A/C not cold
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Thread: A/C not cold

  1. #1
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    A/C not cold

    I just bought a 2002 Honda Odyssey EX and just noticed on the trip home that the A/C was not blowing out cold air from any of the vents. The fans in the front and back both work at all speeds. The compressor clutch does not seem to be engaging when the A/C is on. I checked fuse #3 at drivers floor board and the mg clutch (7.5A) fuse in the main fuse panel under the hood and both were fine. I removed the pressure switch connector on the refrigerant line and the compressor clutch still did not engage, but the cooling fans did turn off. I removed the refrigerant high and low side caps and opened valves and refrigerant came out of them. Please help

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  3. #2
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    I had a similar problem with my 00 Ex. No cold air at front, but slightly cooler air in back. I bought a can of refrigerant with a gauge and followed the directions. I connected the can to the low pressure valve and checked the pressure, which was low. Press the button to release the new refrigerant until you reach the "green" reading and that was it. A can cost about $20.

  4. #3
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    25-40 psi is what you need on the low pressure side for cooling.....

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    Thanks for the replies. Yes, that's what I was planning to try next is to buy a kit and repressurize. Can you tell me which fitting is low pressure and which is high? I see 2 fittings covered with blue covers on the passenger side and 1 with a black cover on the drivers side.

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    I have a kit for pressurizing now and it only fits onto one of the fittings (low pressure).

    However, the compressor is not switching on, so I cannot add refrigerant. My thought is that the pressure gets too low and via a pressure switch shuts the compressor down. Anyone have similar issues? I imagine I will need to find a way to overide the system to cause the compressor to stay on so I can recharge the system up to normal levels.

  7. #6
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    if it really is low on refrigerant, you can add it via the low side with compressor off by putting the can in warm water.
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  8. #7
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    Low pressure fitting is larger in diameter than high pressure one.

  9. #8
    Registered User William Wiles's Avatar
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    The AC pressure switch will block the compressor if the pressure gets below approximately 33 psi or above 370 psi. With the compressor off the system will balance in the middle of this range. If the pressure is below 33 with the compressor not running it has a leak. If id is in the middle of this range and the compressor is not running something else is wrong.
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  10. #9
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    Originally posted by mtrice7
    Thanks for the replies. Yes, that's what I was planning to try next is to buy a kit and repressurize. Can you tell me which fitting is low pressure and which is high? I see 2 fittings covered with blue covers on the passenger side and 1 with a black cover on the drivers side.
    Troubleshoot first. You're getting some good information from our Ody gearheads. Find out if you have enough static pressure to actuate the switch, then go from there.

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    I also had an issue with the engine coolant temperature gauge railed high and an extended start in the mornings when the engine was cold. So to solve the temp gage issue, I checked out the ECT sensor and it was faulty. I also had Autozone check for codes generated and the check found a code of P0117, which confirmed my finding of faulty ECT sensor. I found a replacement ECT at Autozone as a stock item for $26.

    After a lot of troubleshooting including trying to add more refrigerant before replacing the ECT sensor with no change in A/C performance, I found the faulty ECT sensor was causing my Ody 1) to take a long time to start in the morning when the engine was cold, 2) to disable the A/C compressor, and 3) to display the engine coolant temperature gauge as railed high. Thanks for your help razcob, chiody, brians, William Wiles, and Odyfamily.

  12. #11
    mem
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    mtrice7,

    Interesting post. You know, the AC system has various layers of protection. As others have pointed out, there is a low pressure switch which keeps the system from coming on if the refrigerant pressure is too low (this protects the compressor) and a high pressure cut off if the head pressure gets excessive (to protect the entire system). As a final resort for excessive pressure, there is a blow-out valve on the bottom of the compressor - I've had the "pleasure" of being present when that goes off and I must say it gets your attention.

    And then there is the protection associated with the cooling system if your temp. gets too high the compressor is shut down. Creature comforts are sacrificed to protect your engine. It seems that your faulty gage brought this into play.

    You say you added refrigerant. I think you should consider the possibility that your system is now overcharged. That's not a good thing. Do you think it is a possibility? How much refrigerant did you add?

    Glad you solved your problem.
    Last edited by mem; 07-28-2009 at 02:04 AM.

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    mem, thanks for your comments

    After checking the fuses for this A/C issue, I shorted pins 1 & 4 of the A/C low pressure switch but this did not make a difference, therefore not a bad pressure switch. I then shorted the load pins of the mg clutch relay to turn on the A/C clutch enabling me to add refrigerant and dye.

    During the process of troubleshooting and adding refrigerant, I also experienced the compressor blow out valve for high pressure protection and I would agree that this was pretty exciting. After this blow out, there were also 2 additional warning lights that came on: check engine and TCS. The TCS turned off after a few more start up cycles and the check engine turned off after the ECT sensor replacement.

    I added 1-5 oz can of dye/R134a and 1.5 - 12oz. cans. I think most of this came out of the blow out valve and the system may have been a little low before I started. I was also concerned about an overcharge condition and rechecked the system after it was operating correctly with my gauge and it was in the recommended level (~40 PSI).

  14. #13
    mem
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    Sounds like you had some excitement!

    For future reference (for others who may search up this post), the total system charge is 30-31.7oz.

    If I understand what you are saying, you added about 23oz of refrigerant before the pressure release valve let loose.

    Let's say your system was low before you started - say 8oz down (just for purposes of discussion). Then you would have had about 45oz in the system when it vented. You may have had liquid going to the compressor at that point (i.e. you may have slugged the compressor) causing it to "jam and blow". If the compressor locked momentarily, then you likely would have heard a bit of belt squeal.

    Isn't that valve release a short burst (or sequence of bursts) blowing out high pressure refrigerant and oil? Could you have blown out about 15oz? Perhaps its possible. It just seems to me it would be pure luck if you ended up with the right charge at the end, but the fact that I'm never lucky doesn't mean you weren't!

    You might want to consider seeing if a shop will (for a reasonable price) draw out your refrigerant and meter in the proper amount. Or at least have someone put a set of gages on there and check the discharge pressure in addition to the suction pressure. To do that properly, you need the chart showing the (ballpark desired) pressures as a function of ambient temperature and humidity. By the way, I think it is difficult to properly set the charge based only on the suction pressure (and, in fact, not that easy with both pressures available). You can add a fair amount of extra charge with only a modest change in suction pressure (but perhaps a large increase in discharge pressure). If the system is overcharged, the high discharge/head pressure would prove to be a problem when the ambient temperature is high - like it is in Texas right now!

    Perhaps you can just keep on eye on things. (And if the charge is not quite right, but in the neighborhood, then it will just effect the performance a bit.)

    Glad you are up and running.
    Last edited by mem; 07-28-2009 at 09:53 PM.

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    I don't remember hearing a belt squeal, but it could have been missed due to the noise from the pressure relief event. The pressure relief event lasted for 1 cycle of 3-4 seconds (so 15 oz. is possible) and it vented refrigerant gas and oil.

    I understand your point of the only true way to get the system right is to meter it. I think for now I will just keep an eye on it's performance. Of course in Wisconsin, the high temperature is high 70's and low 80's and low humidity relative to Texas, so the A/C is under a lot less demand. Thanks for your help.

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    A set of A/C gauges would help you determine what is wrong. Our Ody A/C stopped working and I put my gauges on it. Pressure on high and low was about 30-40psi. That indicated a bad compressor. I just finished replacing the compressor and now have working A/C. Much more involved that it sounds.
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