Parasitic Battery Drain? - Page 5
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Thread: Parasitic Battery Drain?

  1. #61
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    To see if the relay is stuck closed he can simply remove it and re-insert it a couple of times and see/listen to see if the clutch "clicks" when it's removed and inserted with the key off.

    Automatic sliding doors that don't work properly often have a side effect of parasitic battery draw and that's why I asked. If the AC relay and the sliding doors are not it then you'll want to find what is drawing the current. There are lots of videos out there on finding parasitic amp draw. It's a bit of a methodical and meticulous, process but it can be done and at least isolated to a specific circuit that is causing it.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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  3. #62
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    Maybe a stupid question but does the click mean it is stuck? I assume the videos can be found on google or youtube?

    Thanks so much.

  4. #63
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Be sure and do this check with the key OFF and out of the vehicle. The AC clutch relay is located in the underhood fusebox. If, with the key off, you hear the AC clutch clicking when the relay is removed and/or inserted then the relay is bad. The relay is made by Omron and you may be able to get a replacement at a parts store. They can also be bought on eBay or Amazon in most cases.

    If this relay sticks closed and keeps the AC powered on then damage can be done to the AC clutch just due to being powered all the time, and the AC compressor itself due to extreme high pressures created when clutch is activated all the time.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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  6. #64
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    My husband says he checked the A/C clutch relay before we replaced the battery in November and it did not click but he says he will check it again. I tried to start the van tonight and it would not start -- not even 2 days since it was last driven. It is dark shortly after he gets home from work so he will have to wait until Saturday if the relay is fine and he has to do more investigation. I did look at a good video on Youtube which he will watch. He has multi meters but he is not sure if they will work so he may have to buy one. So if it is something else and he traces it to a particular fuse we would need to take it to the mechanic since we do not have any electrical wiring diagrams. It is strange that the mechanic (who specializes in Honda) checked the van and said the electrical is fine except the battery was weak. Wondering if we should find a different mechanic. It may take a few days but will keep you posted. Thank you.

  7. #65
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    You can get wiring diagrams at BBB Industries - TSB's & Wiring Diagrams
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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  8. #66
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    Thank you. I will pass the links on to my husband. We appreciate your willingness to help. We have only had the van for a year and a half and it has been in the shop more than any other car we have had and we always buy used (live debt free on limited income). It seems when we get one problem solved another pops up. We paid more for this van than we usually spend on used vehicles but our sons wanted us to have a more reliable car and they thought a Toyota or Honda would be best for us since they are known to be reliable. It is the nicest van we have had and we love it but....
    We put in a new timing belt and water pump soon after we bought it (summer 2015). The tensioner and serpentine belt went in May 2016 and we had to be towed. About 10 weeks later it went again - another tow. Six weeks after that it went again - another tow. That last repair was in July and so far that seems OK. About 9 or 10 weeks after that 3rd repair is when the battery drain started.

    You seem very knowledgeable about car repair. Is there a way to check if the TPMS is working correctly? When I had a razor blade in my back passenger side tire the TPMS light on the dash did not come on. Neither did it come on when the weather got cold here in PA. Last year it did once or twice. I understand it is normal when the weather gets cold for the light to come on temporarily. Since fall of 2015 we have not seen that light except when you first start the van when all of them come on for a second or two.

    I have no idea how long the razor blade was in the tire. I just know when I came out of the grocery store and I was driving to the exit at the light when I heard a weird thumping noise so I pulled over and saw the very flat tire. My husband came and pumped the tire up and I followed him to get it repaired (short slow ride) and I saw the tire going down slowly but it did not go flat again before getting to Walmart. It could not be repaired because it was not a puncture and the man there said it looked like it had been there awhile (very embedded). May be a silly question but if the TPMS is not working could that have anything to do with the battery drain problem?

    My husband is hoping to check the AC relay when he gets home but the weather is looking dark and gloomy. It is puzzling that it took almost 2 months for the battery to start draining. Or has been it been draining from new and now a cell is dead? If that is the case the battery will not fully charge and I understand it has to fully charge to do the multi-meter test.

    Thank you again,
    Michele (and Bob)

  9. #67
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    Ok. It is not the A/C relay. Bob went to have the alternator and battery checked at Advanced Auto and the alternator is good but the battery voltage is 12.31V, Measured 719 CCA and rated at 725 CCA so the battery is weak. So I guess now we have to get another battery before he can do the multi-meter test. Thanks again.

  10. #68
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    I would try and check for parasitic drain before putting in a new battery. You don't want to start draining a new battery until you've found the cause of the issue, if there is one.

    If there is a parasitic drain then that drain is damaging the battery over time. When the battery is new it can take the overnight drains and still be OK. However, after a couple months of frequent draining the battery starts to lose it's capacity and will get weaker and weaker until it drains enough overnight to not start the vehicle. I'd want to first find out for sure if there is a parasitic drain or not. We haven't really established that yet.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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  11. #69
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    Hello John,
    Bob found the fuse that seems to be the problem. It is in the primary under hood fuse box number fuse #15 - 40 A - Back up, ACC. The wiring diagram if we are reading correctly seems to lead to a driver's underdash fuse relay box fuses 5, 6, 7 and 9 which leads to Driver's accessory power pocket relay. He is going to check those fuses next. Is he on the right track?

  12. #70
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Yes, good work! If he's found a parasitic draw through that fuse then I would suspect any of fuses 5,6,7 and 9 on the drivers side. However, the wiring diagram shows that fuse #15 feeds fuse #7 in the underhood fuse box, too, so he'll want to check that one, as well.

    There is an easy method of checking for current draw through a fuse. You basically do what's called a voltage drop check across the fuse. If there is no current flowing through the fuse there will be 0 millivolts of voltage across the fuse. If there is current flow then there will be a small voltage drop across the fuse. The amount of voltage drop across a certain type and amperage of fuse will indicate how much current is flowing.

    Basically, you use the millivolt scale on the volt meter and just check the voltage across the fuse.



    Here are charts based on the type and amperage of fuse that will tell you how much current is flowing through a particular fuse:

    Fuse Charts Download
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  13. #71
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    Thanks John. Bob says when he removed the 40 amp fuse in the primary under hood box the reading went from .40 amps to .05 amps. He said pulling fuse #7 in the primary under hood box it dropped it one point to .39. With the 40 amp fuse (#15) back in he went to the under dash drivers side fuse box and found fuse #7 (7.5 amp) and found when he took that one out it dropped to .06 amps when pulled. Pulling fuses #5, 6, 9 in the under dash box drivers side made no difference.

    Thanks so much. Even if we have to bring it to the shop we have saved them some labor. Thanks again.

  14. #72
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    This sounds an awful lot like a problematic rear door latch in one of the power sliding doors, just as I suggested early on. The parasitic amp draw when the switches start to go bad is usually around 0.4 amps on the #7 drivers kickpanel fuse. Generally, the power sliding door(s) won't open or close automatically when this occurs but I suppose it's possible for them to still work if one is not where it's supposed to be. Are you sure you haven't had any problems with either of the power sliding doors?

    If you're going to have it repaired then replacing the rear door latch in the problematic door will fix it. If you're going to DIY it then I usually suggest removing it and checking all the switches and mechanical operation of the door latch. Then, clean it and re-lube it and check operation again before putting it back in.

    There's a chance, of course, it could be something else on that fuse but that's a very common cause of the parasitic draw you have.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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  15. #73
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    I forget, did he check the vehicle for codes by the method in the diagram below?

    Screenshot 2016-11-23 09.58.59.jpg
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black
    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

  16. #74
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    Hi again,
    Is it important for him to check the current draw to know what is causing the drain? He said when he took out the fuse 7 from under the drivers side dashboard that the sliding doors do not work. So does that mean the doors could be the reason for the draw? Is this an expensive fix? What else does that fuse control? This is our first Honda and we are about ready to sell it. One problem after another - getting too expensive.

  17. #75
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    No he did not check for codes by the diagram because he does not have a code reader. We do not use the sliding doors often but have not noticed any problems with them when we have used them. What should we look for? Doors not closing tight? Will turning off the automatic doors keep the battery from drawing? The dash panel does not show any doors open. (it also did not show low tire pressure when one tire went flat). We are an older couple but we go to auctions and have grandchildren so we love the van and we plan to always have one. We probably not get another Honda. So many things to go wrong. A big thank you for this forum - it has been so helpful.

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