Transmission Fluid Change
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Thread: Transmission Fluid Change

  1. #1
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    Transmission Fluid Change

    Getting ready to change my tranny fluid myself on my 06' Oddy. I have read through many of your threads here and I had a question about this procedure. As I understand it, the tranny holds 3.3 quarts of fluid. So all I should do is drain, clean the plug and fill back up with 3.3 quarts, correct? The reason I ask is I had read in a thread that when you drain the fluid you may not get all of it out so I was just curious about the capacity after a drain.

    Also, I bought the Castrol ATF, compatible with Honda ATF-Z1 fluid. I know that is a hot topic here too.

    Thanks for any input.
    John 14:6

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  3. #2
    Registered User William Wiles's Avatar
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    The transmission and torque cinverter hold about 7-8 quarts. When you grain it only drains about 3.4 quarts. If you want to chenge most of it you have to do 3 or 4 drain and fills. The normal service omly does a drain and fill which is enough to refresh rhe fluid unless it is abnormally dark or burnt. By then you already have damage in the transmission.
    2004 EX Odyssey.
    All posts made by me are in reference to the gen 2 Odyssey.

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    thanks

    So I should do this 3 or 4 times in order to completely flush the system?? Ok, can you tell me how many miles between changes?

    Thanks again.
    John 14:6

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  6. #4
    DrD
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    Re: thanks

    Originally posted by cid03
    So I should do this 3 or 4 times in order to completely flush the system??
    Well - that's the current Honda recommended procedure - doesn't get everything, but it gets most of it! (between changes it's not so much a matter of miles between them, but rather making sure that the transmission has run through all of the gears - I usually do one change a weekend for 3 or 4 weeks)

  7. #5
    Registered User dntboles's Avatar
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    From Jan 08 Honda Service News at http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/A080100.PDF

    Check Out the Latest Word on A/T Flushing
    Currently Applies To: General Information
    Some A/T repair procedures call for flushing the trans using Honda Genuine ATF-Z1 (and no substitutes). Problem is, where do you find the info to do that? It’s not listed in the S/Ms, and if you do an ISIS search, you’ll find a few ServiceNews articles on this subject, but they’re rather dated, and none of them say the same thing. Even the most recent one (see “Revised A/T Flushing Procedure” in the December ’00 issue) still mentions that old work horse—the PGM Tester—which we stopped supporting when the HDS first came on the scene.
    NOTE: The term “flushing” refers to repeatedly draining and refilling the trans with Honda Genuine ATF-Z1. Don’t confuse it with aftermarket flush systems. American Honda still strongly recommends that you avoid using them on any Honda vehicle.
    The original procedure was written for simpler A/Ts that readily upshifted when you ran the vehicle on a lift. But A/Ts have come a long way since then, and most of the newer ones balk at shifting past 2nd gear when on a lift, unless you work the shift lever a certain way.
    In light of all this, we thought it was high time that the A/T flushing procedure got a facelift. So here’s the latest word on flushing that works for all A/Ts:
    1. Set the parking brake, and raise the vehicle on a lift.
    2. Drain the trans, and refill it with Honda Genuine ATF-Z1. Refer to the applicable S/M or to ISIS for details.
    3. Start the engine, shift into Drive, and release the parking brake.
    4. Push down on the accelerator pedal to raise the vehicle speed to 2,500 rpm.
    • If the trans shifts past 2nd gear, go to step 5.
    • If the trans won’t shift past 2nd gear, keep the engine speed at 2,500 rpm and shift from Drive to Neutral and back to Drive. Then go to step 5.
    5. Make sure that the trans shifts through all the forward gears and goes into torque converter lockup.
    6. Let off the accelerator pedal, and press the brake pedal to drop the vehicle speed to zero. Shift into Reverse and then into Neutral.
    7. Shift into Drive, and repeat steps 4 thru 6 four more times.
    8. Set the parking brake, and repeat steps 2 thru 6 two more times.
    9. Drain the trans, and reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
    10. Refill the A/T with ATF-Z1.
    Dave
    07 Slate Green Metallic EX-L RES
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    how about a 99 ody i heard no filter so is the procedure the same
    fill and drain three times within a week say?

  9. #7
    Registered User faithfultojc's Avatar
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    i have a question.

    When Honda replaced Torque Converter, do they replaced the tranny oil as well? (I think so)
    2006 EX-L Slate Green/Olive (traded)

    2007 Toyota Yaris (My DB)
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  10. #8
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    Originally posted by faithfultojc
    i have a question.

    When Honda replaced Torque Converter, do they replaced the tranny oil as well? (I think so)
    I would hope so!!
    2002 Odyssey EX Fern (Granite) Green
    Honda hood protector, stainless steel flex brake lines, Honda block heater, AC condenser screen, Zymol wax
    151,000 miles/243,000 kilometres; original transmission; Amsoil MV ATF since 79,000 miles/127,000 kilometres; Magnefine aux ATF filter; Honda aux ATF cooler; 19 drain and fills

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    My turn to change the ATF it myself.

    Thanks in advance to all the ealier posters on this DIY job.

    My belovid 2006 EXL is currently being filled up with 3.3 quarts of new honda ATF fluid. She is at 60,000 miles and getting a simple drain/fill. First drain/fill was at 35,000 mi by the dealer.

    To recap: I slid her up on ramps just to loosen the drain bolt (See rubber mallet in the pic). I then backed it down and removed the plug by hand. I did spill some on the floor because my catch pan was too high to be in place when removing the plug. I cleaned off a fair bit of metal shavings from the magnet ( wifey was impressed ).

    I guess the tricky part was finding the easiest way to add fluid through the dipstick. Eventually I used .81 cents worth of Lowes tubing and a 12-in-1 spout from walmart ($2) to size it down. I did use a little tape on the dipstick end of the tubing to make a better seal.

    Anyway, it's a slow fill (5 min per quart) but what is the rush. I have plenty of things to do in the garage while it's filling.

    Thanks again everyone. It is very rewarding to be able to change oil, ATF, fluid, brakes and rotors on my own time. Next will be to bleed the brakes. I don't think that has been done yet at all .
    2006 EXL-RES NAV

  12. #10
    Registered User Laphroaig's Avatar
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    I putted the ATF bottle on one of my hot water radiator inside the home before filling the trans and it flowed much faster...

    Solar radiation should do the job too!
    2005 Odyssey EX-L
    2013 Impreza Premium

  13. #11
    DrD
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    Re: My turn to change the ATF it myself.

    Originally posted by rickwhyte
    I guess the tricky part was finding the easiest way to add fluid through the dipstick.
    I find it easier to fill through the fill plug on the top of the transmission - I have a funnel which ends in a long tube (it's made for transmissions - has a valve to open/close and everything - I've seen them at many part stores - think I got mine at autozone) - take the cap off, put the tube in, and fill 'er up - no spillage or anything.

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    Re: My turn to change the ATF it myself.

    Originally posted by rickwhyte
    ...snip... Next will be to bleed the brakes. I don't think that has been done yet at all .
    Good idea! Your 2006 is overdue - 3 years is the longest that brake fluid should be used.

    BTW, good job on the other maintenance. You sound satisfied and you saved a bundle of $$$ too.

    - Dave
    2002 Odyssey EX Fern (Granite) Green
    Honda hood protector, stainless steel flex brake lines, Honda block heater, AC condenser screen, Zymol wax
    151,000 miles/243,000 kilometres; original transmission; Amsoil MV ATF since 79,000 miles/127,000 kilometres; Magnefine aux ATF filter; Honda aux ATF cooler; 19 drain and fills

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    Re: Re: My turn to change the ATF it myself.

    Originally posted by DrD
    I find it easier to fill through the fill plug on the top of the transmission - I have a funnel which ends in a long tube (it's made for transmissions - has a valve to open/close and everything - I've seen them at many part stores - think I got mine at autozone) - take the cap off, put the tube in, and fill 'er up - no spillage or anything.

    I was thinking the same...as it would be pretty easy to fill using the fill plug. Problem is...I am not certain where the darn thing is???

    Anybody able to describe it...maybe by size??? Pics would be really GREAT too!

    Sorry for the hi-jack, but his is a topic I have been searching for...


    biz
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    2005 Honda Odyssey EX-L

  16. #14
    DrD
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    Re: Re: Re: My turn to change the ATF it myself.

    Originally posted by biz4two
    I was thinking the same...as it would be pretty easy to fill using the fill plug. Problem is...I am not certain where the darn thing is???
    I can take a pic later if need be, but if you look down the side of the air filter assembly to the top of the transmission housing (just to the left of the ABS controller) it's right there - it's the only bolt which has "ATF" embossed on it

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    Turkey Baster

    I pulled the bulb off of my wife's turkey baster and put the tip of the plastic tube in the dipstick hole. Fits perfect. The mouth of the turkey baster tube is plenty big enough to put a funnel in and fill er' up. Pretty crude but effective.

    Also, it's been about a month on the castrol ATF and the van shifts smooth and feels good.

    edit: The baster was not returned to the kitchen for any food usage. Just wanted to clear that up. I keep it on my work bench with my other oil changing tools.
    John 14:6

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