Gen 3 Timing Belt Write Up is Here! - Page 31
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Thread: Gen 3 Timing Belt Write Up is Here!

  1. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxud View Post
    Camshafts have to be aligned as following.
    Front cam - cylinder 1 mark 12 OC aligned with the mark
    Rear cam - there is only one mark, again aligned at 12 oc
    crank - there is a mark on the small cogged crank pulley that is also at 12 OC and aligns with mark on the engine.
    The secondary mark is on the big outer harmonic balancer pulley. Its just a little notch in the back outer rim of the pulley and it aligns to the plastic lower timing
    belt cover with a triangular mark. If you aligned as above then I think your timing is good.
    Did you touch the crankshaft sensor?
    Did you replace plugs at the same time? Is all good there, plugs installed and torqued. Coils installed and connected?

    Try giving it some gas while starting, you can crank longer than that (as long as your timing is good).
    Did it ever start after the service? Make sure battery terminals are on snug and they are clean.
    Maxud -
    The alignment you describe is what I did. Cams, CS inner, then pulley outer aligned after rotating.
    I didn't intentionally touch CS posn sensor. I did pull off Engine Idle Valve sensor which I removed again to re-aligned and that got me to this better(?) start. Replaced plugs, coils & PVC prior to this service within the month hoping it would smooth out the initial tap/ping.

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  3. #452
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    Maxud - as I am dominating this very good thread and want more eyes on my developing situation. I've opened my own thread:
    https://www.odyclub.com/forums/9-prob...ml#post1933297

    I opened her back up this morning and here's the alignment:
    Gen 3 Timing Belt Write Up is Here!-collage-2017-07-22.jpg
    Let's move to the other thread as John Clark & others are also there. Thanks so. I'm scratching my head at this point.

  4. #453
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    Changed it last weekend - took me 4 hours on Friday and whole Saturday.
    Thanks everyone for the sharing your experience and creating that really great guide.

    My two cents:
    - read guide don't try 1/2" for the crankshaft bolt - buy at least 3/4" you will save a day. after I brought 3/4 tools and heat bolt a little it was really easy to break.
    - if you're going to check all torques you will need something really good with range 0-60 and really small because space ex trimly limited. I had two different torque wrenches and most bolts were check just with my feelings.
    - for Canadians - I bought timing belt kit on amazon.com it cheaper on 100$ then buying it on amazon.ca from the same seller (taxes, shipping - all counted)

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  6. #454
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    I'm going in again to pull the TB in order to pull my Heads (bent valves) doing my TB replacement.

    The shop manual demonstrates using the Battery flange bolt to hold the tensioner during the process. My van has aftermarket battery tray assembly. Anyone know the size/thread for the OEM flange bolt so I can go find a substitute?

  7. #455
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    I forget what the battery hold down hook is supposed to do but you can just pull the tensioner off, put it in a vice and carefully, and slowly squeeze the piston back in and then put the pin back in it to hold it in. Then just put it back together as if it was new.
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  8. #456
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    I have only used that battery hook once, until I realized that I am changing the tensioner anyway and the whole effort was a waste of time.
    So the purpose of it is to push on tensioner pulley and hold tension in place, while swapping out timing belt.
    If you so inclined to use it, I can look up the thread for you tonight.
    Part number 31513-SM4-000, but I can tell you its a 10mm nut, so literally take any 10mm nut or bolt from the van and thats the pitch/thread size they use for it.

    Intake area has a bunch of these bolts.
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  9. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexD View Post
    - read guide don't try 1/2" for the crankshaft bolt - buy at least 3/4" you will save a day. after I brought 3/4 tools and heat bolt a little it was really easy to break.
    I second the 3/4 if you are not using impact tools. I used 1/2 breaker bar for the holder and 3/4 for the bolt with cheater pipe from Home Depot.

  10. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxud View Post
    I have only used that battery hook once, until I realized that I am changing the tensioner anyway and the whole effort was a waste of time. So the purpose of it is to push on tensioner pulley and hold tension in place, while swapping out timing belt. If you so inclined to use it, I can look up the thread for you tonight. Part number 31513-SM4-000, but I can tell you its a 10mm nut, so literally take any 10mm nut or bolt from the van and thats the pitch/thread size they use for it. Intake area has a bunch of these bolts.
    Thanks JC & Maxud - I found a metric 6x1.00 around 2 inches works.... why its needed - can you get the belt off if under tension? (rhetorical). My flange (battery) bolts had been changed and would not work. Still haven't found a machine shop to get to my heads within a month and for less than $400/head.

  11. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfatica View Post
    great post and pics

  12. #460
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    Did mine last weekend using this write up and the video from south main auto repair on youtube. For those with VCM the serpentine tensioner is a bit different, you don't release the pressure from the bearing bolt but instead from a bolt shape coming from the tensioner frame.
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  13. #461
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    Since this seems to be the timing belt service info repository I thought I might share a little from my experience last week.
    I took 7 days to do the job as I had a few other things to do on the van, and my age and health make me pretty slow and the place I had to do it only allowed a few hours in the early evenings. Under ideal conditions (but not being 21 again lol) would have started on a friday evening finished on sunday, prolly 16 hours. I have some experience with these things and was not lacking for tools. Its helpful to have assorted extensions, 6 and 12pt sockets in all 3 drive sizes, adaptors, several sizes of breaker bars, ratchet wrenches, bent long needle nose pliers and vise grips, etc.
    I bought a kd tools crank holder and a purpose designed 19mm socket off ebay. The socket did not fit inside the holder, took 3 hours on a bench grinder to rectify this. With cooling water. While this was obviously time consuming I believe I ended up with a more effective tool as the centrifigual force would be greater with the additional mass where it was.
    Whatever the effect the still original crank bolt zipped off in .5 seconds with a 20 yo craftsman 1/2" made in japan gun(also sold by I.R. in the day) (likely under)rated at 400ftlbs, powered by an equally vintage dewalt emglo hand carry compressor (4.5 [email protected]) Its a SoCal van with zero rust so that might be a factor.
    I used that gun for much of the disassembly of larger bolts, for all the smaller and limited access ones I used a harbor freight impacting air ratchet.
    https://m.harborfreight.com/38-in-pr....google.com%2F

    I bought that a couple of years ago, hadnt used it much now I consider it indispensible. There is no reaction, just get it on the fastener and get a finger on the trigger. Even a pinky. All the cam cover bolts zipped off in no time.

    The spark plugs while tedious were a piece of cake using John Clarks approach of two short extensions. Ease the socket in the hole with one on then attach the other. I had no problem torquing them to spec, with silver anti seize, with a harbor freight 1/4" drive clicker. The old ones at 129k were to say the least out of spec on gap, averaging over .050.

    However none of the parts I removed appeared to be in danger of immediate failure.

    I did have a broken motor mount. As I didnt have time to get one online I settled for an aftermarket one from OReillys. $48 in stock looks as good as the OEM.

    One thing of concern was a bearing on the serpentine belt tensioner. Had that unmistakeable sound of a dry bearing. Spins too easily, almost squeeks but doesnt, every few revolutions you feel a bit of roughness or rumbling. Using a grease needle I pumped both pulley bearings full of grease with no damage whatsoever to the seals. I think that should be a mandatory service to this assembly once off the car, there is no risk to the procedure I can think of.

    I used a torque wrench for every fastener for reassembly, however the old 3/8" and new 1/2" harbor freight units I had both came up faulty with no clicks. On each I detected this before stripping a fastener. The 1/4" size worked well as it has for 10 years. I used an alternate 1/2" drive torque wrench to complete and will return the others soon.

    The write up in this thread was perfect. As I have found before the FSM was essentially useless, except for torque specs. So many steps omitted.

    I used a paint pen to mark the camshaft, cam sprockets, block, and belt. The belt was marked on the precise tooth and I added F. and R to the marks on the cam. Transferred the marks virtually impossible to get wrong. My cams did not move until I wanted one to, which was the rear cam as I pulled the belt around. A slight tug on the breaker bar saw it want to jerk 1/5 turn or so to the right, I let it swing about 10 degrees, got the belt on the right tooth, and eased it back where it stayed.
    (As I understand, the crankshaft should only rotate clockwise but the cams can go backwards a bit with no harm)

    The thermostat was a bit of a pain, mostly getting the new one in position and starting the back bolt. I used a gates premium from rock auto with a honda oem gasket.

    For coolant, Xerex asian blue. Burping the system was a no brainer, far easier than the FSM suggests, because I filled it on jack stands nose up. Turn the back heater on and off, over fill the reservoir a bit, any air will rise to the top.

    The only "oh s***" moment of reassembly was getting the serpentine belt routing wrong and having to remove the two bolts on the engine mount after supporting the engine again. 10 minutes.

    I wore harbor freights $1.99 hardy pvc coated nylon gloves throughout. They are the best thing for mechanic work, buy them as small as you can get on (medium for me) they positively spank mechanix brand gloves for dexterity.

    Hope this helps.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gen 3 Timing Belt Write Up is Here!-20190401_033659_1555897038448.jpg   Gen 3 Timing Belt Write Up is Here!-image_11117_1555897728536.jpg  
    Last edited by Batvette; 04-21-2019 at 10:59 PM.

  14. #462
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  15. #463
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    The seller is from China even though the shipping is from the US. When something is too good to be true it usually is. Take a look at the negative feedback.
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  16. #464
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    Oh.. ok..

    My 2010 is 91K now. Planning to do the TB around 100k. Just like everyone, was planning to buy the RockAuto Aisin TKH002 kit, serpentine belt (Conti) and 2 Honda coolant. Also NGK spark plugs.

    Did anyone tried the ContiTech kit -> https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...444550&jsn=440 OR https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...444550&jsn=437 ?

    I think i used it in my VW Passat. Forgot.

    BTW, i found that i can rent the crank pulley holding tool and the 19mm socket at Autozone. No need to buy. May be people already knows it?

    Holding tool -> https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ool/420315_0_0
    19mm Socket -> https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...-honda/11632_0

  17. #465
    Registered User John Clark's Avatar
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    You still need a high power impact to use that socket. Also, be aware that it doesn't fit inside the holding tool so don't expect to use it like that.

    I only use the holding tool to torque the crank bolt.
    2008 Odyssey Touring-Silver
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    2002 GMC Sierra SLT LB Z71-Red
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