My new Rear Sway Bar. - Page 2
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Thread: My new Rear Sway Bar.

  1. #16
    Registered User Aardvaark's Avatar
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    Looking at pictures of 2011- on Odyssey rear suspension it doesn't look any harder to do then my 2nd gen was. Looks like the hole in the center of the lower spring pocket is made to order
    for a RSB bracket attachment. And the floor of the rear seat well looks about the same as mine. Probably the same Ford Ranger front bar could be used. Just takes somebody handy
    with tools and some simple fabrication with flat steel bars from the hardware store. Jmo.
    ---------------------------------------------
    '02 Ody EX-L
    "Aardvaark" Version II. Rear anti-sway bar.
    Astrostart 903 remote starter.
    "Aardvaark" reverse vent window mod.
    Hayden 677 ATF cooler.
    Cold weather reverse clunk tranny.
    Running happy on 5W30.

    1975 Opel Manta.

    1963 Ford Thunderbird Landau Coupe. Factory a/c.
    Running happy on 10W40.

    '87 Honda HR214SXA mower (No mods).
    '04 Honda HS520A snow blower (No mods).

    SCCA member since 1973.

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  3. #17
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    Rear Sway bar

    Quote Originally Posted by Aardvaark View Post
    After much crawling on the ground under promising vehicles I bought the Ranger bar (Hollander interchange number 524-00310 solid version) off of ebay and it included the stock Ford bushings Poly in good condition and brackets for less the $50 delivered. I could have gotten one for $35 plus state tax about 30 miles away but decided to get it off of ebay since time wasn't an issue. Several were available. Everything else came from the Hardware Departments.

    If you do decide to try the rear bar e-mail me and I'll give you the dimensions of my fairly easy to make clamp on control arm brackets and any other info you want for the 1999-2004 Odys.

    Decided to fab up some washer plates for the well floor just to be safe although most of the force is torsional in the bar some is exerted onto the floor. Pic:

    AWESOME job, Aardvark!! Why did you put the end of the swaybar below the suspension attachment? I would think above the attachment would give a lot better ground clearance.


    I have been playing with swaybars myself for years, but could not find any for our 2004 Ody EX. So I went a different direction:

    My son & I put on the H&R lowering springs all the way around, and KYB shocks/struts. With aftermarket camber correctors on front and back. 1 & 1/4 front, 1 & 1/2 rear lowering, I think.

    The springs do a terrific job, but the KYBs are NO match for the H&R front springs. It is WAY too bouncy now, but great in the corners! No jounce control at all, but OK on rebound. I have poly bushings for the front swaybar, but it looks like a tough job to change 'em!

    Does anybody know of alternate struts to the KYB's? There used to be some available in the US. I used to be able to find air shocks for anything, but have had no luck in that direction either.

  4. #18
    Registered User 0dyfamily's Avatar
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    Look at the pic with the exhaust pipe. I think he was shooting for a little more clearance on the pipe to keep the sway bar from contacting it when the right rear suspension was compressed to the bump stop.

    OF

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  6. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0dyfamily View Post
    Look at the pic with the exhaust pipe. I think he was shooting for a little more clearance on the pipe to keep the sway bar from contacting it when the right rear suspension was compressed to the bump stop.

    OF
    The only problem I see with his installation is the front of the sway bar sticking down.

    Years ago I had Addco rear sway bar brackets ripped out of the "frame rails" on a 1972 Capri, just on a steep driveway. I bent the sway bar in the middle with a torch, and raised the brackets up higher into the (reinforced by welding) "frame rails".

  7. #20
    Registered User Aardvaark's Avatar
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    Got to admit I built this rsb installation as I went without much pre-planning. It no doubt could be improved upon but that said I've had no issues in several thousand miles with any of it.
    No dragging the ground or parts coming loose. In fact I hardly think about it being back there until a ramp or tight corner comes up at speed.

    As pointed out by Odyfamily. The placement was to clear the stock tail pipe and other components under full suspension travel of my '02, it being completely stock.
    The pics in post #8 are the final placement of fasteners. If the simple 15 degree bent I used was more of an offset to raise the bottom clamp eyelets more, ground clearance would be
    possible but that would have required much more effort in fabrication perhaps even some welding.
    Last edited by Aardvaark; 02-17-2015 at 12:58 PM.
    ---------------------------------------------
    '02 Ody EX-L
    "Aardvaark" Version II. Rear anti-sway bar.
    Astrostart 903 remote starter.
    "Aardvaark" reverse vent window mod.
    Hayden 677 ATF cooler.
    Cold weather reverse clunk tranny.
    Running happy on 5W30.

    1975 Opel Manta.

    1963 Ford Thunderbird Landau Coupe. Factory a/c.
    Running happy on 10W40.

    '87 Honda HR214SXA mower (No mods).
    '04 Honda HS520A snow blower (No mods).

    SCCA member since 1973.

  8. #21
    Registered User Aardvaark's Avatar
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    Oops. Posted the incorrect years for the Ranger 2wd pickup
    front bar. 1998 to 2012 are correct along with the Mazda 2000 2wd pickups of the same years.

  9. #22
    Registered User 0dyfamily's Avatar
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    Aardvark, I hope you're still on the forums. I experimented with an IFS bar off a 2006 Toyota Tundra, but could not make it work. I got rid of it, then found out from some local rodders that I could have heated and bent the ends to suit my needs

    Well, I have one of these Chassis Engineering SB-0050R bars on its way to my place:



    It's over 48" wide with 8-3/4" legs. I still may have to heat it and bend the legs outboard to get 52" to 53", which would then be perfect for a mount and end links just outboard of the springs. Also, it will help exhaust pipe clearance.

    This is the widest bar I could find without having a custom shop cold form one for me ($$$).

    It will take me a while to have somebody fab the LCA mounts for me, but when I get this mounted, I'll post pics.

    OF

  10. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0dyfamily View Post
    Aardvark, I hope you're still on the forums. I experimented with an IFS bar off a 2006 Toyota Tundra, but could not make it work. I got rid of it, then found out from some local rodders that I could have heated and bent the ends to suit my needs

    Well, I have one of these Chassis Engineering SB-0050R bars on its way to my place:



    It's over 48" wide with 8-3/4" legs. I still may have to heat it and bend the legs outboard to get 52" to 53", which would then be perfect for a mount and end links just outboard of the springs. Also, it will help exhaust pipe clearance.

    This is the widest bar I could find without having a custom shop cold form one for me ($$$).

    It will take me a while to have somebody fab the LCA mounts for me, but when I get this mounted, I'll post pics.

    OF
    I look forward to hearing how it goes. When looking around, did you check out the rear sway bar from a Pilot or MDX? I always thought that they might be a good solution given chassis similarities.

  11. #24
    Registered User 0dyfamily's Avatar
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    Man, I did not think of that...and it's been mentioned a number of times on these forums.

    I guess I'll have to crawl under some more cars in the local college parking lot!

    OF

  12. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0dyfamily View Post
    Man, I did not think of that...and it's been mentioned a number of times on these forums.

    I guess I'll have to crawl under some more cars in the local college parking lot!

    OF
    Take a look at the lower control arms too. Parts drawings look similar, but I'm not sure of the dimensions. This would give you a mounting point for the sway bars.

  13. #26
    Registered User 0dyfamily's Avatar
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    Don't laugh, but I've had a big ol' tape measure in my van for the last few months. Crawling under somebody else's truck is only half the effort; I have to be able to measure the end-to-end distance and the "legs" of the bar in question.

    Not all Ody clubbers are as nutty as me, but man, after seeing Aardvark make it happen, I want one, too.

    OF

  14. #27
    Registered User Aardvaark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0dyfamily View Post
    Aardvark, I hope you're still on the forums. I experimented with an IFS bar off a 2006 Toyota Tundra, but could not make it work. I got rid of it, then found out from some local rodders that I could have heated and bent the ends to suit my needs

    Well, I have one of these Chassis Engineering SB-0050R bars on its way to my place:



    It's over 48" wide with 8-3/4" legs. I still may have to heat it and bend the legs outboard to get 52" to 53", which would then be perfect for a mount and end links just outboard of the springs. Also, it will help exhaust pipe clearance.

    This is the widest bar I could find without having a custom shop cold form one for me ($$$).

    It will take me a while to have somebody fab the LCA mounts for me, but when I get this mounted, I'll post pics.

    OF
    I'm still checking the forums from time to time.
    Good to see I've inspired others to try a rsb.
    My Ranger bar still works great with no issues.
    After many miles and many ramps I just wish it could be even stiffer. These Odys are really front heavy understeerers.
    But I'm still on stock wheels and Goodyear Tripple Treads and no other suspension mods.
    Last edited by Aardvaark; 03-10-2016 at 06:18 AM.
    ---------------------------------------------
    '02 Ody EX-L
    "Aardvaark" Version II. Rear anti-sway bar.
    Astrostart 903 remote starter.
    "Aardvaark" reverse vent window mod.
    Hayden 677 ATF cooler.
    Cold weather reverse clunk tranny.
    Running happy on 5W30.

    1975 Opel Manta.

    1963 Ford Thunderbird Landau Coupe. Factory a/c.
    Running happy on 10W40.

    '87 Honda HR214SXA mower (No mods).
    '04 Honda HS520A snow blower (No mods).

    SCCA member since 1973.

  15. #28
    Registered User Aardvaark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0dyfamily View Post
    Man, I did not think of that...and it's been mentioned a number of times on these forums.

    I guess I'll have to crawl under some more cars in the local college parking lot!

    OF
    I did check out the mdx pilot bars early on.
    Too much work to mount and too spindley according to the math imo.
    ---------------------------------------------
    '02 Ody EX-L
    "Aardvaark" Version II. Rear anti-sway bar.
    Astrostart 903 remote starter.
    "Aardvaark" reverse vent window mod.
    Hayden 677 ATF cooler.
    Cold weather reverse clunk tranny.
    Running happy on 5W30.

    1975 Opel Manta.

    1963 Ford Thunderbird Landau Coupe. Factory a/c.
    Running happy on 10W40.

    '87 Honda HR214SXA mower (No mods).
    '04 Honda HS520A snow blower (No mods).

    SCCA member since 1973.

  16. #29
    Registered User Aardvaark's Avatar
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    Nov 2001
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
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    Lol! Been there, done that in the planning stages on the ground at car dealer lots after hours.
    Only the Ranger front bar and Chevy S10 and Blazer
    front bars looked promising. The Ranger bar looked the best.
    ---------------------------------------------
    '02 Ody EX-L
    "Aardvaark" Version II. Rear anti-sway bar.
    Astrostart 903 remote starter.
    "Aardvaark" reverse vent window mod.
    Hayden 677 ATF cooler.
    Cold weather reverse clunk tranny.
    Running happy on 5W30.

    1975 Opel Manta.

    1963 Ford Thunderbird Landau Coupe. Factory a/c.
    Running happy on 10W40.

    '87 Honda HR214SXA mower (No mods).
    '04 Honda HS520A snow blower (No mods).

    SCCA member since 1973.

  17. #30
    Registered User 0dyfamily's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    SW OK on the Red River
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    7,247
    Aardvark,amn, I'm glad you're still on the forums.

    Right now, the local hot rod shop (we really do have one) is pretty busy with a few restoration projects, but when he gets some time, we'll chuck the bar into his monster vise, heat it up (oxyacetylene torch, rosebud tip) and bend it out about 15 degrees on each side to get about 52 degrees of width out of it..

    Once that's done, a friend at work with a pretty hefty plasma cutter will cut my attachments from 1/4" or 5/16" steel plate. Hopefully, same guy will be able to weld it to the top of each LCA...or I'm going to have to learn how to TIG weld.

    Been busy with soooo many other things (like helping son with Eagle Scout project), that this fun job has escaped by grasp.

    OF

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