Brake upgrade is a success~ - Page 5
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Thread: Brake upgrade is a success~

  1. #61
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    To be honest, I never took out the spare tire yet, to see what it clears, but in general, most space saver rims are bigger in diameter than the main wheels the cars roll on. I should check someday, but the should be 17" or larger. I also have a spare, Ridgline space saver wheel/tire (upgraded to a full size for the truck)... so that might be thrown in the mix if needed.

    As for ABS lockup.. never had it lock up once! The ABS will not allow it since it will release it from locking.. thus, doing its job... however, we've never had the ABS kick in either~
    I do have 245 wide, performance rated tires, so I'm sure that helps too.

    My wife has already had several instances where the car in front of her stops suddenly (there was something in front of them, that no cars behind could see), and swears the brakes prevented an accident... I know I sound like a broken record... but serious, the brakes STOP the van w/o any effort. Just like it should. the original brakes were just scary... lots of sliding (weak brake power?), which lead to heavier brake pedal mashing... which leads to brakes overheating, which leads to brakes warping... which leads to replacing brakes again (cutting rotors is only a band-aid fix)...etc.

    I know it's not for everyone... but do it if you can. In my book, this is pretty cheap for a bigger brake upgrade... and all original Honda parts too. (well sort of.. I used aftermarket, oem spec rotors).

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  3. #62
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    Caliper springs/clips?

    I'm getting ready to do this upgrade tomorrow and I've got all my parts. I've done lots of brake work before but I've not seen these V shaped clips/springs that the Pilot caliper has. Can someone tell me what they are for or how to install them? There are two per caliper and are shown between the pads in this breakout:

    Part Detail

    Thanks

  4. #63
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    I found them; I'm using EBC yellowstuff pads but they have the spring holes so I'm good. Seems like they are on all the late model honda's. Thanks

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  6. #64
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    Yea. the spring clips go on the outside of the pads to help spread them.

  7. #65
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    Cool Success!

    Well, everything went great, smooth as silk! Thanks to those (joe422) who did the legwork to make this known. I went with EBC premium OEM rotors and yellowstuff pads and it was ball park $600 to make this van stop like Honda should have. We have a large family so the van is always full and you feel it in the braking.

    EBC wants 200 miles of driving like a grandma so I couldn't really test it, but I could feel premonitions of the good things in store after break-in. I think you said it perfectly Joe, it just stops like a normal car should. Not grabby, or touchy just stops with ease. I never realized the subconscious stress I felt trying to stop something that didn't want to every time. The pedal is slightly lower but it is hardly noticeable. If it bothers me there is a procedure in the shop manual for adjusting the pedal height by adjusting the booster rod length that might mitigate that a bit. Good times!

    Thanks!

    Jim


    245/55's on 18" wheels, H&R springs, airlift rear bladders, stainless brake lines, tow package, K&N, ATF cooler with remote filter, HID, LED

  8. #66
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    glad you like it... it should only feel better as it breaks in. The Yellowstuff pads should be even better in braking than the stock oem pads.
    The wierdest part is how the first bit of pedal travel does almost nothing, but once you get it past that, it stops noticeable well.
    Also, once you get used to it, you can't even tell the pedal difference anymore.

    Compared to stock, I'd easily say night and day difference. (still loving the brakes every time I drive the Ody).
    My plan is to go to EBC yellow's once the stocks wear down, so please update us later how you like them.
    Hawk LTS are also nice for SUV pads.

  9. #67
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    The only way you should break in brake pads is by bedding them. Bed the pads.
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  10. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by OUZO Power View Post
    The only way you should break in brake pads is by bedding them. Bed the pads.
    That is EBC's bedding procedure; 200 miles of easy urban driving followed by a final bedding of at least 5 stops from 60 to 20. Their pads come with a "brake-in" coating that is supposed to de-glaze the rotors in the early portion.
    Jim


    245/55's on 18" wheels, H&R springs, airlift rear bladders, stainless brake lines, tow package, K&N, ATF cooler with remote filter, HID, LED, Pilot brake upgrade.

  11. #69
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    Yes, my pedal is exactly the same; first part does nothing and then it's all there. Not like your usual low pedal, spongy or anything. I wonder if it might have anything to do with the spreader springs and taking up any added distance to the rotor. This is the first I've driven a vehicle with those. It's a good idea, Raybestos is marketing them as an aftermarket add on and claiming better gas mileage and longer pad life, ect.

    I had been using EBC greenstuff, 7000 series front, 6000 rear, before the upgrade and they were a marked improvement over OEM but just not enough to make up for the under designed hardware. I'm optimistic the the yellowstuffs will be even better.
    Jim


    245/55's on 18" wheels, H&R springs, airlift rear bladders, stainless brake lines, tow package, K&N, ATF cooler with remote filter, HID, LED, Pilot brake upgrade.

  12. #70
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    You have a good point... The spreader springs might be adding a tiny bit to the initial pedal travel, but yes, it also makes good sense to have them there to keep the pads completly off the rotors when not needed.
    Also, the caliper pistons are a bit larger than the stock ones, so It makes sense that a little more fluid needs to move to get to the initial "bite" point. But in all honesty, once you get used to it, you wont even notice the difference in pedal feel.

    Its amazing how small the stock rotors, calipers and pads are. especially when you can load 8 loved ones in there.

  13. #71
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    Rotors?

    Hi Joe, thanks for doing all the legwork. I'm going to order the Pilot parts but was wondering why you switched back from the Brake Performance rotors to the OEM? I'm considering their slotted/dimpled rotors, especially because of the lifetime warranty.

    Thanks!

  14. #72
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    Aditya... I'm sorry if I created any confusion, but I didn't switch to oem rotors. I'm stull using Brake performance slotted/drilled rotors... and they work just fine.

    btw... I would only avoid cross drilled rotors if you actually track the car, or put it in track driving conditions... repeated 100+mph braking hard over and over again.
    On the Ody, for street driving or towing, it should be no problem to run cross drilled if you like.

  15. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by joe422 View Post
    Aditya... I'm sorry if I created any confusion, but I didn't switch to oem rotors. I'm stull using Brake performance slotted/drilled rotors... and they work just fine.

    btw... I would only avoid cross drilled rotors if you actually track the car, or put it in track driving conditions... repeated 100+mph braking hard over and over again.
    What, Why? Why would you avoid drilled or slotted rotors for track purposes? If anything they would reduce heat, and help with avoiding the brake fluid from boiling up.

    In any case a black rotor will outperforme a slotted/drilled rotor. Street or track.

    But once you hit the track blanks will fade and give out much faster then slotted/drilled rotors.
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  16. #74
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    Thanks Joe, I'll probably go with the BP rotors then. I'm really looking forward to this upgrade because I'm driving with hand controls (and a spinal cord injury) and so braking with just my left arm is even weaker than usual. I just got my '08 Ody with ~20k on it and dePAX'd it with 18" '09 TL wheels so I should clear just fine. After seeing your mention of the Honda Odyssey race team going with Pilot components I saw this article which quoted one of the team members talking about their poorman's BBK. I'm going to need to get it all installed at a local shop because I can't do it myself, so do you know what the going rate would be to swap calipers, rotors, pads, and Techna-fit lines? I was even thinking of swapping the rusty rear rotors with a set of Brake Performance plain or slotted rotors but wondered if that would just be a waste of money.

  17. #75
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    I love drilled, and or slotted rotors. Help any possible outgassing from pads, sheds water from rotor/pad surfaces, and can help cool the rotor better than blanks. You loose a tiny bit of friction surface on the rotors, but in return, you get potentially more cooling (when the rotors are spinning).

    I use slotted on ALL my cars that see the track... I would only avoid crossdrilled for track use. After my last set of Brembo 2 piece rotors got stress/heat cracked on every single cross-drilled hole, I stay away from them.
    Slotted is fine. My point was for street, and for the Ody, slotted, dimpled and or cross drilled would be perfectly fine.

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