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Transmission Fluid Change

65K views 26 replies 17 participants last post by  Rockinindian 
#1 ·
Getting ready to change my tranny fluid myself on my 06' Oddy. I have read through many of your threads here and I had a question about this procedure. As I understand it, the tranny holds 3.3 quarts of fluid. So all I should do is drain, clean the plug and fill back up with 3.3 quarts, correct? The reason I ask is I had read in a thread that when you drain the fluid you may not get all of it out so I was just curious about the capacity after a drain.

Also, I bought the Castrol ATF, compatible with Honda ATF-Z1 fluid. I know that is a hot topic here too.

Thanks for any input.
 
#2 ·
The transmission and torque cinverter hold about 7-8 quarts. When you grain it only drains about 3.4 quarts. If you want to chenge most of it you have to do 3 or 4 drain and fills. The normal service omly does a drain and fill which is enough to refresh rhe fluid unless it is abnormally dark or burnt. By then you already have damage in the transmission.
 
#4 ·
Re: thanks

cid03 said:
So I should do this 3 or 4 times in order to completely flush the system??
Well - that's the current Honda recommended procedure - doesn't get everything, but it gets most of it! (between changes it's not so much a matter of miles between them, but rather making sure that the transmission has run through all of the gears - I usually do one change a weekend for 3 or 4 weeks)
 
#5 ·
From Jan 08 Honda Service News at http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/A080100.PDF

Check Out the Latest Word on A/T Flushing
Currently Applies To: General Information
Some A/T repair procedures call for flushing the trans using Honda Genuine ATF-Z1 (and no substitutes). Problem is, where do you find the info to do that? It’s not listed in the S/Ms, and if you do an ISIS search, you’ll find a few ServiceNews articles on this subject, but they’re rather dated, and none of them say the same thing. Even the most recent one (see “Revised A/T Flushing Procedure” in the December ’00 issue) still mentions that old work horse—the PGM Tester—which we stopped supporting when the HDS first came on the scene.
NOTE: The term “flushing” refers to repeatedly draining and refilling the trans with Honda Genuine ATF-Z1. Don’t confuse it with aftermarket flush systems. American Honda still strongly recommends that you avoid using them on any Honda vehicle.
The original procedure was written for simpler A/Ts that readily upshifted when you ran the vehicle on a lift. But A/Ts have come a long way since then, and most of the newer ones balk at shifting past 2nd gear when on a lift, unless you work the shift lever a certain way.
In light of all this, we thought it was high time that the A/T flushing procedure got a facelift. So here’s the latest word on flushing that works for all A/Ts:
1. Set the parking brake, and raise the vehicle on a lift.
2. Drain the trans, and refill it with Honda Genuine ATF-Z1. Refer to the applicable S/M or to ISIS for details.
3. Start the engine, shift into Drive, and release the parking brake.
4. Push down on the accelerator pedal to raise the vehicle speed to 2,500 rpm.
• If the trans shifts past 2nd gear, go to step 5.
• If the trans won’t shift past 2nd gear, keep the engine speed at 2,500 rpm and shift from Drive to Neutral and back to Drive. Then go to step 5.
5. Make sure that the trans shifts through all the forward gears and goes into torque converter lockup.
6. Let off the accelerator pedal, and press the brake pedal to drop the vehicle speed to zero. Shift into Reverse and then into Neutral.
7. Shift into Drive, and repeat steps 4 thru 6 four more times.
8. Set the parking brake, and repeat steps 2 thru 6 two more times.
9. Drain the trans, and reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
10. Refill the A/T with ATF-Z1.
 
#8 ·
faithfultojc said:
i have a question.

When Honda replaced Torque Converter, do they replaced the tranny oil as well? (I think so)
I would hope so!! :)
 
#9 ·
My turn to change the ATF it myself.

Thanks in advance to all the ealier posters on this DIY job.

My belovid 2006 EXL is currently being filled up with 3.3 quarts of new honda ATF fluid. She is at 60,000 miles and getting a simple drain/fill. First drain/fill was at 35,000 mi by the dealer.

To recap: I slid her up on ramps just to loosen the drain bolt (See rubber mallet in the pic). I then backed it down and removed the plug by hand. I did spill some on the floor because my catch pan was too high to be in place when removing the plug. I cleaned off a fair bit of metal shavings from the magnet ( wifey was impressed ).

I guess the tricky part was finding the easiest way to add fluid through the dipstick. Eventually I used .81 cents worth of Lowes tubing and a 12-in-1 spout from walmart ($2) to size it down. I did use a little tape on the dipstick end of the tubing to make a better seal.

Anyway, it's a slow fill (5 min per quart) but what is the rush. I have plenty of things to do in the garage while it's filling.

Thanks again everyone. It is very rewarding to be able to change oil, ATF, fluid, brakes and rotors on my own time. Next will be to bleed the brakes. I don't think that has been done yet at all:( .
 
#11 ·
Re: My turn to change the ATF it myself.

rickwhyte said:
I guess the tricky part was finding the easiest way to add fluid through the dipstick.
I find it easier to fill through the fill plug on the top of the transmission - I have a funnel which ends in a long tube (it's made for transmissions - has a valve to open/close and everything - I've seen them at many part stores - think I got mine at autozone) - take the cap off, put the tube in, and fill 'er up - no spillage or anything.
 
#12 ·
Re: My turn to change the ATF it myself.

rickwhyte said:
...snip... Next will be to bleed the brakes. I don't think that has been done yet at all:( .
Good idea! Your 2006 is overdue - 3 years is the longest that brake fluid should be used.

BTW, good job on the other maintenance. You sound satisfied and you saved a bundle of $$$ too.

- Dave
 
#13 ·
Re: Re: My turn to change the ATF it myself.

DrD said:
I find it easier to fill through the fill plug on the top of the transmission - I have a funnel which ends in a long tube (it's made for transmissions - has a valve to open/close and everything - I've seen them at many part stores - think I got mine at autozone) - take the cap off, put the tube in, and fill 'er up - no spillage or anything.

I was thinking the same...as it would be pretty easy to fill using the fill plug. Problem is...I am not certain where the darn thing is???:confused:

Anybody able to describe it...maybe by size??? Pics would be really GREAT too!

Sorry for the hi-jack, but his is a topic I have been searching for...


biz
:cool:
 
#14 ·
Re: Re: Re: My turn to change the ATF it myself.

biz4two said:
I was thinking the same...as it would be pretty easy to fill using the fill plug. Problem is...I am not certain where the darn thing is???:confused:
I can take a pic later if need be, but if you look down the side of the air filter assembly to the top of the transmission housing (just to the left of the ABS controller) it's right there - it's the only bolt which has "ATF" embossed on it :)
 
#15 ·
Turkey Baster

I pulled the bulb off of my wife's turkey baster and put the tip of the plastic tube in the dipstick hole. Fits perfect. The mouth of the turkey baster tube is plenty big enough to put a funnel in and fill er' up. Pretty crude but effective.

Also, it's been about a month on the castrol ATF and the van shifts smooth and feels good.

edit: The baster was not returned to the kitchen for any food usage. Just wanted to clear that up. I keep it on my work bench with my other oil changing tools.
 
#16 ·
ATF Fill Plug

Here is a picture of the ATF fill plug. It is right in the center of the photo and located almost directly below the brake fluid reservoir. It does say ATF right on it. I believe it is 17mm

The only reason I chose to fill through the atf dipstick is because it was already open and right there. I was hesitant without a ratchet extension to loosen that bolt way down in the engine compartment. Both ways work fine, just take your time and try not to spill the new fluid on your engine.

Good luck

]


Here is another photo with lots of info that might help. Thanks nwf_snake
 
#17 ·
Note that some transmissions(circa 1999-2004) will have had the recall work done, meaning that the fill hole will have been taken up by some other piping and stuff, and in that case the recall instructions state you should fill via the dipstick hole.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Just curious what everyone's thoughts about this YouTube video are. The fellow offers what I thought was an innovative idea for the process - don't recall seeing this while surfing through various threads on the subject here.

YouTube video on a different ATF flush technique

Basically, he drains via the drain bolt then refills with ATF. Then, he hooks a temporary hose to the ATF supply line & directs it to a waste container. He then starts the car and, as the ATF is draining via the supply line, adds new fluid. Once the fluid coming out of the supply line runs clean, he stops the car & tops off the ATF.

Sounds like full removal of the fluid, including that difficult-to-reach bit in the torque converter, is possible with this method.

As an aside, his car's an Accord & the manual states that the transmission may be temporarily filled with Dexron III. His plan is to flush the old ATF fluid out with Dexron III for half a day, then repeat the flush procedure with Honda fluid. The Dexron III is being used simply because it's cheaper. Now, this seems a purist's approach - the 'flushing for half a day' seems a bit of overkill. To me, if his method is generally valid, simply doing the full drain and replacement of old Honda fluid with new Honda fluid would seem sufficient.

I just thought I'd run this up the flagpole to see what the general opinion was on the idea.
 
#19 ·
i have seen several questions as to how long to run the car between drain and fills while doing a full flush. here's what i did to ensure a full flush. it was more a "do it when i have the time" procedure.
after i did my first drain with a clean up on the magnet, i filled the trans back up and ran it for a couple of days back and forth to work. when i had the time again, i drained and filled with another magnet clean up(much less debris on the magnet).
i continued this method of drain and fills and drive until i was done and the magnet when i was done was very clean on the last drain.
like i said, it was a more out of my own convenience maintenance procedure than anything, but if you think about it, i probably got a great dilution of new and old trans fluid than a one day procedure would have.

MO
pete
 
#22 ·
I used the method that was posted by dntboles previously. It was fine for the first flush but the second time (need flush twice based on the instructions) causes my ABS, TCS, BRAKE and Check Engine light all came on. I have disconnected battery for now to see if it will erase all error messages.
 
#24 ·
The original 5 speed (2002-2006) had a filter that was not deemed "serviceable" by the dealer, but could be accessed and changed if one was reasonably motivated to do so. The 2007+ 5 speed was redesigned and closely related to the heavier transmission developed for the Ridgeline and Pilot for greater towing capacity, but the filter was further internalized and is not accessible without cracking open the case. It's essentially designed to do it's job for a period of time before eventually clogging and simply bypassing which pretty much all transmission and oil filters are designed to do to avoid fluid starving if the filter gets clogged. Some here have opted to install an "inline" filter such as Magnefine to get a functioning filter, so that's an option. Most here, once they are aware and tuned in, are just doing regular fluid changes. Valvoline Maxlife fluid (full synthetic) is a popular option vs OEM fluid which is now DW-1 because of it's ease of purchase at most Walmart stores in a 4 qt jug for ~$18 or $4.50 a qt vs typically $10 a qt for DW-1. Full synthetic for 1/2 the price of DW-1 seems like a win-win and I have been using it for almost 100K miles in my '07.
 
#25 ·
Add to that...

Automatics that I owned prior to the Ody had a removeable pan, inside which was the one and only filter. It was always replaced whenever the ATF was replaced.

Honda automatics are different in that they have no pan, just a case. The main filtration is sealed inside the case. The external filter that some years had was just a secondary filter. In addition, it had no specified factory service interval. In fact, most dealers didn't even know it existed.

Just to say, I certainly understand your confusion about the ghost-like ATF filter.

Dave
 
#26 ·
Getting ready to change my tranny fluid myself on my 06' Oddy. I have read through many of your threads here and I had a question about this procedure. As I understand it, the tranny holds 3.3 quarts of fluid. So all I should do is drain, clean the plug and fill back up with 3.3 quarts, correct? The reason I ask is I had read in a thread that when you drain the fluid you may not get all of it out so I was just curious about the capacity after a drain.

Also, I bought the Castrol ATF, compatible with Honda ATF-Z1 fluid. I know that is a hot topic here too.

Thanks for any input.
 
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