Custom sub in shopvac area
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Thread: Custom sub in shopvac area

  1. #1
    Registered User Echy Inc's Avatar
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    Mar 2016

    Custom sub in shopvac area

    After major mods I like to post them somewhere so somebody can appreciate them.

    . 7cuft Fiberglass box with P3d4-10" Fosgate, 500w amp

    Seat still folds no problem and still fits full sheet of plywood.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  3. #2
    Registered User Br4hm4's Avatar
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    Oct 2017
    Colorado Springs
    looks fantastic!

  4. #3
    Registered User Echy Inc's Avatar
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    Mar 2016
    Thanks man

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  6. #4
    Registered User
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    Apr 2015
    Why did you not use the space where the stock subs were? Just curious... I'll be adding a sub and some speakers too

  7. #5
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    Jan 2016

    more infos

    Hey Echy, I for one would love to see more infos on this custom sub box, do you by chance have a video or website showing the construction of said box?

    Very nice work!

  8. #6
    Registered User Echy Inc's Avatar
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    Mar 2016
    I used every bit of space including the original box area to get as much air volume as possible in the box, I hate losing functionality but I wanted as much boom as can get. Most subs in the class I was looking at need min . 6cuft. Sounded good to me.

    I have tons of pics just wasn't going to waste time uploading if nobody cared. I posted for my other car and got little Interest so......

    I will figure out how best to get them up and work on that.
    Last edited by Echy Inc; 11-15-2017 at 10:50 PM.

  9. #7
    Registered User Echy Inc's Avatar
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    Mar 2016
    I decided I wanted to install a sub that would hit hard so I wanted to get rid of the tiny 8” that came stock and upgrade to a 10” or 12”. To do that I needed to get more air volume for the sub so I built this custom box that takes up every inch of space I could get in that rear storage area where the shop vac goes.
    The goal was to get as much cuft of air space in the box but not lose the functionality of the rear folding seats and the ability to load full sheets of plywood in the van. In the end I ended up with a fiberglass box that has apprx .7cuft of air and over 6” of mounting depth.
    I Started by figuring out where I was going to tap into the stock system for sound and I tested 2 spots. I used a line converter to tap directly into the stock sub wires and then I used regular wire taps and grabbed a signal from the rear sliding door speakers. Using a sub set up I have in another car I tested and found that I liked the line convertor better and I will keep the rear door taps to add highs into the 3rd row pillars in the future.

    There are tons of YouTube videos out there that show how to fiberglass directly into a corner of your car using masking tape as a barrier so I won’t go into detail on that. After pulling apart the rear panel you will find that you can’t just slap down masking tape because there is stuff back there so I had to make some alterations.
    I started by moving the rear hatch control and then cutting some metal tabs away to make an even shape that would be easier to work with. With the tabs removed and the control out of the way I ended up with a nice oval shape but that still isn’t good enough to start slapping down masking tape.
    To create the exact shape I wanted I started putting cardboard pieces in there and taping them into place so that I would have a shape to put the tape over.
    Once I thought I was happy with the overall shape I went crazy with the masking tape. The back cardboard made it real easy to get a flat back and not cover up the airport behind the box and I put a plastic bag over the fuse box because I was being extra cautious and didn’t want any accidents.
    With all the tape in place I started to glass it up and after 2 or 3 layers I ended up with this guy here.

  10. #8
    Registered User Echy Inc's Avatar
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    Mar 2016
    After pulling it out adding another layer of glass and grinding away the cardboard with a 4” hand grinder I decided the top arch wasn’t going to work so I chopped it off and added a piece of wood so I could mount the amp there which you can see from the end pictures worked out great because of that top window.
    Now to figure out how to mount that sub in place. I wanted it to look clean so I went with a full piece of wood that would fill the entire cut out. The cut out on the plastic was determined by just cutting along the stock lines that were there from the stock sub and cargo pocket. Super-clean, super-fast.
    I used scrap wood to hold the front panel floating in place and started to glass that together.
    The hardest part about glassing this front panel was making sure I had perfect angles on the wood edge so that it would fit perfectly into the cut-out on the plastic. I glassed on the outside of the box to get everything to hold then removed the scrap standoff wood pieces from inside. I tried to add more glass on the outside but I kept ruining the shape so I would grind it right back off and start over again. Finally I had the outside shape good and from there started glassing the inside of the box only so I could fill all holes, gaps and anywhere I thought was still thin.
    After a whole bunch of that I carpeted the outside and was happy to find that it fit perfectly snug in every way. I added a piece of blue camp mat under the box to help with vibration and that worked like a charm as well.
    Last edited by Echy Inc; 11-21-2017 at 06:51 PM.

  11. #9
    Registered User Echy Inc's Avatar
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    Mar 2016
    The amp got mounted on top and with all wires in place adjusts are easily made through the window
    I glued some magnets on the back side to the plastic and found a metal grate to cut into shape and cover the opening. even with all the bass the magnets are holding the grate in place just fine. when the system is running the blue light from the amp slightly shines through the grate holes and it looks pretty cool.
    Super happy with the build and this thing hits like a beast, so totally worth it.

    Fosgate P3D4 10” sub, Fosgate prime R500X1D amp, stock head unit.

    hope you enjoyed the write up.
    Last edited by Echy Inc; 11-21-2017 at 06:55 PM.

  12. #10
    Registered User
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    Jul 2017
    Nice work Echy! Looks (and sounds, I'm sure) really good.
    2006 Silver Ex L with 100k
    new transmission
    1999 Suburban K2500 454

    2004 Scion xB 5spd (sold)
    2006 Scion xA 5spd (sold)
    2001 Ford Expedition 5.4 (sold and missed)
    2001 Nissan Pathfinder (sold)
    1999 Ford Expedition 5.4 (totaled)
    1977 K5 Blazer 350, 6" suspension lift (sold)
    1994 Acura Legend 6spd (sold)
    1991 Toyota Camry (given away, perished)
    1987 Toyota Tercel Hatchback 5spd (given away, perished)

  13. #11
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    I have been looking for ideas for a stereo system upgrade. Nice to see a great idea well executed. Thank you for posting the details.

  14. #12
    Registered User oldwineguy's Avatar
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    Mar 2017
    Great job and details on how you executed!

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