I modified my '04 Ody so that the power windows are always operable i.e. you don't need the key. This, at least, makes it so that at the end of the day I can close things up without going back in the house to get the key. According to the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM) this should work the same on 99-04 models.
Essentially what I did was to put a jumper across the Power Window Relay normally-open contact pins. This lets the windows operate normally in every way, except you don't need a key.
Attached is a partial schematic from p120-5 of the ETM showing the relay. The little curved line I've drawn indicates the added jumper. Note that the pin numbers on the ETM are incorrect. The pins that get the jumper are numbered 3 & 5 on the relay.
More details in the accompanying posts.
This thread is provided only as information as to what I did, not as a recommendation for others to do likewise. Any consequences, direct or indirect, are at your own risk.
Regards,
Don
CA
You'll find the Power Window Relay on the back side of the Passenger's Under Dash Fuse/Relay box. This is down by the passenger's right foot. You have to remove the triangular trim panel (always the hardest part of any mod!). On the '04, there is a mushroom-head nut that can be unscrewed, or just pried off. There is one "poke-in" fitting, and a couple edge hooks.
The Fuse/Relay panel is held on with two screws (10mm). The bottom one is easy, the top less so.
There is enough slack in the cables to be able to muscle the unit around to reach the Window Relay on the back. Fortunately it is the one closest. The attached photo shows the empty socket from which the relay was unplugged. The toughest part is holding the 2 retainer clips back while trying to pull out the relay. I used pliers to pull while pushing the clips back with a small screwdriver.
Once you have the relay out the rest easy, except for replacing that Trim Panel.
I used a piece of solid 20 gauge wire, and bent it so that it shorts pin 3 to pin 5. These are the contacts of the relay. If you're adept, you could do a little soldering. I didn't. Plug the relay back in and you can test the mod immediately. If you don't like it, it's easy to undo.
You'll find that the windows work exactly as before except for the key reqirement. The on/off switch and auto functions are not affected.
Last night was my first trial. It was nice to reach in the driver's window, press the lock switch, then close the passenger & rear windows. After that I hit the auto-up button and pulled my arm out.
As I said earlier, this is informational only, not a recommendation. Who knows - this could wreck your transmission!
Regards,
Don
CA
They are always powered when you have the ignition switch turned on. They also maintain power for a certain amount of time after the ignition is turned off.
Couldn't this be dangerous with kids alone in car in garage where no one can hear if something goes wrong. Strictly assumption, of course. I have no kids.
If there is way to put a switch inline to this mod. it will be nice. Just so it won't drain battery and also instant disconnect of power if needs arise.
This has already been discussed at length in General Discussion Forum.
Like I said, this isn't a recommendation, just relating a story of what I did.
YMMV
Regards,
Don
Another alternative, although probably no better, would be to pull the relay out completely and install a jumper between the two pin sockets. I doubt that the controller would notice that you had an "open relay coil." I suspect that a jumper made from a couple of 3/16" or ¼" male spade connectors and a short piece of wire would work.
Nice work. I think I know what I'm doing for part of tomorrow afternoon.
Regarding always powered windows. I was doing some work on a 91 Accord yesterday, and noticed that the power windows on this car worked without the ignition on. Just like the Ody. Also only worked for about 3 minutes after the ignition was off and only worked one time.
I modified my '04 Ody so that the power windows are always operable i.e. you don't need the key. This, at least, makes it so that at the end of the day I can close things up without going back in the house to get the key.
I can now declare that this mod works on an '02 Ody as well.
Because it was so cramped, I figured I'd experiment and went in through the back of my glove compartment. Total waste of time. I ended up doing it exactly the way K2BIO originally described.
A few observations:
Upon removing the bottom bolt, I came across the jumper of <a href="http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8658&highlight=sliding+door+mod">ckonarske's sliding door mod</a> and had to think for a few minutes why there was an obviously after-market jumper going to the bolt! Maybe it's time I start labelling all my jumpers!
For the hell of it (and to show brash confidence in K2BIO's guidance), I soldered in the jumper without even testing it. I started to wonder though after I took the relay out of the vise and it was burning hot. But I guess the components survived my "heat treatment." Or maybe they all fused together inside. Doesn't matter, I suppose.
The hardest part was getting the topmost 10mm bolt back in. It turns out there is another hole nearby and due to the angle, it's almost impossible to see that so I spent 5 minutes trying to thread the bolt in to the wrong hole.
But once I popped the relay back in, I was able to try it out immediately. Ah, bliss! Thank you K2BIO!
I modified my '04 Ody so that the power windows are always operable i.e. you don't need the key. This, at least, makes it so that at the end of the day I can close things up without going back in the house to get the key.
In the past week, I've found this handy for a number of other reasons: If it starts raining and I've left the windows open. If it's really hot and I want to open the windows a crack to ventilate. So I can leave my kid in the car and she can open or close the windows while she waits. When I told my daughter about the mod, she said "About time, dad!"
Of course, this mod isn't complete without a hidden exterior key (or the exterior keypad mod). That way, if you're working outside and it's getting hot and you want to vent the car, you don't have to go back inside (in grubby gardening or painting clothes, etc) to look for the key.
Another alternative, although probably no better, would be to pull the relay out completely and install a jumper between the two pin sockets. I doubt that the controller would notice that you had an "open relay coil." I suspect that a jumper made from a couple of 3/16" or ¼" male spade connectors and a short piece of wire would work.
Nice work. I think I know what I'm doing for part of tomorrow afternoon.
Yes, jumper wire worked perfectly. I used this method as it was easy and I had the materials on hand.
At the same time I installed a glove box light/switch assembly from a wrecked 87 Accord. Used the Accord wiring harness and connector and tapped into the wires for the storage bin light wiring (a bit of a pain finding the wires from the bin). The colours of the wires from the 87 Accord were even the same as the ones for the Ody. How cool is that. I used the instructions from the Tech section and the light works perfecty. Many thanks to the forum writers for these mods. They are great to have and make the van that much sweeter to operate.
Studying the '08 (I assume it's the same for the '05) power window schematic leads me to the following belief:
Simply replacing the relay with a jumper would enable power to all the windows BUT the driver's window. Power to the driver's window is embedded within the DMCU (Driver's Multiplex Control Unit). I haven't tried to disassemble it. I'm assuming it's a single chip from the way the schematic is drawn. That would be a showstopper because you need the logic in the DMCU to convert the switch into pulses to operate the driver's window itself.
Not shown in the circuit but evident in the connect is IGN (Ignition), which must be how the computer tells the DMCU to start the 10 minute timer to depower the windows. I thought about jumpering IGN but my suspicion is that this would then prevent the security system since you can enable the alarm when the car is running. A second concern is that IGN might also hold a relay (internal to the DMCU) closed, thereby drawing power even when the car is off. I don't have the right kind of ammeter to test this theory, alas.
If anyone tries this idea, I'd love to hear the results!
Thanks. If I do anything I will probably install the KP Tech box. That will not happen until I have at least one other reason to take the door panel off.
Thanks. If I do anything I will probably install the KP Tech box. That will not happen until I have at least one other reason to take the door panel off.
You're talking about their roll-up module? Couldn't you do that far more cheaply with a simple $1 switch (located discretely under the armrest, for example). It would lack the wireless but since you initially asked about the powered-window mod which isn't wireless either, I presume you just care about the functionality while inside the car.
You're talking about their roll-up module? Couldn't you do that far more cheaply with a simple $1 switch (located discretely under the armrest, for example). It would lack the wireless but since you initially asked about the powered-window mod which isn't wireless either, I presume you just care about the functionality while inside the car.
Good idea to do both open and close. But I recommend against wiring it serially as you have shown. Instead, wire it in parallel (see diagram below) so that it goes around the original switch so that if your switch stops working, at least the original Honda switches still work. Also, you can then socket the switch so that it's trivial to disconnect (and still leave everything operable) in case you need to bring it back to the dealer without it. (Plus, then you can use an SP switch instead of a DP!)