Drivers Side CV Boot leaking
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Thread: Drivers Side CV Boot leaking

  1. #1
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    Drivers Side CV Boot leaking

    While changing my engine oil I noticed a small smear of grease on the outside of my drivers side CV boot. I have no clicking or any noticeable symptoms of a failed CV joint. I went to 2 service garages and the first suggested they will only replace the complete shaft at $500.00 while the second stated they would drive the vehicle and if they felt there was no symptoms of a failed CV joint they would replace the boot only at $200.00 and if a new shaft was required it would be $400.00. Do these prices seem right? Do I have any other options? Is this a job to tackle without a hoist? Both prices do not include tax. The van is a 2002 with excessive miles on it, 462,000K.

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  3. #2
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    Those prices sound reasonable to me, depending on what parts would be used, and the diagnosis sounds reasonable. Grease is leaking. Eventually, the joint will wear. When it will wear and make noise is anyone's guess. With that many miles on it, you could do nothing and wait for it to wear and replace the axle at that point.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black-Totaled
    2012 VW Passat-Black
    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphonse View Post
    ... small smear of grease on the outside of my drivers side CV boot...
    I'd inspect further to try to figure out how bad the cut / tear / leak is. At some point, it gets to where CV grease is flung radially from the joint, making a huge mess. And there's still more grease to come at that point. So, you really might be able to drive it longer.

    These vans are getting so old and valueless that, especially if someone is not going to do a repair themselves, aiming to delay repairs is a financially sound approach. When possible, of course, which may or may not be the case here, depending on just how bad the cut is.

    I had a case where the dealer stabbed the outer boots on my 2011, trying to drum up some business. One stab was bad enough that I replaced the boot a year or so later after my hack repair (bike inner tube repair type stuff) did not work well enough. But the other side is still kicking that can down the road since it was a smaller cut. I have the new boot on the shelf so if I'm ever "in there" I'll just replace it.

    BTW my '99's CV axles are still completely original at 236k+ miles, although I have injected new grease in there a couple of times over the years.
    2011 Odyssey LX, 106k miles
    1999 Odyssey EX, 234k miles, original owner

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  6. #4
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    I have replaced the boot and the entire axle and they are both messy to deal with. Cleaning the sprayed grease or the grease inside the boot. Boot kits can be had for $25 for 2 on ebay. You need the $10 clamp pliers to finish the install. Shafts are about $50 -$80 each on AZ or online. If its early like your situation, I would do the boot its cheaper. This is if you diy.

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    Thanks for the advice, I agree with all of it. I did slide under the car again and cleaned a bit of grease off the boot. I did not want to damage it further so I didn't get a clear look at the damage that appears to be right in the seam of the boot. There is no grease on any adjacent surfaces so I believe not much has come out. I sure haven't seen any hacks that I believe would hold so I will pass on that idea. I will wait till something forces my hand and deal with it then. I see new Cardone axles on Amazon.ca for 79$, seems like a good price if I need one.

  8. #6
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    With the mileage on your vehicle the Cardone axle is probably OK. Just beware, though, that the quality on those is extremely low. One of the last ones I installed in a Hyundai actually broke just 6 months after installing. I've had them not fit, have stiff joints, and/or damaged threads or splines. I recommend genuine Honda axles if you want a smooth, easy job, and if you want it to last more than a year or two.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black-Totaled
    2012 VW Passat-Black
    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

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    Agree, this sounds normal. This past Winter I replaced both C/V axles on my '02. Passenger side was split, driver was good - but as they are both original @ 200,000+ I just did the both.

    I purchased mine from the Dealer @ $205/each. I also replaced both inner/outer tie rods, since I was in there.
    2002 EX-L Navi - Starlight Silver - 227,000-miles (11/01 build) - mostly stock.

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    Thanks again for the parts advice. When and if this needs to be done I will use genuine Honda parts.

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    The genuine Honda's are great - I'm happy with how well mine have lasted on my '99. And it's partly why I feel better doing the messy job of replacing a boot and keeping the original axle and joints going, rather than swapping in a new cheap axle (just amazing how little they cost).

    But at your mileage, 462k miles (and even if that's actually kms), I wonder if the cost of new Genuine Honda axles will cost more than the car would be worth following the repair. Hopefully you won't need to figure that one out for a while, if ever.
    2011 Odyssey LX, 106k miles
    1999 Odyssey EX, 234k miles, original owner

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    Oops, your right skewel, it is km's not miles. I put a lower control arm in about 4yrs back and contemplated one off amazon, I ended up going to the dealer and I'm glad I did. With John's advice it did'nt take long for me to agree that for this job OEM is a no brainer, I would be sooo,,shall I say irate if I couldn't get an after market to slide into place, I know this job will be a real pain and I sure as hell don't want to do it twice. I guess I justify the cost of the parts with the savings of me doing the labour. BTW, I've been saying 1 or 2 years for about 5 years now, the van is too handy, and too reliable to let go. The quality and stories I read about the newer vehicles scare me.

  13. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphonse View Post
    Oops, your right skewel, it is km's not miles. I put a lower control arm in about 4yrs back and contemplated one off amazon, I ended up going to the dealer and I'm glad I did. With John's advice it did'nt take long for me to agree that for this job OEM is a no brainer, I would be sooo,,shall I say irate if I couldn't get an after market to slide into place, I know this job will be a real pain and I sure as hell don't want to do it twice. I guess I justify the cost of the parts with the savings of me doing the labour. BTW, I've been saying 1 or 2 years for about 5 years now, the van is too handy, and too reliable to let go. The quality and stories I read about the newer vehicles scare me.
    LOL yes. When we got our 2011 back in 2013, we almost immediately cleaned up the '99 and prepared to sell it. Then realized it's pretty cheap to own, and serves a good purpose for mostly hauling stuff on periodic trips vs. the 2011 as my wife's daily driver. And of course what I could sell it for (not much, even though it is great) factors into the analysis too.

    I did not realize you'd be doing it yourself - yes that helps a lot. Good luck.
    2011 Odyssey LX, 106k miles
    1999 Odyssey EX, 234k miles, original owner

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    Called the dealer today for a price on a driver's side CV axle, apparently there is only 2 in the country, $750.00ea,,, NOTTTT! still, thanks for the advice.

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    It's easy to replace the boot. You can even buy a tool on ebay to pull the outer CV joint off the shaft. Without the need to remove the wholedrive shaft from the car. Search for 'cv joint removal tool'. I have not used one and don't know if it will fit the odyssey. You will have to measure before you buy.

  16. #14
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    If you've gotten to the point where you can pull the outer joint off the shaft it only takes another 30 seconds to pop the axle out of the trans and conveniently work on it on the bench.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
    2011 VW Jetta SE-Black-Totaled
    2012 VW Passat-Black
    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
    1998 Nissan 200SX SE-Blue

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    On my Ody I tried to pull the left axle out of the trans and it won't pop out. I've done this many times on the other brand of cars I work on. So I know how to do it. But what do you do when it won't come out of the trans? I'm afraid of damaging something.

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