Clicking noise while braking? READ THIS......
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Thread: Clicking noise while braking? READ THIS......

  1. #1
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    Clicking noise while braking? READ THIS......

    A "clicking noise" while braking has become quite an issue here lately, cause and remedy have also been discussed but the concern "outweighs" the "reason" and many people automatically label this as a problem, flaw, or bad engineering on Honda's part when its actually a normal working condition of the brake assembly...

    So you ask yourself.. "Why do I hear a clicking noise when I initially apply the brakes at slow speeds?"

    This is caused from movement of the front brake pads within the caliper bracket assembly.. and is most noticeable when the motion of the vehicle is changed from one direction to the other..i.e. foward to reverse, reverse to foward..

    A reason for the excessive clearance between the brake pad and caliper is because it will prevent problems many years down the road... That clicking noise might be annoying now, but it may save you a ton of money and protect your well being in the future....

    In most cases(depending on geographical location) your front caliper brackets are going to oxidize and begin to rust... When this happens it will expand the metal in the caliper bracket and that extra "expansion" pressure will directly affect the brake pad or pads itself...

    This extra pressure will prevent the pads from moving "freely" causing brake pedal "fade", premature brake pad wear, premature "breakdown" of the brake lube(Molykote) due to extra heat causing caliper pins to become "frozen" within the caliper bracket and not to mention, excessive heat on the front rotors causing them to warp..

    How bad can it get?? ... several times I have needed an impact hammer to free up stuck pads and or caliper pins.. trust me, you want these components to move "freely" when you depress the brake pedal for the fact that safety is involved here..

    We see this problem today in some of the first gen Oddy's and can be a pretty steep repair bill if all mentioned parts require attention...Some of you may have already experienced this first hand..

    The "pad shift click" has become quite a hot topic here, but in my honest opinion is blown way out of proportion.

    It doesn't mean that the brakes are going to fail or that your suspension is going to fall off your vehicle while driving, it just means the pads are moving "freely" without any restriction, This was intended for effecient braking when needed, This includes your safety and the safety of others on the road....

    If it that clicking bothers you that much, then visit the dealer or any of the national brake shop chains and have them coat the front pads and caliper assembly with a molykote, anti-seize or any other type of brake lube, this will "dampen" the noise so it becomes un-noticeable.. its not a big job and should only cost a few bucks.. If the car is still under warranty, then it shouldn't cost you anything at the dealer..but again, it all depends on the dealer...

    So next time you hear that clicking, maybe you'll be able to breathe a little easier and understand what is actually happening to cause that click and realize that it isn't a problem eventually enough brake dust and dirt should accumulate to also dampen that "pad shift click" but for the most part, think of it as normal and not a problem...

    BreakStuff
    I'm not really a Honda Tech... I just play one on this forum..

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  3. #2
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    Re: Clicking noise while braking? READ THIS......

    Originally posted by BreakStuff
    A "clicking noise" while braking has become quite an issue here lately, cause and remedy have also been discussed but the concern "outweighs" the "reason" and many people automatically label this as a problem, flaw, or bad engineering on Honda's part when its actually a normal working condition of the brake assembly...

    So you ask yourself.. "Why do I hear a clicking noise when I initially apply the brakes at slow speeds?"

    This is caused from movement of the front brake pads within the caliper bracket assembly.. and is most noticeable when the motion of the vehicle is changed from one direction to the other..i.e. foward to reverse, reverse to foward..

    A reason for the excessive clearance between the brake pad and caliper is because it will prevent problems many years down the road... That clicking noise might be annoying now, but it may save you a ton of money and protect your well being in the future....

    In most cases(depending on geographical location) your front caliper brackets are going to oxidize and begin to rust... When this happens it will expand the metal in the caliper bracket and that extra "expansion" pressure will directly affect the brake pad or pads itself...

    This extra pressure will prevent the pads from moving "freely" causing brake pedal "fade", premature brake pad wear, premature "breakdown" of the brake lube(Molykote) due to extra heat causing caliper pins to become "frozen" within the caliper bracket and not to mention, excessive heat on the front rotors causing them to warp..

    How bad can it get?? ... several times I have needed an impact hammer to free up stuck pads and or caliper pins.. trust me, you want these components to move "freely" when you depress the brake pedal for the fact that safety is involved here..

    We see this problem today in some of the first gen Oddy's and can be a pretty steep repair bill if all mentioned parts require attention...Some of you may have already experienced this first hand..

    The "pad shift click" has become quite a hot topic here, but in my honest opinion is blown way out of proportion.

    It doesn't mean that the brakes are going to fail or that your suspension is going to fall off your vehicle while driving, it just means the pads are moving "freely" without any restriction, This was intended for effecient braking when needed, This includes your safety and the safety of others on the road....

    If it that clicking bothers you that much, then visit the dealer or any of the national brake shop chains and have them coat the front pads and caliper assembly with a molykote, anti-seize or any other type of brake lube, this will "dampen" the noise so it becomes un-noticeable.. its not a big job and should only cost a few bucks.. If the car is still under warranty, then it shouldn't cost you anything at the dealer..but again, it all depends on the dealer...

    So next time you hear that clicking, maybe you'll be able to breathe a little easier and understand what is actually happening to cause that click and realize that it isn't a problem eventually enough brake dust and dirt should accumulate to also dampen that "pad shift click" but for the most part, think of it as normal and not a problem...

    BreakStuff
    I beg to differ with you on this issue. The noise is not "pad shift", it is the entire caliper shifting and the pins clicking in their bores. The pads are pretty much kept from shifting by the little stainless steel pad retainers which are installed in the rails of the caliper mount. I have had my whole caliper assemblies, including the mounts replaced and thouroughly greased and they were a little bit quieter for about a day or two and then all the noise returned. I would ask you to take a wheel off any Odyssey and see how much movement you can get just by rocking the caliper in any direction. It is way more than on any other system I have ever owned. I agree with what you say about systems getting bound up in places where the winters are tough and the salt is on the roads. Folks who live in such places should religiously have the recommended brake checks and lubrications done. Where I live, none of this is a problem, but, a constant "clatter" over broken pavement, which sounds just like a worn out idler arm IS, in a nearly new automobile. I could get a long with the noise if it was only a click when braking for the first time after changing directions, but, my noise happens almost CONSTANTLY. I have known, from the beginning, that nothing is going to fall off or break. It is just going to drive me NUTS! Of course, I can always go down the street with my foot lightly on the brake pedal, which gets rid of the noise.

    Jerry O.
    UFCW Retired
    UNION, YES!!!
    (The labor movement, the folks who brought you the weekend)

    2014 Celestial Blue EX-L + 19" Advanti B1 wheels w/ 245/50-19 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 tires, a WeatherTech cargo mat w/ added "bumper bib", a ScanGauge II and a nice large basket in place of the difficult to use front console. AirLift kit #60815 and DashMat dash cover (black to beat windshield reflection) added.

    2006 Ocean Mist Metallic EX gone to live with daughter and family in Illinois

  4. #3
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    The noise is not "pad shift", it is the entire caliper shifting and the pins clicking in their bores

    Applied Brakes Click Honda Service News September 1998

    On any Honda, clearance between brake caliper brackets
    and the ends of the brake pad backing plates can cause a
    clicking noise the first time you apply the brakes in a
    new direction of travel (such as when you back up and
    then drive forward and apply the brakes).This is a normal characteristic of the brake system.
    I'm not really a Honda Tech... I just play one on this forum..

  5. #4
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    Originally posted by BreakStuff
    Applied Brakes Click Honda Service News September 1998

    On any Honda, clearance between brake caliper brackets
    and the ends of the brake pad backing plates can cause a
    clicking noise the first time you apply the brakes in a
    new direction of travel (such as when you back up and
    then drive forward and apply the brakes).This is a normal characteristic of the brake system.
    We're talking about different things here. I know pads can "click" on the first stop in a new direction. I am talking about the whole d**n caliper "clanking" over EVERY d**n bump I run over. If that is normal, I cannot imagine how they would EVER sell a high line Acura, if they use the same sort of brake design. Maybe I should just turn the music up and pretend the noise is not there, but I read many years ago that when they surveyed cars in wrecking yards, which had been involved in accidents, they found that, almost without exception, their radios were adjusted to a loud setting. Go figure.

    Jerry O.
    UFCW Retired
    UNION, YES!!!
    (The labor movement, the folks who brought you the weekend)

    2014 Celestial Blue EX-L + 19" Advanti B1 wheels w/ 245/50-19 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 tires, a WeatherTech cargo mat w/ added "bumper bib", a ScanGauge II and a nice large basket in place of the difficult to use front console. AirLift kit #60815 and DashMat dash cover (black to beat windshield reflection) added.

    2006 Ocean Mist Metallic EX gone to live with daughter and family in Illinois

  6. #5
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    Jerry O,

    That can't be right. Tow truck drivers always steal the stereos out of totaled cars!
    2012 EX (hers) 03 LX (reserve force)
    2013 Chevy Cruze Eco (stick!) commuting average 40mpg

    Gone:Caddy CTS (neutered, aka auto trans), Jetta 1.8T (stick!),95 & 02 Saturn SL (stick!)

  7. #6
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    Originally posted by Jerry O
    I read many years ago that when they surveyed cars in wrecking yards, which had been involved in accidents, they found that, almost without exception, their radios were adjusted to a loud setting. Go figure.
    heh heh heh Not mine. My radio resets to a low volume level on power-on.

    Besides, with modern radios with electronic volume controls, how can you tell without turning on the radio? There's no regular volume knob to check the position of. And in most wrecked cars, turning on the radio would be just about impossible.

  8. #7
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    Originally posted by adam1991
    heh heh heh Not mine. My radio resets to a low volume level on power-on.

    Besides, with modern radios with electronic volume controls, how can you tell without turning on the radio? There's no regular volume knob to check the position of. And in most wrecked cars, turning on the radio would be just about impossible.
    I'm talking about a time before modern electronic controls and before the "blow the windows out" systems on the road these days. I cannot imagine how the brains of the folks with those systems on so loud can even function (maybe they do not, Hee! Hee!). In a wrecked car, we used to check them out at the wrecking yard just by hooking them up to a battery, before we sold them. If you do not disturb the controls, I believe you could still do the same thing. If it was on loud, it will come on loud. BTW, the radio in my LX has a volume knob, just like the old days. I just wish it had a TUNING KNOB, so one could micro adjust for weak stations. These digital radios (at least OE models) really do a poor job, especially on AM (yeah, I still use that).

    Jerry O.
    UFCW Retired
    UNION, YES!!!
    (The labor movement, the folks who brought you the weekend)

    2014 Celestial Blue EX-L + 19" Advanti B1 wheels w/ 245/50-19 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 tires, a WeatherTech cargo mat w/ added "bumper bib", a ScanGauge II and a nice large basket in place of the difficult to use front console. AirLift kit #60815 and DashMat dash cover (black to beat windshield reflection) added.

    2006 Ocean Mist Metallic EX gone to live with daughter and family in Illinois

  9. #8
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    I just wish it had a TUNING KNOB, so one could micro adjust for weak stations. These digital radios (at least OE models) really do a poor job, especially on AM (yeah, I still use that).
    I hear that Jerry!.... I hate digital tuners and would prefer the older "analog" style in my radios or even my television!
    I'm not really a Honda Tech... I just play one on this forum..

  10. #9
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    Back to the subject at hand. I'm trying to diagnose my "suspension" rattle in my 2002 Ody. The noise is hard to pinpoint, but usually sounds like its coming from the front right. It sounds like a loose strut or tie-rod. The rattle/banging is not constant but can happen at almost any speed. It can be very quiet or very loud. It appears to be brought on by slightly to moderately rough roads, but not by severe bumps. It may be my imagination, but going around a left hand curve (putting load on the right side of the vehicle) may also bring on the rattle.

    The dealer thought it was a bad transmission and replaced it. This was not the problem. The upside of this is that I got a new Re-Man. tranny with, according to the dealer, a 3yr/36k mile warranty from the date of replacement.

    Has it been confirmed that the Lower Control Arm torque issue does not apply to the 2002's? Do I need to ignore this possibility and focus on the brake calipers? Or do I see about getting the strut re-torqued, as I saw on another thread in the 2002 section? (That thread talks about a "tick," my noise is more significant than a tick.)

    Thanks for any light you can shed on this issue.
    Last edited by eduardo; 10-30-2002 at 03:42 PM.

  11. #10
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    This is for "eduardo". Check out page two of this section under "Ticking noise behind driver side dash". I think you might have similar problem but it's just on the passeger side.

  12. #11
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    Regarding noisy/loose calipers: I recently did a full brake job on my 2k. I found that one of the caliper sliding pins has a rubber sleeve - presumably to attempt to quiet/snug the caliper. Does your have this?

  13. #12
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    I think the rubber sleeve is normal. It's function is to make the brakes self adjusting. It hold the calipers almost but not quite in contact with the disks. Without it, you would have lots of pedal travel when you apply your brakes.
    Ron

  14. #13
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    Only if you have some very warped rotors would your calipers be pushed back enough to matter.

    Parts guy at Honda says they are there to quiet the calipers - try to make them have less play as opposed to steel pins w/o the little jimmy hat.

  15. #14
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    I saw this on the Honda Element forum as a fix to the brake clicking problem. From my understanding of the problem, seems like it would work. I don't know where the picture came from. The post on the other forum indicated it was a Honda document. Any of our Tech's care to comment? While it may indeed fix the problem, cutting up business cards to make Honda brakes quiet seems a bit silly!
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  16. #15
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    My Odyssey has just had it's 24,000 km maintenance. It took me a day to notice but the clicking noise has gone. I did not ask the dealer to look at the problem because I believed it was inherent in the design of the brakes and the only item on the invoice that is unusual is "Brake cleaner". So, I have no idea what they did but the clicking noise is completely gone, I shall be interested to see if it returns.
    2002 EX - Transmission replaced at 84,000km (52,000 miles). Sold at 104,000km.

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