Battery Replacement Horn Honking
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Thread: Battery Replacement Horn Honking

  1. #1
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    Battery Replacement Horn Honking

    I just had to replace my battery because of those infernal rear reading lights being left on by my kids.

    As soon as I hooked up the Negative terminal (last of course) the horn sounded continuously (boy is that loud). There is nothing in the manual about this, and I searched the forum about this after disconnecting it. I thought I had the wrong battery or something.

    Turns out that I had to hook it up, horn blaring and all, then go inside and turn the key and shut off the A/C and everything that was commanded on by my wife. Ahhh, silence.

    I am thinking about a Priority Start system, because my wife was peeved that she could not take the kids to school in the A.M. (the little angels).

    Oh well, live and learn thought this might help someone with the blaring Horn sound when you replace the Battery.

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  3. #2
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    Just turning the key on is all you needed to do to make the alarm turn off.

    I, too, ran into this when my child left the interior lights on and I had to recharge the battery.

  4. #3
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    Originally posted by adam1991
    Just turning the key on is all you needed to do to make the alarm turn off.
    Thanks for that, I wanted to help someone else who might run into this problem.

  5. #4
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    Hi adam1991, did charging the battery work? Does it hold the charge afterward? I too have the same problem with the reading lights left on. Just bought a charger, want to try it instead of replacing the battery. Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by Ody2000; 09-15-2003 at 01:41 AM.

  6. #5
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    Yeah, it worked fine. That incident happened over a year and a half ago, and no problems since.

  7. #6
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    Me too. Happened when the van was a week old. Charged her up, but the green eye didn't come back for another week. A year later, battery is still good!

    I think most auto batteries can withstand 2 or 3 deep discharges.
    2012 EX (hers) 03 LX (reserve force)
    2013 Chevy Cruze Eco (stick!) commuting average 40mpg

    Gone:Caddy CTS (neutered, aka auto trans), Jetta 1.8T (stick!),95 & 02 Saturn SL (stick!)

  8. #7
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    Originally posted by manualman I think most auto batteries can withstand 2 or 3 deep discharges. [/B]
    My Ody is a year and a half old and I've drained the battery 5 times (finally, this last time getting a PriorityStart). I do understand that the battery is permanently damaged with each discharge, however the battery still appears to work fine. I'll report more as winter approaches and we'll see if cold preformance has been affected.

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    I love this BB the people are so helpful and nice

    donlibes, I appreciate your comments and your great mod posts.

    Thanks to all, and I hope my post about the horn honking during battery replacement is helpful to ne1 who experiences it and thinks they did something wrong like I did.

  10. #9
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    Thanks for all the replies. Not in my case, I have to replace the battery because when charging it after about 20 min. the charger give a reading of faulty battery (internally short). Paid $60.00+ for a new one at Advance auto parts with double cranking power of the original one.

  11. #10
    Hey
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    Originally posted by Ody2000
    Paid $60.00+ for a new one at Advance auto parts with double cranking power of the original one.
    Could there be any adverse effects causing warranty issues when replacing a battery with one with double the cranking power?

  12. #11
    Wayne Lim
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    Originally posted by Hey
    Could there be any adverse effects causing warranty issues when replacing a battery with one with double the cranking power?
    Batteries are rated in "cold cranking amps", which is just a measure of how much power they can put out for 30 seconds with the battery at a certain temperature and still maintain an output voltage over a certain threshold. It really deals with the load capacity of the battery and it won't push more amperage through your car than it can handle.

    I'm not sure that CCAs are that important any more, since every modern car uses fuel injection and will start pretty quickly, so the ability to discharge large amounts of current for a long (30 second) time aren't going to be as important as a larger, low-discharge capacity, which is specified in amp-hours, that will help keep all the electric and electronic devices running when the engine speed is insufficient to provide all the power that is needed.

    Different types of batteries have different load outputs. The traditional plated lead-acid batteries perform much worse than spiral wound, starved-electrolytic systems, which have huge discharge rates and voltage profiles that are much more similar to nicad batteries. As an example, I once jump started a Honda using an 8 amp-hr battery, the same one that I carry on my bicycle to provide lighting when I ride at night, and which weighs just more than seven pounds. From the looks of it, the Optima batteries might use this kind of cell.

    My opinion is that you don't get the largest battery that you can, because it's a lot of eight to have hanging off the front of the car. Just hold one and try to swing it around from side to side and imagine how much of the car's available traction just be used if you have to maneuver quickly.

    Wayne

  13. #12
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    Alarm after replacing battery

    Guys, thanks for all the info on this thread. I just bought an 03 EX-L last week. Saturday night the kids left the lights on. Sunday morning my battery was dead and a boost didn't work so we took the battery out and hooked it up to a recharger. It recharged in a few hours but when I went to put it back in the horn blared and lights flashed when the connections were made. No doubt very disturbing to my neighbours at 8 pm. I tried putting the key in ignition, then turning to I, then II, then turning the engine on. Nothing stopped the alarm. I came inside defeated and searched this site, found this thread. This morning I successfully reinstalled the battery. The solution for me was not to turn on the engine but to 1. open the hood then lock all the doors manually; 2. reconnect the battery, resulting in the alarm; and 3. press the "unlock" button on the fob. Instant silence. Battery successfully recharged and reinstalled.

    Not only did the information on this thread save me countless lost hours and a fortune in towing and mechanics, but it made me feel better that others had been through the exact same problem. I didn't feel like as much of an idiot as I had earlier in the day. I've also learned I have to be more careful with a vehicle that uses so much electricity - don't open the electric doors with the engine off and make wide assortment of lights are turned off at night.

  14. #13
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    Comment: In the past I read - somewhere - that each time the battery is totally discharged, it takes away about 1/2 of the remaining life. That may or not have been true then and I know not the validity with todays batteries but it probably doesn't do them any good. With today's vehicles starting so quickly, you don't get much (if any) warning with a weak battery. My recent clues have been the voltmeter reading around 11 to12 volts. Not much help with an Ody. If the lights on the instrument panel start to get weird-continously, you are probably past the point of a restart, so get to a destination ASAP. I seem to get decent life from our car batteries, but am wondering if a new battery after 5 years might be a "warm and fuzzy" policy. Suppose one could turn on the headlights for 10-15 min. and then see if it will crank vigorously.

    Question: Wayne maybe you can address.
    With all the loss of info in the computer when changing batteries, is there a procedure to avoid the computer memory loss? Ie. hook up a second battery or a charger to the cables prior to disconnecting and reconnecting the new battery so there is power to the vehical during the battery change. Being careful or inslulating the Pos. side from accidental grounding of course.

    Don't think running the engine without a battery -while replacing- would be a good idea, Seems like that was/is a definate no-no for some vehicals.
    (Did find this bit with the "Search")

  15. #14
    Registered User Demonio71's Avatar
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    help!!!

    i tried all advised above, and horn still blares, constant blare.

    what else can i try?
    gOOOOOOOOoooooooooooLLLLLLLL!!!!!111

  16. #15
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    Use the fob or the key in the driver's door and unlock. I personally do not find that using the key in the ignition will stop the alarm. It seems that a continuously sounding horn would not be the alarm, but a bad or sticking horn relay. The alarm horn sound is honk,honk,honk.

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