Check the number 23 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.

Check the number 2-7 (30 A) fuse in the secondary under-hood fuse box.

See the fuse locations section in the owner's manual for details.

Let us know what you find.

 

I had the same problem. I asked the dealer if I could reset things myself, they said no, and that it was a complex procedure. I had to go to the dealer to have them do the reset.
Seems silly that a flat battery requires a dealer visit to fix.

 

I would keep the battery disconnected longer than the said 10 minutes. Keep it disconnected for an hour or better yet overnight and see if you can get away with not needing to go to the stealer.

 

Thanks for the responses. I double checked the fuses, which were intact, and just disconnected the negative terminal for the night. Will advise tomorrow.

 

After leaving the battery disconnected overnight, same VSA/ABS faults exist. Off to dealer. Makes me wonder about changing a battery without a dealer visit, etc. Will post outcome and thanks again.

 

Ugh. Please post back what they do to resolve it.

 

Back from the dealer. Diagnosis: "WENT INTO THE PCM AND CLEARED CODES FROM E DIFFERENT SYSTEMS AND NONE RETURNED. EVERYTHING WORKS GREAT." Labor cost was $47. The dealer threw in a winter tire exchange and TPMS read/program for $15. Spoke with the technician, who told me that these faults, in theory, should not happen with a battery discharge, but that they sometimes do. Also mentioned that, in order to clear the system, he recommended disconnecting both the positive and negative battery cables, waiting 30 minutes, then carefully clamping both the positive and negative cables together for an additional 30+ minutes, in order to discharge capacitors that make fault codes persistent.

 

then carefully clamping both the positive and negative cables together for an additional 30+ minutes, in order to discharge capacitors that make fault codes persistent.

Interesting. I remember doing that in the electronics lab with small capacitors for fun, but I'm not sure if I would do that to my car

 

Thanks for the update. Wow. They charged you for the procedure? Amazing. I know the economy is bad but this bad? This should have been covered under the bumper to bumper warranty. You might want to call Honda corp and complain.

$15 for winter TPMS re-program is a good deal so not sure if you want to complain for the $47 they charged you.

 

Does anyone know how to reset the VSA and ABS lights after dead battery? The first time this happened to me, I saw this post and went to the dealer because it was still under warranty. The dealer reset the lights and said they updated the firmware. They re-assured me that if my battery died again, then the VSA and ABS lights would not come on again. Well, they lied. My battery died again recently and when I jumped started the battery, the VSA and ABS lights are back on and the sliding doors have issues. I think the right sliding door will intermittently have a constant beeping noise. The only way to get rid of the beeping noise is to turn off the sliding doors switch on the driver side dash.

I want to avoid taking it back to dealer because it's not only inconvenient, but also because my Odyssey has passed the 36 month warranty. Please help!!!

 

Exactly the same happened to my 2011 Odyssey Touring last week. I unplugged the VSA fuse for 30 seconds while engine off and it cleared. No non-sense complicated procedure.

PS. I have 12 brothers/sisters. After disappointed with US made cars. I convinced all my family members and friends to buy Honda starting in the early '90s. We owned lots of Odyssey, CRV, Civic, Pilot, MDX. We all very satisfied until the last 5 years. I believe Honda lost it's quality. Our next purchase will be either US or Europe made. But, not sure yet.

 

So pulling the VSA fuse... Will it also clear the ABS and allow the rear doors to work with key in ignition? Let me know. I have the ODY at the dealership will also ask them as well. But want to know in case my battery dies again in the future.

 

Same thing currently wrong with my 2012 TE. Wife left the van on accessory while watching a dvd and killed the battery. Would like to know the best way to reset the VSA and ABS warning symbols.

 

Hi,
it will come out you may have to use needle nose pliers or a screw driver. We pulled that fuse but it did nothing. Still not fixed. It is so annoying and don't want to go to the stealer.

 

I have replaced the battery in my 2014 EXL twice without any issue that required a reset procedure. Each time the battery was removed for several hours before being replaced.

 

2012 Touring Elite. Went for skiing in the mountains and left the lights on which caused the battery to discharge. Jump started the car and now VSA and ABS lights are always on. Sliding doors have stopped working too. I tried pulling out the fuse but it did not helped. Is taking to dealer and get it reset the only option?

My car's battery has been discharged before and I have jump-started them, but these lights never came ON earlier. Why would they come ON this time?

 

Try to reset the system by disconnecting the negative terminal for 10 minutes. Be sure you have the radio codes handy. Have you tried to press the door buttons on the driver console to open the sliding doors? Let me know.

 

@otto888man : Thanks for the tip. It seems the doors started working after disconnecting the negative terminal. But the VSA and ABS lights were still on. I took it to Honda dealership today morning and grudgingly agreed for 130 bucks diagnosis fees. After half an hour the mechanic came back and reported that battery has gone bad and therefore those lights came ON. They replaced the battery free of cost and also waived the diagnosis charge (I guess battery has a warranty of 5 years and my car was just around 3 year old and 30 K miles).

 

Thanks for posting back the fix! I'm glad that you have resolved the problem.

 

I have 2012 Odyssey EXL with same situation - light on drained the battery - now, I have VSA and ABS light on and also sliding door is not open/close while engine is on. I have tried all recommended solutions:
a. disconnect both battery cable
b. disconnect only negative cable
c. check the fuses - VSA - ABS - Sliding Door
d. remove the fuses and start up the car
But none has reset the lights. I guess I will go ahead and replace the battery and cross my finger it will solve the issue rather than paying $130 diagnostic fee to Honda dealer.

 

Has the battery been replaced before?

 

I tried the battery cable reset procedure. I watched the video that's posted here on the board but It did not work for me. VSA and ABS indicators are still on and my power sliding doors only work while the engine is off. Can someone please help without having to go to the dealer?

 

Paper Clip to Solve it

Hi There

Kindly refer to post
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/9-problems-concerns/40654-tcs-abs-lights-reset-2.html

This is mainly overcome by DTC reset procedure that starts by shorting pin 4 and 9 on OBDII connector under the dashboard.

My experience is summarized as follows:


Shorting 4 and 9 on OBDII connector (aka Data Link, or SCS) got me into the DTC troubleshooting mode.

My 2012 Touring Displayed "SCS service TPMS DTC32 DTC NO"... I tried many options with the brakes with no success. Mind me for not recalling the exact sequence.

However I tried other options while pressing the "select" button on the steering wheel; and viola VSA and ABS codes were cleared.. the power doors did not work initially. Took key off; restarted the car; and everything was fine.


Thanks for the hint; my wife suffered with the kids for nearly three months due to a dead battery...

 

I had the same problems with my 2013 Ody. The battery went dead. I replaced it but the VSA and ABS lights stayed on plus the sliding doors would not work with the van running.
I checked all of the fuses related to VSA, ABS, ECM, no issues, no help, no changes.
I did the battery disconnect, and the battery cable reset multiple times, no change.
Went to O'Riellys to use their ODB II tool. No Codes present. No change.
Called dealer, they said 79.99 to delete error codes that pop up after battery issues, said its a common problem.

Then..... Did the procedure described above.
Jumper pins 4 to 9 on ODB connection port with paperclip.
Held brakes as told, then turn ignition to pos II
Released brake, then pressed brake again, released brake.
Your Done
Remove jumper, start car, No More ABS VSA lights..... boom....

 

This didn't work. You didn't post complete instructions. This post should be deleted. It's giving bad information along with others.

 

I had the same problem as everyone else - ABS and VSA lights (curvy road symbol) and the rear doors had problems opening. I followed this sequence from another thread:

"As posted earlier in this thread but not the easiest to understand for newbies such as myself....whats a SCS circuit!? Well through some research in other threads unrelated to my issue, the SCS circuit is the plug found under the dashboard of the drivers side where the dealer or mechanic plugs in to communicate to the car's computer. There are actual small numbers in the corners showing you that 1 starts in the lower right hand corner getting bigger moving left up to 8..then the upper row starts from 9 to 16. I used a small paper clip bending it to reach the 4th and 9th hole where they are bridged together.....

To reset
1. With the ignition switchOFF
2. Short the SCS circuit to body ground #4 and #9 pin using a paperclip
3. Press the brake pedal.
4. Turn the ignition switchON (II) while keeping the brake pedal pressed.
5. After the ABS indicator goes off, release the brake.
6. After the ABS indicator goes on, press the brake pedalagain.
7. After the ABS indicator goes off, release the brake again.
8. After a few seconds, the ABS indicator blinks twice and the DTC is cleared. If the ABS indicator stays on after it blinks twice, check the DTC, because a problem was detected during the initial diagnosis before shifting to DTC clearing mode.
9. Turn the ignition switchOFF.
10. Disconnect the paperclip from the DLC."

Worked perfectly. Took a few tries - the first two times the ABS light didn't change like it said it would, so I after waiting 30 sec-1 min I turned the car off and tried again. I don't have a Touring, just an EX. All it said on the MFD screen (the LCD on in front of the driver) was NO and continuous beep while I was going it. A bit nerve-racking but it worked fine.

 

I had the same problem as everyone else - ABS and VSA lights (curvy road symbol) and the rear doors had problems opening. I followed this sequence from another thread:

"As posted earlier in this thread but not the easiest to understand for newbies such as myself....whats a SCS circuit!? Well through some research in other threads unrelated to my issue, the SCS circuit is the plug found under the dashboard of the drivers side where the dealer or mechanic plugs in to communicate to the car's computer. There are actual small numbers in the corners showing you that 1 starts in the lower right hand corner getting bigger moving left up to 8..then the upper row starts from 9 to 16. I used a small paper clip bending it to reach the 4th and 9th hole where they are bridged together.....

To reset
1. With the ignition switchOFF
2. Short the SCS circuit to body ground #4 and #9 pin using a paperclip
3. Press the brake pedal.
4. Turn the ignition switchON (II) while keeping the brake pedal pressed.
5. After the ABS indicator goes off, release the brake.
6. After the ABS indicator goes on, press the brake pedalagain.
7. After the ABS indicator goes off, release the brake again.
8. After a few seconds, the ABS indicator blinks twice and the DTC is cleared. If the ABS indicator stays on after it blinks twice, check the DTC, because a problem was detected during the initial diagnosis before shifting to DTC clearing mode.
9. Turn the ignition switchOFF.
10. Disconnect the paperclip from the DLC."

Worked perfectly. Took a few tries - the first two times the ABS light didn't change like it said it would, so I after waiting 30 sec-1 min I turned the car off and tried again. I don't have a Touring, just an EX. All it said on the MFD screen (the LCD on in front of the driver) was NO and continuous beep while I was going it. A bit nerve-racking but it worked fine.

Thanks for the information. Your instructions were proper. Other people that post give incorrect information.

 

THIS WORKED; Same issue with dead battery and VSA/ABS lights and sliding door issues. Tried many different fixes and finally the above post from iaflyer worked. Also had to try it 3 or 4 times but had success. Only change i made was not grounding the SCS circuit or paperclip. Just jumpered from pin #4 to #9. Many thanks to those who posted before me.

 

Thanks for posting the fix!

 

Mine is not exactly the fully dead battery problem.
My 2013 Ody(had less than 10K miles on it) started giving troubles to start. No other battery powered functionality got interrupted so far. I am using my powerbank to crank it up to use it. Here is my list of questions.
1) What make and model battery to buy?: Checked with the local dealer, charging me $160+ labor for normal warranty Honda battery and $225 for lifetime warranty(as long as I own the car). Contacted Costco, they are not carrying the Ody batteries (now the costco is carrying only Interstate batteries). So, searched online its MT7-34R of interstate model. What battery should I go for (I am planning to replace it by myself).
2) Why does my OEM battery died so early. Just few months after the original Honda warranty on battery(36 months) exceeded? I guess its too early for an OEM to die on 10K miles run/3 years usage.
3) While I am replacing my battery, I plan on connecting it with the external powerbank so that the codes doesnt get reset. Is it advisable ?
Please advice good store to buy good brand and cost effective battery to replace it by myself.
Thanks

 

hi...

thanks for posting such detailed instructions...and enhancing with newbie information....

I am exactly like in your situation ....after jump start...vsa/abs lights on and power doors not working... (and a newbie as well)... have a quick question about your Instruction- 2. Short the SCS circuit to body ground #4 and #9 pin using a paperclip

you mentioned that you I used a small paper clip bending it to reach the 4th and 9th hole where they are bridged together

does that mean you used ONE paper clip and bended it such that one end was in pin#4 and the other end in pin#9?

Thanks for your help and time.

 

Hi All,

I have the same issues described. Further, once or twice a year the electrical system "resets" and we loose our radio station programming and seat memory positions. I say "resets" because the radio/seats work but, the presets are back to factory settings for those two particular systems.

I now leave my battery on a trickler charger overnight before long trips and on the occasional weekend. No more issues, I will be replacing my battery soon. Only 3 yrs old...

Cheers