Registered: Jun 2001
Location: Roseville, MN
Posts: 1381

Fog Light Installation Notes

My fog lights are installed, and functioning, with Chuck’s wiring modification, slightly modified. Thanks Chuck!

Honda should not be proud of the installation instructions. They could have been much better. Here are some of my comments:

When cutting the bumper openings forget measuring 10mm on the outside and 12mm on the inside; just use the existing openings on the left side and the corner holes on the right side as a guide. Be sure you don’t cut off the rib. In general, you don’t have to worry too much about making the hole a little too big, but if you make it too small you’ll have to spend time enlarging it. Test the fit of the light housings in the openings before you remove the bumper.

The instructions clearly instruct you to use the 5 x 10 mm washer-screws to install the light brackets. These are too short to mate with the spring nuts; use the longer screws here. Likewise, the “special washer-screws” are too long (or at least longer than necessary) to mount the light housing to the brackets, use the short ones. (Sure wish I had known this sooner.)

Either the wiring harness tags or the instructions misidentify the harnesses. This is pretty obvious when you go to install them. This error sure doesn’t instill confidence in the instructions.

Unless you’re working in a very clean area, put a plastic bag or tape over the fog light connectors and connector for Relay A while you’re working with the engine compartment harness. Since these connectors contain grease they attract dirt, sand, etc.

Install the clips for the right side of the wiring harness starting from the right side and working toward the left. It’s easier to line them up this way. You may find that the last clip needs to be removed and replaced with a wire tie. BTW a small socket makes a good tool to remove these clips.

Install Chuck’s wiring mod so you have absolute control over the fog lights. However, instead of soldering a jumper behind the light switch, install two wires with male/female connectors back where the legs of the harness come together. This way you can revert to “factory” operation by connecting the relay and disconnecting the jumper. You might want to do this if you sell the vehicle, many years from now .

The grommet through the firewall is a great path for other wires, e.g., your external thermometer probe. Open up the tape and fish it through before you install the grommet.

Does/did anyone install silicone sealer around the grommet, per the instructions? I think it’s much more likely to leak because the tape comes loose (remember, you took it loose when you ran the wire for your thermometer). Since the grommet fits very well, if it’s going to leak the van is in danger of sinking and this becomes a very minor problem.

Consider cutting out a slot in the mounting tab for Relay B. Getting the mounting screw out isn’t too difficult, but I had a terrible time getting it back in. I couldn’t get both hands in place hanging upside down under the dash. Cutting a slot in the side of the mounting tab, so that it could be installed by simply loosening the bolt would have saved a lot of time and frustration. It’d still be very secure.

Hope this helps someone.

Mel

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Registered: Jun 2001
Location: Roseville, MN
Posts: 1381

Just curious: Anyone find this useful?

Mel

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Registered: Jun 2001
Location: Loveland, Ohio
Posts: 176

I think it is very useful, and plan to refer to it someday when I actually buy/install some fog lights. I have found a lot of info on this site that I print out for use at some future time. I really appreciate advice like this.

John

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John
2001 Odyssey

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Registered: Jul 2001
Location: Queen Creek, Arizona, Maricopa
Posts: 565

I think there is no use for fog light in Arizona. I probably keep the 2 port holes open for air inlet to the engine. It might be better for the car. If I live in the central valley of California, it is a different story. I used to live there for almost 20 yrs. The fog can get very ugly in winter; then I need a fog light.

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@2006 Odyssey- Slate Green
-EXL/NAV/RES/XM
-Alarm
-Fog Lamps
-Roof Rack
@2006 Civic Coupe- Atomic Blue
-EX/NAV
-CD/MP3/XM/PC CARD
-Fog Lamps
-Alarm
-Rear Spoiler
-Half Nose Mask
@2006 Bicycles
-Mountain Bike- Blue (man)
-Kid trailer
-Mountain Bike- Silver (woman)

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Registered: Mar 2001
Location: Texas City, Tx. USA
Posts: 342

Hi Folks,

Well, I installed my fog lamps and transmission cooler this evening. I did the transmission cooler right before I reinstalled the front facia. It was one of the easier installs I've done and I didn't loose as much transmission fluid as I expected to. All went well with the fog light installation accept for a minor problem reinstalling the front facia on the fan. It seems there's a styrofoam bumper that pads between the metal support that it the "real" bumper and the plastic of the front facia. I accidentally pumped that with my knee and knocked it off. No big deal I thought, it just snaps right in place. Only problem is, I put it on upside down. This made it impossible for the facia to line up properly with the rest of the car. After much fussing, I finally figured out what I was doing wrong, turned the styrofoam part over, and the front facia just slid in place!

At this point in time, I'd like to offer a hearty thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU, to Mel. You're notes posted at the beginning of this thread were a BIG help. You were absolutely right on the mounting bolts for the fog lamps themselves. I don't know what Honda was thinking with those 10mm bolts. They are way to short for their intended purpose. Fortunately, they were easily interchanged with the longer ones in the kit and it wasn't a problem.

I didn't have any problems with the wiring looms themselves. As you said, they're pretty obvious when you look at them. Also my car is new enough that dirt in the engine compartment isn't a signficant problem yet. You're recommendation to install the retaining clips from the cars right to left also made sense once I got into it. Things worked out much easier that way.

And last but certainly not least, your recommendation to cut a slot in the mounting bracket for relay B was spot on. Once I got under the dash and started loosening that bolt, it became immediately obvious that this was going to be a "no win" situation and I guarentee that I'd have done exactly what you did without the 20/20 hind sight that you provided at this stage of the install process.

I'd also like to thank Chuck for his detective work in figuring out how to keep the fog lights active on high beam. I made that mod and am really glad I did. I didn't worry about the parking light mod as that's not a biggy to me and besides, I wasn't in the mood to do the soldering job. I'm very happy with how this worked out.

Well, I think I'm done with the add on's for a while. I may get the bug/stone deflector for the hood later on. Right now, after the subwoofer/in-dash CD changer special, the fog light special and tranny cooler modes, I've got a few bills to pay off. I've got the car pretty much like I invisioned it now anyway!

That's it guys!

Take Care & Drive Safe,
Steve

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Drive Safe,
Steve R.
'01 SS LX
Cargo tray, leather steering wheel, mud guards, alarm, fog lights, air deflector, transmission cooler, remote CD player, Kelton subwoofer.

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Registered: Apr 2001
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 196

quote:

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mel:
Just curious: Anyone find this useful?

Mel</font>

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Tom
2002 RP EXL-RES

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Registered: Jun 2001
Location: Roseville, MN
Posts: 1381

Intrepid175 and tomhan,

You're very welcome, I've very happy you found the information useful.

Please note, the wiring modification to allow operation of the fog lights anytime the parking lights are on can be made without any soldering. Use "3M™ Scotchlok™ 557 Electrical IDC, Pigtail" (I copied that description from the 3M page), or something similar, to tap into the wiring for the fog light switch. These work especially well when you make the mod back on the wiring harness instead of at the switch since you don't have any possible space constraints under the dash like you may have near the switch.

Mel

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Registered: Jul 2001
Location:
Posts: 2

I would like to second the motion for including Mel's original posting to the tech section. Great job!

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'01 MB EX
Cargo Tray, Steering Wheel Cover

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Registered: Mar 2002
Location: West Windsor, NJ
Posts: 45

quote:

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mel:

The instructions clearly instruct you to use the 5 x 10 mm washer-screws to install the light brackets. These are too short to mate with the spring nuts; use the longer screws here. Likewise, the “special washer-screws” are too long (or at least longer than necessary) to mount the light housing to the brackets, use the short ones. (Sure wish I had known this sooner.)

Mel</font>

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MarioB
01 DEP EX

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Registered: Jun 2001
Location: Roseville, MN
Posts: 1381

MarioB,

I thought about using the spring nuts that way but decided against it. The I've always thought of the "spring" part of such fasteners as an aid to assembly, not an integral part of the final assembly. Mounting them "backwards" relies upon the "spring" to keep the attached part secure. I don't think this is a good idea. Anyway, if you switch the screws you don't have to compromise anything.

Mel

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Registered: Oct 2001
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 16

OK. I went the easy way( and was too chicken to do it anyway). Bought the foglight from HandA and had my mechanic installed it on Monday. I trust the mechanic and even he told me it was hard. He did mention this is the first Ody fog light he installed. The labor cost was $100. The total cost for foglight is $390, which saves me $200 from the deal's asking price. I know I don't get the Honda warranty on this part, but I will cross my fingers....

You guys are awesome. I really envy all of you who installed the foglight. I learned a lot. Thanks

Now. I was trying to do the Chuck foglight mod #1 last night. This is the 1st time I messed with any electrical connector. So,
here comes my 1st dumb question:

How do I "release the connector with a small screwdriver and pull it out" ? I used a glasses screwdriver and exhausted all my guesses with no luck.


And to Mel,

Could you elaborate on your no soldering mod ? As a REAL newbie to this, I can't understand what you had done. Would love to have the feature...

Your help is greatly appreciated.

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Registered: Jun 2001
Location: Roseville, MN
Posts: 1381

The mod I installed is Option 2. It's the best choice since it allows you complete control over the fog lights.

1. You don't need to release any contacts from the connectors with this version. You just disconnect the fog light relay that's inside the passenger compartment.

2. To make the wiring change without soldering you use wire taps, the 3M brand is called Scotchlok. These slip over the wire you are tapping on to and get crimped in place. You don't even need to strip the wire. I suggest placing your jumper on the harness, near the inside relay (read on); just trace the wires Chuck identified back in the harness.

To make the modification easily reversible and reinstallable insert a pair of insulated spade or bullet connectors in your jumper wire. To remove the mod: connect the relay and open the jumper. To reinstall: disconnect the relay and connect the jumper.

BTW: I don't trust your mechanic. This installation is NOT (technically) difficult Although, taking a saw to your new bumper is a little emotionally difficult. It might be made more difficult if you tried to remove and reinstall the bumper without a assistant just because it's a little unwieldy. On the positive side, $100 is probably a reasonable installation charge for the time involved.

Mel

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Registered: Oct 2001
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 16

Mel. Thanks for the info. This appears to be a project to my limited ability. I'll put it into my future plan. My wife already complained I spent too much time on her van.

We have a trip to Mammoth lake this Thanksgiving. For a quick mod, could someone help with my first "dumb" question? I.e.

How do I "release the connector with a small screwdriver and pull it out" ? I used a glasses screwdriver and exhausted all my guesses with no luck.

Chuck ?? Anyone ??

Thanks

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Registered: Mar 2002
Location: Northville, MI
Posts: 1312

quote:

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by TurboRT:
Mel. Thanks for the info. This appears to be a project to my limited ability. I'll put it into my future plan. My wife already complained I spent too much time on her van.

We have a trip to Mammoth lake this Thanksgiving. For a quick mod, could someone help with my first "dumb" question? I.e.

How do I "release the connector with a small screwdriver and pull it out" ? I used a glasses screwdriver and exhausted all my guesses with no luck.

Chuck ?? Anyone ??

Thanks

</font>

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__________________
Chuck K,
Self-elected President, Vice President, Sergeant-at Arms and Charter Member of the Official Former Ody Owners Chapter of the OdyClub, founded 2/22/2002

http://ckon.zenfolio.com/

2002 SR5 Sport Edition, Thundercloud Metallic, Thule Bike Rack, Hardwired Radar Detector, Stainless Steel Sill Plate Screws, Tinted Windows, Electronic Compass, Full Time Power Outlets, Deck Plate Mod, Rewired Fog Lights, Addco Anti-sway Bars, Energy Suspension Bushings, Added Full-time Power Outlets, "Enhanced" Grille Logo, Added Power Outlets

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Registered: Mar 2001
Location: Texas City, Tx. USA
Posts: 342

quote:

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by TurboRT:
How do I "release the connector with a small screwdriver and pull it out" ? I used a glasses screwdriver and exhausted all my guesses with no luck.

Chuck ?? Anyone ??

Thanks

</font>

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Hi TurboRT,

I know it's frustrating but if you catch that release right, the connector will slide right out. I had a little trouble with it also. Just keep fiddling with it and it will pop right out. If you're like me, you'll still be wondering what you got hold of that released the darn thing!

Good Luck!



------------------
Drive Safe,
Steve R.
'01 SS LX
Cargo tray, leather steering wheel, mud guards, alarm, fog lights, transmission cooler, in-dash CD player, Kelton subwoofer, under seat storage tray.

__________________
Drive Safe,
Steve R.
'01 SS LX
Cargo tray, leather steering wheel, mud guards, alarm, fog lights, air deflector, transmission cooler, remote CD player, Kelton subwoofer.

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