(solved) Hood won't close and latch
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Thread: (solved) Hood won't close and latch

  1. #1
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    (solved) Hood won't close and latch

    I wasted a lot of time tracking this one down, so I figured I'd share to save some other some grief.

    I tried oiling it. I tried adjusting it, I removed it and cleaned it. I slammed it hard, I slammed it soft. I pushed down and the right and on the left, nothing would work. I finally discovered the little latch would not going back to the right position. Here are some pictures of bad and good.

    You can push this down with a key or a screw driver, and then the hood will close correctly. You don't even need to slam it.

    Here's a close up of the hood latching mechanism. Simply push down on the piece of metal the arrow is pointing at.




    Here's a picture with it pushed down. The WD40 had no impact


    Also worth noting it's good to draw an arrow like I did in pencil for the spouse or mechanic.

    (edited-added new images when imageshack lost the old ones)
    Last edited by mitchd123; 11-10-2009 at 08:48 AM.

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  3. #2
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    Thanks for the info. I'm sure it will save others some time and a headhache.
    2004 ody ES with RSE 8 12v and 1100watts worth of power.

  4. #3
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    Angry hood wont latch

    I just had this happen after I opened the hood to check the tranny fluid color and the oil. I went to close it and it will not latch. Are there pictures of what to push down to get it latched. It seems like the internal release is pretty loose right now.

    Thanks - I love this forum!!
    It taught me to change the tranny fluid and save money from the dealer charges.
    There are some Ody GURUS on here.

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  6. #4
    Registered User joe_odyssey's Avatar
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    having similar problem, can you repost pics?
    joe_odyssey
    Just bought -----> 2007 Odyssey EX - silver
    '07 Volvo XC-90 - Sapphire Black/leather (AWD-Luxury)
    Sold ----> '02 ODY- EX Starlight Silver/New Tranny @ 72,000 km REBUILT @ 282,000 (now @ 304,000)
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  7. #5
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    Its the hood release cable: I have the same issue and removed the hood latch and the spring return lever works fine. The cable doesn't move freely, I think after time it develops a kink or a sharp bend that cannot overcome the resistance even with return spring tension on the hood lever. The hood release cable takes quite and aggressive curve upward from the interior release lever and each time I pull on the cable I can hear it binding in is sheathing.
    Or the sheathing has worn and the cable itself is rubbing and binding somewhere.

  8. #6
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    Yep - I had that happen on my 2004 ody and the screwdriver worked great. I actually had a guy at the dealer tell me that when I slowly drove and brought it in. It was fast cost free fix

  9. #7
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    This AM the hood failed to latch on my 2002. I tried everything and failed to get the hood latched. After much frustration, I finally found the simple solution in the post by mitchd123 in July 2007. Thanks. Once again the Odyssey Forum saves the day.

  10. #8
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    One more guy saved by mitchd123 !! After spending the day replacing my headlight assemblies, the hood wouldn't stay shut, so I came here and wow am I glad !! Thanks mitchd123 and odyclub. BTW, there is a very good video on youtube.com showing how to replace headlight assemblies. It's by a1auto.com and their assemblies are inexpensive.

  11. #9
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    Way too easy. Now what am I gonna do with the rest of the day?

  12. #10
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    Thank you thank you thank you!

  13. #11
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    Thank you as well, I'm having this issue periodically and was going to tear it apart....

  14. #12
    Registered User funtown89's Avatar
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    If you take that radiator cover panel off, it makes it more easy to see and mess with the little arm that gets rusty and dry and stuck... follow the cable to the end, there is a little arm, needs to go back towards passenger side.. or the hood won't latch. Lube and time is all this fix needs.
    2000 Odyssey EX Granite Green Metallic 229,000 Original TransHidden Content
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  15. #13
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    Folks, so I finally got around to replacing the hood latch cable after 3 years later. OMG, WHAT a PITA replacing the cable is! My advise is to keep pushing the lever.

    Purchased a Honda cable on ebay for $13 dollars. Be careful there are different ones....get the right one for your year. If you are crazy enough to replace the cable...the hood side is easy. I removed the latch, and one clip near the radiator, and taped a thin nylon rope to the end of the cable. Inside the vehicle I removed the plastic panel covering the hood pull. I removed the hood pull. The cable is routed behind all the wires. When you finally are able to work the cable free, it goes way up through the firewall into the left fender. I have long arms and I had my arm and shoulder buried up under the dash. If you have short arms forget it. I thought I could just pull the old cable through, and use the rope to pull the new one through....WRONG! Honda was nice enough to put two clips inside the fender compartment. You have to at least partially remove the black plastic splash guard above the tire to access the fender area. Doing this you will break some of the plastic body retaining clips because they are normally stuffed full of sand and road grime. So pick up some 3/8 body retaining clips before you start the job. Don't get clips with wide heads or they will extend beyond the fender line. Inside the fender there are two clips which hold the cable housing in place. These have to be removed from the cable, and then you can pull the old cable and rope into the car. Again these need to be removed from the cable, not just unclipped from the fender. Because of the rubber firewall shield on the cable, you want to pull the rope from the hood side, and feed the cable from the interior back into the fender compartment. BUT, you have to remove the two plastic clips from the new cable first. There's a small hole in the clips in which you can insert a small flat head screwdriver to release the clip from the cable. Feed the wire through the fender compartment and get the job all done before you re-attach these two plastic clips. What a PITA! What should have been a 20 minute job took me like 120. My advise to you is ....put a bigger spring on the hood latch, and keep pushing the lever. With a bigger spring I was able to push mine down by hand.

  16. #14
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    Did you find where the old cable was binding up? Is it a kink or what? What's your feel on the odds of a kinked one eventually breaking or rusting through?

    I've been using the screwdriver trick for a year and a half, but worry about what I'd do if the stupid cable actually broke while the hood is closed/latched.
    2012 EX (hers) 03 LX (Gone - sniff!)
    2013 Chevy Cruze Eco (stick!) commuting average 40mpg
    2010 Beetle 2.5 slushbox (VW: midget-contortionist mechanics wanted!)

  17. #15
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    Ok guys I carefully dissected the old cable. The outside jacket and cable seemed to be in perfect shape, no kinks anywhere. I could not determine where it was binding, so I cut the cable in half with a grinder to see if it was top or bottom half. I assumed there was some sort of corrosion inside the jacket.

    Eventually I determined the bind was in the last two inches of the cable where it attaches to the hood latch in the engine compartment. At the end of the jacket near the hood latch there's a plastic clip on the end of the jacket. This plastic clip is secured with a metal band around it to hold it to the cable jacket. It almost seemed like this metal belt was too tight and causing the cable to bind. I was really surprised because I had put a ton of WD-40 on the cable assuming the bind was somewhere inside the fender...so I know I got this last 2 inches with the WD40. I tried carefully grinding the metal belt band off....but in the process it melted and broke the plastic clip.

    The good news for everyone else is there was absolutely no corrosion or fraying anywhere along the cable. It was in perfect shape, so the chances of it snapping are non-existant. The bind was in the last 1-2 inches of the cable right where it meets the hood latch.

    Advice....keep pushing the lever, and don't waste your time trying to lube the cable.

    If someone's really losing sleep over this issue (which they shouldn't)...I suggest they focus on removing the band from the plastic clip slowly as not to overheat the plastic. A dremel with a thin grinding wheel, and a spray bottle to keep it cool should allow the removal of the metal band. Then careful inspection of the end of the cable jacket to see if it's compressed or bent. You can remove the cable from the hood latch pull inside the vehicle pretty easily to freely move the cable back and forth.

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