New Tires on '15 EX-L @ 30,000
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Thread: New Tires on '15 EX-L @ 30,000

  1. #1
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    New Tires on '15 EX-L @ 30,000

    Okay, the original Continentals were showing wear but still okay, although I had flats in all of them. Can't blame the tires for that, just saying they had plugs and 'boots' in them. So, I go down to get the paper this morning and on the way up notice the van has a flat on the R rear. I got my 12V pump to see if it would hold pressure long enough to get to the tire shop, and it did, so after breakfast we took it over. Then we ran a couple of errands and headed home, when I got the call, but it wasn't ready - they couldn't fix it because the sidewall was punctured. Told him I'd call right back, got home and went to Tire Rack, then called him back. He had four Michelin LTX on hand for $10 each more than TR, so I gave him the green light. I've been getting tired of the Continentals lately getting hard and noisy, plus we have a couple of road trips coming up in June. And, I've been wanting Michelins on it for some time. So, dropped almost a grand on it with mounting, balancing, alignment, tax and all. I actually haven't driven it yet and probably won't for awhile but I'll follow up with how I like them - I'm expecting a major improvement like I've always had with Michelins before, and these are premium tires.
    https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...toModClar=EX-L
    2015 Honda Odyssey EX-L

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  3. #2
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    Kind of off topic but I found this article today:Earl Stewart On Cars: Why New Car Tires Wear Out So Fast

    Why New Car Tires Wear Out So Fast

    The tires that came with your last new car were not designed by Michelin, Goodyear, Bridgestone or any other tire manufacturer. They were designed by the manufacturer of your car. If your new car came with a set of Michelins, Michelin made the tire but they made it to the specifications set by your car manufacturer. These tires are referred to as OEM (original equipment manufacturer).

    Furthermore, your manufacturer does not warranty the tires on your new car even though he tells you that you have a “bumper to bumper” warranty. The last time I checked, my tires were between my front and rear bumpers. Even though GM designed the tires on your Chevrolet, they have no responsibility if they are defective. The tire manufacturer bears that responsibility.

    The OEM tires that came with your car can’t be replaced (which is a good thing) after they’ve worn out. And they will wear out much sooner than they should. This is because virtually all auto manufacturers specify very soft rubber which means they wear out too fast. Why would the manufacturer do that? They want that new car to have the smoothest ride possible, even at your expense of having to buy a new set of tires at half the mileage you should have to. When you test drive that brand new car and it rides very, very smoothly you’re more likely to buy it. You’ll find out how fast the tires wear out much later, and when you do you’ll blame it on the tire maker.

    By the way, another way the car makers delude you into thinking your ride is very smooth is by recommending low tire inflation. The number you see on your door jamb or in your car’s owner’s manual is the car manufacturer’s recommended air pressure. The number on your tire is the tire maker’s recommendation. The number on the door jamb is the minimum and the number on the tire is the maximum. There’s typically a 10 pound difference. I recommend you try the maximum and, if the ride’s too rough, split the difference. You’ll not only get longer tire wear but better gas mileage.

    I can’t prove it, but I suspect another reason auto manufacturers design their own tires is to cut costs. By cutting a few corners in the design and specifications, they can increase their profit and/or cut the overall car price. If there purpose was to design a better tire, why wouldn’t they make these OEM tires available for the car owner to buy after the first set wears out? Many car owners “think” they’re replacing their Firestones or Michelins that were on their new car with the same tire, but they’re not. The tire might be the same size and look the same, but it’s a different model number.

    One thing you should look for on your first set of replacement tires is the “tread wear index” which is molded into the side of your tires. This number will be 200 to 800. Your OEM tires will have a lower number because their made of softer rubber. If the tires that came on your car had a 200 tread wear index and you replaced them with 400, you should get twice the mileage on your second set of tires. The car might not ride as smoothly, but most people can’t even notice. And to my way of thinking, cutting you tires cost in half is pretty good compensation for a slightly rougher ride.

    When replacing your tires, don’t get enamored by a sexy brand name. Brands aren’t always built on quality but also on advertising. Also, a famous brand tire makes all different kinds of tires to many different designs and specifications. Just because it’s a “Michelin” doesn’t necessarily man it’s a good tire. If Michelin made that tire for an auto manufacturer who designed the tire with only two things in mind…low cost and soft ride, you didn’t get a very good tire. My recommendation is to check Consumer Reports for the best tire replacements. You’ll find tire brands recommended that you may never have heard about. The Japanese and Chinese make some very good tires but they have funny sounding names and you don’t see them advertised heavily on TV.
    2017 Honda Odyssey TE - OEM Footwell LED Mod - LED Rear Reflectors -
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    2014 Honda Civic EX-L
    2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L (USDM AF!) VCMuzller - Catless Down Pipes - Test Pipe - Custom SRI/CAI - TB Coolant Bypass - Thermal Gaskets - Coilovers - Tuned

  4. #3
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    I don't think its off topic at all. Correct info on all points, and all owners who keep the car more than two years are going to need to know this.

    Anyway, I took it out for a ten-mile run at 75MPH this morning and its all good. Now looking forward to some longer trips. The tires seemed to 'break-in' and were quieter at the end of the ride than at the beginning. I haven't seen this before but these are very different from any tires I've ever had. Its possible they will 'come-in' even more with more miles, but we'll see.
    At least the installation, balancing and alignment were good which was the primary reason for the test drive before I turned my wife loose in it.
    And yes, I did correct the cold pressure which was 2 psi high all around.
    2015 Honda Odyssey EX-L

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  6. #4
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    Had to update; the tires are great. Once I got the pressure right (we got the tires during a strange cool snap then it started getting wamer each day so I was letting air out to get the correct morning cold pressure) and got 100 miles on the tires on the hot highway, they settled down and got soft and quiet. I mean, its like a new car. My wife even told me today that she fell in love all over again with the van. The handling is so much better she feels more secure driving it. These tires are scary good. Read up on them via the link I posted if you haven't already - they are not your granddaddy's Michelins. Actually I'm probably old enough to be your Granddaddy and they are my Michelins - and I'm glad of it. I'll probably put them on my Sportage SX in a few years although the Hankooks on it are pretty good.
    2015 Honda Odyssey EX-L

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    This has a bit of hyperbole in it:
    Quote Originally Posted by MrRangerZr1 View Post
    By the way, another way the car makers delude you into thinking your ride is very smooth is by recommending low tire inflation. The number you see on your door jamb or in your car’s owner’s manual is the car manufacturer’s recommended air pressure. The number on your tire is the tire maker’s recommendation. The number on the door jamb is the minimum and the number on the tire is the maximum. There’s typically a 10 pound difference. I recommend you try the maximum and, if the ride’s too rough, split the difference. You’ll not only get longer tire wear but better gas mileage.
    A maximum is just that: a maximum. Not a recommendation. Some have a "low" maximum which might be useful to run at but others have a maximum which is way more than you'll ever need on a van.

    The part about the car manufacturer's recommended air pressure is all too true, unfortunately. I checked the charts last year and the Odyssey's recommended pressure is the absolute minimum allowed to safely carry the van's rated weight. A few extra PSI should do wonders for handling and tire life.

  8. #6
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    And we're talking cold pressure too. When you go to the max cold inflation pressure, say 45psi, you will hit 55psi out on the hot road in summer. I can tell you from personal experience that this will destroy your passenger car/light truck tires. Years ago I had a '96 Cherokee and the guy at the local oil change joint was inflating it's tires to the max pressure. I was not checking behind him and took some long highway trips in summer like that. I started to have problems in the suspension and brakes along with 'freeway hop' and the dreaded 4X4 'death wobble'. The tire shop couldn't find anything wrong but they never checked the pressures. I tried different shocks, steering stabilizer, balancing, alignments, brake rotors, etc. to little effect. I eventually discovered the over-inflation but didn't connect it to the problems.
    I decided to sell it but the tires were shot so went and got a new set; wow. Instant transformation - like driving on a cloud. The over-inflation + hot interstate had caused belt separation. The tires were BFG Radial T/A which is a good thing because a lessor tire might have come apart on the road under that kind of torture.
    So from then on, I do check the pressures after anybody touches the vehicle for any reason. They all have 'air' and they all think too much is good. I would never run higher than the recommendation on purpose because when I've tried it the ride gets harsh and it increases road noise - not worth it in my experience.
    2015 Honda Odyssey EX-L

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