquired is many times quieter than either of our Gen 2 Odysseys (2002 EX & 2003 EX). Makes me wonder why Honda skimped on sound deadening in the Odyssey.

OF
I didn't take any before and after measurements of frequency or decibels when disabling the ANC. Probably should have. I actually think it seems quieter. I understand the theory of the noise cancelation, but seems like in a highly uncontrolled environment like a mini van on the road it would be hard to do effectively. So, I think with ANC enabled you end up with road/wind noise + speaker noise/pressure. Disabling the ANC just took it down to the road/wind noise, which my ear perceived as more "pleasant".

Thanks for posting this, sound deadening and upgrading all speakers will now be my next project.
My pleasure. Best of luck. It's not easy, but not due to skill level. Just patience required (which I often have little to spare, lol).

I also lined the back side of the front liners in the wheel wells. I used sound deadening materials with an adhesive backing.
Smart.

Good to know. I just went to the SDS website to get an idea of what I'm going to spend. It looks like this is going an expensive project. But with a 5 to 6 dB Noise Reduction, it's totally worth it. Can you post your product list and quantity? I didn't see a listing for the 4th Gen Odyssey.
Based on SDS site it is expensive. His approach is very thorough and professional though. I'm also told the velcro he sources has a better adhesive for 160*F + temps. I just went with what I found on Amazon.

Here is what I used:
MLV: http://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Vinyl-...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 + http://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Vinyl-...S?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=detailpage

CCF (4 rolls): Amazon.com: Noico Liner 37.5 Sqft Heat & Cool Automotive Insulation Pad, Foam Self-adhesive Sound Deadening and Dampening Mat for Cars & Trucks (1/6'' or 157 Mil Sound Deadener): Automotive

CLD (2 packages): Amazon.com: Stinger RKX36B Roadkill Expert Series Sound Damping Material Bulk Pack: Car Electronics

Velcro (way more than I needed): http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Indust...1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=detailpage

Roller: http://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-...M?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=detailpage

Amp: Amazon.com: SOUND STORM SMCM200 Mini 200-Watt Monoblock, Class A/B 2 to 8 Ohm Stable Monoblock Amplifier: Car Electronics

Subwoofer: Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate P1S2-8 Punch P1 SVC 2-Ohm 8-Inch 200 Watt RMS 400 Watt Peak Subwoofer: Car Electronics

USB Ports: http://www.amazon.com/BANDC-PJH-RS-...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Great writeup, but I will differ on the sound system, the quality is piss poor. We have had Volvos, Audis, SAABs, and a Tesla.

Honda and Tesla take bottom place, our best ever was the Dynaudio in the Volvo S60R. I think this is why freddie32001 3 posts above is suffering from audio upgraditis, as they would say on avsforum.

Don't get me wrong, we love our Odyssey, the 2017 will be our 3rd one.
Yeah, it's a pretty weak audio system. Served me well enough. The bulk of what I listen to is NPR and audio books, so it was okay for may purposes. Having changed out the speakers and added the CLD in the doors it has improved and makes for better listening experience for sure.
 
#7 ·
Man, what a great job. Thank you for the pics, description, and how-to-do-it, cmadki4.

I'm not knowledgeable on any of this by any means, but as far as I can tell by reading on the web, a 5-to-6db reduction is like cutting the overall noise level by around 50%. You definitely did what a lot of us wish we could do! :cool:

Just wondering...did the ANC actually help diminish road noise at all? Sure would have been interesting to unplug it and sample the noise data before you did that great install. My money is that your install, by itself, would silence a lot of noise in an Ody without ANC (like ours).

The 2012 Civic we just acquired is many times quieter than either of our Gen 2 Odysseys (2002 EX & 2003 EX). Makes me wonder why Honda skimped on sound deadening in the Odyssey.

OF
 
#15 ·
I also lined the back side of the front liners in the wheel wells. I used sound deadening materials with an adhesive backing.
John, details, please! What brand, where to get them...you know, helpful information! :D

OF
 
#11 · (Edited)
Great writeup, but I will differ on the sound system, the quality is piss poor. We have had Volvos, Audis, SAABs, and a Tesla.

Honda and Tesla take bottom place, our best ever was the Dynaudio in the Volvo S60R. I think this is why freddie32001 3 posts above is suffering from audio upgraditis, as they would say on avsforum.

Don't get me wrong, we love our Odyssey, the 2017 will be our 3rd one.
 
#14 · (Edited)
In term of road noise, it's like comparing "bad" to "really bad". :eek:

Our 2012 Civic EX sedan is orders of magnitude quieter on the road. :nice:

Must...find...time...to...do...some...sound... deadening.

OF
 
#17 · (Edited)
UPDATE/WARNING: Please, be advised! I am currently having issues with the adhesive of the Noico Liner. It has failed catastrophically, causing the adhesive to ooze and drip like tree sap. The folks at STP Atlantic have already issued me a refund and are investigating further into what the root cause may be. Not a slight against the STP/Noico people, as they have been very responsive so far, but I can't currently recommend the Noico Liner.
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#25 ·
UPDATE/WARNING: Please, be advised! I am currently having issues with the adhesive of the Noico Liner. It has failed catastrophically, causing the adhesive to ooze and drip like tree sap. The folks at STP Atlantic have already issued me a refund and are investigating further into what the root cause may be. Not a slight against the STP/Noico people, as they have been very responsive so far, but I can't currently recommend the Noico Liner.
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This sucks. Sorry to hear about this. Hope that the manufacturer also helps you out with the cleanup process, as I know that that is very tedious. Excellent write up, by the way. I'm planning on doing this with my '14 TE when the weather gets cooler (too hot here in FL to do something like this). I will be using a product called FatMat (https://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Self-Adhesive-Sound-Deadener-Install/dp/B003TP4R16), which is comparable to DynaMat, but a little cheaper.

Not sure if I will go to the extent that you did, but if I could find the time, maybe I would. Covering the rear wheel wells, front doors and sliding door will definitely help a lot. I would probably do that initially, then assess on whether continuing on with other panels is worth it.

Thanks for inspiring me to do this.

Van
 
#19 ·
Is that a fosgate sub? What are your thoughts on it? I took the same approach and replaced the sub and amped it with a Sony gs sub and jbl ms-a5001. The amp is awesome (signal sensing and customizable x-overs)and the sub performs probably as well as anything is going to. Obviously the box is a limitation. I'm still interested in finding a sub that is more suited to the tiny box. I rough measured it at .33 cu ft empty. I didn't have time to find and disable the and before my wife drove it and it nearly self destructed the sub with what I imagine was a heavily clipped signal. Now it smells like toasted voice coil but it still works fine. I'll likely replace it soon just to ease my paranoia of frying the amp if the sub goes.
 
#21 ·
Nice job! I did something similar on our 99 Ody and was amazed at how much a few rolls of Dynamat helped to reduce wind and road noise. Really the Ody has only some very thin sound proofing on the floor and firewall. It looks like the new one is about the same. My guess is that this is to try and keep the weight of the car in check. You may have inspired me to do something with our new one too.
 
#23 ·
Thanks. John U already combined and posted the details in another thread for our enjoyment, to include pictures, a while back. :cool: He's definitely an Ody driver.

Quality CCF will do for the fender liner. Reputable high mass liner (like DynaMat or similar, per his post) will do for the fender well. I'll be contacting the proprietor of SDS for a kit, plus these as add-ons, when the snow goes away.

Cheers, and happy new year. :cheers:

OF
 
#30 ·
Hi cmadki4,

I also want to do sound deadening for my 2015 odyssey. But I don't know how to remove all the internal panel/trim off the vehicle. I don't know where each pin located on the panel. I worried that if I pull the panel very hard without knowing the location of pin, I will destroy the pin or even the panel. Can you show me how to remove all internal panel? especially rear panel, floor rather than the door (I can find video on youtube about the door panel) Do you have any pictures or any video to show how to remove the internal panel off?

It's very important to me .

thanks.
 
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